|07-08-2013 02:01 PM|
|kappaknight||The Rubi lockers work just fine. Like aftermarket lockers, it will get you where you want to go unless it breaks, or if you're climbing a cliff.|
|07-08-2013 01:24 PM|
|07-08-2013 12:53 PM|
Don't know how fast the ARB or similar engage or disengage. If you can lock on 4high that would be beneficial when crossing heavy muddy waters on 4hi to get some speed.
|07-08-2013 12:43 PM|
I believe a lot of folks misread the post. He's not debating Sport vs. Rubicon. He's debating ARB Lockers or similar versus Rubicon Lockers.
I have no idea the correct answer, but interested in the opinions. I would assume it's strength and how they engage.
|07-08-2013 09:51 AM|
Here is mine- I hope people can see it. It shows what real 35s look like with a 3" lift (2" Synergy springs). hold on...trying to paste it properly.
|07-08-2013 12:46 AM|
Get the Rubi. You mentioned not doing a lot of hard core rock crawling and not going larger than 33's, so I just don't see the need for a Sport + aftermarket lockers.
I bought the Sport not realizing I would be doing a lot of wheeling. I swapped out the front D30 for a Rubi D44 + put an ARB locker in the rear. I would've been better off getting the Rubi in the first place.
The main difference you would get with aftermarket lockers (like ARB) is that they are a bit stronger + more positive lock and unlock.
Plus, the Rubi transfer case, being lower, is better for wheeling.
|07-07-2013 11:48 PM|
|corvallisbattery||I got the rubi because I wanted something that would go anywhere I had the guts to take it (did today), yet maintain the factory warranty as I won't be doing any mods besides bumpers and appearance.|
|07-07-2013 11:22 PM|
I usually find that this type of question is hard to find an unbiased opinion...rubi owners say, always get the rubi...sport owners say its a waste of money. That being said (and I went sport), I was conflicted as u r now when I was deciding to buy mine. I knew I wanted a lift and 35s. I do know the diffs. I chose a sport because it was, in my opinion, the most efficient way to get exactly what I wanted. I bought a fairly basic sport for 23k and added about 7k for lift, tires, wheels lockers and such (installed). A 2010 rubi was about the same...without lift et al. The only things that I am missing (don't care for rock crawling xfer case btw) is the front D44. If I blow out my 30, I will throw on a good used one, but I don't power through everything i c like many! Oh, and the rubi hood decal! I have friends with the e discos and have nothing but problems, so that is a negative in my opinion. Suspension is totally aftermarket now. Gears would need regear anyway. Wheels/tires aftermarket now. So, it came down to transfer case. Again, I have never needed the extreme slow mo in my many years of wheeling, so that was not worth the $ diff...to some it is the best thing about the rubi, just not for me.
So, for 30k would u rather have a stock rubi (which I do admit will go just about anywhere u point it!), or a Sport with a 4" Rubicon Express lift with Mickey Thompson Sidebiters on BFG KM2 35s, with lockers? Entirely up to what YOU want. Good luck with whichever way u go...there is no wrong answer here btw!
|07-07-2013 11:08 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||The Question is how big do you plan to go with tires. Up to 37s moderate wheeling go rubi. Over that go base model and build|
|07-07-2013 10:41 PM|
|07-07-2013 10:14 PM|
FWIW, planning on going automatic/4.10's/stock tires until they are a bit worn then going to 33's. Never wheeled anywhere that the stockers haven't worked, and while I get most people end up with 35's, I don't think I am gonna need 'em, and I actually don't love the look with 35's. Certainly, if I had to tackle bigger obstacles I would feel differently.
Respect to my 35 Jeepers.
|07-07-2013 09:45 PM|
I would say go for the Rubicon. Chances are that it will be capable for what you intend to do and if you drive it for a little bit to get a feel for it you will be getting your money's worth out of the tires and suspension if you choose to upgrade.
Also, I'd be willing to bet that the cost of tires and suspension makes a very minimal difference in the up front cost of a Rubicon vs. a Sport. The bulk of that up front end cost is in upgraded axles, transfer case, sway bar disconnects, etc. (and the Rubicon is generally optioned out better than a Sport to begin with).
Sure you can upgrade all the same components on a sport but at what cost?
Average Sport: $25K
Rubicon axles (new, for set): $6K (I believe, easily 10K if you go with better than stock axles)
Rubicon t-case: $2500 - $3500
Sway bar disco: $150
New (Rubicon size) tires (5): $1K
New suspension (Rubicon size): $1K
You're now into Rubicon price range just for the running gear.
Plus, you've got one of two options with the upgrade the Sport route. Deal with whatever it may be capable of from the factory until the warranty period is out or go with all the driveline upgrades and whatever warranty you may be able to get aftermarket (generally 12/12) up front.
|07-07-2013 09:26 PM|
|HK_Runner||I do like the electronic lockers and swaybar disconnect. I have 35s though. You may also not need to regear with 4.10s and 35s, depending on where you live. I live at 6,000 feet in Colorado and wheel anywhere form 7,000-12,000. I am finding the 4.10s a bit too annoying. 4.56 will be my next mod, but many are fine with 4.10s.|
|07-07-2013 09:18 PM|
The Rubicon has a 4:1 transfer case ratio in 4low. Others are like 2.73:1 if I remember right. It's really nice if you want a manual along with the lower 4.10 axle ratio.
If you get an auto rubicon it comes with a 3.73 axle ratio. Only on a rubicon can you upgrade to 4.10s. With the new Pentastar motor that should be good for 35" tires. So you could maybe skip a regear.
It also has a Dana 40 axle in the front vs 35. I think the axle is the same size but has more splines.
Im not a locker expert, but I would think an air locker would engage faster just from a little I have read? With the Rubicon lockers it can take a bit before they engage. Maybe 10-20'
|07-07-2013 09:00 PM|
|Rubiconpoor||Rubi lockers work well but they will NOT HOLD UP TO ABUSE. I'm on my 4th Rubi and I wheel fairly hard and have had no issues. I have known people who have blown up multiple factory lockers, usually by using to much skinny pedal and 37's.|
|07-07-2013 08:53 PM|
|jeffbab||Sorry I was half asleep and misread your post. Disregard|
|07-07-2013 08:38 PM|
Are Rubicon e-lockers the best choice?
So, I owned a TJ, and have an 08 JKU. Both of those were shared with my parents (long story) so remained mostly stock. Finally buying my own JKU, was planning on a Rubi (because I will wheel it, though not super hard core rock crawling, and because it is competent out of the box). But I've read about a lot of folks hear buying sports and "building them out". I get that you can do quick swaybar disconnects, I get that if you lift it (and chuck the stock Rubi suspension) and got with bigger tires (and so on)--there is no reason to pay the up front cost.
So finally to the question--what advantage to aftermarket lockers have over the stock Rubi lockers?