|07-08-2013 02:34 AM|
|mzbrandi||It may be tan. It is the one on the end of the connector. Really hard to see. Wish it could be tested before I travel 3 hours to pick up the trailer. Working on my baby is fun and frustrating. Thanks all for the comments.|
|07-07-2013 08:05 PM|
|07-07-2013 07:05 PM|
Well the controller is now complete. Upon closer investigation there are 6 wires attached to the brake switch. I found the white wire to have voltage when the brake is pushed. Will have to wait until I pick up my trailer to see if everything works correctly. If not the trailer sales guys will help fix any issues.
|07-06-2013 06:14 PM|
|07-06-2013 06:12 PM|
I mounted it on the right side of the dash below the steering wheel. Should be easy to access. I looks good. Question: does your unit have 2 blue lights that stay lit when the ignition is off? Shouldn't be an issue with draining the battery?
|07-06-2013 06:09 PM|
Thank you all for your comments. My wiring is done with the exception of the wire to the brake pedal. When I looked under the dash, the wires at the brake switch have 4 wires, which wire is the cold side of the switch? It is very tight under there.
Here is my new house. I was looking for a tent trailer, but this one is lighter and I think it is a good one. Gotta get the wiring done by Thursday when I go pick it up. Just gotta get this wiring done.
Thanks again for all the info so far. You guys are great helping out a gal who is stubborn enough to do it herself.
|07-04-2013 01:36 PM|
|Ponderosa||I have and like the Prodigy P2. It is very smooth and predictable in application. But the best thing about it is that it can be mounted in any position horizontally (around the vertical axis) and it will work fine. Some the controllers do not allow you to vary that much from horizontal making finding a mounting location more problematic.|
|07-04-2013 12:43 PM|
|Crass007||The black and red wire provide power to the brake controller , black can go to any good ground in the area of the controller install. Red goes to power and should always be a resettable circuit breaker instead of a fuse. Blue goes to blue wire to your 7way and gives power to the brake magnets. And finally the last wire goes to your brake pedal switch after the switch so it gets power when ever the peddle is pressed , this makes sure brakes only come on when you press the brakes . Some controllers have a G-force switch to adjust power to brakes others are set manually , As for what hitch you use that is more a matter of what you are towing and how it acts when you tow it , Weight distribution hitches will shift the center of gravity of your trailer forward or aft depending on how you adjust the chains,|
|07-04-2013 10:31 AM|
This equalizing hitch he is referring too is a special contraption that consists of a set of (two) spring bars and a special receiver that has rings built into it to accept the spring bars. These are made of steel that can bend somewhat and produce a spring like tension to push the load of the trailer hitch up onto the front tires of the tow vehicle. By experimentation and measuring you then determine how much spring to apply so as to return your vehicle to level. By segments of the chain in the spring bar you can adjust this. This then distributes the excess weight evenly through the tow vehicle and results in a stable even towing situation. Reduces or eliminates sway and the tendency of the tow vehicle to be too light in the front end. Being too light in the front end makes the two vehicle over react to wind and bumps and reduces the fronts brakes and traction too. You want to throw the weight of that trailer evenly onto all four wheels. And a Weight Distributing hitch system will do this.
What you do with these is, load up the trailer and truck in a fashion you intend to travel. Mock it up if you need be with sand bags or something. Then, on a good level place, you make a mark on your bumper at any point easy enough to measure from the pavement up to it. Record that measurement. Then you hook up the trailer to the ball, insert the spring bars in the receiver end, jack the trailer up with its tongue jack until it actually lifts the bumper of the jeep up a few inches or so (unloading the jeeps springs). The more you take off the easier it will be to tension the bars. They will come with a cheater bar for leveraging them. Then pick a point of the spring bars chains to start with, say link number 4 for example, hook that into the hooks on the trailer the same on each side, then lower the trailer and bumper of the jeep back down completely and see if the jeeps bumper is back to the same height as before. If its not, make sure you crank the tension back off by using the trailers jack again to raise the jeep. You do not want to un-spring the bars that are under full tension. Relieve it before prying them down. You can get hurt by the flying pry bar! Repeat until it is within an inch or so of preloaded height and your good to go. Once you know which link it "your" sweet spot, you never have to repeat this unless you change something about the load of the trailer or truck.
Something like this: http://www.americanrvcompany.com/Ree...FcOh4AodaEoAmQ
|07-04-2013 09:53 AM|
Personally I've towed a tent trailer with much less but safety first is top priority. With that said, maybe it would be a good idea to have Camping World or another RV specialty shop install your controller and assure your hitch is properly rated for your towing needs.
I see you live in Lake Tahoe... I'm familiar with the area.
Sierraville ring a bell? How about Canyon Ranch Resort?
Have fun during your retirement.. you've come a long way, enjoy it and stay safe.
|07-04-2013 07:29 AM|
I did some research and I think I have answers. I purchased a Prodigy P2 brake controller from Camping World. The unit has 4 wires (black battery pos, red from brake, white ground, and blue trailer brake). I think the black wire supplies power to the blue wire to the trailer brakes. The red wire turns on/off the power to the blue wire to the trailer brakes, and the pendulum inside the unit controls the amount of power to the trailer brakes. So, am I close?
I am starting to run out of time. Come the end of August, I will be retiring and traveling the US for the next year or two. Planning to use the trailer as a base camp on explorations of the back country.
Besides the Rockwood, thinking about a Banshee BSV2. Anyone have experiences with either unit.
|06-29-2013 08:12 PM|
Trailer towing and brake controllers
I have a 2012 Rubicon Unlimited. I just installed a Mopar 7 pin wiring harness. Now I am looking for brake controllers. As I look at a number of controllers, I see that they have 4 or more wires on them. My harness has only 1 wire that comes up into the cab of the Jeep. I thought the wire (blue) was to send a braking signal to the trailer brakes. What I see are wires for ground, battery power, wire to the cold side of the foot brake and the brake signal wire. Why is there a wire to the foot brake wires? I can see a power wire from the battery to supply the trailer brakes, but why the other wires?
Now the second part of the question. The salesman I am talking to said I need an equalizing hitch (310# dry hitch weight). If the max tow weight of 350#, why a different hitch than what I bought? Do I need it, and an anti-sway bar?
The unit I am looking at is a Rockwood Freedom 232XR and would like to pick it up in the next 2/3 weeks.
Any ideas guys and gals?