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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-15-2013 09:38 AM
taterhed just catching up on this thread...the LJ came out nice there andrewf.

looks like: with the hardtop on and no-winch, you rake down a little in the back (a winch would fix that!). Is that right? any spacers?

BTW: this pic proves why I don't want to go any higher than 3" on 33's. Good lookin LJ>
02-11-2013 01:59 PM
Andrewf New set of BFG All Terrian 285/75/16
02-05-2013 06:42 PM
Andrewf Got my lift installed yesterday thanks to Evan from Bay Shore http://www.liorclub.org/sponsors/evan/

3" AEV Springs
Bilstein 5100 shocks
Rokmen LCA's
JKS MML + BL

Getting Duratrac or BFG AT 285/75/16 installed on Saturday
02-05-2013 06:37 PM
Andrewf
Quote:
Originally Posted by taterhed
Nice LJ there Dutch
2x
01-22-2013 08:36 AM
taterhed Nice LJ there Dutch
12-31-2012 08:50 PM
DutchmansLJ I do a 4in lift and a tt, make sure u do adj control arms and a SYE and CV, youll need it

I did 4.5RE short arm with a AEV tummy tuck best idea, just upgraded to 35s, power is still there with the stock gears but im going to upgrade since driving up hills still kills my gas, i recomend checking 4x4groupbuy.com they have killer deals i got my SYE and CV from tom woods free with the RE kit i bout. saved me 600 on just those parts.

thats 21in of break over clearance without a body lift.

also first photo shows a 1in spacer just added to front to level it out
12-30-2012 09:55 PM
taterhed
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
For the longer wheelbase LJ Unlimited & 3" suspension lift, you absolutely do not yet need a SYE & CV driveshaft. That is because the LJ has a much longer rear driveshaft when compared to the SWB TJ that starts needing a SYE/CV driveshaft at 3" & requires one at 4". The Unlimited's longer driveshaft angle doesn't steepen as quickly in reponse to a suspension lift as the TJ's shorter rear driveshaft does so it doesn't need a SYE/CV as soon as the SWB TJ does.

If you start doing things like a tummy tuck and/or a significantly taller suspension lift, then it's time to spend the $$$ for a SYE & CV driveshaft. But it's not needed now, save that $$$ or use it for other mods.
Well, I got off my butt and researched the forum. Wow. Some great info out there.

Basically, from what I've read from the other LJ owner/experts on here, the LJ would handle a 3" lift with 1 BL/MM and a std TT. Net of about 5". (Every Jeep is different, yes, I got that).

But, that would just make a very capable mall-crawler. Axle droop and flex would wear hard on the drive train and potentially drop the drive shaft and ruin the TC. I think I'll look at just doing the lift (and BJ's and steering) and then do the SYE/DC and TT at a second sitting. Besides, after all the reading, I'm thinking that I may want to outboard the rear shocks and move the upper spring perches once I'm ready to do the SYE/DC and crank the pinion up to point at the TC. That really is quite a long list of work--for me.

Less sticker shock that way too.

Thanks for the great advice--I should be able to run the 3" with no really issues and just leave the TC alone for a bit. the nice thing about the Savvy kit: you can easily adjust the arms without any major surgery.

cheers.
12-30-2012 12:10 PM
Jerry Bransford For the longer wheelbase LJ Unlimited & 3" suspension lift, you absolutely do not yet need a SYE & CV driveshaft. That is because the LJ has a much longer rear driveshaft when compared to the SWB TJ that starts needing a SYE/CV driveshaft at 3" & requires one at 4". The Unlimited's longer driveshaft angle doesn't steepen as quickly in reponse to a suspension lift as the TJ's shorter rear driveshaft does so it doesn't need a SYE/CV as soon as the SWB TJ does.

If you start doing things like a tummy tuck and/or a significantly taller suspension lift, then it's time to spend the $$$ for a SYE & CV driveshaft. But it's not needed now, save that $$$ or use it for other mods.
12-30-2012 06:02 AM
taterhed
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97flexy View Post
If your questioning the SYE I'd get it, for the extra $150-170 for the normal length SYE its better to do it while your building then rip it all apart and redo it later because you find out you have drive line vibes cause you were try'n to save a few bucks
Ok, Ok. I get the message.

I didin't think you could manage an SYE for that little money. Let me research the cost. I'm not arguing about $200. My labor alone to 'do it right the first time' is way more than 200.

Any suggestions as to the best/least expensive SYE for LJ? What do I need with an SYE besides the SYE kit?
again, thanks.
12-29-2012 08:57 AM
97flexy If your questioning the SYE I'd get it, for the extra $150-170 for the normal length SYE its better to do it while your building then rip it all apart and redo it later because you find out you have drive line vibes cause you were try'n to save a few bucks
12-28-2012 01:03 AM
Bimota Bruce
Quote:
Originally Posted by taterhed View Post
Is the SYE absolutely necessary for UCF STD with:
3" lift
adj fr and rear arms
1.5 BL/1 MM

on an LJ.

i know yes on TJ.

I thought you could get by with UCF TT and BL/MM less than 3.5 " lift.
My LJ has the same setup that you propose above, except I have 4" lift.

My guess is that on level ground you wouldn't need an SYE....you'd likely be right on the edge of it working. However, with articulating the axle off road.....I think you could find yourself in a binding (read "breaking") situation.

Personally, I wouldn't try it without the SYE....but you could try it and see if it vibes.

You might also call UCF....they know their product and likely have seen your setup before. Take their advice would be my advice...and then take your chances if you decide against the SYE.
12-28-2012 12:57 AM
Bimota Bruce
Quote:
Originally Posted by taterhed View Post
So,

With no SYE and adjustable arms, you had front caster problems with the standard or no-lift UCF TT?? I thought the arms would adjust the pinion and keep everything close to stock. Hmmm. Is it something to do with the MM/BL and the TT? Does it lift the front output?

Excellent suggestion if so. Sorry for my nube-ness, but I hadn't even considered that. Can you (or anybody) explain why? I'll be delighted to put the adj. front caster BJ's in. Do I need upper and lower?

thanks for any input.

Sorry for the Hijack. Guess it's all good if we're doin the same thing.
SYE has nothing to do with the front end of course.

For the record, it was the standard UCF TT.

Sure, the adj arms allow me to adjust the pinion up, but each degree up is a degree of castor gone. !!!

In my case, and the usual "all Jeeps are different" applies, I couldn't achieve both a good castor angle AND good pinion angle (notice I didn't say "correct pinion angle"....'cause I only got that close enough). The 2 degree upper BJ's did the trick. Lower BJ's are stock Moog.

I don't understand your question "Does it lift the front output?".....if you mean the TT...yes it does, as it lifts the entire transfer case, front and rear.
12-27-2012 09:50 PM
taterhed
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97flexy View Post
you need a SYE for any TT and adjustable rear upper arms are needed too. a MML is a good idea to to at the same time. Brown Dog has nice MML for cheap with a great warrenty and its built in the USA.
BUY USA built when you can
Is the SYE absolutely necessary for UCF STD with:
3" lift
adj fr and rear arms
1.5 BL/1 MM

on an LJ.

i know yes on TJ.

I thought you could get by with UCF TT and BL/MM less than 3.5 " lift.
12-27-2012 07:57 AM
97flexy you need a SYE for any TT and adjustable rear upper arms are needed too. a MML is a good idea to to at the same time. Brown Dog has nice MML for cheap with a great warrenty and its built in the USA.
BUY USA built when you can
12-27-2012 06:11 AM
taterhed
UCF and caster:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimota Bruce View Post
Taterhed> When I did my UCF TT (with an existing 4" lift), I found that it was difficult to maintain decent castor while also trying to maintain the pinion angle close to optimum.

I ended up installing 2* upper ball joints to help with that issue.

Just FYI, if you're going to do the BJ's anyway....it might be worth it to spend some extra $$ and get the offset ball joints.

As with all things Jeep....YMMV.
So,

With no SYE and adjustable arms, you had front caster problems with the standard or no-lift UCF TT?? I thought the arms would adjust the pinion and keep everything close to stock. Hmmm. Is it something to do with the MM/BL and the TT? Does it lift the front output?

Excellent suggestion if so. Sorry for my nube-ness, but I hadn't even considered that. Can you (or anybody) explain why? I'll be delighted to put the adj. front caster BJ's in. Do I need upper and lower?

thanks for any input.

Sorry for the Hijack. Guess it's all good if we're doin the same thing.
12-27-2012 12:08 AM
Bimota Bruce Taterhed> When I did my UCF TT (with an existing 4" lift), I found that it was difficult to maintain decent castor while also trying to maintain the pinion angle close to optimum.

I ended up installing 2* upper ball joints to help with that issue.

Just FYI, if you're going to do the BJ's anyway....it might be worth it to spend some extra $$ and get the offset ball joints.

As with all things Jeep....YMMV.
12-26-2012 09:36 AM
97flexy If you wanted to run 35s later its just a cut away, with that combo all you would need is flat fenders, and trimmed rear fenders.
I run 35s on my DD I also have front hi-line fenders and a TT.
12-26-2012 07:22 AM
taterhed
me next!

Good for you.

Keep us posted; pics too.

I'm right behind you. Mine is a 2005 LJ. Been slowly collecting my parts and pieces.

I'm going to put in new ball joints, HD tie rod/drag wheel hubs calipers and pads on. I don't ever want to mess with the front end and bump steer again (if possible, knock on wood).

I'm leaning real heavy towards the Savvy 3" (full kit) with RS9000.
Still haven't decided whether the anti-rock will work (I'm on-road about 50/50). Not sure about shocks--ranchos are recommended...but I don't know. I might have to weld on shock brackets and outboard the rears anyway.

I'm also prob gonna do the 1.5/1 BL/MM from Savvy (brown dog?).

I'll have to call them soon. Finally retiring from US MIL and have some time to work on my baby.

I'm gonna stick with 33's with the option for 35's later. Don't wanna hit the gearing as well (I have the 6 speed).

I'm gonna take a look at the undercover--I'd like to get rid of the shovel. Not sure though: anybody have any feed back on the tuck with BL/MM and adj arms (no SYE??) Not sure if I'll get vibes on that with 3".

Again, congrats and post lots of pics!
12-06-2012 07:39 PM
Andrewf It's been a long time since I was on here. I lost my job back in Feb and had to put everything on hold. I've been interviewing with this company for about 6 months and last week i got a call saying I got the job. So HAPPY!!!

So i decided to go with 33's. I just placed my order for:

• AEV 3" Springs
• Rancho 9000xl shocks
• Rancho RS5000 Steering Stabilizer
• Johnny Joint Rear Track Bar with Housing Bracket Kit
• JKS Adjustable Sway Bar End Link Kit
• JKS BL + MML

• Bump Stops (not sure what size to get)
• Rear Bumper & Tire Carrier ( any suggestions? )

Am I missing anything?

I'm going to wait on the tires because my current ones only have about 11K on them. Which gives me more time to save for other things.

Can't wait to get everything bolted on.
07-11-2012 12:54 AM
unctarheels883 Do what you think is best..Your gut feeling. My gut is 35's with 4''s
02-14-2012 11:30 AM
Andrewf This really sucks. I just lost my job so i have to put things on hold.

Thanks for all the great advice everyone.
02-12-2012 02:01 PM
KrzyMoke [QUOTE=Andrewf;2017503]
Quote:
Originally Posted by KrzyMoke View Post
Since Savvy sells the Currie stuff, call them and get their opinion. I have been emailing them and getting my parts list together. I think you need a rear driveshaft but I am not sure.

Me, I am going to tummy tuck first. This way I will get even more clearance when I upgrade to the Savvy lift.[/

Does the TT help the driveline angle?
The TT will actually increase it due to your transfer case moving up into the framerails. The only thing that "really" helps driveline angle are adj. control arms. Since you are buying the Currie lift, they come with the adj. control arms.
02-11-2012 09:26 AM
Andrewf [QUOTE=KrzyMoke;2016270]Since Savvy sells the Currie stuff, call them and get their opinion. I have been emailing them and getting my parts list together. I think you need a rear driveshaft but I am not sure.

Me, I am going to tummy tuck first. This way I will get even more clearance when I upgrade to the Savvy lift.[/

Does the TT help the driveline angle?
02-10-2012 09:35 PM
KrzyMoke
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrewf View Post
I think im going with 35"
Currie 4"
JKS 1.25" BL
JKS 1" MML
Rancho RS9000XL shocks.

Do I need anything else?
Since Savvy sells the Currie stuff, call them and get their opinion. I have been emailing them and getting my parts list together. I think you need a rear driveshaft but I am not sure.

Me, I am going to tummy tuck first. This way I will get even more clearance when I upgrade to the Savvy lift.
02-10-2012 09:06 PM
Andrewf I think im going with 35"
Currie 4"
JKS 1.25" BL
JKS 1" MML
Rancho RS9000XL shocks.

Do I need anything else?
02-08-2012 10:40 PM
tj00wrangler Here is my buddies LJ with RC 4"2.0 lift on 35's. Extended bump stops where installed in time for this trip.
Attachment 96019
02-08-2012 05:32 PM
Gary2 35's, LJs look stock with anything smaller
02-08-2012 03:06 PM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrewf View Post
Thanks! it's crazy, there's a lot of different ways to do a lift that makes it so confusing.
there is no suspension lift on that jeep, but it has 2.5" more clearance than your stock Jeep. the engine/trans/t-case were moved up and the frame was left at the same height as stock with suspension changes.
02-08-2012 01:16 PM
TheTJRod For the math, say that when your axle is pressed against the bumpstops you have the minimum distance you would want in between your stock 29" tire and your fender. If you put on 33" tires you increased the diameter by 4" and your tire radius is increased by 2". Meaning that your tire would get to the minimum distance with a gap of 2" between the bumpstop and coil bucket. To prevent your tire from hitting your fender you would have to increase the bumpstops by 2" there for stopping them at the same minimum distance as with stock tires.

Of course this is just an estimate using no other variables.
02-08-2012 01:06 PM
TheTJRod There are rear relocation brackets that will put your rear axle in the right spot for your lift. I run a JKS adjustable front track bar, my stock one made my axle stick out to one side a noticeable amount also it was worn down. Don't run any type of drop pitman arm or front track bar relocation bracket. This will cause bad bump steer if you don't do it right.

To make it easy just stick with 2" extended bumpstops. When you get everything installed you can adjust from there. You could even get extra long bumpstops then cut them down to the size you need.
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