|12-08-2013 10:46 AM|
I've posted this link before (Fiberglass M416/M100 Military-style Trailer Tub Kit), those are the step-by-step instructions showing how I modified a Harbor Freight frame to the proper size to fit under my prototype military trailer.
The company that's now producing the tub kits has done a convenient PDF document with their recommended modification plan, check it out: http://dinoot.com/MSer-HF-frame.pdf
|11-19-2013 09:14 AM|
Here's a new product I found at SEMA that I think could be very interesting as a trailer accessory - it's a "bed bag" designed for use in pickup trucks, but it's a perfect size to fit in a military trailer. It's made of heavy-duty polyethylene "tarp material" and it's got a zipper around three sides of the top corner. It's very affordable (M.S.R.P. way under $100), and it folds up very small.
They gave me a sample to test in my trailers. It's small enough that it'll fit in my carry-on bag when folded up, even though when fully open it's 5.5' long, almost 4' wide and over 2' tall.
It's a great fit in an M416/M100 military trailer, here it is in my fiberglass replica:
A few other ways to protect cargo from the elements just for comparison...
A snap-on tonneau cover, about $300:
A fiberglass hinged hard cover:
|11-16-2013 02:05 PM|
Here's a fiberglass tub panel set just out of the molds, this one has a tailgate end on it.
For comparison, here's one with two solid end panels just like the original M416:
Because the tub is modular and the panels bolt together, tubs can be assembled with two solid ends, one tailgate and and one solid, or two tailgate ends.
|11-12-2013 11:04 AM|
Scott Chaney of Compact Camping Concepts just posted this over on the Trailer Adventuring Forum (Fiberglass M416/M100 Military-style Trailer Tub Kit
Full disclosure: I am not an employee of Compact Camping.
|10-27-2013 07:38 AM|
I just design and build these things as a hobby, I'm not in business to sell them. But I have licensed the designs of both my military trailer and my Jeep-tub trailer kits to a company that's selling the kits. The Jeep-tub trailer kit has been available for over a year now and dozens have been sold and built, and they tell me they'll be ready to take orders for the military kit before the end of next week. Their web site is Jeep Trailer Dinoot Lightweight Fiberglass Tub Kit Dinoot Trailers - Dinoot Trailers Dinoot Trailers.
|10-26-2013 11:06 PM|
Want a camping trailer and not to spend a lot of money. This looks very good and promising. You have a web site? I will be following.
|10-17-2013 08:14 AM|
The company's pre-production trailer on its maiden voyage...
|10-13-2013 03:56 PM|
You'll also want to get fenders that are wide enough to cover your choice of tires; the fenders on the trailer below are 13" wide and they more than cover the Rubicon wheel/tire combo:
One other consideration... if you plan to run larger tires on your JK and your trailer, say 33's or above, some people think it's a better strategy to upgrade the Harbor Freight 2000-lb. capacity axle to a 3500-lb. axle to deal with that size/weight tire. It doesn't cost much more than a pair of spacers actually, you can get a complete 3500-lb. axle with 5-on-5 bolt circle hubs to match the JK for $127.99 (3500 lb Axles - Trailer Axles, Spring Mounted), and you can get it a little bit wider than the HF axle so you wouldn't need spacers for wheels with that backspacing. Here's a fiberglass Jeep-tub trailer with a Harbor Freight frame, the owner has upgraded the axle to a 3500-lb. axle and he's running 33's. It was a bolt-in replacement for the HF axle, and the same axle could be used under the military trailer:
There are no special challenges in painting fiberglass and getting a very high quality finish.
|10-13-2013 01:35 PM|
If I wanted to replace the wheels with stock rubicon wheel and tire combo, will there be enough clearance or should I replace the mud terrain tires with regular street tires? I am interested in keeping the same look on all my wheels.
Is there any challenges in painting fiberglass?
|10-13-2013 10:57 AM|
The test build trailer with the first parts out of the production molds is now ready for some road testing... fenders have been painted, lights have been installed, front jack/wheel in place...
|10-11-2013 08:09 AM|
Weighing in... the trailer as shown in the photo below weighs 282 lbs. The modified Harbor Freight frame weighs 203 lbs, the 5/8" plywood floor is 33 lbs. and fiberglass tub itself is 46 lbs.
Equipped as shown in the next photo, with and 205/75-15 tires on Jeep wheels it's probably around 350 lbs. ready to roll, well within easy towing range for a 4 cyl. vehicle.
Most people will add other features and gear which would raise the weight, like a tongue jack, maybe a cargo rack on the tongue, maybe even larger tires and fenders, so everyone's finished/equipped weight will vary, but starting at 282 lbs. stripped is a really good place to be.
|10-10-2013 06:24 AM|
Here's a shot of the first trailer build out of the production molds as it's progressing, it's now got fenders, and larger tires on Jeep wheels.
The fenders are a good match for the original WWII/Korean War era M100 trailer fenders:
|10-09-2013 06:06 AM|
I licensed the Safari Cab design to Gr8Tops. You can check with them about availability: GR8TOPS Half Hardtops for Jeeps.
|10-08-2013 09:50 PM|
Is there any chance that you might market the safari hard top? If I were to get a hard top again one like this would be perfect.
|10-08-2013 07:42 PM|
|jscherb||Fiberglass M416/M100 Military-style Trailer Tub Kit|
|10-08-2013 07:28 PM|
|kjg26||Awesome. Thx. I'm picking a HF frame up soon. So excited!|
|10-08-2013 07:14 PM|
|10-08-2013 07:08 PM|
|kjg26||Sorry, I was unclear. the rack frame. The one on top of the trailer box.|
|10-08-2013 05:53 PM|
|10-08-2013 05:49 PM|
|10-08-2013 03:49 PM|
|kjg26||Also, is the frame welded together or bolted together?|
|10-08-2013 03:17 PM|
|kjg26||Will the production covers have the reinforced points like yours? The points for a rack|
|10-08-2013 12:17 PM|
Here's a photo of the rack off the trailer, I've circled where I've welded nuts in place. They're on the underside of the cross-rails of the rack, and spaced to line up with the mounting holes in the tent.
There are also four holes in the bottom rails of the rack that are used to secure the rack to the cover. They're at the same spacing as the top rail holes, so they're directly underneath where I've circled the nuts.
And here's a shot of the trailer without the rack in place. The four screws are in place to seal the holes to the blind nuts when the rack isn't bolted in place:
|10-08-2013 10:28 AM|
|kjg26||The rack comes completely off for the roof top tent right? The tent bolts to the blind nuts..? Where are the nuts welded on? The bottom rack? Top rack?|
|10-08-2013 10:05 AM|
Here's a few photos taken when I was building it.
The basic rack in place, still in the original bed frame blue.
I also had enough bed frame metal left to make bolt-on extensions, these are handy for carrying 4x8 sheets:
I designed the extensions so that simple clamps could be used to secure 4x8 sheets for transport:
My Harbor Freight based rack basket also bolts on to the rack using the nuts welded into the rack:
And those same nuts are used to secure the tent to the rack:
If these photos don't provide the info you're looking for let me know and I'll try to provide more detail.
|10-08-2013 09:55 AM|
|kjg26||You posted a mini rack using an old bed frame. Can you post a link to that?|
|10-08-2013 06:49 AM|
You could get more creative using these canopy parts... here's a tarp cover frame for a trailer - the difference between this one and the rack I posted earlier is that the corners are 120-degree rise corners, and the cross-tubes have an arch bent in them to crown the roof so water can run off.
Using a tarp, a grommet kit and some zip-ties, a decent cover could be make up pretty quickly:
|10-08-2013 06:48 AM|
"Overhead" racks for trailers seem to be pretty popular - whether it's to carry kayaks or canoes, extra cargo or maybe a roof-top syle tent, an overhead rack can provide access to the storage space inside the trailer while at the same time accomodating large cargo. Here's some few examples on both military style and Jeep-tub trailers:
I've drawn a number of overhear rack concepts for both the Jeep-tub and military style trailers and posted them in this thread, but most of the ones I've drawn before, and the ones pictured above, require some fabrication, and specifically welding, that an average DIY-er might not have access to.
I've been thinking about ways to DIY-build an overhear rack for a trailer that wouldn't require welding or any advanced fabrication skills or techniques. So here is one...
Tent canopies like the ones you can rent for backyard for parties or you might see set up as outdoor Jeep show vendor booths are mostly based on standard fittings that accept common sizes of inexpensive tubing, here's a sample set:
They're commonly available to work with 1" EMT (electrical conduit, 1 3/8" outside diamater), and several larger sizes of chain-link fence tubing, both of which are inexpensive and strong. It would be easy and economical to build an overhead rack using these fittings and 1" EMT (or larger tubing if your strength needs dictated). Here's an example:
I've done the fittings in yellow; this one uses 4 "flat" corners, 4 tees, and four feet, and everything's connected with 1" EMT (in gray).
The rack would be secured to the trailer frame using angle brackets bolted to the frame that the feet could bolt to. Depending on the feet used and the size of the angle brackets, the base of the feet might need to be trimmed a bit because as designed, they're large enough to sit on the ground without sinking in; for this application the size of the base could be smaller.
The fittings come with an eye bolt which gets screwed against the tube that's inserted into the fitting, which is fine for a static tent, but for a rack that'll be subjected to the vibrations of the road or trail, a more positive lock would be a good idea, so a jam nut setup could be used:
THe fittings are pretty affordable, and there's a wide range to pick from so many different configurations of rack could be made. Here are a few sources: Canopy Kits, Carports, Poly Tarps and Frame Fittings and Canopy Masters: Canopies, Tarps, Tents, Awnings and Accessories, and here are some example fitting types:
The fittings generally come in four sizes (Canopy Kits, Carports, Poly Tarps and Frame Fittings seems to have the widest range), so you can pick a size appropriate to your intended load:
- 1 inch EMT (electrical conduit, 1 3/8 o.d.)
- 1 3/8 inch chain link fence tubing
- 1 5/8 inch chain link fence tubing
- 1 7/8 inch chain link fence tubing
The larger sizes should be able to support any load that would be safe to drive with (trailer center-of-gravity issues considered ).
|10-07-2013 08:35 AM|
I honestly don't see a problem putting a 650 pound four wheeler on there. There's probably ways of reinforcing it as well I imagine to spread the weight out a little better. Would be perfect to take a four wheeler to the off road park with for a weekend, pack the trailer with your supplies and you're golden.
I'm just brain storming because these look like awesome trailers. Just trying to think of ways to squeeze every possible use out of them.
|10-07-2013 08:07 AM|
The lib and tub are designed to support an occupied roof-top-tent, which could be 600+ pounds:
Obviously it's not occupied in this next photo, but it shows the strength of the cover, hinges and struts:
Would that be strong enough for you or did you have something heavier in mind?
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