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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-02-2013 02:45 AM
wmwhitey
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweak View Post
are you talking about the slip boot or the CV boot? thats good to know, I havent seen it, like I said its just been stated more than a few times around the forum, but that makes me feel better because I'm just waiting for a stick to jump up in there.
The slip boot the one I posted the pic of if the CV boot tears I would defiantly buy a new DS. I just installed a new front 1310 adams DS with solid spiced ujoints.
07-02-2013 01:59 AM
Tweak
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmwhitey View Post
I dont feel this is accurate I have friends that have ripped the boot on there stock DS and all we did was take it off pack it with grease and it has been holding strong over a year now and wheeled hard.
are you talking about the slip boot or the CV boot? thats good to know, I havent seen it, like I said its just been stated more than a few times around the forum, but that makes me feel better because I'm just waiting for a stick to jump up in there.
07-02-2013 01:55 AM
wmwhitey
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweak View Post
the amount of clearance on a 3.6 is seriously tiny, I installed the spacers with my 3.5RK lift (more like 4.5) and I still rub. the general consensus is that the slip boot is not an integral part. aftermarket shafts dont have them. the CV boot however, is integral and once its seal is broken the driveshaft will soon follow.

I dont feel this is accurate I have friends that have ripped the boot on there stock DS and all we did was take it off pack it with grease and it has been holding strong over a year now and wheeled hard.
07-02-2013 01:50 AM
Tweak the amount of clearance on a 3.6 is seriously tiny, I installed the spacers with my 3.5RK lift (more like 4.5) and I still rub. the general consensus is that the slip boot is not an integral part. aftermarket shafts dont have them. the CV boot however, is integral and once its seal is broken the driveshaft will soon follow.
07-02-2013 01:20 AM
wmwhitey Sure go 4" with out an exhaust extension and a new front DS it will look like this if you go offroad I was not even flexing hard when this happened.
07-02-2013 01:10 AM
Eric Chrisman
Please reply

So is it only necessary to replace the front drive shaft with a 4" lift?
08-06-2012 10:25 AM
Tumbleweed IMHO this is what happened to me. The DS angled down and rubbed the Tranny skid bar.

Unbelievably, this boot is not available. The entire DS needs to be replaced. Incredible. You can replace the boot on a CV joint, a much more complicate item. Yet a slip joint, not so much. I might try to use a shock cover instead if I can find one the right diameter.
06-19-2012 05:19 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by KSPHI
I've got a recently installed TeraFlex 4" kit on my '12 JKU. JUst looking at the front DS angle makes me nauseous. IMO, if you're going for the 4", absolutely budget for driveshafts. Sure, some say it's unnecessary, but if you're like me, and a bit of a worrier, the piece of mind derived from new shafts justifies the cost every time!

That said, I'm still waiting on my shafts
06-18-2012 09:56 PM
KSPHI I've got a recently installed TeraFlex 4" kit on my '12 JKU. JUst looking at the front DS angle makes me nauseous. IMO, if you're going for the 4", absolutely budget for driveshafts. Sure, some say it's unnecessary, but if you're like me, and a bit of a worrier, the piece of mind derived from new shafts justifies the cost every time!

That said, I'm still waiting on my shafts
06-07-2012 08:26 PM
snochick
Quote:
Originally Posted by snochick
Here is the problem area in the first pic. If we let the front axle travel too far it's going to rub. We will be replacing this soon. Because although it will probably work for awhile it is going to get damaged. This is our rubicon with a 3" lift.

In the 2nd pic you can see the difference with an aftermarket driveshaft. This Is my gecko with a 4" lift.

Hopefully this shows you the difference well enough to make sense. It doesn't matter what brand you buy. It has to do with the height.
Alright sorry flip the pics around. My first attempt at posting pics from my phone.
06-07-2012 08:21 PM
snochick Here is the problem area in the first pic. If we let the front axle travel too far it's going to rub. We will be replacing this soon. Because although it will probably work for awhile it is going to get damaged. This is our rubicon with a 3" lift.

Attachment 129860

In the 2nd pic you can see the difference with an aftermarket driveshaft. This Is my gecko with a 4" lift.

Hopefully this shows you the difference well enough to make sense. It doesn't matter what brand you buy. It has to do with the height.
06-07-2012 08:19 PM
pluke the 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by snochick View Post
This would be a good spot for someone to post a pic of what happens to the driveshaft if you don't change it.
haha you will learn young one, you will learn. go out and disconnect your front sway bar links and really flex it out. don't pose it, flex it, crawl under and snap photos of that driveline.
06-07-2012 08:10 PM
snochick This would be a good spot for someone to post a pic of what happens to the driveshaft if you don't change it.
06-07-2012 07:03 PM
Ricky-2012JKU
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jervboy
I was looking around at some other forums and some other sites and came up with this lift kit, Full Traction 4" Ultimate Suspension Systems, says no driveshaft mods needed because of the adjustable control arms??? And adjustable front and rear track bars???
That's just advertising. This is where companies like to play around with words like "not required". Yea do you NEED new drive shaft after a for inch lift. No, but it is highly highly recommend for a 4 inch lift. To give you an idea of all the 3 inch lifted jeeps at te local dealer here have stock DS. all the lifted keeps higher than 3 have jk 2dr front and rear aftermarket DS and jk 4dr have front aftermarket and rear stock.
06-07-2012 06:54 PM
pluke the 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by snochick View Post
The reason you need to change the driveshaft is bc anything over 3" is gonna cause the stock driveshaft to rub where that boot is. An aftermarket one is smaller in diameter and doesn't have the boot or need one negating the rub factor.

That being said I just installed a 3" and there's no issue there so something to consider. It's a 2011 though 2012 needs something extra due to different exhaust.
if you have an automatic, you're going to have issues...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jervboy View Post
I was looking around at some other forums and some other sites and came up with this lift kit, Full Traction 4" Ultimate Suspension Systems, says no driveshaft mods needed because of the adjustable control arms??? And adjustable front and rear track bars???
that's bullshit. it has to do with the shocks.
06-07-2012 05:36 PM
Jervboy I was looking around at some other forums and some other sites and came up with this lift kit, Full Traction 4" Ultimate Suspension Systems, says no driveshaft mods needed because of the adjustable control arms??? And adjustable front and rear track bars???
06-07-2012 05:28 PM
snochick The reason you need to change the driveshaft is bc anything over 3" is gonna cause the stock driveshaft to rub where that boot is. An aftermarket one is smaller in diameter and doesn't have the boot or need one negating the rub factor.

That being said I just installed a 3" and there's no issue there so something to consider. It's a 2011 though 2012 needs something extra due to different exhaust.
06-07-2012 02:08 PM
pluke the 2 No. After 3.5" of lift you should be looking for replacement drive lines.
06-07-2012 10:47 AM
Jervboy
4" lift question?

I was looking at some full traction 3" lifts, they look as though you do not need to mod the drive shafts at all because of all of the adjustable components with the lift, ie..trackbar, ect...especially with a four door wrangler.
Is there a 4" lift out there that does not need any driveshaft mods or driveshaft replacements??

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