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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-15-2013 07:49 PM
michiganadam
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flieler View Post
If its what OEMS use, its definitely not what I want. It was the factory stuff that turned all melty.
I'm stumped gentlemen
didnt turn melty for me.

Honestly wouldnt the bedliner seal it? Arent the seams sealed underneath too?
07-15-2013 01:06 PM
Flieler
Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganadam View Post
o rly? I knew it wasnt to protect from anything.. .

3m body seam sealant is the only thjng id bother with and i believe its what the oems use. 30 bucks for a tube, gotta use a caulk gun and its hard to make it look original.
If its what OEMS use, its definitely not what I want. It was the factory stuff that turned all melty.
I'm stumped gentlemen
07-14-2013 12:23 PM
michiganadam
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lusus_Naturae View Post
The previous models didn't have it at all, it's only there to add a layer of air to insulate a bit more from heat and noise. I wouldn't worry about a clutch or driveshaft shattering and going through a Jeep.

Driveshaft breaking at 50 seconds - Jeep Jk breaks driveshaft and axle in the snow - YouTube
o rly? I knew it wasnt to protect from anything.. .



Quote:
Originally Posted by Flieler View Post
Sorry, seam sealant. I'd like to reseal it and then re-bedline those areas.
3m body seam sealant is the only thjng id bother with and i believe its what the oems use. 30 bucks for a tube, gotta use a caulk gun and its hard to make it look original.
07-13-2013 09:43 AM
Flieler
Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganadam View Post
It looks like shit if you leave it but it's there for a reason so i left mine. I took it off in the area of the rear rear seat hold downs (2 door), because it looked like a 2 year old did it in that spot. The monstaliner was thick enough to hide the seam and look very nice.

What are you talking about? A seam sealant or a bedliner?
Sorry, seam sealant. I'd like to reseal it and then re-bedline those areas.
07-13-2013 02:04 AM
Lusus_Naturae
Quote:
Originally Posted by Getnoff View Post
Agree it looks like crap, but isn't it there to protect the vehicle occupants from a shattering clutch or drive shaft?
Don't understand how moisture would get under it, as it is sealed very well. I will prolly just line over it. If uv never seen the outcome of a granaded clutch...it ain't pretty! Of course, this has 400 less hp than my Goat did.
Troy
The previous models didn't have it at all, it's only there to add a layer of air to insulate a bit more from heat and noise. I wouldn't worry about a clutch or driveshaft shattering and going through a Jeep.

Driveshaft breaking at 50 seconds - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nS4_kkc1Cy0
07-12-2013 06:47 PM
michiganadam
Quote:
Originally Posted by Getnoff View Post
Good to know. Haven't heard of that before. I am debating taking it off or leaving it when I line mine. To answer ur Q, not sure.
Troy
It looks like shit if you leave it but it's there for a reason so i left mine. I took it off in the area of the rear rear seat hold downs (2 door), because it looked like a 2 year old did it in that spot. The monstaliner was thick enough to hide the seam and look very nice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flieler View Post
In a nutshell, does anyone know of a sealant that's petrol proof?
What are you talking about? A seam sealant or a bedliner?
07-12-2013 06:39 PM
Flieler In a nutshell, does anyone know of a sealant that's petrol proof?
07-12-2013 03:05 PM
Getnoff
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flieler View Post
Not to hijack, but...
A few weeks back I bedlined mine with Dominion Seal "Premium Rubberized Rocker guard". Initially, everything was great, cured well, looked good imo. Once the heat and humidity set in, what I sprayed overtop of that seam sealer some of you mentioned, turned back wet. Not sure if the spray reacted with the sealer, since it didn't happen (or I didn't notice) until last week.
So I've scraped out the seam sealer, and intend to respray the areas. Now, the question is...
Does anyone know of a sealant that will not react that way? I assume it was a chemical problem. A friend of mine with experience in a paint and body shop told me to reseal the seams with polyurethane. Not too sure what to do
Good to know. Haven't heard of that before. I am debating taking it off or leaving it when I line mine. To answer ur Q, not sure.
Troy
07-12-2013 09:43 AM
Flieler Not to hijack, but...
A few weeks back I bedlined mine with Dominion Seal "Premium Rubberized Rocker guard". Initially, everything was great, cured well, looked good imo. Once the heat and humidity set in, what I sprayed overtop of that seam sealer some of you mentioned, turned back wet. Not sure if the spray reacted with the sealer, since it didn't happen (or I didn't notice) until last week.
So I've scraped out the seam sealer, and intend to respray the areas. Now, the question is...
Does anyone know of a sealant that will not react that way? I assume it was a chemical problem. A friend of mine with experience in a paint and body shop told me to reseal the seams with polyurethane. Not too sure what to do
07-05-2013 03:53 PM
Getnoff
Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganadam View Post
Mine wasn't "sealed pretty well". Not at all. I can't explain how moisture gets under it, but it sure did. Mine was flaking off from normal use as well.

I don't have a clutch!

How would it even be in a position to protect you from a clutch anyway? or a diff? It's not really in the right place for either one as far as i can tell.

Why can't we have something under the tub, where you don't see it, to protect from such things? Kevlar shields? Race cars have protections from such occurences, but they're a hell of a lot less ugly than the toothpaste.


So did your clutch explode? What happened? Tell us more.
To answer ur main question. $! The way auto manuf do it like this is much cheaper. On mine, it is perfect placement to protect rear pax from rear pumpkin grading. The ones in footwell would protect front pax from a front diff or poss clutch. Just sayin. Not an arguement at all here. Guess I should check mine and c if it looks loose.

Used to drag my 06 GTO a lot (~500hp). Had a friend with an 05 Stang with a bunch of goodies, including a nice Whipple. Granaded his clutch on a hard run and was lucky not to lose his right foot. I have always been concerned with not running a scatter shield (on the inside of the tunnel) on my drag cars. Haven't really heard of Jeeps having similar problems, but I just assumed that's what this goo was for!
Either way, it really doesn't bother me aesthetically.
Troy
07-05-2013 02:03 PM
michiganadam Mine wasn't "sealed pretty well". Not at all. I can't explain how moisture gets under it, but it sure did. Mine was flaking off from normal use as well.

I don't have a clutch!

How would it even be in a position to protect you from a clutch anyway? or a diff? It's not really in the right place for either one as far as i can tell.

Why can't we have something under the tub, where you don't see it, to protect from such things? Kevlar shields? Race cars have protections from such occurences, but they're a hell of a lot less ugly than the toothpaste.


So did your clutch explode? What happened? Tell us more.
07-05-2013 10:08 AM
Getnoff Agree it looks like crap, but isn't it there to protect the vehicle occupants from a shattering clutch or drive shaft?
Don't understand how moisture would get under it, as it is sealed very well. I will prolly just line over it. If uv never seen the outcome of a granaded clutch...it ain't pretty! Of course, this has 400 less hp than my Goat did.
Troy
07-05-2013 09:31 AM
jeffbab The toothpaste gunk in my 2013 is starting to flake off under my driver side mat just from regular use. I don't think this would protect you from anything. Probably just a sound deadener or maybe to insulate from heat. I'm gonna remove it before it starts to cause rust.
07-05-2013 08:46 AM
michiganadam
Quote:
Originally Posted by Getnoff View Post
I always here about people removing the tooth paste area. I always cringe at this. I really thought this was a protection. In my GTO, and Mustang, it is put there from factory to protect from a clutch or diff shattering. Isn't that what it is for in a Jeep? I would guess it is to protect the occupants from a shattering diff?!
I plan on lining mine, but will leave the tooth paste area alone!
Troy
It looks like shit if you leave it and line it.

Also, it traps water and dirt. Can cause rust. And that water can make the bedliner peel.
07-04-2013 10:14 PM
Getnoff I always here about people removing the tooth paste area. I always cringe at this. I really thought this was a protection. In my GTO, and Mustang, it is put there from factory to protect from a clutch or diff shattering. Isn't that what it is for in a Jeep? I would guess it is to protect the occupants from a shattering diff?!
I plan on lining mine, but will leave the tooth paste area alone!
Troy
07-04-2013 03:39 PM
michiganadam
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster76 View Post
^michiganadam it looks great in the pictures. Good job.

I would call up Monstaliner and see what they think of painting the fenders and bumper. It might not stick well. Im sure they would be able to tell you how to prep it best.
Thanks. I most likely will call them up about it. I'm a little concerned about it myself, it would have to chemically bond with the plastic to be long lasting.
07-04-2013 03:25 PM
Rooster76 ^michiganadam it looks great in the pictures. Good job.

I would call up Monstaliner and see what they think of painting the fenders and bumper. It might not stick well. Im sure they would be able to tell you how to prep it best.
07-04-2013 02:58 PM
michiganadam Well mines far from perfect. Infact i missed a couple spots and rolled some areas too thin. I need a touch up kit. But i atleast basically got the areas that would be difficult to re-do just about perfect. I could put another coat on everything else without any dissassembly. But it does look good. I'm also planning on doing my flares and stock bumpers with it. So i'm just going to get another 1 gallon kit in a few months.

Mosquitos think its a person and tried to bite it while it was drying. WTF.

I'm dissapointed that i kept forgetting to "borrow" my respirator from work. I have a doctors sign off and everything to use a respirator, and have one i've never used at all. MEK's fumes made it very difficult to work with without one.

By the way, i've NEVER used a paint roller before, whatsoever. This was a hell of a project to learn how to do it on.

I'm glad i wasted the time with the toothpaste. It looks like it was never there.

I rolled it monday, finishing the last coat around 2:30am. Just put the seats in today, its pretty

By the way, I believe that Monstaliner is a very quality product worthy of putting its sticker on my window and I do not blame any of my difficulties on the product. However, it is a much more difficult project than it would seem like. Definitely pushing my skill level a little bit.

The most dissapointing thing is that i tried to remove the little spring loaded tie down thingy for the rear clutter catcher compartment thingy. I broke it.



06-15-2013 03:57 PM
michiganadam Very nice! I like your slush mats
06-15-2013 03:48 PM
SloanG I just lined mine with monstaliner over the last few days!

Not the best pics but here's a few!
06-15-2013 02:48 PM
michiganadam All goop removed and all chunks of it removed as well. Oh godddd.......why the hell was it even there.....

Washed the tub inside and out per monstaliner instructions.

Just have to scuff it, wipe down with mek, and line it now. Next week.
06-14-2013 07:04 PM
Beastmaster
Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganadam View Post
Got half of it off yesterday. Bought dry ice today 15 bucks and an hour got it cleared up. Still gotta scrap some remainders
Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganadam View Post
Mek is getting the rest of that crap off nicely
Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganadam View Post
Well looks like i ran out of time to finish this weekend. Supposed to rain tomorrow. Wont have time to do both coats in one day now. Oh well.

God luck dude.
06-14-2013 05:33 PM
michiganadam Well looks like i ran out of time to finish this weekend. Supposed to rain tomorrow. Wont have time to do both coats in one day now. Oh well.
06-14-2013 04:27 PM
michiganadam Mek is getting the rest of that crap off nicely
06-14-2013 03:55 PM
michiganadam
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beastmaster View Post
I had sand under mine too, no rust but it was only a matter of time.

How'd things go yesterday BTW???
Got half of it off yesterday. Bought dry ice today 15 bucks and an hour got it cleared up. Still gotta scrap some remainders
06-14-2013 09:55 AM
Beastmaster
Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganadam View Post
Thanks for the help guys. I heat gunned off about 3/4 of it. That toothpaste crap is crap. It had sand ttrapped under it. Why would they even put that there. Im a trucker so ill probably bedline it and zip jt up and put the seats in in two weeks.
I had sand under mine too, no rust but it was only a matter of time.

How'd things go yesterday BTW???
06-13-2013 08:50 PM
michiganadam
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyTeddy View Post
Could always put mats over the ugliness, but that defeats the whole reason your bed lining
Hehehe. It seems like this cap was specifically designed to rust the floorboards out though!
06-13-2013 08:31 PM
DirtyTeddy
Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganadam View Post
Thanks for the help guys. I heat gunned off about 3/4 of it. That toothpaste crap is crap. It had sand ttrapped under it. Why would they even put that there. Im a trucker so ill probably bedline it and zip jt up and put the seats in in two weeks.
Could always put mats over the ugliness, but that defeats the whole reason your bed lining
06-13-2013 08:17 PM
michiganadam Thanks for the help guys. I heat gunned off about 3/4 of it. That toothpaste crap is crap. It had sand ttrapped under it. Why would they even put that there. Im a trucker so ill probably bedline it and zip jt up and put the seats in in two weeks.
06-13-2013 07:20 PM
Rooster76 A FEW PREP TIPS
It's going to stick way better if you sand the clear coat off the paint if you haven't already. It takes awhile but will make a difference in it holding up. Before spraying with gloves, to keep hand oils off the paint, I would wipe everything down quickly with acetone,mineral sprits,paint thinner, mek, or equivalent.

GOOP REMOVAL
There is a guy who has a YouTube video Takeing out the goop with dry ice and a hammer. I couldn't find it on my phone, but is on my raptor write-up if you scan through.
http://www.jk-forum.com/jk-show-tell...hreads-238739/
A heat gun and a putty knife worked for me, but took about 3hrs. Gloves are highly recommended so you don't burn yourself.

FACTORY CAULK
I read that the caulk 1" goop stuff you should keep in, or reseal with Silicone to keep every thing water tight. It's pretty cheap, and can be had at any hardware paint isle.

RUST
If you cannot get all the rust down to shiny silver metal make sure to put some rust oleum rust reformer on there. That still is just slowing it down. I would think with a drill and a crimped wire wheel brush attachment it won't be a problem removing it all. I also got the last of the goop out that way, with a drill. Then hit that bare metal with a layer of rattle can self etching primer. I would even lightly sand that primer for a stronger bedliner bond.

DRY TIME
I would check out when they say its ready for light duty use after you roll it. I would guess you should wait a day, at least, to put the seats back in, vs just when it is dry to the touch. I waited a day and got a super small spot scratched putting in a seat. Raptor instructions say its good for heavy duty stuff after a week, light duty after 2-3 days.

I'm sure you're going to love it. Good luck.
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