Jeep Wrangler Forum - Reply to Topic
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Tech Forum > Odd break sound

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Thread: Odd break sound Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
07-08-2013 10:21 AM
Getnoff
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomdata View Post
Without feedback there cannot be improvement.

I feel I was as polite as possible about it.
Fair enough.
Troy
07-08-2013 09:54 AM
JWBooth
Good two here!

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Silver Gorilla View Post
no worries, i got it fixed!!what it was it that the housing for the bolts was to far forward. was able to press it back to it would ift in between the break pad and the bolt! Will post pics when i clear some space on my account. Thanks for all the help you guys!!
F a bunch of grammar. Well done on the brakes.
07-08-2013 08:47 AM
Tomdata Without feedback there cannot be improvement.

I feel I was as polite as possible about it.
07-08-2013 01:33 AM
Getnoff
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomdata View Post
Is "gonna" proper English?
Wasn't me on the soap box, harassing the OP about his grammar. If it really bothered you that much, it might have been better (def nicer) to ignore and keep scrolling. But hey, maybe ur comment has helped this guy fix his Jeep...or maybe his grammar. Hmmm, maybe he was frantically typing on an iphone and was more concerned about fixing his rig than typos. I bet next time he will spend more time with a dictionary close at hand as to not offend any other anal retentive folks here.
Troy
07-07-2013 12:45 AM
Tomdata
Quote:
Originally Posted by Getnoff View Post

If you're gonna play English teacher, don't forget your punctuation.
Troy
Is "gonna" proper English?
07-06-2013 10:31 PM
Getnoff
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomdata View Post
Spelling police

Brake not break
Rotor not rotter
Tire tread not tire thread (I see this one all the time on Craigslist). "Tires still gots some good threads on them"

Sorry.. But the title was killing me
If you're gonna play English teacher, don't forget your punctuation.
Troy
07-06-2013 10:13 AM
Tomdata Spelling police

Brake not break
Rotor not rotter
Tire tread not tire thread (I see this one all the time on Craigslist). "Tires still gots some good threads on them"

Sorry.. But the title was killing me
07-06-2013 09:51 AM
Getnoff Congrats!!! Feels good after all that cussin doesn't it?!
Troy
07-06-2013 01:38 AM
The Silver Gorilla no worries, i got it fixed!!what it was it that the housing for the bolts was to far forward. was able to press it back to it would ift in between the break pad and the bolt! Will post pics when i clear some space on my account. Thanks for all the help you guys!!
07-05-2013 08:55 PM
Getnoff
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Silver Gorilla View Post
There is not enough room between the caliper and the piece of metal the the bolt screws into.
Can't wrap my head around what u mean. Can u shoot a quick pic? Been a few hours, hope u figured it out by now.
Troy
07-05-2013 05:21 PM
The Silver Gorilla There is not enough room between the caliper and the piece of metal the the bolt screws into.
07-05-2013 05:01 PM
The Silver Gorilla I did i pushed it all the way back, imma pop the hood and look, havnt seen any fall but ill double check.
07-05-2013 04:33 PM
Getnoff This is why u need to use a c clamp and push piston in to make room for the full new pads. B carefull that u do not let the brake fluid spill out of the master cyl when u do it. Open cap on cyl and syphin a bit out if it is near the top. If it is a little low, u should be fine...just keep an eye on it.
Troy
07-05-2013 04:23 PM
The Silver Gorilla OK is there a trick to putting the calipers back on? im trying to put the bulbs back but its like the break pads are to large. any advice?
07-03-2013 11:12 PM
Mbclark
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Silver Gorilla View Post
Hmm i dont wana buy a cheep rotor, any suggestions? It looks like only one has to be replaced since it has grooves in it.
If the tech said they just needed to be turned I'm assuming he measured them and they were within tolerance. If that's the case they don't need to be replaced, they need to machined. Most brake shops will do it for about $8 each if you bring them the rotors. If you have a Napa Auto Parts around they usually offer it. You only need to replace when they can't be turned anymore or the grooves are too deep to machine out and stay within tolerance. I personally buy new rotors on my first brake job and then take the old ones down to be machined and stick them in the garage for next time. This way I save time and always have a fresh set of rotors. As I mentioned in my previous comment, never just replace pads! Always have nice smooth even machined surface with a new set if pads. They'll last longer, work better, be quieter and most of all stop better.
07-03-2013 09:50 PM
The Silver Gorilla Hmm i dont wana buy a cheep rotor, any suggestions? It looks like only one has to be replaced since it has grooves in it.
07-03-2013 09:49 PM
Mbclark
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Silver Gorilla View Post
good to know, but the guy said i wouldn't need to rotors but they may need to be "shaved down"
Yes always either have the rotors machined or replace them when replacing the pads, even surfaces are important. Then grease the back of the pad where it contacts the caliper and piston, also grease the slide pins as I mentioned. You'll get many miles of trouble free driving.
07-03-2013 08:59 PM
The Silver Gorilla good to know, but the guy said i wouldn't need to rotors but they may need to be "shaved down"
07-03-2013 08:33 PM
Mbclark
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Silver Gorilla View Post
yeah i hear you can just compress them back so you dont need to bleed, because i did just replace the break fluid so i know its clean. Now what are you thoughts on organic,simi metallic and ceramic brakes? are ceramics work the $50?
Some rotors can't handle ceramic pads. Material is so hard it will eat up rotors. Best is to stick with OEM unless you know your rotors can handle it. Don't forget to put fresh grease in the caliper slide pins because you don't want those sticking.
07-03-2013 08:11 PM
The Silver Gorilla
Quote:
Originally Posted by Getnoff View Post
No need to bleed. Pull wheel. Remove the 2 (10mm?) bolts that attatch caliper. Swing it out and zip tie it out of the way and pull off pads front and rear. Put c clamp on piston and screw down till flush. Do pull master cyl cover off and it should be low. As u screw in c clamp the brake fld level in master cyl will raise. Syphin out if needed. Install new pads. Use a non squeal grease that u can buy cheap at auto parts store. Reassemble. Check master cyl for full. Drink beer.
Good luck.
Troy
Btw, where in florida ru?
Thanks,iv been looking at some videos on how to do it. Im in the Tampa area. Just look for a silver jeep with a cow skull on it haha
07-03-2013 08:04 PM
Getnoff No need to bleed. Pull wheel. Remove the 2 (10mm?) bolts that attatch caliper. Swing it out and zip tie it out of the way and pull off pads front and rear. Put c clamp on piston and screw down till flush. Do pull master cyl cover off and it should be low. As u screw in c clamp the brake fld level in master cyl will raise. Syphin out if needed. Install new pads. Use a non squeal grease that u can buy cheap at auto parts store. Reassemble. Check master cyl for full. Drink beer.
Good luck.
Troy
Btw, where in florida ru?
07-03-2013 06:52 PM
The Silver Gorilla yeah i hear you can just compress them back so you dont need to bleed, because i did just replace the break fluid so i know its clean. Now what are you thoughts on organic,simi metallic and ceramic brakes? are ceramics work the $50?
07-03-2013 06:36 PM
JWBooth
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Silver Gorilla View Post
Now I'm just going to replace the pads for now, and maybe shave my rotor since they have some grooves. But if im just replacing pads would i need to bleed the system?
Dunno about that one, from what I've read/heard the "need to bleed" seems to be hit and miss. If the caliper is stuck out or extended and won't push back in, I assume you'll need to pop the top off the master cylinder (seems easiest???) to release the pressure in the lines and then you gotta bleed 'em.

Y'all enjoy the 4th o' July.
-JDub
07-03-2013 05:49 PM
The Silver Gorilla
Quote:
Originally Posted by JWBooth View Post
Look bro, if you can't stop your brakes are SHOT!!! That's like driving in the dark with no headlights. Your pads are worn so thin the caliper's completely extended and won't compress back in without a little help. I'm an amateur mechanic- at best- and replaced mine a just over a month ago. If you have a jack, tire wrench and a pair of pliers (ratchet/socket's easier, just say'n) YOU GOT THIS!!!! The right side took me 45 mins and the left took 10. They back together the same way the came apart. I lucked out and didn't even need to bleed them.

Just Youtube it and you'll see it's not as complicated as you're what thinking. Then go to AZ, tell them what you need (don't forget the brake grease) and replace those damn things before somebody gets hurt.


-JDub
Now I'm just going to replace the pads for now, and maybe shave my rotor since they have some grooves. But if im just replacing pads would i need to bleed the system?
07-03-2013 05:41 PM
The Silver Gorilla CHANGE OF PLANS. surprise surprise the guy was trying to upsell me and wanted to basically replace everything, but he did tell me i need new break pads so im going to do this myself after all. Going to replace the pads then take it up to Crystal river with the "good ol boys" and some beer and make sure there are no other problems.
07-03-2013 04:59 PM
western196611 I just had to do mine on my YJ. My brakes wore out prematurely due to rotten brake hoses. They would let my brakes work but not let them release. Pads were 35.00 My calipers were $20 each with a $20 core charge which I got back. the hoses were aprox $30 each. I didn't need rotors but they were 25 each. All from AutoZone.
07-03-2013 04:53 PM
The Silver Gorilla I would like to do it myself, but its raining everyday here in florida, ima just bring it up to tire kingdom and have em fix this. im not a fan of fixing things in the rain haha
07-03-2013 04:34 PM
JWBooth Actually this video is pretty much right on. (and no, I don't work for AZ...!!!!! It's just the closest place to my house to get parts and sh-t.)

AutoZone - Video Library

-JDub
07-03-2013 04:32 PM
JWBooth
Stop the madness!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Silver Gorilla View Post
i am having a more difficult time stopping also
Look bro, if you can't stop your brakes are SHOT!!! That's like driving in the dark with no headlights. Your pads are worn so thin the caliper's completely extended and won't compress back in without a little help. I'm an amateur mechanic- at best- and replaced mine a just over a month ago. If you have a jack, tire wrench and a pair of pliers (ratchet/socket's easier, just say'n) YOU GOT THIS!!!! The right side took me 45 mins and the left took 10. They back together the same way the came apart. I lucked out and didn't even need to bleed them.

Just Youtube it and you'll see it's not as complicated as you're what thinking. Then go to AZ, tell them what you need (don't forget the brake grease) and replace those damn things before somebody gets hurt.


-JDub
07-03-2013 10:51 AM
89Saharagreen you tube is your friend if no 4x4 clubs are near by. Breaks all PUN's intended on that! are easy to do even for a novice.

the pads come right off all you need is a good 6 inch c clamp to push the cylinder back up.

With out doing a complete write up buy some brake cleaner and pads and rotors and go to it. It is a simple bolt on item and assuming you do not disconnect any of the brake lines you should not even have to bleed the system. And do it now before you rear end someone
This thread has more than 30 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:39 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC