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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-26-2013 10:43 AM
jherrington Yay!
08-26-2013 08:20 AM
WingingIt74 It was the water pump. The impeller broke free from the shaft and was just freewheeling. I also replaced the fan clutch as well. All good now.
08-21-2013 12:12 PM
WingingIt74 Can you just eliminate the clutch? Good/Bad? My 56 Chevy didn't have one
08-21-2013 12:06 PM
tbensor I had a hard time burping mine after the new radiator. Sounds like you are past that though. Have you thought about putting on an external guage to test. I know you did the laser but that won't measure the water temp.
08-21-2013 11:58 AM
WingingIt74 I may do that too, once my wife goes back to work.
08-21-2013 11:56 AM
jamesbdunn My Jeep TJ was overheating when I would pull a hill at 75. When it overheated the next time I jerked the Jeep to the side, opened the hood, and with the engine off tried to turn the fan by hand.

The fan turned pretty freely.

I went to O'Reily's and bought a replacement fan clutch.

30 minutes later I was back on the highway and couldn't get it to overheat.
08-06-2013 11:26 AM
WingingIt74 I haven't yet. I put it on the back burner till my wife is back to work from her surgery, since we are living just off my paycheck.

My guess is to replace the water pump and see what it does.... my buddy that I bought the TJ from said he replaced it 5 years ago... so I guess it could be bad again???
08-06-2013 11:21 AM
ChrisJeepTJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by WingingIt74 View Post
That was after the fact with the overheating issues... thinking I had bubbles in the system I couldn't get out after replacing the radiator, thermostat and thermostat housing.
How'd you make out with this? What was the final diagnosis/solution?
07-19-2013 03:42 PM
WingingIt74 That was after the fact with the overheating issues... thinking I had bubbles in the system I couldn't get out after replacing the radiator, thermostat and thermostat housing.
07-19-2013 03:36 PM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by jherrington View Post
I think it's rather clear its not the radiator.
I don't think that for a second. I believe he said that he attempted or did a heater core back wash and flush which may have moved some crap into some place where it isn't doing anyone any good.
07-19-2013 11:49 AM
jherrington
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisJeepTJ View Post
What BlackMagic says. DOn't worry about the heat/AC as it's not the source of the problem, just an aggravator/alleviator. Replace the water pump or at least remove it to ensure proper operation and if that doesn't solve it, I'd be on the phone with Mishimoto for a replacement.
I think it's rather clear its not the radiator.
07-19-2013 11:37 AM
ChrisJeepTJ What BlackMagic says. DOn't worry about the heat/AC as it's not the source of the problem, just an aggravator/alleviator. Replace the water pump or at least remove it to ensure proper operation and if that doesn't solve it, I'd be on the phone with Mishimoto for a replacement.
07-19-2013 09:56 AM
WingingIt74 I haven't even tried to get the AC working yet....
07-19-2013 09:49 AM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by WingingIt74 View Post
I've been leaning towards the water pump, as maybe it's pumping but not pumping enough??? I do have a problem of wanting to upgrade instead of just fix, what's a good water pump to get?

Yes the Mishimoto was new and did come with a new cap, but it did not seal well, from what Auto Tire told me. Fluke it may be, but that part of it is fixed now with the new cap, as it does not leak now. I'm passed that point now, just need to figure out what is going on so I can drive it
As per usual, you are welcome to do as you wish, but I don't mess with what the Jeep engineers figured out so I only use OEM water pumps, thermostats, coolant, and radiators.

I fix rigs quite often with overheat issues and not once have I not been able to solve them with OEM parts. In this case though, I wouldn't have an issue with the radiator you picked as they seem to be fine.

That said, I just finished a rig with very similar symptoms. Drives fine, put it under load going up a hill or use the AC and the temp would spike, turn the heater on and it would come back down to normal.

Checked and replaced thermostat due to being unable to circulate coolant after the flush.

Checked and reinstalled water pump, did not replace because it was fine.

New coolant didn't help, still had the issue. Finally, the light bulb turned on and I recalled that the radiator drained slower than others I had done.

Against my better wishes, I purchased and installed a new OEM radiator and the rig now works perfectly. There was no external clue that the radiator was the problem except the slow drain.

Point being just because you have what appears to be a good radiator, don't rule it out.

BTW- the temp spike is because the gauge operates like a "gauge" until it exceeds the normal operating temp zone and then it will spike to let you know there is a problem which is also why it pops back into the "good" zone so readily. Gauge is operating as designed.
07-18-2013 05:17 PM
WingingIt74 Interesting...
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/flow...ml#post2555330
07-18-2013 02:21 PM
Chuck59
Quote:
Originally Posted by WingingIt74 View Post
I was wondering if that FlowKooker was really worth the money... Kinda curious how it works, I guess it has plastic fins that flex?
I have been wondering the same thing.
07-18-2013 01:24 PM
WingingIt74 I was wondering if that FlowKooker was really worth the money... Kinda curious how it works, I guess it has plastic fins that flex?
07-18-2013 12:34 PM
ChrisJeepTJ Most water pumps seem to be basically the same at around $24-$30. If you want to go crazy, I see quadratec sells one for like $107: Flowkooler 1750 - FlowKooler Water Pump for 00-06 Jeep® Wrangler TJ with 4.0L I-6 Engine - Quadratec.

If I was in your shoes I'd just run down to the closest auto store and buy what they had in stock. If you want to wait, RockAuto has a few to choose from: RockAuto Parts Catalog (just search water pump).

Let me know how you make out.
07-17-2013 11:01 AM
WingingIt74 I've been leaning towards the water pump, as maybe it's pumping but not pumping enough??? I do have a problem of wanting to upgrade instead of just fix, what's a good water pump to get?

Yes the Mishimoto was new and did come with a new cap, but it did not seal well, from what Auto Tire told me. Fluke it may be, but that part of it is fixed now with the new cap, as it does not leak now. I'm passed that point now, just need to figure out what is going on so I can drive it
07-17-2013 10:41 AM
ChrisJeepTJ Let's not forget that earlier Wingit said he had a loss of power accompanying the gauge temp spikes, which to me says that it's not a case of replacing a gauge. Dash gauge readings wouldn't cause a loss of power, but a faulty sensor or an actual problem could. The higher temp readings at the water neck might mean a bad water pump that is working intermittently. The pump is only about $30 and worth the try, IMO. I'm not an expert though, so just a thought.

One last thought- didn't the mishimoto come with a new cap? If the radiator was new (really nice top end radiator too btw), I'm not sure why that would have been a source of the leaking coolant. If your levels are stable now though and no evidence of coolant/water in the oil then maybe that was just a fluke.
07-16-2013 09:12 PM
Kevin-jeep You've changed the temperature sensor and assume the sensor is OK.
Try to get some kind of Diagnostic/Scanner tool with ODB2 connector.
This tool are NOT expensive and, it can monitoring vital infos of the your jeep.
e.g. RPM, MPH, Oil presure, Coolant temp......

You can connect the ODB2 scanner to your jeep,
If the temperature reading from the scanner is different from the temp gauge,
maybe the temp gauge is the problem.

The ODB2 Diagnostic/Scanner tool is a very useful tool to monitor/check status of your vehicle. if the temperature reading from the scanner is abnormal, you still have find out the root cause of cooling system.
07-16-2013 02:47 PM
WingingIt74 Anyone have any thoughts on what to check or what could be causing my problems?
07-15-2013 05:19 PM
WingingIt74 My original radiator split kind of like that, which was why I went with the Mishimoto.
07-15-2013 02:11 PM
jherrington My dads 00 shot up from 200 to redline(240?) then to 260 maybe three seconds later. A few times while driving. Them finally one day the top of the radiator busted open.



Attachment 273123



I highly doubt it's the gauges if mine moved up just like yours do.
07-15-2013 02:04 PM
WingingIt74
Quote:
Originally Posted by jherrington View Post
But still, gauges aren't your problem.
Ok.... so what is my problem?
07-15-2013 02:01 PM
jherrington
Quote:
Originally Posted by WingingIt74 View Post
I don't think that's it, just for the fact it will cool down on the gauge also. I could see if it's pegged all the time.

Can I use an aftermarket gauge? Does the computer need the temp from the sending unit?
The gauges aren't your problem. And you don't buy bran new gauges. Duah. You pull one from a junk yard with similar miles.

But still, gauges aren't your problem.
07-15-2013 01:42 PM
WingingIt74 I don't think that's it, just for the fact it will cool down on the gauge also. I could see if it's pegged all the time.

Can I use an aftermarket gauge? Does the computer need the temp from the sending unit?
07-15-2013 01:37 PM
Verf Check wiring from sending unit to gauge?
07-15-2013 12:22 PM
WingingIt74 HOLY COW!!!! A new gauge cluster is $1225!

Now that I had that shock... what are my options?
07-15-2013 12:12 PM
cthusker
Quote:
Originally Posted by WingingIt74 View Post
Yes and no... It jumps from 212 to 240 then jump to 260, or just 212 to 260 but it's slow to come back when the engine is off. It acts like it's reading correctly, except for the quick jump. Turning the engine off, it will cool down... come to think of it, when it cools down it has nearly the same jump. I wonder if it isn't the gauge? Could it be a short in the gauge?
Was wondering the same! Anyway to get your hands on another gauge just to check? I think it's only a 2 pin type which shouldn't be hard to find. Even if the calibration isn't the same at least you could see if another "jumps" or reacts like the one in the cluster............
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