|06-23-2013 11:25 PM|
Thanks guys. Moderate (most would probably consider it light) off road is planned. I'm based in Florida, so options to wheel hard are very limited. But I get into more trouble on occasional trips to NC.
I was just concerned I screwed up getting a sport and not a rubi.
|06-23-2013 09:55 PM|
|06-23-2013 09:32 PM|
|06-23-2013 08:21 PM|
I'll eventually have C gussets welded on my d44, when/if I move up to 35" tires.
If I were taking it to a shop and having it pulled for a truss to be welded up, I'd probably wait until I had the cash to do a G2 or similar Axle upgrade.
I would probably approach it the same way for a d30.
Pick a capability/tire size and build as you need.... gets expensive though
|06-23-2013 08:00 PM|
|06-23-2013 07:31 PM|
I don't know anyone who's broken a D44, but know a few that have broken D30's. They guy that bought my D30 claimed it was his 3rd one. He does lots of hard rock crawling on 35's. I saw it a few months after he bought it: Sleeve, gussets, and the Artec truss. Doubt he'll break it now.
So you are taking a chance if you're going to bash it on rocks. If light to medium wheeling, or only street driving, you'll be fine.
Plus if you do break it, a used D30 would probably go for around $500. I sold mine for $400 with a PSC diff cover. Just depends on your area if you'd be able to find one close. A D44 in decent condition can run $1000+ completely stock. I paid $1500 for a near new front D44 with only 1500 miles on it. Also a decent way to add a front locker.
|06-22-2013 11:48 PM|
The only big difference on the 30 and 44 are the way smaller R&P and only 27 spline axles. The same things have to be reinforced on both of them for heavy wheeling. Personally I wouldn't run 37s or even 35s on 27 spline shafts, but I am extremely hard on parts and tend to want things on the beefy side. For example I am running 35splines in my 44 and dought I will evey run anything over a 37/38 on it.
If you don't plan on being stupid then a 30 is great for running around on 35/37 inch tires after doing a bit of reinforcement. And of course you can get away without doing anything to them and be ok for a while. Heck I know quite a few people who got a year or so of wheeling out of theres before a tube bent or a C oppened up causing a shaft to break at the joint.
|06-22-2013 11:34 PM|
dont feel like the D30 is a bad axle, I have had no issues running 37's on my 30.
that being said, metal tends to break at some point. an Artec truss ($250) is a cheap and effective way to make sure you dont trash it. it sure gives me more balls.
|06-22-2013 11:09 PM|
|jagerhelix||Your 30 will be absolutely fine. sleeve and gussets for a bit of insurance and your good to go. d44 isn't worth it for 35s. I run my 30 sleeved, gusseted, with rcv shafts 5:13s and an Aussie locker and it turns my 37s on the rocks just fine. But I'm naturally pretty easy on the skinny.|
|06-22-2013 10:27 PM|
How are you going to use your Jeep?
If you're going to wheel it hard, you probably want something like an Artec front axle armor kit with the truss, "C" gussets, and the track bar armor mount. and you should be mostly OK.
|06-22-2013 05:11 PM|
|tab22092||I know a bajilion people running 35's on there stock d30's. i will be doing it as well after a re-gear. Unless your banging off of rocks on the rubicon trail, you dont need any types of gussets or trusses. Pure waste of money imho.|
|06-22-2013 05:07 PM|
D30 vs. D44 front
I might have been asleep at the wheel, but I thought the Sport and Rubicon models both had D44s in the front, but I just read that my 13’ sport has a D30 front. What's the difference in terms of strength and durability? I was planning on adding some support like a truss, gussets, etc., but I'm wondering if it's worth it or if I need to upgrade to a 44. How does a supported D30 compare to a stock D44? How about a supported 44?
I run 33's now but plan on going to 35’s at some point.