|07-04-2013 11:45 AM|
|Hokieneer||How well do those keep the mud and rock spray off the doors?|
|06-26-2013 08:20 PM|
|Hokieneer||Sweet! those look awesome, I am thinking that may be my next jeep purchase thanks for the pics!|
|06-26-2013 08:09 PM|
Got pretty busy with work and some household stuff...but here are some more pics as requested. I used a standard skinny pen to use as reference of how close the tolerances are for fit and finish. Its truely a great product!
|06-22-2013 04:07 PM|
|06-22-2013 11:17 AM|
|06-21-2013 08:43 AM|
|Hokieneer||Hey Strizzy, Great build! how are you liking the LoD Sliders? happen to have any more pictures?|
|06-17-2013 03:02 AM|
Im only posting this to give everyone an idea of cost. I have got quite a few messages asking about costs and where to get a good deal on items and what they should expect to pay. Ill post up a retail pricelist of total parts, places that have good prices, and the costs once I reach end of stage 2 and then 3 as well.
|06-13-2013 07:27 PM|
I don't much care for JKs, but I'm amazed at how much different it looks and you spent basically nothing doing it, well done.
Looks good and keep the mods coming.
|06-13-2013 07:20 PM|
|ESP||Nice build thread. The post above that was supposed to show the TF spacers from the side isn't showing?|
|06-13-2013 06:56 PM|
You will then insert the rear window first. Begin at the very end and you will hear a clicking sound. MAKE SURE YOU HEAR THE CLICK. You then slide the top down through the groove until it is centered into the channel .
Now you will install the sides. Begin with the top zippers above the doors. And ONLY zip the first 2 inches of the zipper to get them started. You will then do the rear window zippers 2 inches as well
After they are started, you will install the window sections around the door channels. Make sure they are completely rolled around the door surround and in the channel.
Next you install the lower rail tabs like an original soft top uses.(sorry no pic of this step. )
Lastly after all the door channels and tub seam channel tabs are secured you will slowly go around and zip the windows closed. Be sure to not force it or you can and will bust a seam!!! If you hit much resistance let the material sit and relax. Because it was getting late/dark and the material cooled off, I had to wait until the next morning to finish one of the zippers.
|06-13-2013 06:55 PM|
Next you will need to install the pivot bars to the header. You will unscrew the material to allow access to the bar mounting holes
You then insert the bar with the clip pin on the inside of the top and align the pre-existing holes in the bar to the header.
I forgot to take the pictures, but you will grab the installed bars and flip the header over and install two more screws(just like pictured above) but in the back side of the header in the pre-existing holes.
You will then re-install the original fabric tabs with original screws.
Next you will install the foam seals provided. The youtube video and instructions were not too clear, but I believe this is how it should look.
It is now time to begin installing the top onto the Jeep. Take the fabric and place it on to the hood of your jeep. You will then install the pivot arms into the door surround bracket you installed in the beginning.
Now install the middle bow bar into the sleeve. Make sure it is centered and then install the c-clip provided in the kit to secure it into place.
Now lift the bar up and into the u-bracket that is in the header.
Next, flip the remaining material over your jeep to install the tensioner line/spring into the front hole. Before doing this you will want to flip the front portion of the top back to allow slack. The line will go under the screw, then over the header and under the bracket. This was a very tough install for me, and I don’t have fat fingers, so I used needle nose pliers for this step.
You will then slide the bow though the rear sleeve, then through the far back bracket. AFTER it is through and under all of this you will install the retaining clips that are already on the top to secure into place.
Next thread the supplied straps and clips into the buckle on the top. You will then insert the clip into the factory holes in your roof/B pillar cross section.
Now flip the front section of the top back down into place and ONLY attach the header clamps. DO NOT clamp them down all the way. Doing so will make your install a real PITA!
|06-13-2013 06:55 PM|
Bestop Trektop NX Diamond Series
My girlfriend did some great recon on me to get the best anniversary gift I could imagine! She knows I spend more time tinkering with my Jeep and reading on forums than anything else, and she’s always sitting beside me as I am reading my pm's from people and responding to questions on my threads. Well in her brilliantness she created a fake screenname on one of the forums, sent me a pm acting like a noob saying “he” really liked my build and was wanting my advice on soft tops. I sent a lengthy reply covering 5 that I liked and disliked from what I have seen/owned/played with. I ended that with the fact that I was looking to purchase a Bestop Trektop NX Diamond Series and would be putting up a little review and write-up when I do…well what showed up at my door yesterday…you guessed it!
So I got my Jeep naked for the first time by removing the hard top
The first step to installing this is to install the door surrounds. These are simple enough and install in pre-existing holes in the rear tub of the Jeep. Start from the rear door surround first, making sure that the seals are not being “bunched up” and that the surround sits perfectly into the seals.
After the rear is in place you will install one of the long bolts into the rear secure hole.
Next is the front door surround. Same as before, make sure the seals are not being bunched and install the very front long bolt
Last step in installing the door surrounds is the pivot bar bracket the mounts where the front and rear surround secures together. You will notice the bracket is molded and fits perfectly into place if you have it on the right side. Once in place use the remaining small screw to finish the door surrounds
Next you will unzip the rear cage covers to access the factory bolts. You will use these bolts as the rear bracket mounting points and they require a 13mm wrench for removal.
You will line the upper front bolt bracket up and with a utility knife make a small cut just enough that the bracket slides through. IT WILL NOT FIT INTO THE DOOR CHANNELS! I spent 20 minutes flipping and switching the brackets thinking they were supposed to fit securely into the door surrounds.
You will do the same with the smaller rear bracket on the lower cage bolt.
Now you will take the two bows and install them into the door surround brackets. These are the two bows that says front and back WITH the black feet at the end. You will install these with the paper tape facing up and remove the tape after install. There is no residue left behind, the tape is stricktly protective.
Next you install the rear tailgate bar clips. If you start from the rear clip(inside the jeep) and press/roll it forward, they will just snap in.
|05-16-2013 04:44 PM|
DIY JK Vacuum Relocation
So when I initially did my EVO 1/4 pounder front bumper, I very temporarily rigged up the vacuum canister. All JK's from 2012+ will require this if you are installing the EVO or some other high clearance front bumpers. I later, after seeing the prices of relocation kits between 60 and 120 bucks, decided to fab up something cheap! Here was my solution.
Total Parts list from Ace Hardware
2- 1.25" x 2" angled truss clips @ $0.79 each
2- 3/8" fender washers @ $0.25 each
1- 3/8" Hex bolt @ $0.45
1- 3/8" nut @ $0.12
2- 3/8" lock washers @ $0.20
1- bag of #24 1.25" bolts and nuts @ $1.18 (only used 2)
Total Cost = $4.23
First I measured and marked (2) 1.25"x2" angled truss clips for drilling and bending
Drilled a 3/8 hole in the clip for mounting a hex-bolt through
I used the preexisting frame hole to mount it. This is the hole just below the front body mount. On both sides I used a 3/8" fender washer and lock washer as well as the 3/8" bolt and nut
I then used a table vice to clamp and bend the second truss clip to clear the winch in the front, then to bend up and over the mount for the old swaybar guard/lower air dam mount. I bent this tightly as to "clamp down" and secure itself on install. I had to use a hammer to tap it down onto the frame bracket.
Once the two brackets were installed I mounted the Vacuum to the tabs using size #24 1.25" bolts and nuts. Trust me, you will want to do this before you install your winch. The tolerances are a complete PITA and you have to be a contortionist to place the nuts in the screws.
This is the front mount
The back mount
Sorry the pics are not the best, I did it with the bumper already installed and it's very tight in there for a camera.
|05-15-2013 11:05 AM|
I dont think I left enough plastic to do your molding tip. But thats a great tip that ill pass on
|05-15-2013 10:07 AM|
I didn't have to do any modifying of the sway bar motor when I relocated mine. It was a simple unbolt, spin around, insert new bolt.
Are you reusing the bolt? That may be why. I bought the Metalcloak bolt and spacer kit to do mine.
|05-15-2013 09:59 AM|
Good job on the fender cutting, it you plan on finishing them off with some door trim, you'll need to round out the corners. I tried using that same Harbor Freight pneumatic saw and this is where it ended up...
Another tip if you want to address the big gap left after you trim the liners
Heat the edge up with a hot air gun and prop a hammer along the edges. Slowly curving the plastic back.
You'll eventually get most of it flipped back and covering the hole. It won't look pretty but its better than the holes and protects hoses and wires from the elements
|05-15-2013 09:53 AM|
I have had a few questions about the swaybar relocation. I am terrible at descriptions so I used my crappy paint skills to help me. If you see in the pic below the #1 tab(original mounting location) on of the swaybar housing is thin. Its sole purpose is to attach as the anchor point of the housing to keep it from spinning freely. The #2 spot is a hole that has a bolt in it from the factory and holds the housing together. The reason you will need to drill this hole is because #1 hole bolt that you will now be inserting into the #2 hole has a short threaded section and the body of the bolt(In the circle) is larger. The larger bolt body will stop you from being able to thread it completely into the swaybar housing. By reaming the #2 hole by 1/2" this will allow you to thread the bolt in far enough to slip the un-threaded section in far enough to also secure the 2 parts of the housing together. (I hope this all makes sense)
|05-15-2013 09:51 AM|
So here she is, in daylight, after installing Front 1.75" spacers only.
There's still a slight rake, but I think mounting the rear carrier and spare will level it. If it then sags too much under that weight, I will then install the rear 3/4" spacers to then raise it to be more level.
|05-15-2013 09:49 AM|
|StrizzyChris||nothing too serious. Mostly just mud hills and wooded trails back home(Ohio) I just got to the san fran area and hope to meet some folks here to go wheel with soon. I know there are supposed to be some good trails about 2 hours from here near Sonora. I have a trip with 10 rigs planned for early August on the Rubicon. Im hoping to have my coilovers on before that trip though|
|05-15-2013 07:55 AM|
|corrosive||You done any wheeling with the 35's and flat fenders? Thinking I may go this route, do the rims and tires before the lift, but I know as soon as the new rubber is on I'm gonna want to take it out and play!|
|05-14-2013 04:13 AM|
So trying to get a feel for the size and mounting of the 20" LEDs. I may look for a piece of thick steel bent a few times to bolt to the bumper if there isnt a reasonably priced bracket available.
Also installed a 1.75" front spacer to help compensate for the factory rake, bumper/stinger and winch weight as well as the extra rise from running no spare or rear carrier right now. It was dark when I finished the install so no pics until the morning but It looks like I still have a slight rake. I have a 3/4" rear spacer that I thought I would use in combo, but may not even need it.
|05-13-2013 08:08 AM|
Installed the 2013 compatible Procal. Honestly couldn't tell a difference in shift points or "feel" while driving but did it ever help my MPG!!! Finally disabling the TPMS was nice as well!
Also Picked up a 20" spot/flood combo LED light bar as well as two 2x2 pillar mount spots. Just need to figure out my mounting solution for them.
|05-13-2013 07:59 AM|
So two weeks ago I moved my JK from Orange Co to San Fran to start my next contract.
This is a pic of my Sterling Tow Master Tow Bar base plate/mount on my EVO 1/4 Pounder front bumper. No signs of any stress from the move/tow. Im very happy with how stout this bumper is!
|04-26-2013 08:14 AM|
|04-25-2013 12:40 PM|
Whats up Strizzy? Looking good! Just joined up over here not long ago.
I'm about to pull the trigger on the Enforcer and 37" Nittos.
|04-25-2013 12:12 AM|
Those fenders turned out really clean, nice job.
Also it was funny... When I saw your first cutting tool I thought "Wow how cute, what a neat little cutting tool". Well, apparently it was too neat and too little because it did nothing for you lol.
|04-24-2013 10:43 PM|
|04-24-2013 09:08 PM|
|04-24-2013 08:47 PM|
|ThomasJKU||Hey Stizzy. Looks good. It doesn't look like the rake is too bad with no lift and a bumper and winch. I'm going to follow this path also. What are your plans for rear bumper. I like the EVO D rings and none.|
|04-24-2013 08:12 PM|
Installed my stinger yesterday in a few spare minutes i had while packing for my move.
Also Painted my fender-wells black
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