|12-04-2014 04:11 PM|
|jadmt||Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource ┬╗ Jeep JK Wrangler Torque Settings|
|12-04-2014 04:07 PM|
|Hayseed_JK||I found the torque specs on the CA's. Anyone have the specs on the other torques (sway link, etc.).|
|12-04-2014 03:02 PM|
|12-04-2014 02:54 PM|
I am assuming you mean upper and lower? Can I get to the upper with it on the ground?
|08-21-2013 02:47 PM|
Finished the install on Monday. (took 2 days off work to do the Jeep mods I've been putting off while the kids were out of school) I put in the 2" leveling kit and did the short bumper mod from Rough Country.
Everyting went smooth with the budget boost, only took about 1 hour per wheel doing it by myself. I fully recommend spring compressors, I don't know how anyone could do this without them. My other main recommendation is that there is no marked indexing on the rear springs; like the spot where the end of the spring goes on the front ones. The axle is slightly off center to the spot where the spring attaches to the body so if you put the spring on a certain way it bulges. Put the end of the spring towards the back on the axle end of the spring so it bends the right way. I accidently put one on right and one on wrong, I got good enough taking it all apart it only took 30 minutes to take it apart and fix the issue. Don't have access to the pictures but will post up some soon.
Also re-torque the track bar and control arms when you are done. I was tired and got lazy after the install, so the next day it felt really loose and squishy until I tightened it all back up.
|07-12-2013 09:50 PM|
When I did my lift, it actually helped jacking up the opposite side of the front axel to get more droop on the side I was working on to get the longer spring back in.
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|07-12-2013 09:48 PM|
2) driver's side by the hoop of the track bar.
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|07-12-2013 12:45 PM|
|marslim||Best spot for Jackstands would be on the frame rails, that's how I did mine, just make sure you go high enough to allow you enough room to drop the across enough to change your springs|
|07-12-2013 10:43 AM|
I have 2 basic questions I hope someone can help with. First, in placing jack stands, what's the best/safest spot on the vehicle (front and rear)?
Second, I was looking to replace the TB bolts with the synergy upgrade ones. It looks like you get 4 bolts (2 for the front, 2 for the rear), but it also comes with a bolt for the front frame side TB bracket. Not really sure where that is.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
|07-12-2013 08:02 AM|
|07-12-2013 12:03 AM|
|fimk||ok thanks .. i appreciate the help|
|07-11-2013 11:48 PM|
You can do the same. Find a set of takeoffs from someone's rear for the front.
|07-11-2013 11:18 PM|
|fimk||This maybe off topic but do you really need the teraflex sway bars? I was planing to use a 1.5 puck in the front springs with no change to the back springs to get rid of my rake. If I do this will i need longer sway bars? (2013 jku moab and will be adding winch plates and winch)|
|07-11-2013 09:11 PM|
|07-11-2013 09:01 PM|
A full leveling kit "performance kit with coils instead of pucks" will net you at least the 2" in the front and 1" in the rear but more than likely a little bit more height. Using this type of kit with 33s will look and function great and the coils will be rated higher allowing more weight (new bumper, winch, etc) to be added without the loss experienced with spacers.
|07-11-2013 07:39 PM|
|07-11-2013 07:13 PM|
Lemme throw in another 0.2 cents here.
If you only do 1" all around and at that...1" pucks all around, you are going to sag if you add any kind of additional weight such as a new front bumper, winch or heavier tire on the rear. You'll be practically back to stock height very quickly. If your going to do a leveling kit and plan to never add anything else to your jeep regarding weight (additionally you don't wheel your jeep much) then the "spacer lift is a good option". But only installing 1" pucks all around again has a lot of limits. You may regret not just doing the full install when you have to do all of the same work for less height. This is entirely up to you though. Build it the way you want.
|07-11-2013 06:05 PM|
|07-11-2013 05:52 PM|
|TeraFlex||Agreed you are correct.|
|07-11-2013 05:49 PM|
|07-11-2013 05:47 PM|
|07-11-2013 05:41 PM|
|07-11-2013 04:27 PM|
|kjeeper10||Learn something new every day|
|07-11-2013 04:19 PM|
Nope he is correct there are 2 1" pucks in the kit that you stack ontop of each other. At such a low lift height there is no worries about stacking pucks.
Also on the topic of loosening bolts. By loosening the bolts you will also make lowering the axle to get the springs out much much easier.
|07-11-2013 04:13 PM|
"2 one inch pucks" meaning stacked ?
Was he misunderstood here ?
The point to the leveling kit is to remove the rake, but Still give a little bit of lift overall.
One can just add 1" spacers to the front. This would do the same with less height.
|07-11-2013 03:55 PM|
|TeraFlex||I suggest doing it to all arms. I used to own my own shop and this is one of the reasons I know to do this. As I mentioned it's not putting them in a huge bind at this low of lift but I figure if you can do something to relieve the stress and it's easy you might as well. As far as the method it's up to you. Even when I do them at home on jack stands I always do a whole axle at a time, but it's just personal preference. There is a saying in the automotive field. Ask 4 mechanics how to do something and you'll get 10 answers.|
|07-11-2013 03:20 PM|
Is it both upper and lower control arms? The instructions for the leveling kit looks pretty easy but doesn't reference any of this, but the 2.5 inch lift instructions do. Also, someone recommended removing the skid plate to keep the front drive shaft from hitting it when you lower the axle. It doesn't look like it would hit.
I also found a video where someone just removed one tire at a time and installed it that way. It looked like it used the other tire as a pivot point and just lowered the axle with the jack. It took less than 3 minutes per spring once the bolts to the sway bar link, shocks and brake line bracket was loosened. Would you recommend doing it this way or just taking the whole front end appart at the same time? I will be working with jack stands and a floor jack.
Does anyone have a list of torque specs?
Thanks for all the help everyone.
|07-11-2013 03:00 PM|
|07-11-2013 02:11 PM|
Okay, I'm done with the hijack!
|07-11-2013 02:07 PM|
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