|06-22-2013 10:53 PM|
|06-22-2013 10:45 PM|
they might be worn, but not worn out
fix the other stuff and maybe try some heavier oil if it still concerns you
|06-22-2013 05:28 PM|
Just ha a random thought.
I've read about people on this forum having oil pressure go up to ~60, them after 5 miles, it drops to zero. Then they go and get a new engine.
Mine gets to MAYBE 45, then will drop to 20.. And recently, in the past 6months(after I did my RMS replacement), down to ~15 when hot. I'm talking, when driving at 2k rpm, the oil pressure will be >40 when driving for a while ~20 miles.
Does that sound like an oil pump problem? Or still worn main bearings?
|06-21-2013 05:07 PM|
Another vote to keep the white one.
It is a part of your Dad, and always will be as long as you have it.
I would regret selling it later on if it was my Dads Jeep.
|06-21-2013 04:41 PM|
Lol. Yes. The white one is part of the family.
And by things that needs work on it, I mean...
Front output shaft bearing in transfer case is shot
Pinion seal in the front axle is leaking.
I've got a mysterious break fluid leak somewhere
And I think I screwed up my PS pump when I replaced the box by letting too much air get into it. But il let that break before I replace it.
|06-21-2013 12:45 PM|
|Drk5ide||the white one it's part of the family.|
|06-20-2013 09:46 AM|
There will be more hassle than re-wiring on an LS swap.
You'll need a new radiator and hoses, probably custom. You will also need to figure out how to mate it with the transmission and whether or not the trans can hold up to the additional power and torque. Also I'm not familiar with a '98, but if the clutch linkage is manual, then you'll need to convert to a hydraulic linkage as the Chevy LS has no provision for a bellcrank mount.
Now you need to decide carburetor or fuel injection. If you retain the FI you will need to have the GM ECM reprogrammed or find someone with the EFI Live software that is very competent with it. Also you can do several different things as far as tank and pump, but the only true trouble free daily solution is a custom tank with in-tank pump rated for a minimum of 65 psi. Your fuel lines and connections will also need to be able to handle these pressures along with having a return line to the tank somewhere in the system. The fuel system is a very big deal and there are many ways to accomplish it as I said earlier.
You'll also have to adapt the GM accessories and drive to work with your a/c, p/s and electrical. The alternator wiring is no biggie. The a/c could present a challenge as well as the p/s. There are also custom accessory drives and components, but were talking large price tag. The accessory drive and components on my latest Pro-touring car was 3600.00 by itself, but there are cheaper options than the vintage air frontrunner for sure.
Lots more involved in the swap than the old SBC swaps. Also, I'm not sure about the area you live in, but here if a vehicle is less than 25 years old it still has to pass an emissions inspection complete with cats and meet the original specs for output, even if it's a conversion.
Like I stated earlier, it's cheaper to rebuild the old 4.0 or make a stroker out of it. 2-3 times cheaper and a lot less headache.
|06-19-2013 09:40 PM|
|06-19-2013 09:07 PM|
|Timberwolf||rebuild the white with a 4.6 stroker|
|06-19-2013 06:15 PM|
|jherrington||You guys aren't saying white jeep just because I want to do a 5.3L swap, and you want to see it right? Lol|
|06-19-2013 02:35 PM|
|06-19-2013 02:09 PM|
|06-19-2013 11:01 AM|
I'd say the white jeep. It's your dads, you know all of it's history, many of the repairs are already done and an engine rebuild isn't that expensive.
A conversion to the chevy LS engine will easily cost you 3-4 times the price of a rebuild on the current engine. If you want the power then by all means go for it. I do LS conversions in old muscle cars that I build for a hobby. The mileage and power are great but the price tag can get high depending on how you go about it.
|06-19-2013 10:57 AM|
|Titaness||Ps... Thinking that given your dad's body has sacrificed so much already , you with love , "building" maintaining something familiar to him is always a comfort. The security that something continues creates a feeling if normalcy when a persons body changes. On second thought, keep the white!|
|06-19-2013 10:15 AM|
The low oil pressure is probably just a tired old oil pump. Shouldn't be too expensive to fix.
|06-19-2013 10:00 AM|
|JK JoeD||I'd keep the white... Seems more reliable plus you know the complete history. And the newer one has less miles so should be an easy sell. PS if that jeep is where I'm from it would be called "clean" so i wouldnt let that little bit of rust worry ya hahaha|
|06-19-2013 10:00 AM|
I would keep the white TJ because it was your dads, it seems like it was maintained better than the Sahara, and the Sahara seems like it may have been run hard and not maintained as well. That's my 2˘ worth. Hope this helps,
|06-19-2013 09:58 AM|
I'm with this guy!
Also, you forgot to make this a poll
|06-19-2013 09:53 AM|
White. Repower it.
Junk the San Diego rust bucket
|06-19-2013 09:47 AM|
|Titaness||Since you are looking to be more economical, which one will cost less to maintain and "fix"'over the next few years.? Which one will will last longer? Which one will give you more joy and be more usable? I don't know enough about jeeps nor mechanical stuff to tell but that's how I'd go about it.|
|06-19-2013 01:27 AM|
|06-19-2013 01:10 AM|
Which jeep to keep?
In this corner we have a white 98 jeep tj with 346,000 miles.
In the other corner we have a 00 green tj Sahara with 120,00" miles.
My dad had a stroke at the beginning of April, he is currently bound to a wheelchair, with little to no strength in his left side. (Not the best thing for a person that drives a standard.)
We have to sell one to cut car insurance and pay bills. Il give you a short story about each one, and you decide which I should keep.
The 98 jeep
Was bought new by my dad. He never drove it hard and proof of that is that the original clutch lasted 330,000 miles! I've been slowly fixing everything in it, RMS, steering gear box, new soft top, radio. Those things. Now, the most important part is the engine. It's oil pressure starts at about 45 and after driving it goes to 20. If its hot outside, it will go to 15 or so. This is rather low although the FSM says the engine is fine until 13psi. Besides this, the jeep is in pretty good shape besides normal wear and tear.
Brand new steering components, clutch with 20k. Transmission doesn't grind. New A/C, heater core.
This jeep has never been on trails besides in our pasture.
The green Sahara,
Is a little bit of a mystery. We acquired this jeep about a year ago. It is originally from SD, and really shows it.
The rust scares me as the previous owner had to replace the bolts holding up the skid plate apparently because of the rust. The muffler is starting to rust though, yada yada. We never get a Car fax report on the jeep when we bought it, although we should have. The frame, or at least a fender is bent. Seen here.
Apparently it was in such a bad week, it bent the bumpstop.
As for the engine, it is the one with the improved intake, so it's more powerful. Oil pressure wise, it gets up to 55 when driving cold, then when it gets hot, it drops to about 30. Clearance in the green jeep is less according to the oil PSI.
We just put a new radiator in it because the older one busted open. I think it was because the previous owners never flushed the cooling system. You guessed it, the heater doesn't work because of this either.
I'm sure this jeep has been on many trails as it has mud grips that howl on the highway.
Has a shimi at highway speeds, broke ball joints because I can hear the steering pop sometimes. So that will need to be replaced.
If I keep the white one, I would like to drop a Chevy 5.3 V-8 in it. If I keep the green one, I will just start all over replacing worn parts.
I've looked at kbb and figured the prices are $5,000 and $7,000 for a private sale for each jeep, respectively.
Which jeep is is with keeping? Why? Thanks.