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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-01-2013 10:27 PM
TJ56501 I have been trying to get mine figured out for awhile now. Seems like there is a lot of slop in it. Getting frustrated with it now
06-30-2013 12:34 PM
Jerry Bransford Great, glad you got it figured out... nice work!
06-30-2013 12:32 PM
Holton345 Jerry, thanks. It works perfectly now. I tested it in 2WD, 4WD, N and 4LO. All worked fine. My day has been made and it is only 11:30 AM!!!
06-30-2013 12:47 AM
hooserdaddy Thanks Jerry....Doing this tomorrow
06-28-2013 11:12 AM
Jerry Bransford P.S. When I say to tighten it that much, I am not talking about using a 1/2" ratchet drive wrench which can easily overtighten it. I use a standard 1/2" combination box-end/open-end wrench whose length self-limits how much torque you can apply with it. Which is why smaller wrenches are made shorter.
06-28-2013 11:05 AM
Patrick H
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Here you go, the bolt I mentioned above is circled in red.

Except that that particular bolt still has snot in it....
06-28-2013 10:21 AM
Jerry Bransford Here you go, the bolt I mentioned above is circled in red.
06-28-2013 01:32 AM
Holton345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoe View Post
Or you can use my favorite method; tighten it until it strips, then back it off 1/4 turn
This place could, at times, use a Like button. LMAO!
06-27-2013 09:54 PM
hooserdaddy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoe View Post
Or you can use my favorite method; tighten it until it strips, then back it off 1/4 turn
LMAO....sounds like me!!!

I just bought a 2002 TJ with a 2" body lift and when I test drove it 4 wheel high worked perfect but 4 low would pop out of gear when you started giving it some power but if you held the handle up into 4 low it would stay and he mentioned it might need adjusted and that he never used 4 low since the body lift....I will be trying this adjustment this weekend.
06-27-2013 09:10 PM
Shoe Or you can use my favorite method; tighten it until it strips, then back it off 1/4 turn
06-27-2013 08:08 PM
Holton345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
The 3 most common problems that cause the t-case shifter to bind or not shift properly are 1) The shifter linkage slipped out of adjustment. 2) A steep t-case skidplate drop messed up the shift linkage adjustment. 3) A tall body lift messed up the shift linkage adjustment.

The usual fix for this is to try adjusting the linkage. I can't post a photo right now of where the linkage is adjusted but it's underneath & next to where the linkage connects to the transfer case. A bolt with a 1/2" head threaded into the linkage bracket holds the shifter rod that is moved in or out to get it shifting properly. With the #1 most common problem being that the rod pulled out a tad because the bolt wasn't tight enough, the usual fix is to loosen the bolt & slide the rod inward a bit to make it tighter so the shift handle can pull the t-case all the way into whatever gear you're selecting. That is what I would try first. If you can get it adjusted so it shifts properly again, tighten the snot out of that bolt so the linkage isn't likely to slip out of adjustment again.
And "tighten the snot out of it "would be about what setting on my torque wrench? HAHAHA!!! I think I can get the time needed to try this on Monday. If you can post a photo between now and then it would be highly appreciated!
06-27-2013 07:16 PM
Jerry Bransford The 3 most common problems that cause the t-case shifter to bind or not shift properly are 1) The shifter linkage slipped out of adjustment. 2) A steep t-case skidplate drop messed up the shift linkage adjustment. 3) A tall body lift messed up the shift linkage adjustment.

The usual fix for this is to try adjusting the linkage. I can't post a photo right now of where the linkage is adjusted but it's underneath & next to where the linkage connects to the transfer case. A bolt with a 1/2" head threaded into the linkage bracket holds the shifter rod that is moved in or out to get it shifting properly. With the #1 most common problem being that the rod pulled out a tad because the bolt wasn't tight enough, the usual fix is to loosen the bolt & slide the rod inward a bit to make it tighter so the shift handle can pull the t-case all the way into whatever gear you're selecting. That is what I would try first. If you can get it adjusted so it shifts properly again, tighten the snot out of that bolt so the linkage isn't likely to slip out of adjustment again.
06-27-2013 04:06 PM
KevinNJ Check your linkage and make sure it's adjusted and aligned correctly and not binding up anywhere. Is the bushing ok?
06-27-2013 11:26 AM
Big Cole Install a Novak cable shifter and discard the stock tcase linkage. The Novak is easy to install and not terribly expensive. I installed one a couple weeks ago and my tcase now shifts smoothly with minimal effort.
06-27-2013 11:19 AM
PStov98TJ The all TJ's except Rubicons came with the np231 t-case. And just fyi, the rear end won't effect it. But I've always wanted to see one of the 2.5L's with the 4.56 gears. What year was yours?

And with that said, the mounting holes where the 231 mounts to the trans maybe different between the trans. But do a search on google about the Novak Shifter cable, it maybe what you need. And one question, does the jeep have a bl?
06-27-2013 11:08 AM
mudmagnet63 Many times a small deviation in the adjustment of the shift linkage will cause shifting problems. The way I adjusted mine was to get a helper. Loosen the nut on the t case linkage have the helper move the shifter to 4lo. and manualy pull t case shift lever to 4lo also. Make sure it's securely engaged and then tighten the nut and go for a drive and run through all the gears on the t case. If it's a little off move it in small increments and drive again. Only takes 20- 30 minutes

Also check for mud rocks etc around the shift kinkage
06-27-2013 11:01 AM
Holton345
Transfer Case Lever Issues

Okay, so I am a dipstick. Call me that all you like. It is true.

I purchased a used 2003 Sport. The thing has issues, but the motor and tranny run smooth and strong, so I got it.

It is mostly a highway DD with mild off-roading needed on occasion, and a good bit of hard, inner-city, start-and-stop, crater-like pothole-dodging, gear-shifting and such.

I test drove it in a very urban area and (ahem) *forgot* to test the 4WD.

And of course the one on the Sport does not seem to work correctly. My former SE had a great, positive-shifting transfer case. It snapped cleanly into 4WD and 4LO with no issues. But this one seems to be shot.

The lever does not engage anything well and the light comes on for 4wd where it feels like the lever is in between, and 4LO never seemed to engage well. The lever does not want to go back down all the way, either. It does, but I have to let it roll just a bit.

Is the gearing in the 2.4L 4cylinder transfer case the same as the one in my 4.0L Sport? Can I just swap them? I would imagine that they are not.

My SE has (I think) 4.56 gears in the Dana 35 rear. This Sport has a Dana 44 with 3.73 gears. I do not think that this would have any bearing on the problem, but thought it might be good information to add.

Also, is this necessarily a problem inside the TC or could it be the linkage from the lever to the box?

While I do not want to drop and swap two transfer cases, if it makes my new-to-me Sport work better then I will do it.

Any help, here? Thanks!

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