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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-30-2013 01:29 PM
Shammy OShea Just a helpful tip on putting the seats back in without scraping your liner. The slide rails move freely from one another. If you slide the outside rail forward, you can seat the inside rail then position the outside rail. Just did mine without issue.
07-30-2013 08:33 AM
Shammy OShea
The mistakes!

Here are the two spots that I messed up. I was able to get them both in one pic. You can see the spot that I missed in front of the plug in the footwell and the small spot of overspray on the door ledge. Both were easily fixed. One with a rattle can. The other with a rag and some acetone.

Attachment 279419

Also, finished product only cost me about $130 but that's only because I picked up the kit for $80 from a member here (Thanks Sarah). If I had to order full price it would have been around $170.
07-30-2013 08:30 AM
Shammy OShea
Finished product

And here's the finished piece...

Door sill passenger side
Attachment 279413

Bed from the Driver's side
Attachment 279414

Door sill driver's side. I left in the sound deadening for added insulation.
Attachment 279415

Up close of the texture.
Attachment 279416

Rails.
Attachment 279417
07-30-2013 08:26 AM
Shammy OShea
Pics, Pics, Pics

Ok gents. I don't have any of the tear down but, here's the finished project...

Interior all stripped down.
Attachment 279410

Front view of all the wires pulled forward
Attachment 279411

The kit with assembled gun
Attachment 279412
07-29-2013 10:47 PM
gr8fulKID x2 ^ on the pics?
07-29-2013 09:55 PM
michiganadam 200 is about what i spent monstalining. If it cost much more youd be better off goin to the pros.

Wheres the pics?

Dont slam the seats down? I had a hard time not doing that.
07-29-2013 08:52 PM
Shammy OShea
Day 2: Sanding and Spraying

Step 1: Sanding Sponges. Now a lot of folks like to sand before they tape off. Not me. I wanted to make sure that I knew exactly where I wanted to sand before I scuffed up my tub. Scuff is the term of the day. Not sanding. Just scuffing off the clear coat. I ended up using about 8 of my sanding sponges.

Step 2: Clean...again. I used a wet rag to wipe all surfaces that I sanded. Nothing fancy. You'll hear some people tell you to use Mineral Spirits, screw that. That's more money. Just wipe it down with water and a rag and that'll be plenty.

Step 3: Check all tape. Re-check all the plastic and tape to make sure there's no chance for overspray. I had a few spots that peeled up overnight. Nothing crazy. After this I inserted earplugs into all the bolt holes (approx 12) and taped off any extra little spots that I didn't want bedlined.

Step 4: Coat one. If you're doing a 2 door, don't be scared of laying it on thick. You'll have plenty of material. I did 2 reasonably thick coats and still have 1 whole bottle left over. If you're doing a 4 door, you can still spray thick but, you'll use all the material. Raptor recommends 40-70 PSI. I set my compressor to 55 and it seemed to work pretty well. When your first bottle gets to about the 25% mark, I would move to the driver's side footwell (you have to turn the bottle at some pretty funky angles to get around the pedals).

Step 5: CLEAN THE GUN!!! It's a cheap gun. If you don't clean it out, it'll be jammed and you can't spray a second coat. I used acetone. Just insert the feeder tube into the can and spray until you see clear liquid come out of the nozzle. I don't know how appropriate that is but, it worked for me.

Step 6: Wait. Raptor says wait an hour. I waited 1.5 hrs, had some lunch, had a beer, checked my tape and light spots.

Step 7: Coat two. Make sure when applying your second coat you hit all the spots that were thin or that you missed completely. If your Jeep is black (like mine) it'll be hard to determine but, when in doubt SPRAY MORE! Like I said, you'll have plenty of material.

Step 8: Sit back and be awesome. I waited about 45 mins before I started peeling all the tape off. It seemed to be a pretty good timeframe.

Day 2 Total Time: 5 hours with clean up included.

***Notes***
If you spray with your drain plugs in, make sure you get all sides. I had a few light spots on the front side of the plugs in the footwells.
Control your sweeping motion. You'll get a lot more coverage if you take your time and give a tiny overlap.
Any overspray can be cleaned up with a rag and acetone. It wasn't too bad to clean up.

I'm sorry that I didn't post any pictures. I only took a few while I was working on this. If you have something in particular that you need explained further or would like a picture of something, let me know. I'll do my best to get you straightened out.

I haven't started re-installing anything in my Jeep yet but, I'm going to first thing in the morning. The directions say that 2-3 days is good for "light-use". Keep in mind that this stuff is made for truck beds. "Light use" probably means "Don't throw your jackhammer on it" I'm not scared of putting my Jeep back together. As long as you're careful and don't slam the seats down, I'm sure it'll be fine. I'll let you know for sure tomorrow. Good luck!
07-29-2013 08:23 PM
Shammy OShea
The Poorman's Guide to Raptor Lining

I set out to do this mod for as cheap as humanly possible. $200 was my maximum. I will include a full shopping list so that you can have everything you need with as little leftover as possible. I spent about 3 days prepping and spraying. This can easily be done in 2 days and I have amended the timeline accordingly.

***Be advised, all materials were purchased for a 2 door JK. The 4 door models will obviously require more materials. Plan ahead.***

DAY 1: Shopping and Prep Work

Shopping list: 1- Raptor kit (including gun), 1- trim/panel popper, 1- small bottle acetone, 2- large rolls crappy masking tape, 1- large roll blue painter's tape, 1- roll plastic sheeting (10'x50yds), 1- 10-pack coarse sanding sponges, 1- 10-pack pack nitrile gloves, 1- 5-pack nose/mouth masks, *purchased but didn't use 1 can of self-etching primer*

Other items used and already owned: air compressor, ear plugs, wood chisel, heat gun, various tools for tearing apart the Jeep.

Step 1: Tear that MOFO apart. I don't have a rear seat or carpet so I started with the front seats. If you don't have an air impact, you'll need a breaker bar. Those bolts are torqued in there pretty damn good. Next was the plastic trim that goes around the door sill and seat belts. That's where you'll need the trim/panel popper. I used a rag under the tool so that I didn't scratch the plastic but, I'm not certain it's necessary. Next I removed the seat belts. This requires a T50. I recommend detaching the bottom bolt first that way when you remove the top bolt you can hang the seat belt on a nail. This keeps the belt from retracting into the spool (I hear it's a b*&!h to get back out). Then the sub enclosure came out followed by the plastic pieces on the tailgate. At this point the only thing left in the Jeep was the center console. You can choose to tape it off or remove it. I chose to remove it. Start by removing the shifter knobs. The transfer case knob is a PIA but, it does come off with some elbow grease. Once the e-brake is pulled all the way back, use the trim/panel popper to remove the top plate of the console. Then remove the 4 large screws at the base of the console. This should allow you to lift the console from the rear and remove it from the Jeep. Voila! Jeep dismantled.

Step 2: Wiring. I opted to disconnect the tail lights and pull all the wiring to the front of the Jeep. It was easier to me than taping it all off. I used the trim/panel tool to disconnect the wiring from the body, put it into grocery bags, and laid them on the dash.

Step 3: Hell. Or peeling sound-deadening gunk. Whichever you prefer. It wasn't pleasant but, in my opinion, absolutely necessary. The material is porous and I had water, mud, and sand under mine. I used a 1" wood chisel and a hammer. It took about 2 hours to get it all. It was 90 when I did this. If it was 70 I would recommend a heat gun to soften the gunk.

Step 4: Wash the tub. This was a necessary step for me. I had a crap ton of mud and dirt all over the place. Oops.

Step 5: Tape. This is where the blue painter's tape saved my project. I decided to "pre-tape" all edges. This meant using the blue tape as a bottom layer (without plastic attached). I figured that the masking tape and plastic would fail me at some point. I was right. The blue tape prevented any overspray from getting on the body when the plastic peeled up. Just something to keep in mind. I used plastic all over the sound bar and roll cage. It wasn't necessary. Halfway up would have sufficed. If you somehow get bedliner on the sound bar, you've got bigger problems.

And that ends Day 1. All-in-all about 5-6 hours worth of work. Next post will be Day 2: Sanding and spraying.

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