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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 02:58 PM
IIONLY Adjusted my brake shoe star wheels, adjusted the hand brake cable, cleaned the rotors and drums (hoping it would help stop my squeal, it didn't), rotated my tires and sprayed underneath with some asphalt undercoating. Was going to change my spark plugs but my plug socket and gap tool have disappeared. So guess that may happen next week. Also gave "the tank" a nice wash. It was a good day.
Today 07:27 AM
Muddeprived
Quote:
Originally Posted by wwch99tj View Post
I bought one of the cheap fenders a couple years ago, I wasn't too impressed with the fit. I had to oval the holes on the body side,
drill the hole on the top at the grill... (circled in pic)

I was changing front stock flares to Sahara flares at the time, but the fender didn't have enough metal bent down around the radius in front for the flare to reach (area circled in pic)


And the fender seems to have a slight arch to it, the hood hits the middle of it...
I can get a pic of this tomorrow if you want.
I better test fit mine just to be sure. How difficult was it to remove the factory fenders?
Yesterday 08:29 PM
Momamac I did 3/8" holes. Figured 1/4" may be too easy to get plugged up.
Yesterday 08:12 PM
PantherWingsfan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Momamac View Post
Drilled drain holes in the frame, wire brushed the minimal rust on the outside and rustoleumed it. Next step, vacuum out the frame...have 4 cans of Eastwood Internal Frame Coat at the ready! Frame still solid and thick, want to keep it that way!
I've been cleaning and painting mine as well. Curious, what size holes did you drill?
Yesterday 07:58 PM
wwch99tj
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddeprived View Post

I did a bunch of reading on reviews and everyone who bought their fenders say they fit perfectly so I have high hopes mine will to. They are identical to my stock ones, only no rust.

I wonder what I can do about the rust-prone area under the fender? There's like a flat plate welded under it I guess for support and I can see how salt/water/mud gets stuck up inside causing the rust.
I bought one of the cheap fenders a couple years ago, I wasn't too impressed with the fit. I had to oval the holes on the body side,
drill the hole on the top at the grill... (circled in pic)

I was changing front stock flares to Sahara flares at the time, but the fender didn't have enough metal bent down around the radius in front for the flare to reach (area circled in pic)


And the fender seems to have a slight arch to it, the hood hits the middle of it...
I can get a pic of this tomorrow if you want.
Yesterday 07:43 PM
srad600
Quote:
Originally Posted by Momamac View Post
Drilled drain holes in the frame, wire brushed the minimal rust on the outside and rustoleumed it. Next step, vacuum out the frame...have 4 cans of Eastwood Internal Frame Coat at the ready! Frame still solid and thick, want to keep it that way!
I wish some one who owned mine before me did something like this. I've repaired mine in mode places then I can count now. Not sure if its worth doing anything at this point.
Yesterday 07:32 PM
Momamac Drilled drain holes in the frame, wire brushed the minimal rust on the outside and rustoleumed it. Next step, vacuum out the frame...have 4 cans of Eastwood Internal Frame Coat at the ready! Frame still solid and thick, want to keep it that way!
Yesterday 07:29 PM
PantherWingsfan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holton345 View Post
I too have wondered this. Seems to me that nothing under there needs to breath. Perhaps sealing off every seam, gap and crevice with RTV and then priming and painting or bedlining might take care of that. You would have to mask off a lot, though. I had my fenders off recently and it looked pretty do-able to me. If it worked the payoff would be no more rotted fenders...
Sounds like a good idea. I considered after market designs but I couldn't find any I really liked. In MI mine are definitely salt victims.
Yesterday 06:54 PM
Holton345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddeprived View Post
I wonder what I can do about the rust-prone area under the fender? There's like a flat plate welded under it I guess for support and I can see how salt/water/mud gets stuck up inside causing the rust.
I too have wondered this.

Seems to me that nothing under there needs to breath. Perhaps sealing off every seam, gap and crevice with RTV and then priming and painting or bedlining might take care of that. You would have to mask off a lot, though.

I had my fenders off recently and it looked pretty do-able to me. If it worked the payoff would be no more rotted fenders...
Yesterday 06:37 PM
PantherWingsfan A little before and after of the fender paint job.
Yesterday 06:03 PM
Muddeprived
Quote:
Originally Posted by PantherWingsfan View Post
Not far off on my to do list. Id love to hear how they line up with everything during install. Keep us updated!
I did a bunch of reading on reviews and everyone who bought their fenders say they fit perfectly so I have high hopes mine will to. They are identical to my stock ones, only no rust.

I wonder what I can do about the rust-prone area under the fender? There's like a flat plate welded under it I guess for support and I can see how salt/water/mud gets stuck up inside causing the rust.
Yesterday 06:01 PM
PantherWingsfan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddeprived View Post
Received my two brand new fenders from ebay. Everything looks intact and gonna take em to get painted soon.
Not far off on my to do list. Id love to hear how they line up with everything during install. Keep us updated!
Yesterday 05:45 PM
Muddeprived Received my two brand new fenders from ebay. Everything looks intact and gonna take em to get painted soon.
Yesterday 05:22 PM
PantherWingsfan
Quote:
Originally Posted by raif281 View Post
nice repaint job
Thanks! Did the flares too. What a difference!
Yesterday 04:17 PM
raif281 nice repaint job
Yesterday 02:28 PM
PantherWingsfan Fresh coat of paint on the bumpers. Much better!
Yesterday 02:18 PM
gnater76 Installed Rokmen gearbox skid and Novak xfer case cable. Holy smooth as butter!!! Wish id done that ages ago. If you only do one mod to your rig, do the cable. Unbelievable how smooth and easy it is now!!!!!
Yesterday 03:32 AM
JustinAppleseed
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holton345 View Post
The D30 U-joints kicked my ass. They were so badly stuck and rusted that the ears of the shafts ended up getting bent. The bends are so minor that I cannot see them, but the caps will NOT line up right on two of them (right inner, left outer). I have now destroyed two Spicer 5-760X U-joints trying to get them in on one side each time. Three caps seat perfectly on each side, but one bore has been bent on each axle shaft combo and the caps keep shattering. (No, no bearings fell over. The shaft ears are actually bent according to my micrometer and calipers, but I cannot *see* the bend.) Damn. So I just bought a set of alloys off Amazon. I hope they are good. I am deficient in my knowledge of axle shafts. I know I want to beef up my D 30, but the cost had me putting that off, but the OEM Jeep parts are even more expensive! I'll be damned if I drop that sort of coin on parts with a known failure rate like the stock shafts have! So I got this kit: http://www.amazon.com/Alloy-USA-1214.../dp/B000FQ08MO It comes with China-made U-joints that I do not trust. I trust the shafts based on what I have read here, but not those U-joints. So I added in a pair of Spicer 5-760X joints. And I fully expect to have them press in PERFECTLY for that price! HAHAHA!!! Anyone here have this kit or at least the Alloy USA 27 spline shafts? Please tell me I didn't just buy a big box of crap...
I have the 30 Spline inner with 27 Spline outer version of that kit, & the 30 Spline rear kit as well.. ARB's front & rear, all Timken bearings, Timken hubs, & CTM joints.. Been running this for 2-3 months now on 35's & no issues or complaints... If I somehow twist one? It will be an excuse to get a set of Revolution axels when they come out.
08-30-2014 11:51 PM
BuzzinHornets Today I replaced the cooling system. Radiator, water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, temp sensor, hoses, belt and idler pully. Fingers crossed I have no leaks and I don't have to mess with it again for quite some time!
08-30-2014 10:43 PM
Holton345 The D30 U-joints kicked my ass. They were so badly stuck and rusted that the ears of the shafts ended up getting bent. The bends are so minor that I cannot see them, but the caps will NOT line up right on two of them (right inner, left outer). I have now destroyed two Spicer 5-760X U-joints trying to get them in on one side each time. Three caps seat perfectly on each side, but one bore has been bent on each axle shaft combo and the caps keep shattering. (No, no bearings fell over. The shaft ears are actually bent according to my micrometer and calipers, but I cannot *see* the bend.)

Damn.

So I just bought a set of alloys off Amazon. I hope they are good. I am deficient in my knowledge of axle shafts. I know I want to beef up my D 30, but the cost had me putting that off, but the OEM Jeep parts are even more expensive! I'll be damned if I drop that sort of coin on parts with a known failure rate like the stock shafts have! So I got this kit:

http://www.amazon.com/Alloy-USA-1214.../dp/B000FQ08MO

It comes with China-made U-joints that I do not trust. I trust the shafts based on what I have read here, but not those U-joints. So I added in a pair of Spicer 5-760X joints. And I fully expect to have them press in PERFECTLY for that price!

HAHAHA!!!

Anyone here have this kit or at least the Alloy USA 27 spline shafts? Please tell me I didn't just buy a big box of crap...
08-30-2014 10:07 PM
Owen_TJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by traveler0197 View Post
I installed my Poison Spyder Hood Louver. The first of many more mods.
Kinda puckers the butthole before you make the first mark, huh lol. Looks great, man...did mine a couple weeks ago.

But for today...i ordered my new UCF tummy tuck and cable shifter!!! Cant wait...
08-30-2014 09:58 PM
ZLSeth Ok... It wasn't today.... A week ago, I installed my Trek Top NX, so now I can sell all of my other tops: Bestop bikini with header, factory soft top in decent condition and hard top (currently missing rear window due to trail damage).
08-30-2014 09:07 PM
PantherWingsfan Already a million times better. One down. Three to go!
08-30-2014 08:50 PM
Jeffk1975
Quote:
Originally Posted by traveler0197 View Post
I installed my Poison Spyder Hood Louver. The first of many more mods.
Damn that looks awesome!

I let my TJ make a friend today.
And I fixed my plate/tire carrier interference issue. Pulled the plate holder off and drilled 4 holes in my plate. Added a little double sided tape to the back and stuck/bolted it on..

08-30-2014 08:36 PM
mikhail2400
Rocker Guard

I installed my new Smittybilt (I know I know but the price was damn good) Rocker Guard with step. After looking at them sitting next to my faded gray fender flares I just had to rattle can bedliner them and am extremely happy with the out come.
New Rocker Guards old gray flares



New Rocker Guards with newly repainted Flares



I also installed a new stereo deck, Pioneer MVH-X360BT, along with new Kicker dash and sound bar speakers. Hands down the best mod ive done for under $180.00. Love the sounds, I can actually hear them now and my android phone will connect thru Bluetooth/USB/front jack. No CD player on the new deck but don't need one since my phone carries all the tunes I can handle.

Sorry about the pics. Not sure whats gone wrong with photobucket but cant get it to show anything but small or grainy pics.
P.S. Love the Poison Spyder hood! Looks great and you do nice work
08-30-2014 08:36 PM
traveler0197 I installed my Poison Spyder Hood Louver. The first of many more mods.











08-29-2014 08:14 PM
Muddeprived
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holton345 View Post
I hate it when online stores do not tell you before you check out that a part is not in stock.

I shop at a Volvo specialty shop a lot, and every product page tells the live count of that item. I have actually seen the number drop at busy times. Very helpful. And the order history page gives fairly accurate estimates on when an item will be in, should you go ahead and order something that is out of stock. It tells this this before you check out, too.

I think Quadratec has something like this now. But it is much more limited.

I wonder if such inventory control software is really expensive over the stuff many of the smaller 4x4 shops use. It seems that if they keep tabs on what they have that telling us as we shop would be an upgrade to their system and website that would not cost too much and would end up fostering some good customer relations due to the apparent transparency and honesty in the ordering process.

Otherwise, the way it is on a lot of sites seems like they simply want your money NOW and that they feel like, "Screw you, man. You'll get your parts soon enough. Quit whining!"

Hope you get your water pump soon!
4wd hardware has been TERRIBLE with shipping stuff since it merged with 4wp. I have to wait weeks to get something from them nowadays when back then I would have it within three days or pick it up free that same day. I never deal with 4wd hardware anymore since quadratec usually has the same part IN STOCK ready to ship.

Sad.
08-29-2014 08:03 PM
Khaki05Wrangler Put on my RC quick disconnects. Was kind of a pain because i couldn't get the right tools, but i got it done.
08-29-2014 07:25 PM
EnglishBulldog1 Hooked up my KC Flood Lights and found a new ground for my winch. Ready for some holiday wheeling.
08-29-2014 07:07 PM
moose90
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scruffy Wilson View Post
whats the hook for?
as stupid as it sounds its my gas tank key.I take it off my keys when i jump in the jeep and hook it, so if i pump gas etc i don't have to shut off jeep, i don't like to many keys on my car key ring so i don't have to hear them smacking the dash or have a bulge in my pocket
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