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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-27-2013 01:10 PM
barrydd Found a local shop that can do the work. Will be talking with them on Monday about details on parts, warranty, and break in.
06-22-2013 11:54 PM
Tweak
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rtone1583 View Post
3) The only thing I can think of on the carrier replacement is if you can't get the gear set you want for your axles. I believe your stock setup is Dana 30 front and Dana 35 rear. Some things to think about on this: Look at upgrading your axle shafts (going to deeper gears is going to put more stress on your axle shafts). Look into finding some Rubicon take off axles (you may find that the 4.10 gears will work for you and at the very least you may have more options for gear sets).
he drives a JK, its D30 front, D44 rear.

are you suggesting he drops $2000-$4000 finding a D44 axle as well as regearing his rear end when all he needs is to change gear ratios, $1000 tops? I mean no offense to the OP, but he didnt install his lift. chances are he isnt the type to be pulling out his entire front drivetrain.
06-22-2013 05:21 PM
kbwwolf
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rtone1583 View Post
1) I would go with the 4.88's since they would give you just a little more torque to the ground over the 4.56's.

2) Not sure which brand is best (I did a full F/R axle swap to Dynatrac when I upgraded mine). I'm sure gear sets are just like everything else in that you get what you pay for.

3) The only thing I can think of on the carrier replacement is if you can't get the gear set you want for your axles. I believe your stock setup is Dana 30 front and Dana 35 rear. Some things to think about on this: Look at upgrading your axle shafts (going to deeper gears is going to put more stress on your axle shafts). Look into finding some Rubicon take off axles (you may find that the 4.10 gears will work for you and at the very least you may have more options for gear sets).

4) Since you already have the axles torn apart for a regear you may as well throw some lockers in, will save you the hassle and labor cost if you decide to do later. Even if you're not rock crawling lockers are a good idea. Unfortunately you won't know how good of an idea they are until you need them and don't have them. The main benefit of lockers is that they allow you the option to operate your Jeep with all four wheels actually providing traction.

5) As noted above, the axles shafts will take more abuse with deeper gears paired with larger tires. Another thing to look at is your drive shafts. Pretty much everything I have heard/read is that anything over 3.5" of lift requires drive shaft modification. Also, not sure if anything has been done about it, but the first few years of JK's has some problems with the front axle tubes and/or knuckle C's bending under the extra strain of larger tires. Most of this came in with 35" and larger tires, you are currently setting on 34" tires so you are right on the edge but this may not even be a problem if you are not wheeling hard.

I would go for a Rough Country stabilizer if for no other reason than to keep the suspension components common. Otherwise the stabilizer brand is wide open to opinion.

Here are some sites and information for you to play around with:

Gear ration calculator Gear Ratio Calculator allows you to do a side by side comparison of two different setups.

Numbers for the above site:

Auto (5 speed, 2012-????) - W5A580
Gear ratios for the W5A580 (5 auto) are: (1) 3.59, (2) 2.19, (3) 1.41, (4) 1.00, (5) 0.83, and (R) 3.16.

Manual NSG370 (close ratio)

Gear ratios for the NSG370 (6 manual) are: (1) 4.46, (2) 2.61, (3) 1.72, (4) 1.25, (5) 1.00, (6) 0.84 and (R) 4.06.

Transfer case - X/Sport/Sahara: NV241, 2.72:1 low range or Rubicon: NVG241OR, 4:1 low range

This site just converts tire sizes DML Tire and Wheel Calculator

Pretty much covers it...great answer.

As far as gearsets go, almost all of them – USA Standard, Yukon, Superior, Alloy USA – are made by CHA Industries. Pretty much all the same.

Best bet is to let your preferred shop buy em. That keeps both the shop and mfr warranty intact, should there be a problem later on. Let the shop you choose order the gears and install em. Then, follow their break-in recommendations (and if they have none, go to another shop, pronto).
06-22-2013 05:09 PM
barrydd Here is what I plan to order:

-Alloy USA 4.88 Ring and Pinion Kit Front
-Alloy USA Front Ring & Pinion Master Installation & Overhaul Kit
-Detroit Trutrac by Eaton Performance Limited Slip Differential / Dana 30 Front
-Alloy USA Rear Ring & Pinion Master Installation & Overhaul Kit
-Alloy USA 4.88 Ring and Pinion Kit Rear
06-22-2013 04:17 PM
barrydd I understand I will need a new front carrier. Is the new front carrier part of the master install kit or does this need to be ordered separately? If separately does anyone know what the part number is?

Thanks...
06-12-2013 09:44 AM
barrydd Rtone1583,
Thanks for your feedback. I have Dana 44 rear and Dana 30 in the front. As soon as I figure out exactly what I need I will be ordering the parts.

Thanks...
06-09-2013 10:51 PM
Rtone1583 1) I would go with the 4.88's since they would give you just a little more torque to the ground over the 4.56's.

2) Not sure which brand is best (I did a full F/R axle swap to Dynatrac when I upgraded mine). I'm sure gear sets are just like everything else in that you get what you pay for.

3) The only thing I can think of on the carrier replacement is if you can't get the gear set you want for your axles. I believe your stock setup is Dana 30 front and Dana 35 rear. Some things to think about on this: Look at upgrading your axle shafts (going to deeper gears is going to put more stress on your axle shafts). Look into finding some Rubicon take off axles (you may find that the 4.10 gears will work for you and at the very least you may have more options for gear sets).

4) Since you already have the axles torn apart for a regear you may as well throw some lockers in, will save you the hassle and labor cost if you decide to do later. Even if you're not rock crawling lockers are a good idea. Unfortunately you won't know how good of an idea they are until you need them and don't have them. The main benefit of lockers is that they allow you the option to operate your Jeep with all four wheels actually providing traction.

5) As noted above, the axles shafts will take more abuse with deeper gears paired with larger tires. Another thing to look at is your drive shafts. Pretty much everything I have heard/read is that anything over 3.5" of lift requires drive shaft modification. Also, not sure if anything has been done about it, but the first few years of JK's has some problems with the front axle tubes and/or knuckle C's bending under the extra strain of larger tires. Most of this came in with 35" and larger tires, you are currently setting on 34" tires so you are right on the edge but this may not even be a problem if you are not wheeling hard.

I would go for a Rough Country stabilizer if for no other reason than to keep the suspension components common. Otherwise the stabilizer brand is wide open to opinion.

Here are some sites and information for you to play around with:

Gear ration calculator Gear Ratio Calculator allows you to do a side by side comparison of two different setups.

Numbers for the above site:

Auto (5 speed, 2012-????) - W5A580
Gear ratios for the W5A580 (5 auto) are: (1) 3.59, (2) 2.19, (3) 1.41, (4) 1.00, (5) 0.83, and (R) 3.16.

Manual NSG370 (close ratio)

Gear ratios for the NSG370 (6 manual) are: (1) 4.46, (2) 2.61, (3) 1.72, (4) 1.25, (5) 1.00, (6) 0.84 and (R) 4.06.

Transfer case - X/Sport/Sahara: NV241, 2.72:1 low range or Rubicon: NVG241OR, 4:1 low range

This site just converts tire sizes DML Tire and Wheel Calculator
06-09-2013 09:47 AM
barrydd
Time To Make Some Changes

I have a 2013 JKU with a 4" rough country lift and it is riding on 295/70R18 (both dealer installed). I know from highway driving and the fact I will go with a taller tire in the future I need to re-gear, stock 3.21's currently. My off road driving will include some mud and a lot of steep inclines. Vehicle will see highway use but no trips longer than 400 miles. Jeep currently struggles on steep inclines especially when the vehicle is loaded with camping gear and trying to get moving from a dead stop on an incline. So I have a few questions in regards to re-gearing. I want to do this right so spending a few extra $'s to do so is I feel the right thing to do.

1) What gearing should I go with? I am thinking 4.56 or 4.88.
2) Whats the preferred brand to use for the ring and pinion? Are some better than others?
3) What is the carrier I hear I need to replace?
4) Lockers? What are the benefits and do I need them if I am not rock crawling?
5) Will the taller gearing cause other parts to become a weak link or more prone to failure?

Another item I have questions about is the steering stabilizer. Dealer installed a Rough Country one and apparently did not do it right. Noticed when cleaning the vehicle the steering stabilizer has come in contact with the adjuster you use to center the steering wheel. It has a dent in it so I am going to replace it. Not even going to bother with trying to get the dealer to replace it. Should I stick with the Rough Country brand or purchase and install a different brand?

Sorry for all the questions but I want to make the right changes the first time and not have to do things twice because I cut corners the first time.

Thanks in advance...

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