|06-30-2013 06:36 PM|
So I have now fitted the pioneers in the soundbar, standard headunit and fronts still to do. I also poly filed.
First impression is VERY nice highs and mids but the lows about the same. Perhaps they will get better when they are run in a bit.
I will fit the same pioneers in the front this week and report.
I have to say that the factory alpines I removed are the best factory speakers I've seen to date.
|06-26-2013 03:09 PM|
|06-26-2013 11:00 AM|
|usmcdevildog||There are no adjustments avaliable at all on the alpine power pack. I imagine there aren't any on the stock amp as well.|
|06-25-2013 10:43 PM|
|woansleftpeg||Have you raised the gain to the front channels on the amp?|
|06-25-2013 10:22 PM|
|usmcdevildog||Fading the rear speakers all the way out doesn't change the fact that I still can barely hear anything coming from the front woofers...|
|06-25-2013 10:06 PM|
Replacing the speakers will give you improved reproduction with lower volume.
Then replacing the HU will give you further improved reproduction (probably minor) with lots of extra functionality.
Then replacing the sub and amp will give you a big increase in volume and bass reproduction.
I would suggest replacing the tweeters at the same time as replacing the front speakers, and doing so with a set of components that have their own discrete crossovers.
|06-25-2013 10:00 PM|
I'm going a similar route.
I want to do the stereo upgrade in stages, so I've ordered two sets of 6.5 Pioneer 3 ways which I will put in with the stock amp/HU/sub.
I then want to fit a Kenwood dnx890HD with backup camera but still utilizing the standard amp/sub.
Then later replace the sub and fit a good quality 5 channel amp.
I'm not sure what I want to do with the tweeters as yet, I'll wait and see I guess.
|06-25-2013 09:56 PM|
|woansleftpeg||Stock speakers are 2 ohm impedance, Polks are 4 ohm impedance. If you're running them all off the amp, then you're giving the rears twice the power of the fronts. A quick google suggests that the KTP-445 is 2 ohm stable; I'd recommend either compensating with the head unit fade and amp gain controls, or replacing the rears to get a matched set.|
|06-25-2013 05:51 PM|
Installed Alpine head unit, Alpine power pack, PAC Module, Front Polk Component speakers.
The verdict: PAC module worked flawlessly with my 2013. The head unit is 100% better than the stock unit.
However, I'm not too happy with the way everything turned out. The stock rear speakers and sub are much, much louder than the front speakers. The tweeters sure are loud enough, but I can't hardly tell the woofers are putting out sound.
If I turn up the volume halfway, then I can hear the front woofers, but then the rear speakers are so loud that they are distorted.
I wanted to used the Alpine power pack to run the front speakers only, but it isn't able to be bridged. (45W x 4)
I'm thinking I might have to get rid of that thing, maybe that will allow me to keep the volume at a high enough level so I can hear the front speakers and not have the rear ones blow out....
|06-15-2013 10:47 PM|
PB Output is Parking Brake, only needed if you plan to use DVD playback capability on your head unit. If your HU doesn't support DVD playback it won't have a corresponding wire.
VSS is as you correctly surmise Variable Speed Sensor, only necessary if your HU supports the function (and you want to use it). If it doesn't support it, it won't have the wire.
Illum Output is the wire that allows your HU to sense that the headlights are on, therefore assuming that it's dark out and dimming HU display. All HUs will have this wire, check your wiring diagram.
Reverse Output is, again as you correctly surmise, for a back up camera. Not needed if you don't have a camera, and if your HU doesn't support one there won't be anything to connect it to.
For the SWC lead, some HUs use the 3.5mm jack and others use the blue/white striped lead. You only need one or the other, not both. Again, check your HU wiring diagram.
|06-15-2013 09:49 PM|
Those of you that have used the PAC RP4-CH11...
I'm trying to figure out what to connect some of these wires to, or what they are for.
P.B. Output (-)
VSS Output (I'm guessing that's speed sensor)
Illum. Output (+)
Reverse Output (+) (assume only needed for rear camera)
I've got a remote control lead on my head unit in addition to the 3.5mm jack. I'm assuming that needs to connect somewhere in order to use the steering wheel?
|06-14-2013 12:18 AM|
|woansleftpeg||It does in my 2013. There have been reports that on some of the more recent '13s (mine was built 12/12) there are compatibility issues with the RP4-CH11 and the latest CANBUS firmware. I'd venture to suggest that if your Jeep is the same build date as mine or older you'll be good, more recent and I don't know - you might want to call PAC and ask them.|
|06-14-2013 12:12 AM|
Thanks, that's what I was hoping to hear.
Can anyone confirm that the PAC (RP4-CH11) harness will work with the 2013 premium sound?
|06-13-2013 11:42 PM|
Assuming they're the db6501s, you're not really getting them into their zone with 18W. I ran db6501s directly off my 20W head unit for a couple of weeks while I was waiting for my amp to come in, and while it was a marked improvement on the stock setup the amplifier makes all the difference. Speakers have an optimum zone in which they operate, and outside of that zone you're not really getting their best reproduction. Having said that, the KTP-445 is a nice compact unit but not the most powerful - if you're going to amplify you could go with something a little heavier duty, but then you have to think about where you mount it. The KTP power pack has the advantage of being able to fit inside the dashboard or glove box.
Running new wires is extremely simple, the Jeep dashboard is very easy to take apart and has loads of space. One of the easiest audio installs you'll find.
|06-13-2013 11:35 PM|
Would the power pack amp be neccessary for the components? The head unit is 18 watts rms per channel.
How difficult is it to run new front speaker/tweeter wires?
|06-13-2013 10:08 PM|
|06-13-2013 09:50 PM|
Upgrading 2013 Alpine sound system
I am planning to replace stock radio with an Alpine head unit.
I also have a set of polk components for the front.
My question is should I use the factory amp and just connect the speakers up without using the crossover?
Or, wire them directly from the head unit and use the crossover? If I went this route I'm considering getting the Alpine KTP-445 power pack.
At this point I'm planning on leaving the rear and sub alone.