|10-26-2013 11:44 AM|
Got my new temperature sending unit from Summit Racing. P/N 35020. I installed it yesterday and I'm back I business. Fan turns on and off as its designed to do. The standard sending unit that the kit came with had some of the seal break loose on one of the terminals. I'm assuming this is what caused it to stop working. If anyone has to change it out I would highly recommend this sensor that I installed. It's a replaceable sensor for one, and its a larger sensor. So it has more surface area for temperature reading. Hope this was helpful.
|09-28-2013 08:26 PM|
|DarthLEGO||Jerry - Thank you for the right up! This may be my next upgrade. Looks relatively straightforward.|
|09-28-2013 11:49 AM|
Mine seldom comes on but it does on a hot day, when I'm towing my trailer, or doing long slow climbs up trails in 4Lo. The aux cooler is providing extra cooling even when the fan is not running so the fan doesn't need to come on all that often.
|09-28-2013 10:51 AM|
|09-28-2013 10:21 AM|
Just installed one on my LJ last weekend. Had to extend the return line about 8 inches, because I couldn't mount in the correct location (my side steps clamp around the frame there). Hose routing was a bit of challenge near the steering linkages, but I think they're safe. Hooked up the electrical to the post in the power distribution, so it's on constant power for now. Just got my relay and other electrical bits in the mail, so I will connect to ignition-switched power the next chance I get.
I do know it works, but I haven't heard it come on at all yet. What's the best way to make my trans generate some heat?
|07-15-2013 03:25 PM|
|07-15-2013 11:38 AM|
|07-14-2013 02:22 PM|
|07-14-2013 10:26 AM|
My oil cooler fan just quit working about a month ago. So I got under my jeep and started looking at things. I first Trouble shoot the fan first with a 12volt motorcycle battery hooked up positive an negative of the fan to the battery and fan came on. So that ruled out the fan was the problem. I then went to the switched power supply line. Poked my old ice pick style circuit tester by sticking the pick into the power supply terminal, and then clipping the alligator clip to ground. I then had my wife turn the key on the ignition to accessory and my circuit tester light went on and off as she turned the key on an off. So that told me that power was getting to the fan. So where I'm at now is I assume I have a bad temperature sending unit. I have called Derale multiple times an left messages and have had No response. All i want to ask is if i can I purchase a new sending unit from them and if so what is the part number and cost. Since I have not gotten any response. I have been looking at Summit racing to purchase a new sending unit. But there are multiple thread sizes for the cooler side of the sending unit and the hose fitting side of the sending unit. Since I bought this in a kit I don't know the thread sizes. Jerry do you or anyone else out there that has purchased this kit by chance know the thread size of the fitting that threads into the cooler, and also know the thread size of the hose fitting that threads onto the the aluminum fitting that threads onto the cooler? This would help me make my decision on what sending unit to purchase from Summit Racing. Any input would be great
|07-14-2013 09:57 AM|
|06-10-2013 02:58 PM|
I didn't ask them to replace it under warranty and by no means hold them responsible, I simply wanted to know if the motor could be purchased separately rather than re-purchasing the whole kit and what the reason for the hole was and if there were any options for sealing it a little better. I spent a little over an hour on the phone with Derale's customer service this morning which was superb. I was told by their customer service that the hole is there only for the wiring and was not a vent (I'm not entirely sure I believe this, but that is exactly what I was told). The replacement part number for the fan itself is 16508 (with the wiring) or 16618 (just the fan). When I receive the new fan I may try running a vent tube of some sort on the fan just to prevent this from happening again. As a consequence of living in the desert southwest sand gets EVERYWHERE, it was inevitable with the design of the 'vent' but should be fairly simple to modify and prevent this from happening again.
Hope this helps anyone else that may have this issue in the future.
|06-10-2013 10:16 AM|
Nice write up Jerry...
I also take temp readings from the output side of the cooler as this is the temp of the oil you're feeding the transmission. The temp of the oil in the pan or pre-cooler is far less relevant..
With electrical sending units, I typically leave the thread tape or sealant off of the first few threads as they will ground a lot better..
|06-10-2013 09:39 AM|
|Jerry Bransford||I can't imagine anything that can generate heat like that not being vented. Which is the same reason our axles, transfer case, and transmissions are all vented. Sounds to me like sand got inside from your wheeling which is just one of the risks we assume when we wheel and I can't see holding the manufacturer responsible.. Derale sells replacement parts, you shouldn't have any problem getting a new motor. I'm not so sure I'd ask them to replace it under warranty though.|
|06-10-2013 12:30 AM|
Just a quick update on my issue:
I wound up spinning the fan by hand a few times which initially resolved the issue. About 3 months ago the issue came back right before I parked the Jeep for a rebuild. While the motor and trans were out I again pulled the trans cooler and took a look at it. The motor on the fan is a 'sealed' unit with only 1 small vent hole. Well, my motor is full of sand I presume as it has nearly seized the fan. There is no way to clean it out and no way to open the motor itself. I've emailed Derale's customer service without a response (its been a week) so I'll try giving them a call this week. It is outside of warranty so I'm not expecting much, though I am a little disappointed with the product. It worked flawlessly and more than likely saved my transmission when pulling our camp trailer, but 2 years and it's dead seems a little ridiculous. I dont do a whole lot of extreme wheeling with the Jeep, it serves as a daily driver and a camping vehicle though we occasionally do mild trails with the local 4 wheel drive club. Living in the southwest sand is everywhere and its not as though I intentionally abused the cooler or put it in situations that were by any means above or beyond what it was designed for.
Enough of a rant, here is a picture of the hole I'm referring to. The lighting isnt the best, but in the center of the black rubber square is the only opening into the motor's casing.
Sorry to hijack your thread, Jerry. If you'd like I'll move this off to it's own post, but I thought you guys may want to be aware of the issue.
I've asked Derale the purpose of the hole and if it can be sealed off to prevent issues like this in the future (it's worth asking atleast). I've also asked if I can purchase just the motor from them, rather than spending $350 on a whole new cooler when all I need is the motor. I'll let you know what happens.
|02-15-2013 12:56 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||Oh gotcha, thanks.|
|02-15-2013 12:27 PM|
P-clamps are a type of clamp that have a rubber insulation layer attached to them which protects the hose from the metal clamp and it has a eyelet that allows you to attach the clamp where ever you choose
|02-15-2013 11:29 AM|
|Jerry Bransford||You're very welcome, what are p-clamps?|
|02-15-2013 11:25 AM|
Ticking tranny noise gone for good
Thanks for the write up Jerry it was very helpful. Especially the photos.
I installed the same kit on my jeep and have had no issues with my tranny making the infamous ticking noise that I presented to everyone. I was a little concerned about the location of the cooler (ie. mud and rocks) but after going on a recent trip across the Mojave dessert, where we encountered a fair amount of mud and rocks. I was very pleased to see that the cooler is pretty well protected from all of that. Yes it did get a little mud trapped in it but not enough to restrict air flow. The installation instructions with the kit and your thread made it very easy to install. The only thing I would recommend for others who are considering this kit. Is to purchase some p-clamps and hardware for routing the hoses along the frame rail as you enter the engine compartment. This allows you to keep the hoses away from the moving parts of the suspension as well as the exhaust, and keeps everything very clean and organized. I will try and get some photos of my install to pass onto others. When I figure out how to load them into the thred
Good luck to others.
|02-10-2013 09:19 PM|
|tslroper||I'll double check it, but I didn't see anything the first time. I'll give them a call, thanks for the advice. I'll try to report back here what it ends up being.|
|02-09-2013 01:08 PM|
|02-08-2013 08:13 PM|
|tslroper||Hey Jerry, have you had any issues with vibrations from your cooler? After my last camping trip (highway and graded roads, no serious off-roading), the entire cooling unit (radiator and fan) vibrates pretty badly when its on. Enough that you can feel it in the seat and hear it over the sound of the soft top while on the highway. I checked it over and did not notice any damage to it, but it continued to vibrate each time it came on. Any ideas on this one? It's obviously out of balance, but I have no idea what caused it or how to even begin to fix it.|
|12-17-2012 08:27 PM|
|tj_guy99||Thanks Jerry! Is there room for the cooler AND an air tank?|
|12-17-2012 07:13 PM|
|DPD06||I found the best price on Amazon. Word of advice, make sure you check the fittings for the cooler before you get started. They shipped me the incorrect ones so it was an additional delay. When I did my install I used Teflon tape and permatex thread sealant to be certain I wouldnt have any leaks. I also wired my fan direct to a waterproof toggle I control. With the rockcrawler pan, derale cooler and my dual bypass tube fin precooler, I rarely see temps above 165|
|12-17-2012 06:16 PM|
I have two questions:
Is the brand of trans cooler you used still among the "better" ones on the market?
Where is a source to procure them at a reasonable price?
|12-17-2012 05:47 PM|
|12-17-2012 03:30 PM|
|tj_guy99||That is a great write up and I want to do the same thing this coming spring to mine. I wonder if you ever installed some sort of shield to protect the cooler? I would be afraid of a rock or stick poking a hole in it leaving me stranded on the trail. I am sure that it would be fine with nothing to protect it 90% of the time, but the other 10% would worry me. I wonder if expanded steel or some other type of steel mesh would be enough protection from something kicking up. Do you have any update pics to share?|
|12-06-2012 06:57 PM|
|Boliver Kegnails||sweet write up!!! Great pics|
|11-20-2012 07:18 AM|
just bought and installed it, but no gauge.
|10-01-2012 08:55 PM|
I'll stick with my permanently mounted B&M transmission temperature gauge. I don't want to have to plug my Android phone in just to know what my transmission temperature is.
Mine is mounted in my center console...
|10-01-2012 08:44 PM|
|wgyouree||Also, the above formula assumes you have not changed gearing since calibrating your speedo. If you have, the calculations are more complicated than I'm capable of thinking of off hand. Defer to one of the calculators available online with a quick search.|
|This thread has more than 30 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|