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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-21-2013 01:47 PM
groovebus Finished the install on Monday. (took 2 days off work to do the Jeep mods I've been putting off while the kids were out of school) I put in the 2" leveling kit and did the short bumper mod from Rough Country.

Everyting went smooth with the budget boost, only took about 1 hour per wheel doing it by myself. I fully recommend spring compressors, I don't know how anyone could do this without them. My other main recommendation is that there is no marked indexing on the rear springs; like the spot where the end of the spring goes on the front ones. The axle is slightly off center to the spot where the spring attaches to the body so if you put the spring on a certain way it bulges. Put the end of the spring towards the back on the axle end of the spring so it bends the right way. I accidently put one on right and one on wrong, I got good enough taking it all apart it only took 30 minutes to take it apart and fix the issue. Don't have access to the pictures but will post up some soon.

Also re-torque the track bar and control arms when you are done. I was tired and got lazy after the install, so the next day it felt really loose and squishy until I tightened it all back up.
07-12-2013 08:50 PM
Vin When I did my lift, it actually helped jacking up the opposite side of the front axel to get more droop on the side I was working on to get the longer spring back in.


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07-12-2013 08:48 PM
Vin
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali032373 View Post
I have 2 basic questions I hope someone can help with. First, in placing jack stands, what's the best/safest spot on the vehicle (front and rear)?

Second, I was looking to replace the TB bolts with the synergy upgrade ones. It looks like you get 4 bolts (2 for the front, 2 for the rear), but it also comes with a bolt for the front frame side TB bracket. Not really sure where that is.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
1) on the frame just inside of each wheel well (rear of front wheel well and front of rear wheel well)

2) driver's side by the hoop of the track bar.


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07-12-2013 11:45 AM
marslim Best spot for Jackstands would be on the frame rails, that's how I did mine, just make sure you go high enough to allow you enough room to drop the across enough to change your springs
07-12-2013 09:43 AM
Ali032373 I have 2 basic questions I hope someone can help with. First, in placing jack stands, what's the best/safest spot on the vehicle (front and rear)?

Second, I was looking to replace the TB bolts with the synergy upgrade ones. It looks like you get 4 bolts (2 for the front, 2 for the rear), but it also comes with a bolt for the front frame side TB bracket. Not really sure where that is.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
07-12-2013 07:02 AM
dadrunamok
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
You can do the same. Find a set of takeoffs from someone's rear for the front.
I've got a set. Not sure where you are, but if they need to be shipped and you're willing to pay for the UPS or whatever I'll send 'em to you. Fire me a PM if you're interested.
07-11-2013 11:03 PM
fimk ok thanks .. i appreciate the help
07-11-2013 10:48 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by fimk View Post
This maybe off topic but do you really need the teraflex sway bars? I was planing to use a 1.5 puck in the front springs with no change to the back springs to get rid of my rake. If I do this will i need longer sway bars? (2013 jku moab and will be adding winch plates and winch)
You should if e-disco equipped. Most the kits reuse your stock rears in the front because they are longer, and supply new rears.

You can do the same. Find a set of takeoffs from someone's rear for the front.
07-11-2013 10:18 PM
fimk This maybe off topic but do you really need the teraflex sway bars? I was planing to use a 1.5 puck in the front springs with no change to the back springs to get rid of my rake. If I do this will i need longer sway bars? (2013 jku moab and will be adding winch plates and winch)
07-11-2013 08:11 PM
5150Rubicon
Quote:
Originally Posted by ESP View Post
Agree.

A full leveling kit "performance kit with coils instead of pucks" will net you at least the 2" in the front and 1" in the rear but more than likely a little bit more height. Using this type of kit with 33s will look and function great and the coils will be rated higher allowing more weight (new bumper, winch, etc) to be added without the loss experienced with spacers.
course...what I WANT to do is 2.5" TF, GY duratrac 315/70/17's, bushwacker flatties, jcr front stubby....it goes on and on.
07-11-2013 08:01 PM
ESP Agree.

A full leveling kit "performance kit with coils instead of pucks" will net you at least the 2" in the front and 1" in the rear but more than likely a little bit more height. Using this type of kit with 33s will look and function great and the coils will be rated higher allowing more weight (new bumper, winch, etc) to be added without the loss experienced with spacers.
07-11-2013 06:39 PM
5150Rubicon
Quote:
Originally Posted by ESP View Post
Lemme throw in another 0.2 cents here.

If you only do 1" all around and at that...1" pucks all around, you are going to sag if you add any kind of additional weight such as a new front bumper, winch or heavier tire on the rear. You'll be practically back to stock height very quickly. If your going to do a leveling kit and plan to never add anything else to your jeep regarding weight (additionally you don't wheel your jeep much) then the "spacer lift is a good option". But only installing 1" pucks all around again has a lot of limits. You may regret not just doing the full install when you have to do all of the same work for less height. This is entirely up to you though. Build it the way you want.
Totally agree with you and your argument against the kit if weight is going to be added (via bumpers, etc). Either way (2" in front or 1" spacer) the weight will compress the springs and it would be back to stock or worse, negative rake, in the case of a heavier spare and no extra weight anywhere else. As Big Fran showed, as soon as weight was added....it sagged (also because the stock springs don't respond well to extra weight) and he went with the TF 2.5 Coil. With no extra weight though, lots of people have great lookin rides with 33's and the leveling kit (again, the 2" vs 1" in the front won't matter in thatcase).
07-11-2013 06:13 PM
ESP Lemme throw in another 0.2 cents here.

If you only do 1" all around and at that...1" pucks all around, you are going to sag if you add any kind of additional weight such as a new front bumper, winch or heavier tire on the rear. You'll be practically back to stock height very quickly. If your going to do a leveling kit and plan to never add anything else to your jeep regarding weight (additionally you don't wheel your jeep much) then the "spacer lift is a good option". But only installing 1" pucks all around again has a lot of limits. You may regret not just doing the full install when you have to do all of the same work for less height. This is entirely up to you though. Build it the way you want.
07-11-2013 05:05 PM
5150Rubicon
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeraFlex View Post
Agreed you are correct.
Thanks Teraflex, I appreciate your response. Quick question...if I do 1" all around, do you still recommend using the extended sway bar links that come with your kit (I have a 2013 JKUR)?

Thanks!
07-11-2013 04:52 PM
TeraFlex Agreed you are correct.
07-11-2013 04:49 PM
5150Rubicon
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
You have it right
shot you a PM
07-11-2013 04:47 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5150Rubicon View Post

I was just curious about the leveling kit. IF I were to do that...I do not have much rake, and I actually like the rake (well, I should say...I really DONT like negative rake when the front sits higher than the back). So I was wondering about just adding a touch of lift all around (1" at that point). So it would essentially be 1" higher with the same factory rake. Instead of 1" higher in the back and 2" higher in the front. Would look nice with GY Duratrac 285/70/17s and keep all road manners and not f**k with the geometry (disclaimer: I have no idea what I'm talking about)
You have it right
07-11-2013 04:41 PM
5150Rubicon
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Learn something new every day
I was just curious about the leveling kit. IF I were to do that...I do not have much rake, and I actually like the rake (well, I should say...I really DONT like negative rake when the front sits higher than the back). So I was wondering about just adding a touch of lift all around (1" at that point). So it would essentially be 1" higher with the same factory rake. Instead of 1" higher in the back and 2" higher in the front. Would look nice with GY Duratrac 285/70/17s and keep all road manners and not f**k with the geometry (disclaimer: I have no idea what I'm talking about)
07-11-2013 03:27 PM
kjeeper10 Learn something new every day
07-11-2013 03:19 PM
TeraFlex Nope he is correct there are 2 1" pucks in the kit that you stack ontop of each other. At such a low lift height there is no worries about stacking pucks.

Also on the topic of loosening bolts. By loosening the bolts you will also make lowering the axle to get the springs out much much easier.
07-11-2013 03:13 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeraFlex View Post
You are correct and yes you can.


"2 one inch pucks" meaning stacked ?

Was he misunderstood here ?

The point to the leveling kit is to remove the rake, but Still give a little bit of lift overall.

One can just add 1" spacers to the front. This would do the same with less height.
07-11-2013 02:55 PM
TeraFlex I suggest doing it to all arms. I used to own my own shop and this is one of the reasons I know to do this. As I mentioned it's not putting them in a huge bind at this low of lift but I figure if you can do something to relieve the stress and it's easy you might as well. As far as the method it's up to you. Even when I do them at home on jack stands I always do a whole axle at a time, but it's just personal preference. There is a saying in the automotive field. Ask 4 mechanics how to do something and you'll get 10 answers.
07-11-2013 02:20 PM
groovebus
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeraFlex View Post
You are correct and yes you can.

Is it both upper and lower control arms? The instructions for the leveling kit looks pretty easy but doesn't reference any of this, but the 2.5 inch lift instructions do. Also, someone recommended removing the skid plate to keep the front drive shaft from hitting it when you lower the axle. It doesn't look like it would hit.

I also found a video where someone just removed one tire at a time and installed it that way. It looked like it used the other tire as a pivot point and just lowered the axle with the jack. It took less than 3 minutes per spring once the bolts to the sway bar link, shocks and brake line bracket was loosened. Would you recommend doing it this way or just taking the whole front end appart at the same time? I will be working with jack stands and a floor jack.

Does anyone have a list of torque specs?


Thanks for all the help everyone.
07-11-2013 02:00 PM
TeraFlex
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5150Rubicon View Post
Teraflex...is the leveling kit 2 one inch pucks for each side on front? Could just one be used, making it a 1" lift all around? Don't mean to hijack.
You are correct and yes you can.
07-11-2013 01:11 PM
dadrunamok
Quote:
Originally Posted by ESP View Post
You can still do this. Simply loosen the CA and track bar bolts while on the ground. Do not remove them. Shake the jeep, jump up and down on the front and rear bumpers then tighten and torque to spec. No jacks or lifting to accomplish this.
I wondered if this would work...I did not loosen the CA bolts on mine when I lifted it and I've been slightly concerned about the bushings binding.

Okay, I'm done with the hijack!
07-11-2013 01:07 PM
Greg__Berger
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeraFlex View Post
I really do recommend doing it. With the 1.5" kit it wont make a huge difference in the rear but it can in the front since you are actually going up 2 inches. If you like the way it rides now you may not need to worry about it. But we get a lot of calls about a stiffer ride after these kits are installed and almost always this is the cause. Same thing with a severely shifted axle after putting this kit on.
Thanks, I actually put on a Zone Offroad 3". I've been really happy with it, but this adjustment may help immensely.
07-11-2013 01:02 PM
5150Rubicon
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeraFlex View Post
I really do recommend doing it. With the 1.5" kit it wont make a huge difference in the rear but it can in the front since you are actually going up 2 inches. If you like the way it rides now you may not need to worry about it. But we get a lot of calls about a stiffer ride after these kits are installed and almost always this is the cause. Same thing with a severely shifted axle after putting this kit on.
Teraflex...is the leveling kit 2 one inch pucks for each side on front? Could just one be used, making it a 1" lift all around? Don't mean to hijack.
07-11-2013 12:56 PM
TeraFlex I really do recommend doing it. With the 1.5" kit it wont make a huge difference in the rear but it can in the front since you are actually going up 2 inches. If you like the way it rides now you may not need to worry about it. But we get a lot of calls about a stiffer ride after these kits are installed and almost always this is the cause. Same thing with a severely shifted axle after putting this kit on.
07-11-2013 12:49 PM
Greg__Berger
Quote:
Originally Posted by ESP View Post
You can still do this. Simply loosen the CA and track bar bolts while on the ground. Do not remove them. Shake the jeep, jump up and down on the front and rear bumpers then tighten and torque to spec. No jacks or lifting to accomplish this.
Yeah, I understood what they were talking about. I'm just being lazy. I had access to a mechanic's bay when I installed the lift so I had his lift and tools. I don't at home so either I go buy a torque wrench and do it myself, or see if i can get an auto shop to do it really quick with their air tools. I just hate the thought of paying someone to do that after I did the entire install myself and not being able to ensure that they torqued everything to spec as requested.
07-11-2013 11:37 AM
ESP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg__Berger View Post
Sorry to hijack, but TeraFlex - you mentioned that you'd recommend loosening and re-tightening the control arm and track bar bolts to reduce the possibility of pre-load impacting ride quality... What if you never loosened them at all? I did a lift install and didn't touch the control arms. Is this something you recommend that I do? Does it really make a difference?
You can still do this. Simply loosen the CA and track bar bolts while on the ground. Do not remove them. Shake the jeep, jump up and down on the front and rear bumpers then tighten and torque to spec. No jacks or lifting to accomplish this.
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