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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-10-2013 01:16 AM
48Sam By the way, when I installed the original ring gear to the new carrier, they 4 wheel parts) failed to mention that I needed to drill out larger holes on the carrier so that the original bolts would fit and tighten up the ring gear. For a supposed OEM item you would think they would have been drilled out already to the correct size of the bolts. :O/

07-21-2013 01:35 AM
48Sam Well. She's all done. The stock/original carrier spacers worked out just fine and seems to have the correct backlash. No grinding noise and seems to ride a bit smoother in between shift points.
Took it out for about 20 miles today and going to recheck the gear oil tomorrow morning because it only took 1.8 pints when I was told it takes about 2.5? At any rate, double check it tomorrow.

I want to thank ALL OF YOU GUYS for all your expertise and knowledge throughout my rebuild. I truly appreciate it!


07-20-2013 11:06 AM
48Sam *bump*
07-19-2013 01:47 PM
48Sam Jerry, I'm guessing I could pick up these carrier shims at any auto store or 4 wheel wholesale store?
07-19-2013 01:46 PM
48Sam Well...... It seems I have my work cut out for me this evening. LOL
I was REEEEEEALLY hoping it would be a "bolt-on" process. Maybe my original bearing spacers will work out and I won't need to shim for more of less backlash. Cross your fingers (and eye balls)
07-19-2013 01:48 AM
Jerry Bransford Backlash is the required amount of "slop" between the ring & pinion gear... i.e. how far back & forth the ring gear can be rotated back & forth against the stationary pinion gear.

Per the FSM... Gear Backlash . . . .0.13-0.20 mm (0.005-0 .008 in.)

The backlash how far the ring gear can be rotated between the teeth on the pinion gear. You use a dial indicator to see how much there is.

If there is too little or too much backlash, the gears will be noisy and likely fail.

If there is too much backlash, the differential needs to get shimmed towards the right, towards the pinion gear. Too little backlash and it needs to be shimmed to the left, away from the pinion gear.

There also must be enough "preload" so the carrier bearings work properly after you have the back lash set. Use light preload while setting the back lash, then add equal amounts of shimming on both sides to get the required amount without changing the backlash between the gears.

Installing a new carrier isn't just a bolt & go process. I would read up on the gear setup procedure in the Tech section at Randy's Ring & Pinion at http://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Ho...structions.pdf.

You don't need to do a complete ring & pinion gear setup, all you need to do is the backlash adjustment... a simple straight forward thing once you understand it. So don't let all the R&P setup scare you, just read up on setting the backlash.

This is what a typical dial indicator looks like when measuring the backlash between the ring & pinion gears. I think I have seen dial indicators cheap at Harbor Freight Tools... call around if they don't have one, you'll need one.



You may want to ask for some local help on this, from someone who has set up ring & pinion gears, or at least who has set up the backlash before. It needs to be done, but it's not a terribly difficult job at all.

One last comment... you might get lucky so try reinstalling the shims exactly as they came out & then check your backlash. It may be within spec, I hope it is. You just can't ignore it when installing a new carrier or full-case locker/lsd.

Here are all the specs from the FSM...

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Semi-floating Hypoid
Axle Ratios . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.07/3.55/3.73/4.11
Ring Gear Diameter . . . . . . . . 193 .55 mm (7.62 in.)
Gear Backlash . . . .0.13-0.20 mm (0.005-0 .008 in.)
Pinion Depth . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 .85mm (3 .813 in.)
Brg. Perload, Pinion
(New) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.7-3 .9 N-m (15-35 in. lbs.)
Brg. Perload, Pinion
(Used) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3 N-m (10-20 in. lbs.)
Maximum Carrier Spread. . . . . 0 .51 mm (0.020 in.

TORQUE
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Bolts, Dif£ Cover . . . . . . . . . . . .41 N-m (30 ft. lbs.)
Bolts, Dif£ Bearing Cap . . . . .108 N-m (80 ft. lbs .)
Bolts, Ring Gear. . . . . . . . . . . .;:108 N-m (80 ft. lbs .)
Nuts, Brake Backing Plate . . . .61 N-m (45 ft. lbs .)
Nut, Pinion Gear-
Minimum * . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 N-m (215 ft. lbs .)
07-18-2013 09:01 PM
48Sam Jerry, please excuse my ignorance but when you say measure my backlash, I'm not quite sure what you mean. The big round spacers that came off (I'm assuming you mean the ones that were in there originally between the housing and carrier) is what you are talking about?
I didn't replace the ring gear or pinion. Just the carrier and spider gears.
Please advise.

-Sam
07-18-2013 08:33 PM
Jerry Bransford Hopefully you measured your backlash before removing the carrier, that measurement should be duplicated when re-shimming the new carrier into place so the gears mesh together the same way they did before. That new carrier & spider gears looks nice, fancy/schmancy-looking!
07-18-2013 08:22 PM
48Sam Well. Got the new carrier and spider gears in place. Gonna finish pressing in the bearings and then Loctite the ring gear on and I should be set to go for the rest of the install. Spider gears move nice and snug in there!

-Sam

07-18-2013 07:01 PM
wwch99tj
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Yep that would work, I just used a big soft-faced mallet to reinstall mine.
This worked great for me... ↑
07-18-2013 05:43 PM
clg82 To save some cash for the future, I'd suggest swapping out the dana35 for a dana44 or 8.8....depending on the type of wheeling you do or how gentle you are with the gas pedal....
07-18-2013 05:28 PM
Jerry Bransford Yep that would work, I just used a big soft-faced mallet to reinstall mine.
07-18-2013 05:22 PM
48Sam Any words of wisdom for the install? Should I use a wood block to tap in the carrier until it seats?

-Sam
07-18-2013 05:21 PM
48Sam ok, thanks Cons_Table. I'll use the standard gear oil.
07-18-2013 10:45 AM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by 48Sam View Post
Would standard 75w-90 gear oil suffice or should I go with synthetic gear oil?
No need for synthetic
07-18-2013 10:44 AM
48Sam Would standard 75w-90 gear oil suffice or should I go with synthetic gear oil?
07-17-2013 10:29 PM
48Sam Gentleman,
I'm only changing out the spider gears and carrier. Ring gear and pinnion are good. No broken teeth or damage from what I see. Could have been the lighting/shadowing from the pictures.

I'm assuming I can just use the original washers/spacers (the big round things that fit between the carrier and the inside of the axle on the bearings) the kit came with new ones so I'm assuming they are all the same width?

-Sam
07-17-2013 07:47 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cons_Table View Post
Ya I think it was lighting...I thought the same thing at first glance
You are always ever so diplomatic Geoff.
07-17-2013 07:24 PM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
I thought I saw damage to the ring gear & thought he was replacing it, maybe it's just the lighting. If it is just the carrier, then all it needs is to have the backlash set.

48Sam, don't forget those ring gear bolts need to be held in with Locktite... don't forget it!!
Ya I think it was lighting...I thought the same thing at first glance

Second the loctite...bad things happen when ring gear bolts come out...ask me how I know
07-17-2013 07:23 PM
Jerry Bransford I thought I saw damage to the ring gear & thought he was replacing it, maybe it's just the lighting & my misinterpretation of the photos. If it is just the carrier, then all it needs is to have the backlash set.

48Sam, don't forget those ring gear bolts need to be held in with Locktite!
07-17-2013 07:20 PM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
You realize you're going to have to set up/shim the new ring & pinion gears now right? Installing those plus a new carrier virtually guarantees they will not be set up/meshed properly without a proper setup. That's not an easy job for even an experienced ring & pinion installer... and not gettting the ring & pinion gears set properly means the new gears will be toast in short order.

To further clarify, ring & pinion gears come in matched sets so replacing just the ring gear & keeping the old pinion gear would not be good. I'd be looking for a guy who knows how to set up new R&P gears. I have a shopful of tools, been inside axles more than a few times, but I would and always have hired someone to do my R&P installations.
Jerry, I think he is only needing to replace the spider gears and carrier unless I missed something.
07-17-2013 07:15 PM
Jerry Bransford You realize you're going to have to set up/shim the new ring & pinion gears now right? Installing those plus a new carrier virtually guarantees they will not be set up/meshed properly without a proper setup. That's not an easy job for even an experienced ring & pinion installer... and not gettting the ring & pinion gears set properly means the new gears will be toast in short order.

To further clarify, ring & pinion gears come in matched sets so replacing just the ring gear & keeping the old pinion gear would not be good. I'd be looking for a guy who knows how to set up new R&P gears. I have a shopful of tools, been inside axles more than a few times, but I would and always have hired someone to do my R&P installations.
07-17-2013 07:04 PM
48Sam Well. Worked out great. I used the "shop rag between the ring gear between the pinion gear" method. Removed the ring gear from the carrier as well and get it all prepped.

Now?....... I sit and wait for my parts to come in tomorrow!









Those spider gear are shot. Any idea what would case it to fail only after 60k miles??

-Sam
07-17-2013 06:29 PM
TeraFlex correct not with it in neutral.
07-17-2013 06:21 PM
48Sam I'm assuming I don't need to pull the driveshaft and pinion gear to do this right?
07-17-2013 05:19 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
Put a small box under the diff to catch the carrier when it falls out. Put a box end wrench on one of the ring gear bolts and with it in neutral, turn the pinion. One direction will pull the carrier in tighter, the other will push it out into the box. If you study the pinion gear for a second, you can tell which way to turn it that will screw them (pinion and ring gear) apart from each other.
That method works exceedingly well, Blaine taught me that method a couple years ago when I had to remove the rear Rubicon locker to replace its leaky air bladder. Works slick. Just make sure you put the same shims exactly back where they came from on the sides of the carrier.
07-17-2013 05:18 PM
48Sam Ok, go the bearing ordered and will be here tomorrow along with my carrier.

A Story??? Yup! I clocked my wheel all the way to the left and was backing up my trailer into the driveway, next thing I knew I hit the curb and a loud "snap" occurred. I was lucky enough to get it rolling again down the street (hoping it wasn't anything major... f*"ck yeah right! I wish) but I knew something was wrong when everytime I made a somewhat of a sharp turn it would snap every few feet. Alas, I knew I had a jobber on my hands and luckily I have other means of transportation (A nice quick Harley)

Hopefully up and running by tomorrow night or Friday. I'll take more pics and post them as the process continues during the surgery.

-Sam
07-17-2013 04:39 PM
TeraFlex ohh snap, literally. Is there a cool story that goes with it?
07-17-2013 03:40 PM
wwch99tj I would, when I did mine replaced everything even the outer wheel bearings
07-17-2013 02:37 PM
48Sam I'm guessing I need to purchase two new bearings/races as well?
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