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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-03-2009 02:15 AM
punkafi888 ok, try burping the system. pull the cap off, when its cooled down. start it with the cap off and fill when it well burps. for some reason i have noticed that a lot of the 4.0l blocks hold a lot of air. another thing to note is that the 4.0 uses that same thermostat as the 5.7l small block chevy. its easy to get a high flow thermostat. you can also add a water wetter. cant remember who makes it think it was red line. but i used it when we used to drag race. is has a far better thermal conductivity than water. my pore jeep sees temps from 110 to -12. since i replaced the water pump and thermostat it has never gone over 190. even at a stand still on the trail. you can pm me.
08-02-2009 02:47 PM
kik First, you definately have to connect a temperature gauge that is accurate. Alright, I'm no rocket scientist but what normally happens with a higher than normal increase in temp. like what you have in Florida the resistance through your electrical system changes as a result of your alternator. That's why it affects your temp gauge and your oil pressure gauge. They use electrical connections. You may also notice a change in your alternator gauge. That's why when it rains the outside temp drops to a level that causes a decrease in the resistance in the wiring which then causes the gauges to work more accurately, believe it or not. When was the last time your alternator was checked and/or replaced. That could be causing an electrical situation because of the increase in temperature. You might think this is crazy but have your alternator checked or replaced. You may have a diode(s) going bad. Also, the gauges in these jeeps are'nt 100% accurate. I would definately use a thermostat that is factory spec. with a 60/40 coolant mix, or, a mix that brings you to at least -20. That will help your cooling capability. Even though you probably don't use it much, you may have a clogged heater core.
08-02-2009 11:56 AM
TMac My 2000 Jeep Wrangler is doing the same thing! I've replaced thermostat, fan clutch, radiator, bypassed my heater core... What else can I do? What can it be?
06-30-2009 12:13 PM
yjwes
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreider View Post
Where to begin. I truly hope someone has an answer here. The problem is that my 94 Wrangler overheats when sitting still idling. I feel that I have replaced and heard it all, so I will tell you what all I have done and where I am at with it now. First, the obvious.... the thermostat. I originally replaced it with a 180 degree but have since moved it back to a 192 factory spec as someone said the engine will work less with it at 192. Next, I flushed the radiator. Next, I replaced the fan clutch. Next, I replaced the water pump. Next, I replaced the radiator. It is now working to the point that it is going up and down (temp), but the range is between 215 and 230, which I think is high. Also note that I live in Florida, and the days are 95 degrees anyway sometimes. I seems to run hotter during the day too. The oil is changed regularly too and the coolant is 50/50. I haven't driven it since the new radiator (except a little this evening), but with it running that hot, I am going to be scared to see what it does during the hot day. I also changed the temp sensor by the thermostat. The reason I changed the water pump is because the outer temp was extremely high when we read all the temp with a laser temp gun. We missed the radiator with the laser temp gun as we were shooting the A/C condenser. My thought now is that the system is working properly, but just running too high. I am considering putting the 180 thermostat back in or even lowering it to a 160. Thoughts on that please? My other thought was that the temp gauge is not working correctly, but I kind of think that it is since it goes up and down, etc. Someone else suggested head gasket, but I have no smoke or moisture coming out the tail pipe, no water in the oil, no oil in the water, and it does use oil (which I mean it burns it) occasionally. I also want to note that when it rains, which is a lot in Florida, the temp in the past drop almost instantly. Also, when idling, the oil pressure drops too, from about 60 psi where it normally runs, to about 30 psi, and this is when the temp usually goes up. Again, it is idling so no acceleration. Suggestions or thoughts please. Anyone need any used parts? LOL. I would say all of them are good except for the radiator, which I think needs boiled. Any and all help will be appreciated. Thank you.
u checked the temp with a laser temp gun and it is in indeed running at 230?
06-30-2009 12:05 PM
YjMopower Do you have the same level of coolant in the rad or do you have to constantly add more? did you ever try running it without the thermostat?
06-30-2009 07:12 AM
buckshot500
Quote:
Originally Posted by buckshot500 View Post
Consider this, but don't act on it just yet as you'll want to tackle this as a last resort. It can be tricky to change these plugs with the engine still in the vehicle.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/showpos...5&postcount=18

Go ahead & Google "Taurus electric fan swap" too. I haven't put mine in yet, but it's in my shed & a high priority.
Also it wouldn't hurt to put an aftermarket temp gauge in there. The kind with the capillary wire (copper/brass with thinner wire wound around it), is better than the kind with an electrical connection.





.
06-30-2009 06:44 AM
buckshot500 Consider this, but don't act on it just yet as you'll want to tackle this as a last resort. It can be tricky to change these plugs with the engine still in the vehicle.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/showpos...5&postcount=18

Go ahead & Google "Taurus electric fan swap" too. I haven't put mine in yet, but it's in my shed & a high priority.
06-30-2009 12:09 AM
dreider
Overheating Problem - Need Help!!!

Where to begin. I truly hope someone has an answer here. The problem is that my 94 Wrangler overheats when sitting still idling. I feel that I have replaced and heard it all, so I will tell you what all I have done and where I am at with it now. First, the obvious.... the thermostat. I originally replaced it with a 180 degree but have since moved it back to a 192 factory spec as someone said the engine will work less with it at 192. Next, I flushed the radiator. Next, I replaced the fan clutch. Next, I replaced the water pump. Next, I replaced the radiator. It is now working to the point that it is going up and down (temp), but the range is between 215 and 230, which I think is high. Also note that I live in Florida, and the days are 95 degrees anyway sometimes. I seems to run hotter during the day too. The oil is changed regularly too and the coolant is 50/50. I haven't driven it since the new radiator (except a little this evening), but with it running that hot, I am going to be scared to see what it does during the hot day. I also changed the temp sensor by the thermostat. The reason I changed the water pump is because the outer temp was extremely high when we read all the temp with a laser temp gun. We missed the radiator with the laser temp gun as we were shooting the A/C condenser. My thought now is that the system is working properly, but just running too high. I am considering putting the 180 thermostat back in or even lowering it to a 160. Thoughts on that please? My other thought was that the temp gauge is not working correctly, but I kind of think that it is since it goes up and down, etc. Someone else suggested head gasket, but I have no smoke or moisture coming out the tail pipe, no water in the oil, no oil in the water, and it does use oil (which I mean it burns it) occasionally. I also want to note that when it rains, which is a lot in Florida, the temp in the past drop almost instantly. Also, when idling, the oil pressure drops too, from about 60 psi where it normally runs, to about 30 psi, and this is when the temp usually goes up. Again, it is idling so no acceleration. Suggestions or thoughts please. Anyone need any used parts? LOL. I would say all of them are good except for the radiator, which I think needs boiled. Any and all help will be appreciated. Thank you.

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