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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-04-2013 10:45 AM
Hokieneer How well do those keep the mud and rock spray off the doors?
06-26-2013 07:20 PM
Hokieneer Sweet! those look awesome, I am thinking that may be my next jeep purchase thanks for the pics!
06-26-2013 07:09 PM
StrizzyChris Got pretty busy with work and some household stuff...but here are some more pics as requested. I used a standard skinny pen to use as reference of how close the tolerances are for fit and finish. Its truely a great product!





06-22-2013 03:07 PM
Hokieneer
Quote:
Originally Posted by StrizzyChris View Post

I have a lot more, but I am on my phone right now. I'll post more up when I wake up (I work 3rd's)
Sweet Sounds good!
06-22-2013 10:17 AM
StrizzyChris
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hokieneer View Post
Hey Strizzy, Great build! how are you liking the LoD Sliders? happen to have any more pictures?
I have a lot more, but I am on my phone right now. I'll post more up when I wake up (I work 3rd's)
06-21-2013 07:43 AM
Hokieneer Hey Strizzy, Great build! how are you liking the LoD Sliders? happen to have any more pictures?
06-17-2013 02:02 AM
StrizzyChris
Quote:
Originally Posted by O_M_Jeep View Post
I don't much care for JKs, but I'm amazed at how much different it looks and you spent basically nothing doing it, well done.

Looks good and keep the mods coming.
Thanks! But I wish my girl saw it as I spent nothing I have saved a lot on labor(only paid a family friend $50 to weld my C-gussets) by doing everything myself, but to be honest I have spent quite a bit to this point. I did a tally, and of the parts I installed, if you pay prices like northridge and quadratec, you are looking at $5650 on the parts I have installed to this point, not including shipping and tax. And $12650 of total parts(no labor) I have purchased and have not yet installed. Of course I bought some items used and on sales so Im not that invested.

Im only posting this to give everyone an idea of cost. I have got quite a few messages asking about costs and where to get a good deal on items and what they should expect to pay. Ill post up a retail pricelist of total parts, places that have good prices, and the costs once I reach end of stage 2 and then 3 as well.
06-13-2013 06:27 PM
O_M_Jeep I don't much care for JKs, but I'm amazed at how much different it looks and you spent basically nothing doing it, well done.

Looks good and keep the mods coming.
06-13-2013 06:20 PM
ESP Nice build thread. The post above that was supposed to show the TF spacers from the side isn't showing?
06-13-2013 05:56 PM
StrizzyChris You will then insert the rear window first. Begin at the very end and you will hear a clicking sound. MAKE SURE YOU HEAR THE CLICK. You then slide the top down through the groove until it is centered into the channel .



Now you will install the sides. Begin with the top zippers above the doors. And ONLY zip the first 2 inches of the zipper to get them started. You will then do the rear window zippers 2 inches as well


After they are started, you will install the window sections around the door channels. Make sure they are completely rolled around the door surround and in the channel.


Next you install the lower rail tabs like an original soft top uses.(sorry no pic of this step. )

Lastly after all the door channels and tub seam channel tabs are secured you will slowly go around and zip the windows closed. Be sure to not force it or you can and will bust a seam!!! If you hit much resistance let the material sit and relax. Because it was getting late/dark and the material cooled off, I had to wait until the next morning to finish one of the zippers.



06-13-2013 05:55 PM
StrizzyChris Next you will need to install the pivot bars to the header. You will unscrew the material to allow access to the bar mounting holes



You then insert the bar with the clip pin on the inside of the top and align the pre-existing holes in the bar to the header.
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I forgot to take the pictures, but you will grab the installed bars and flip the header over and install two more screws(just like pictured above) but in the back side of the header in the pre-existing holes.

You will then re-install the original fabric tabs with original screws.


Next you will install the foam seals provided. The youtube video and instructions were not too clear, but I believe this is how it should look.


It is now time to begin installing the top onto the Jeep. Take the fabric and place it on to the hood of your jeep. You will then install the pivot arms into the door surround bracket you installed in the beginning.



Now install the middle bow bar into the sleeve. Make sure it is centered and then install the c-clip provided in the kit to secure it into place.



Now lift the bar up and into the u-bracket that is in the header.


Next, flip the remaining material over your jeep to install the tensioner line/spring into the front hole. Before doing this you will want to flip the front portion of the top back to allow slack. The line will go under the screw, then over the header and under the bracket. This was a very tough install for me, and I don’t have fat fingers, so I used needle nose pliers for this step.


You will then slide the bow though the rear sleeve, then through the far back bracket. AFTER it is through and under all of this you will install the retaining clips that are already on the top to secure into place.


Next thread the supplied straps and clips into the buckle on the top. You will then insert the clip into the factory holes in your roof/B pillar cross section.


Now flip the front section of the top back down into place and ONLY attach the header clamps. DO NOT clamp them down all the way. Doing so will make your install a real PITA!
06-13-2013 05:55 PM
StrizzyChris
Bestop Trektop NX Diamond Series

My girlfriend did some great recon on me to get the best anniversary gift I could imagine! She knows I spend more time tinkering with my Jeep and reading on forums than anything else, and she’s always sitting beside me as I am reading my pm's from people and responding to questions on my threads. Well in her brilliantness she created a fake screenname on one of the forums, sent me a pm acting like a noob saying “he” really liked my build and was wanting my advice on soft tops. I sent a lengthy reply covering 5 that I liked and disliked from what I have seen/owned/played with. I ended that with the fact that I was looking to purchase a Bestop Trektop NX Diamond Series and would be putting up a little review and write-up when I do…well what showed up at my door yesterday…you guessed it!


So I got my Jeep naked for the first time by removing the hard top


The first step to installing this is to install the door surrounds. These are simple enough and install in pre-existing holes in the rear tub of the Jeep. Start from the rear door surround first, making sure that the seals are not being “bunched up” and that the surround sits perfectly into the seals.

After the rear is in place you will install one of the long bolts into the rear secure hole.


Next is the front door surround. Same as before, make sure the seals are not being bunched and install the very front long bolt


Last step in installing the door surrounds is the pivot bar bracket the mounts where the front and rear surround secures together. You will notice the bracket is molded and fits perfectly into place if you have it on the right side. Once in place use the remaining small screw to finish the door surrounds


Next you will unzip the rear cage covers to access the factory bolts. You will use these bolts as the rear bracket mounting points and they require a 13mm wrench for removal.


You will line the upper front bolt bracket up and with a utility knife make a small cut just enough that the bracket slides through. IT WILL NOT FIT INTO THE DOOR CHANNELS! I spent 20 minutes flipping and switching the brackets thinking they were supposed to fit securely into the door surrounds.



You will do the same with the smaller rear bracket on the lower cage bolt.


Now you will take the two bows and install them into the door surround brackets. These are the two bows that says front and back WITH the black feet at the end. You will install these with the paper tape facing up and remove the tape after install. There is no residue left behind, the tape is stricktly protective.





Next you install the rear tailgate bar clips. If you start from the rear clip(inside the jeep) and press/roll it forward, they will just snap in.
05-16-2013 03:44 PM
StrizzyChris
DIY JK Vacuum Relocation

So when I initially did my EVO 1/4 pounder front bumper, I very temporarily rigged up the vacuum canister. All JK's from 2012+ will require this if you are installing the EVO or some other high clearance front bumpers. I later, after seeing the prices of relocation kits between 60 and 120 bucks, decided to fab up something cheap! Here was my solution.

Total Parts list from Ace Hardware
2- 1.25" x 2" angled truss clips @ $0.79 each
2- 3/8" fender washers @ $0.25 each
1- 3/8" Hex bolt @ $0.45
1- 3/8" nut @ $0.12
2- 3/8" lock washers @ $0.20
1- bag of #24 1.25" bolts and nuts @ $1.18 (only used 2)
Total Cost = $4.23

First I measured and marked (2) 1.25"x2" angled truss clips for drilling and bending



Drilled a 3/8 hole in the clip for mounting a hex-bolt through





I used the preexisting frame hole to mount it. This is the hole just below the front body mount. On both sides I used a 3/8" fender washer and lock washer as well as the 3/8" bolt and nut







I then used a table vice to clamp and bend the second truss clip to clear the winch in the front, then to bend up and over the mount for the old swaybar guard/lower air dam mount. I bent this tightly as to "clamp down" and secure itself on install. I had to use a hammer to tap it down onto the frame bracket.





Once the two brackets were installed I mounted the Vacuum to the tabs using size #24 1.25" bolts and nuts. Trust me, you will want to do this before you install your winch. The tolerances are a complete PITA and you have to be a contortionist to place the nuts in the screws.

This is the front mount


The back mount


Sorry the pics are not the best, I did it with the bumper already installed and it's very tight in there for a camera.
05-15-2013 10:05 AM
StrizzyChris
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matador View Post
Good job on the fender cutting, it you plan on finishing them off with some door trim, you'll need to round out the corners.

Another tip if you want to address the big gap left after you trim the liners



Heat the edge up with a hot air gun and prop a hammer along the edges. Slowly curving the plastic back.


You'll eventually get most of it flipped back and covering the hole. It won't look pretty but its better than the holes and protects hoses and wires from the elements
haha yeah that tool is not very helpful. it did help with the tight spot trimming of small plastic tabs, but other than that it was worthless.

I dont think I left enough plastic to do your molding tip. But thats a great tip that ill pass on

Quote:
Originally Posted by kramer2k View Post
I didn't have to do any modifying of the sway bar motor when I relocated mine. It was a simple unbolt, spin around, insert new bolt.

Are you reusing the bolt? That may be why. I bought the Metalcloak bolt and spacer kit to do mine.
Yes I reused the bolt so that is why I had to drill it out. Its free so I chose that method. I used a 1/2" drill bit and tapped it to 1/2" deep since that collared bolt would bottom out to early. I know some people just screw it in until it stops and call it a day, but this way it will still threaded through the two parts securing of the housing.
05-15-2013 09:07 AM
kramer2k I didn't have to do any modifying of the sway bar motor when I relocated mine. It was a simple unbolt, spin around, insert new bolt.

Are you reusing the bolt? That may be why. I bought the Metalcloak bolt and spacer kit to do mine.
05-15-2013 08:59 AM
Matador Good job on the fender cutting, it you plan on finishing them off with some door trim, you'll need to round out the corners. I tried using that same Harbor Freight pneumatic saw and this is where it ended up...



Another tip if you want to address the big gap left after you trim the liners



Heat the edge up with a hot air gun and prop a hammer along the edges. Slowly curving the plastic back.


You'll eventually get most of it flipped back and covering the hole. It won't look pretty but its better than the holes and protects hoses and wires from the elements
05-15-2013 08:53 AM
StrizzyChris I have had a few questions about the swaybar relocation. I am terrible at descriptions so I used my crappy paint skills to help me. If you see in the pic below the #1 tab(original mounting location) on of the swaybar housing is thin. Its sole purpose is to attach as the anchor point of the housing to keep it from spinning freely. The #2 spot is a hole that has a bolt in it from the factory and holds the housing together. The reason you will need to drill this hole is because #1 hole bolt that you will now be inserting into the #2 hole has a short threaded section and the body of the bolt(In the circle) is larger. The larger bolt body will stop you from being able to thread it completely into the swaybar housing. By reaming the #2 hole by 1/2" this will allow you to thread the bolt in far enough to slip the un-threaded section in far enough to also secure the 2 parts of the housing together. (I hope this all makes sense)

05-15-2013 08:51 AM
StrizzyChris So here she is, in daylight, after installing Front 1.75" spacers only.



There's still a slight rake, but I think mounting the rear carrier and spare will level it. If it then sags too much under that weight, I will then install the rear 3/4" spacers to then raise it to be more level.
05-15-2013 08:49 AM
StrizzyChris nothing too serious. Mostly just mud hills and wooded trails back home(Ohio) I just got to the san fran area and hope to meet some folks here to go wheel with soon. I know there are supposed to be some good trails about 2 hours from here near Sonora. I have a trip with 10 rigs planned for early August on the Rubicon. Im hoping to have my coilovers on before that trip though
05-15-2013 06:55 AM
corrosive You done any wheeling with the 35's and flat fenders? Thinking I may go this route, do the rims and tires before the lift, but I know as soon as the new rubber is on I'm gonna want to take it out and play!
05-14-2013 03:13 AM
StrizzyChris So trying to get a feel for the size and mounting of the 20" LEDs. I may look for a piece of thick steel bent a few times to bolt to the bumper if there isnt a reasonably priced bracket available.





Also installed a 1.75" front spacer to help compensate for the factory rake, bumper/stinger and winch weight as well as the extra rise from running no spare or rear carrier right now. It was dark when I finished the install so no pics until the morning but It looks like I still have a slight rake. I have a 3/4" rear spacer that I thought I would use in combo, but may not even need it.

05-13-2013 07:08 AM
StrizzyChris Installed the 2013 compatible Procal. Honestly couldn't tell a difference in shift points or "feel" while driving but did it ever help my MPG!!! Finally disabling the TPMS was nice as well!

Also Picked up a 20" spot/flood combo LED light bar as well as two 2x2 pillar mount spots. Just need to figure out my mounting solution for them.
05-13-2013 06:59 AM
StrizzyChris So two weeks ago I moved my JK from Orange Co to San Fran to start my next contract.

This is a pic of my Sterling Tow Master Tow Bar base plate/mount on my EVO 1/4 Pounder front bumper. No signs of any stress from the move/tow. Im very happy with how stout this bumper is!
04-26-2013 07:14 AM
StrizzyChris
Quote:
Originally Posted by legitposter View Post
Those fenders turned out really clean, nice job.

Also it was funny... When I saw your first cutting tool I thought "Wow how cute, what a neat little cutting tool". Well, apparently it was too neat and too little because it did nothing for you lol.
Thanks I think it looks pretty good. I am on the fence if I will put trim mold around the edge or not. Kinda like it raw like it is now. The tool worked ok, and helped a lot when trimming the tabs off the under fender support structure. But I am not a patient person and the 3" cutting wheel ripped through the plastic very quickly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AnimalJK View Post
Whats up Strizzy? Looking good! Just joined up over here not long ago.

I'm about to pull the trigger on the Enforcer and 37" Nittos.
The enforcer kit is a heck of a setup, you will be very happy. I know of a few guys who run it, and they have no needs or desires to upgrade. That and 37's will put you in beast mode!
04-25-2013 11:40 AM
AnimalJK Whats up Strizzy? Looking good! Just joined up over here not long ago.

I'm about to pull the trigger on the Enforcer and 37" Nittos.
04-24-2013 11:12 PM
legitposter Those fenders turned out really clean, nice job.

Also it was funny... When I saw your first cutting tool I thought "Wow how cute, what a neat little cutting tool". Well, apparently it was too neat and too little because it did nothing for you lol.
04-24-2013 09:43 PM
StrizzyChris
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasJKU View Post
Hey Stizzy. Looks good. It doesn't look like the rake is too bad with no lift and a bumper and winch. I'm going to follow this path also. What are your plans for rear bumper. I like the EVO D rings and none.
Thanks! I just bought, but havent yet installed, an OR-Fab Tire Carrier that looks brand new but used for a STEAL of a price! I also like the EVO d-ring kit, but want to see how the stock bumper looks with that carrier. I may keep the bumper on if i like the look but also since it will give some extra protection to the tub corners and carrier when coming of ledges.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowerumble View Post
Well that made a big difference didn't it. Cant wait to see the lift!
You and me both! I had a guy offer his garage and assistance to me(since in im Cali but home is in OH) but I am relocating from Laguna area to San Fran area. I hope to make friends that like beer and food up there for exchange for wrench assistance
04-24-2013 08:08 PM
Lowerumble
Quote:
Originally Posted by StrizzyChris View Post

Also Painted my fender-wells black











Well that made a big difference didn't it. Cant wait to see the lift!
04-24-2013 07:47 PM
ThomasJKU Hey Stizzy. Looks good. It doesn't look like the rake is too bad with no lift and a bumper and winch. I'm going to follow this path also. What are your plans for rear bumper. I like the EVO D rings and none.
04-24-2013 07:12 PM
StrizzyChris Installed my stinger yesterday in a few spare minutes i had while packing for my move.



Also Painted my fender-wells black











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