|07-21-2013 11:07 AM|
|07-21-2013 09:55 AM|
|tae73||A Leak = a good excuse to buy a better diff cover!!!|
|07-21-2013 09:47 AM|
|07-21-2013 08:38 AM|
|07-21-2013 08:35 AM|
I installed the ARB cover this weekend. First let me say the cover is awesome. I had my wife pick up the OEM cover after I took it off; and then ARB cover and she said "holy crap that weighs 4 times what the stock cover does!" VERY SOLID!
The cover is made in Australia, I was happy not made in china. USA would have been preferred but I'll take not made in china.
The dip stick is awesome, what a great feature. I lined up the old and new cover and marked the oil level that lined up with stock oil level so I can check in the future.
The only complaint I have with the cover is the bolts are allen key. Would prefer a typical bolt head but not a huge deal. There's one bolt that was difficult to get to on the OEM cover in front of the rear sway bar (I used a wrench instead of a socket on OEM bolt) and was even more difficult to reach with a hex key - couldn't get my socket w/ a hex key in. I was able to tighten with hex key but had to push the rear sway bar up and out of the way. Otherwise this cover rocks!
Daniel from ARB is active on wranglerforum and he answered a few questions I PM'd him super fast and was very helpful.
I'll post some pics.
|07-18-2013 12:49 PM|
|07-13-2013 01:18 PM|
|07-13-2013 10:50 AM|
|Rooster76||ARB makes a good looking cover. It's likely the only one with a dip stick. That will take some of the guess work out of filling it up. Good call.|
|07-13-2013 10:10 AM|
|Metonymy||Northridge4x4 sells "gaskets" that seal so you don't have to use RTV when reassembling if you pull the cover off. Cool stuff!|
|07-13-2013 08:01 AM|
[QUOTE=Rooster76;3955958] I would check the bottom of the diff cover to see if it looks like it got peeled back some going over a rock. I guess it did.
Ordered ARB Diff cover from quadratec...
|07-12-2013 07:09 PM|
|07-12-2013 07:06 PM|
DIY FIX SUGGESTIONS
The rear diff takes about 2 quarts so at that rate you good for awhile. You still might see if you can top it off. Its pretty easy to do with just a 3/8" ratchet and no socket. Just remove the top fill hole. See if you can get any extra oil in. It's made to spill out when it's full. I would check the bottom of the diff cover to see if it looks like it got peeled back some going over a rock. I guess it did. If so I would put a new beefier aftermarket cover on there at the top of your mod list. That's about $100-150. The riddler/poison spyder one are supposed to be nice, but you need aftermarket track bars for clearance, that is my understanding anyways. Other covers might be like that too. After you upgrade you need to measure the amount of oil you put in or it will overflow out the breathers.
You can use a "lube locker" rubber gasket vs RTV silicone as a seal. Is $20 per axle, but can be reused. It's directions, and some diff covers, say to torque the bolts to 35 ft/lbs. You best to keep them at 25 or there is a great risk of breaking a bolt.
The diff fluid is $20-75 for a gallon. That's enough to totally replace both axles. Normally that's a 2 year maintenance item, or one year for lots of wheeling. If your doing the front diff, now or later, I would highly suggest getting a cheap pump vs using the cut off top of a quart bottle. If you have the factory LSD trac-lok "anti-spin rear axle" option, or don't know, your best off getting a synthetic that states it has Limited Slip additive in it. I've heard a couple times conventional oil is smoother and quieter in the axles. It's also about half the price. 80w-90 is what's recommended in the user manual. 75w-90 will work too like in that write-up. If you do lots of towing they recommend a different weight. I don't know it off the top of my head.
The old oil should fit in a gallon milk jug. There are catch pans that have a nice spout to pour the oil out. I'd get one of those guys and still use a funnel. You can take the used oil in for free disposal at about any auto store.
|07-12-2013 03:12 PM|
Thanks everyone for the great info, looks like it was helpful to a few others too...that's what's great about this forum. I think when I'm due for the fluid change I'll replace seal and maybe upgrade the diff cover at same time.
Someone used the word seepage in a post, I think that's the right term. I put a piece of paper under the diff overnight to see what turned up and looks like there was one drop.
|07-12-2013 03:08 PM|
|123Jato||Or loosen up the dif cover some so it is "actively leaking" and they will fix your problems.|
|07-12-2013 03:06 PM|
Np all enjoy, it's a wayalife !
|07-12-2013 02:55 PM|
|HouseofCards||Good write up|
|07-12-2013 02:45 PM|
|legitposter||When you buy any other vehicle, you're buying a vehicle. When you buy a Chrysler, you're buying a responsibility. The mechanically challenged should look elsewhere!|
|07-12-2013 02:19 PM|
|WranglingLou||Awesome thanks for the tips and instructions|
|07-12-2013 02:01 PM|
|Lusus_Naturae||It's so easy to do this now there's no excuse to pay to have it done. Even if you have to crack the covers off, the drain plug makes it nice. Around here they charge $220 or so to do it for you - that's on the low end too!|
|07-11-2013 06:28 PM|
Lucky for you! WAYALIFE ROCKS! This is his write up on another forum. Just fallow the 1st few steps then once you have all the screws out you can pull the diff cover directly off.
Clean old sealer off with a razor blade
Apply new RTV sealer (don't need much , just a little bead all around)
Slap it back on and apply screws & refill
Changing the fluid in your Jeep JK Wrangler’s differentials is an important part of routine maintenance. New gear oil will insure your differentials will be well lubricated and function properly. And, unlike previous Jeep Wranglers, it will not be necessary remove the differential cover in order to do this. Granted, I do recommend that you do so anyway from time to time (every other fluid change) as it will give you a chance to inspect your gears and catch any damage or unsual wear.
Following "Schedule B" in the Jeep owner manual (heavy driving), I change my differential fluids every 15,000 miles. However, It’s always a good idea to do this as IF you've submerged your axles in deep water for prolonged periods of time. Below is a list of what you will need and instructions on how to service yourself differentials on a Jeep JK Wrangler Dana 30 or Dana 44 axle.
What You Will Need[hr][/hr]• 3/8" Drive Ratchet
• Torque Wrench
• 3" Ratchet Extension
• Oil Catch Pan
• Paper Towels
• (4) Quarts 75W90 or Heavier Gear Oil (Use synthetic IF you have a limited slip differential)
Differential Fluid Capacity[hr][/hr]Front Dana 44
2.7 pints (1.35 quarts)
Rear Dana 44
4.75 pints (2.375 quarts)
Basic Fluid Change Instructions[hr][/hr]1. Using the square head of a 3/8" Drive ratchet, remove the fill bolt from your differential cover.
2. Place an oil catch pan underneath your differential. Then, using a 3/8" drive ratchet with a 3" extension attached to it, remove the drain bolt from the base of it as shown.
3. Allow your differential to drain completely before proceeding.
4. Your Jeep JK Wrangler’s drain bolt is magnetic and the inside end of it should be fuzzy with fine iron filings. Use a paper towel and some brake cleaner to wipe the bolt clean. If you find any metal chunks, you should skip down to the Thorough Fluid Change Instructions for instructions on how to remove the differential cover.
5. Using a 3/8" drive ratchet with a 3" extension attached to it, reinstall your drain bolt back on to the base of your differential. Tighten this bolt to 25 ft. lbs. of torque.
6. Proceed to refill your differential with gear oil. Please note that a front Dana 44 differential only needs 2.7 pints (1.35 quarts) and the rear only needs 4.75 pints (2.375 quarts). If you have factory covers, all you need to do is fill up your differentials until gear oil oozes out of the fill hole. If you have an after market differential cover that has a higher fill hole than factory, DO NOT be tempted to add any more gear oil than is needs. Doing so will result in a differential that is over-filled that will cause gear oil to get pumped out of the breather tube. If you are unsure how much you'll need in your axle, a good rule of thumb to follow is that you only need as much gear oil as is needed to get it to reach the bottom of your axle tubes. You can use a zip tie bent in a 90° angle to act as a dip stick to help you know where that is. NOTE: IF you have a limited slip differential, you will need to add friction modifier into your differential or, be sure to use a synthetic gear oil as it will have friction modifier in it.
7. Using the square head of a 3/8" Drive ratchet, re-install the fill bolt on to the differential cover. Tighten this bolt to 25 ft. lbs. of torque.
Thorough Fluid Change Instructions[hr][/hr]In order to perform a thorough differential fluid change, you will be required to remove your differential covers. For instructions on how to do this, simply click on the link below. While it was written for the installation of aftermarket differential covers, the process is the same.
Differential Cover Installation Write-Up
That’s it! Please let me know if you have any questions and don’t forget to take your old gear oil to your local recycling center (PepBoys, Autozone or the like).[/QUOTE]
|07-11-2013 06:28 PM|
The Dealer will only fix this type of a leak under warranty, if it is physically dripping on to the ground.
I suggest that you call your Dealer and confirm this, before wasting your time and gas..............
|07-11-2013 06:22 PM|
|Rooster76||I took mine in for a minor seeping. They gave it right back after 30 minutes and said it had to have an active leak to be fixed under warranty.|
|07-11-2013 05:42 PM|
|WatchThis!||Since it is under warranty take it back and let them fix it. They probably will just tighten it up a bit.|
|07-11-2013 05:41 PM|
|jadmt||the excess gasket material is normal the seepage should not be happening. Not going really cause any problems other then seeps usually never get better only worse.|
|07-11-2013 05:38 PM|
Rear Diff - Is This Normal?
2013; JKUR 4.10 gears; 6-speed
A lot of people on here are smarter about this stuff than me so...
I parked my jeep in a lot for a few days and noticed when I got back that there was a spot under the rear diff. There's some extra gasket material around the bottom of the diff that's hanging down (I assume this is just extra material and it's no big deal?) but there does appear to be a small/very slow leak.
Should I be worried about what appears to be a slow leak? Is that gasket material anything to worry about?
Still under warranty of course since it's a '13.
No weird noises or vibrations or anything.
Thanks for any thoughts!