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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-02-2013 09:19 AM
Drydiver Good morning all... My 91 4.0 Auto has been getting sick and then clears up.. Looking for an ECM part # 5602 7410. Mine has a noticeable burn area when looking thru the gel insulation. Ive got 212K on this one and running great when it doesn't quit while driving or not start. Been all through this thing but willing to listen. Thanks all
07-02-2013 09:06 AM
Jeep0321 My bad. It was that white seafoam smoke crap. Only lasted about 15 seconds.

I can take a ball busting...but thanks for highlighting my newbie ness
07-02-2013 12:17 AM
Originally Posted by Jeep0321 View Post
....... I noticed my injectors are smoking a bit......
Originally Posted by Jeep0321 View Post
Smoking from cylinder 1 only. It was the residual seafoam.
Sorry, I misunderstood, you had said "injectors" and though you meant "injectors" is all.....

Silly me....
07-01-2013 10:36 PM
Jeep0321 Smoking from cylinder 1 only. It was the residual seafoam.
07-01-2013 06:11 PM
Originally Posted by Jeep0321 View Post
I've got to get more 30amp fuses.
You are blowing 30 amp fuses, your injectors are smoking, and you are wondering whats wrong with your Jeep?

You have serious electrical issues....
07-01-2013 02:01 PM
Jeep0321 I've got to get more 30amp fuses.
06-30-2013 10:01 PM
maverick1979 Almost sound like a short.
06-30-2013 08:37 PM
2xs I have never seen an injector smoke....

What is your battery voltage while running? Use a meter, not the dash gauge.
06-30-2013 08:30 PM
Jeep0321 Advance auto parts. It's the Bosch pump. I noticed my injectors are smoking a bit. Going to check all O2 sensors and possibly change the injectors. Any thoughts?
06-30-2013 06:22 PM
Pittsburghwrangler Where did you get this pump? Is it possible they gave you a wrong model? I have no experience with fuel pumps this is just kind of a shot in the dark
06-29-2013 05:05 PM
Jeep0321 Brand new pump.
06-28-2013 10:21 PM
WICruiser 30 amps is a lot of juice so look for scortched wires. I am not familiar with the fuel pump ecm but it is possible that the fuel pump is basically locked up and drawing a lot of power.

On some pumps you can reverse the polarity and get the pump to run backward enough to dislodge what even is locking it up.

It is possible that the sea foam broke up a lot of junk in the tank and that seized the pump. You may need to drop the tank to sort it out.
06-28-2013 09:48 PM
Jeep0321 Well it runs. Only problem now is that I just blew 2 30amp fuses to the fuel pump ecm in 3 minutes. What the hell is causing that?!?!?
06-28-2013 12:20 PM
maverick1979 Nothing wrong with that do all my work in backyard
06-28-2013 08:31 AM
Jeep0321 Rain delay. I'm doing all the work without a garage. Curb side mechanic.
06-25-2013 07:14 PM
Jdrice82 Check the wire coming in to the CPS from the ECM. It should show 5 volts. Also crank it over with the CPS unplugged, leave the switch on then plug it back up and try to crank it.
06-25-2013 06:08 PM
Jeep0321 It's definitely the spark. Should I replace the whole distributor? I only changed the cap and rotor. The rotor is turning.
06-25-2013 06:06 PM
Jeep0321 Fuel pump is not working. In the middle of replacing that. Still no spark. I know for sure because it won't start with starter fluid. I have checked every wire I can without a volt meter. I may just have to get one. Changed the CPS, but what about the cam sensor or I also heard about a pick up coil?
06-25-2013 02:52 PM
wasomma Also I would check the battery cables, man those things really store corrosion and can cause serious starting issues. If you try and turn on the engine and you a distinctive "click" then nothing that is a strong indicator of this issue. Dunno why.
06-25-2013 02:01 PM
maverick1979 Yes it will overkillyj hade same problem with fuel pump relay pushed it back up and away it went. To bad engine swap wasn't that easy
06-25-2013 10:13 AM
OverkillYJ Grounds are the same for mostly all engines. Engine to body, battery to body and engine. Alternator to engine. A lot of time there will be more than one for the things I just listed. I am Assuming the OP checked all fuses and wiring under the fuse box next to the battery. I have seen the wires come out under the box, look fine, but stop a Jeep dead.
06-24-2013 11:31 PM
Jeep0321 Might have to buy a multimeter. The rotor turns at the correct speed. I checked that.
06-24-2013 10:29 PM
fuel/yes, spark/no

If you have one, it's time to bust out the multimeter. Start checking everything under the hood for voltage with the key in the run position. Paying close attention to the coil. You say it cranks, pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning while cranking. These are just things to start with. The list gets longer. Good luck.
06-24-2013 10:20 PM
bubbadah Fuel system cleaner not Burke system cleaner. I have a 4.0 so my. Grounds are likely different. I had a ground from the block to the firewall. Also had one from the negative wire to the firewall and the engine to the firewall.
06-24-2013 10:17 PM
bubbadah I have been there, I didn't quit and eventually figured my problem out. Sometimes wires and ground wires look good but are not. My brother had an 89 Wrangler that would not turn over. Everything checked out Ok. Turned out his battery cables were bad, even though they looked fine, I wouldn't count on the Seafoam having anything to do with it either. My jeep failed to start after I Added Burke system cleaner, it was not the cleaner.
06-24-2013 09:55 PM
maverick1979 Check the power to coil. Then check the auto shut down relay
06-24-2013 09:46 PM
Jeep0321 Changed the CPS. Where should I check the grounds?
06-24-2013 09:45 PM
Jeep0321 Yes to fuel. No to spark
06-24-2013 09:43 PM
rmloke1 Check the crankshaft position sensor too, a long shot, but caused my 91 to die out of nowhere with good grounds and fuel and battery.
06-24-2013 09:38 PM
Cowboy17 Check your grounds.
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