|02-24-2014 04:18 PM|
Looks good, I think i only used 3 bottles as well.
Mine is holding up well, the dogs run around in the back all the time and I don't see any claw scratches yet.
I've been happy with the product overall. I think you will be fine after it dries a few days. I think after 2 days I was able to put the driver seat back in and drive to work (really short trip). Then I waited about a week to start bolting the console and other seats and such back in. Didn't need them in right away anyways.
|02-23-2014 07:16 AM|
|TweakedJeep||Looks like how it is suppose too. You hit all the important areas hard and that's what matters. Nice work!|
|02-21-2014 07:42 AM|
|GoldenSahara00||I think you'll be fine. The longer time between coats just let's each layer to begin to cure so it drys faster overall and is like several thing layers. I don't think you went to fast.|
|02-21-2014 06:14 AM|
Thanks. Should I be worried about anything ? The Tub was probably not 68degrees at the time of spraying, and I didn't wait as long as recommended between coats.
I'm hoping the fact that this jeep will remain untouched for 6 more days (minimum) will make up for the above mentioned transgressions.
|02-20-2014 09:03 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||Came out great man. I also only used 3 bottles and saved the 4th for touch up and for getting the places I couldn't spray like behind the pedals.|
|02-20-2014 05:59 PM|
Where to begin.
I am trying to get a lot of initial thoughts out quick so this may be a lengthy read. Apologize in advance. Scroll to the bottom for the TLDR portion.
Underlined sentences will highlight where I deviated from everyone who has ever done a Raptor Liner's instructions.
Act I: Pre-spray
I show up to my neighbors shop. Take a quick wire wheel to two bare spots that I see a little rust in. One of them could have used some puddy or epoxy but too late for that now. I hit those spots with some Self Etching Primer and begin wiping down the tub. It has been sitting in this shop for over a month an has about an inch of dust all over it.
My neighbor sends in a tech to assist me as I asked him to. The tech brings over the line to the compressor and hooks up a blow gun to it, sprays the jeep out. I rather liked this idea to me wiping every square inch an umpteenth time.
We do not know the PSI. For what ever reason he could not find a read out on the compressor, and the little gun that came with the kit doesn't have a read out on it either. Lets just say, its blasting out some serious pressure.
I begin to wipe parts down with acetone but I'd be lying if I said I got every part of the jeep. I have wiped every part of that jeep at least 5x with Acetone through out the past weeks. We prep the first bottle of Raptor Liner and hook up the overpowered gun.
Act II: The First Bottle
I commence spraying on the tailgate. My initial three rows knock out some of the paper I had placed in the bolt holes. I definitely think this is too much PSI. I pull the gun back a bit, spraying from about 30" away. This seems to work nicely.
I looked to the tech for advice as I have never used a compressor to paint anything before. He says "just have at it". I do, and its rather simple. I start coating the entire jeep. I debated doing 1 bottle or maybe 2 bottles of Raptor in just the front as others have. However, the Tech and I thought "lets just spray everything 4x". At the time, I thought why not. I got a light dusting over everything in about 3 minutes.
Act III: The Second Bottle
We got just about the whole tub in the first bottle. Originally I had intended on waiting at least 40 minutes before the second coat. The tech had already prepped the next bottle for me so I went ahead and loaded her up. I waited about 10 minutes before the second coat I sprayed everything again, this time covering all the little gaps I missed. I got under the foot wells quite good. Behind the pedals was the toughest part.
Act IV: The Third Bottle
We waited a good 20 to 30 minutes before applying a third coat. I was happy for this as everything was just a bit tacky, but not that wet. The third bottle was spent primarily on the foot wells. I still could not get behind the pedals. The bottle was just to big and bulky to do it. The Tech took the third bottle from me and sprayed a bit all over. He looked like a pro, I guess he wanted me to feel like I did the jeep. Thats why he watched the first two bottles.
Act V: Wrapping Up
Yup No 4th Bottle . I really wanted to but I felt bad for one. I didn't want to keep the tech there as strictly an observer. Not to mention the entire tub looked good and covered after the second bottle. I have no clue where I would have sprayed the bulk of the 4th!
We took all the tape off (I hope I got it all). Pulled all the plugs. Pushed the Jeep back into the garage to dry.
- I will be letting this thing cure for at least 6 days. The temperature outside was around 60 degrees. The box suggest 2-3 days I'm going to double it for safe measure.
- Thinking of buying a compressor from harbor freight just to use that final bottle, set it up for 60 PSI and spray a top coat.
-Does anyone think that the reason I was able to cover the whole tub in one bottle was due to the high PSI of the compressor? I was hoping the reason everyone else got only half done with two bottles would be due to the low PSI.
-Didn't acetone everything
-Used what I am assuming is a really high PSI (although I've never worked with compressor)
-Only waited about 10 minutes between coats, if that. The wait between coat 2 and 3 however was around 25min.
-Didn't use all 4 bottles
Still came out looking great! The only thing I worry about is will it hold up.
Some things to note are that this jeep is not a daily driver. It is only used on weekends. It is not going mudding every weekend, mostly a mall crawler. I do have all weather rubber floor mats for the front foot wells. I had planned only to use them in winter but may use them to preserve this lining now.
Finally ... Pics. Sorry no before pics, Samsung was kind enough to delete all of those for me.
I hope all of my miscues don't come back to show a hack job and just peel up at every turn. I know plenty of people have said they've been in and out in less than three hours and thats what I did pretty much.
The Foot Wells look darker than the bulk of the tub because I hit them hard and often. I wanted them to be the heaviest coat.
What do ya think? Did I just waste $109 and a few months of jeepless winter?
|02-20-2014 11:30 AM|
|TweakedJeep||You should still be good to spray, will definitely take a little longer to set up between coats, could could always bump up the amount of catalyst to help it cure faster, just not to much, As for the wire I pulled the grommet and taped up the wire where I would be spraying, I actually spray the top lip of my tub also, took a couple sockets and paint sticks taped them to the body to hold the wire up off the side of the tub, worked great. Good luck can't wait to see some pictures of the finished results....|
|02-20-2014 06:53 AM|
A caveat to this spraying attempt today, the local temperature will be roughly 47 degrees. The Jeep has been in a garage for the last month. The garage is heated during the day and I believe closed off at night. The temperatures for the last few days have gotten into the upper 50s low 60s, whilest dropping to the mid 30s at night. The next few days will be similar, humidity rising each day.
I am going to estimate the tub temperature will be around 55 - 65 degrees at time of spraying. I believe this would only affect the time it takes for this product to adhere correct? Meaning the time between coats may be 30 minutes as opposed to the ten or twenty you took correct?
|02-20-2014 05:34 AM|
Spraying this jeep tub this afternoon, approx 1300 EST. Don't ask as to what has happened these last few months, long story.
I realize I've asked a ton of questions, I believe I only have one more. The wiring that runs along side the driver side of the tub. What did everyone do to avoid spraying this? Just wrap it in tape, or did you use a hanger and hold it up?
I believe I have wrapped it in tape, but just curious as to how you sprayed the area under it. I am not so sure I want to spray under it just to lay it back down on the tub.
Can't wait to spray this thing and be done with it finally. I am so pissed I was jeepless this AMAZING winter we've seen here in the Mid Atlantic. Thank god my other vehicle is a subaru, had a little fun.
|09-20-2013 05:32 PM|
try to tape off those seat belts so they can't retract when you unmount them. It will save you some hassle later.
If you forget, they will unwind by simply grabbing the belt above the reel box and let the box hang. swing it around a little bit like a pendulum and it will start to unwind for you so you can re install them.
I had mine retract on me and i didn't know this. So i decided to try to take the reel box apart to make it unwind. This was one of the worst ideas i have had in quite some time, lol. Had to order a new seatbelt.
|09-20-2013 06:49 AM|
|captbo||I think Mrs.Capt Bo came up with a great idea we will do grey that way it will work with red and white if we choose to change the paint color|
|09-19-2013 06:59 PM|
|Mean Daddy||I have torx that go all the way to 50. Hdepot has them in their tool section. I took the seat belts off the brackets from the bottom and then just zip tied them up out of the way. All the bolts, i just taped off.|
|09-19-2013 06:56 PM|
|Mean Daddy||I love the white and black. I don't think that i would want a white floor however. the UPOL raptor does have tinting options! Mine is holding up well. there are some places that I have hit hard with the corner of a toolbox and it marked it up. My buddy is doing his soon and I will get closer with the spray gun to get a thicker coat. and then farther away on the final coat to get that nice texture. I contacted the company and found out that you will not be able to patch with the liner, b/c it will NOT stick to itself. It will bond when curing, but not afterwards. Just an FYI.|
|09-19-2013 10:45 AM|
|captbo||I wan to hit mine. just can't make up my mine if I am going to paint the jeep white, if so then I will do a white liner , if I keep her red .. red she is !|
|08-30-2013 09:10 AM|
|08-30-2013 09:05 AM|
Where does one obtain this? Everywhere I go I only find T40. Rather discouraging.
|08-30-2013 06:44 AM|
Pretty sure its a T47....
Just finished Raptor Lining mine.
Here are some tips...
*80 grit sandpaper. You want adhesion, you don't want this stuff to peel up after putting a lot prepping time in it.
* Red Scotchbrite pad, use on all the spots you cant hit with the sander... good for the groves on the floor and around the anchors.also hit the spots right up the the edge of the tape before you wipe down and spray.
* Seam seal any cracks in the factory seam sealer, prevents possible water from laying and possibly causing rust. some of my seams were cracked I removed the older seam sealer and applied new.
* Wax and Grease remover, use prior to spraying removes all contaminants from the tub. again better adhesion. a solvent soaked rag followed by a dry one....
I had some rust scales inside my tub, I small angle grinder with a 36 grit pad, to remove then hit it with some self-etch primer.
This stuff sets up pretty quick, By the time I cleaned up the Splatter Gun, I was able to start untaping, Untape it sooner then later, It's going to be alot easier when this stuff is still soft....Hope this helps you obtain the best looking liner.
|08-29-2013 10:00 AM|
Another question. What size Torx wrench will I need for the bolts under the seats and the rear Seatbelt bolt.
My largest Torx wrench is just a smidge too small.
|08-28-2013 07:01 AM|
Started stripping the seats, bolts and plugs yesterday. I have a few questions and I hope I don't bug anyone with them.
I am debating removing the rear seat brackets, the back two brackets look to have new bolts in them while the front two look good and rusted. I hit them with PB Blaster before I went to bed last night so its had a good while to sit there. Do you still recommend leaving them in though? I just want a good even liner.
The trunk latch and I guess they are bump stops (not on the swing door but in the actual tub) did you remove them or just mark them off with tape?
Seat belts, I am not sure how one would remove these, or is this again just a tape off thing?
Also, here, Did you remove those four bolts up against the center of the jeep or did you just tape around them?
Thanks in advance.
|07-31-2013 03:17 PM|
|goneshootin00||Looks great! I have been thinking about doing this to my TJ. And a big thumbs up to Nebel St Automotive. Mark lives in my parent's neighborhood and has taken excellent care of all of my vehicles over the last 10 years.|
|07-24-2013 06:07 AM|
I just went to the hardware store and got some grade eight hardware. First i had to drill out the old bolt, which made the hole slightly larger anyway. Went and got a new bolt/nut/washer. Put it back in with a buddies help, now you have to hold that nut on the bottom side. Got the job done though, and it ain't moving anywhere.
But if you can get around removing those brackets in the first place, don't touch em. Those bolts snapping seem to be a common occurrence. Not saying 100% you are going to snap one, but there's a strong chance.
|07-23-2013 11:31 PM|
I agree w/ Viper. it is not hard to get the gloss off the paint. Keep the back seat brackets in place, so you don't end up breaking bolts, seems to be a common problem. I am having issues w/ finding new ones to fit back in there. Been to HD, Fastenal, even went to Jeep and they gave me the wrong bolt. Still searching....
I stressed too over the week before I was going to do it... it was easy, don't stress. Focus on Prep. Spraying part is easy.... should not take you long to do. Use all 4 bottles and don't be afraid to get closer on the first bottle or two for a thicker coat. you can step back a bit on the final bottle to get a clean coating on top.
I wonder how well the last bottle will even stick on the surface of the liner, because it is slick!
|07-12-2013 03:54 PM|
|viperx6x9x||search for a raptor liner post by golden sahara, he has pics, and i tagged some of my pics at the end of that post i think.|
|07-12-2013 03:53 PM|
I used 120 grit paper i think sand lightly., all you gotta do is scuff it up. For those valleys and channels those green scotch brite pads help get in there a bit.
Easiest way i found, get a bucket of soapy water and a rag, and a scotch brite pad spongy side. give it a good car wash inside first to get mud/dirt/dust whatever out of your way.
Then do your sanding/scuffing. then get a vacuum and suck up everything you can. Then hit it up with acetone, or something to get the leftover dust.
Pretty much ready to spray at that point. tape off and/or cover anything you don't want liner on, self etch primer on any bare metal spots, and go to town.
|07-12-2013 12:54 PM|
|Bullethead||any thoughts on using a Power, Hand Sander to help speed up the process? stick with 180 - 220 grit?|
|07-12-2013 12:12 PM|
|Bullethead||Thats fine, its not my DD. I need to learn to take everything out as well. glad yours came out so good!|
|07-12-2013 11:30 AM|
don't worry too much. I was scared i would mess it up too, had no idea what i was doing.
Just spend extra time on the prep. And tape off and bag everything you can, you will get overspray. You will be fine. The beauty of this stuff is it's a rough finish anyway, you can't see the runs like normal paint if you accidentally spray too thick of a coat.
I sprayed mine when I had 3 days afterwards that I didn't have to drive it. Set's up fine for light duty use in that time, just put in the driver seat and seat belt and such, anything you need to drive it safely.
Then give it a week before you start putting in the other seats, brackets, console, etc.
And be prepared for that wet paint smell to linger a few weeks before it goes away. Had to drive around with all the windows out for a while. It gets annoying for a while but it will finally go away.
|07-12-2013 06:40 AM|
|Bullethead||ugh, freaking nervous haha. won't be spraying for at least 2 or 3 weeks, keeps raining every day here and going on Vaca next week but i'm getting as learned up as I can|
|07-11-2013 02:47 PM|
i pulled em after the third coat. Pretty much did all three coats right after each other as it's a rough surface and i wasn't worried about runs. Just as long as it took me to pour in the hardener, shake it up and attach the bottle back to the gun is all the time i waited in between.
Turned out looking great though. But one biggie, do not let the gun tip too far over. There's a vent hole on top and blobs of the stuff will fall out resulting in big puddle spots. If you do, quickly smear it around and flatten it out as much as possible with your hand (wear gloves obviously). the next coat will cover it up fairly well.
and 2. Find a piece of plywood or something to practice spraying on so you can judge the distance you want to keep from the surface you are painting. Consistant air pressure and distance is key to a nice uniform looking end product.
And 3 if you think you have taped off enough surface around what you are spraying, double it just in case. I went up and over the window channels with mine, and had some overspray issues on the paint between that and the fender flares.. Had to get the goo gone out immediately to get it off the paint so it couldn't set up. It does take some time to harden so you have a little time to work with if you accidentally overspray.
|07-11-2013 01:56 PM|
|This thread has more than 30 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|