|08-01-2013 07:49 PM|
|Cashcrazy||At least it was an easy fix!|
|08-01-2013 05:18 PM|
Update I un-gooned mine apparently I did not seat the ignition control module plugs together very well un plugged re plugged fired right up
|08-01-2013 03:30 PM|
|Cashcrazy||Thanks for the response. I like to hear other people's opinions and worked for them. I can remember when I first dove into the Jeep addiction and all this information wasn't floating around on the Internet. I learned by trial and error, lots of error.|
|08-01-2013 03:19 PM|
Yes I set the timing by sound I turned the distributor counterclockwise in mine till I was happy with it you do need plug the vac on the distributor while doing this once you have that done tighten the dust and re-adjust your carb
So before re-adjusting the carb my idle was about 1200
But be aware I just gooned my jeep last night messing with the exhaust pipe
So take my advice with a big grain of salt
|08-01-2013 09:33 AM|
|Cashcrazy||I am still chipping away at these problems. It appears I have it timed wrong according to my research. After doing the nutter bypass the 1600RPM no longer applies. The correct way to time is at idle with trans in drive. Tonight ill try again.|
|07-31-2013 10:44 PM|
No the spring is horizontal. I was trying to get that pic in the dark with a hot engine. Ill try to get a better pic or a video clip. On another note, did you set the timing on your jeep after the MC2100 install? If so I would really like to know if you set it at 1600 RPM.
My last exhaust manifold that cracked was white. Well after running my jeep with the timing too retarded my current manifold turned white. I believe it was running too lean causing a high exhaust temp and probably how the carter cracked the last one. I believe my problems are from improper timing. I know carbs are a dying breed but please jump in and share your knowledge if anyone has been down this road before.
|07-31-2013 10:21 PM|
Cash crazy I think I need a better picture befor I say it is good it looks as though your cable is pulling down yes?
Throttle cable that is
|07-31-2013 09:53 PM|
I retimed yet again this evening. This time I started with the RPM about 1100. I advanced to 10* and the rpm was roughly 1500. 100 from the FSM of 1600. The power is much better where it is set now.
The two issues I need to resolve are the heat and now my charcoal canister is chirping. The idle heat slowed way down when I timed to the current setting, but it will still creep past 210. I could hear air leaking from the radiator cap when I turned off the engine. I also spun the fan by hand with the engine hot (&off) and it would spin about 1/4 turn before stopping. I think the fan clutch is good and need a new radiator cap. Any input??
I replaced the vacuum hose that Y's from the PCV valve and goes to the charcoal canister and now it is chirping. What can cause this??
|07-30-2013 10:24 PM|
Tonight I re-timed at 1600 RPM as the FSM calls for. The underhood sticker shows 9* plus or minus 2. I have it set right on 9. After adjusting the timing I had to adjust the carb mixture screws and now pulling 19 on the gauge. After doing this I noticed the temp gauge will creep over 210 if left idling. Any ideas what can cause the heat issue? It did not do this before. I took it for a test drive and its still a moving brick, but it does it very smooth.
Now I am thinking that the PO tried to time it by ear and had it way advanced giving it the added power I am missing. Or I knocked something out of place on the throttle bracket when I pulled the intake/exhaust to replace the gasket. Does the throttle setup look right below?
|07-30-2013 10:47 AM|
Thank you for the reply. The plugs are gapped at .35. I replaced them with the Team Rush. I will recheck the timing with the vacuum gauge this evening. This might be the source of the problem.
I have been reading about the vacuum advance and am starting to wonder if some of my problem is from the distributor. I have read removing the computer with the Nutter Bypass that my vacuum advance will not work as it should. I have also read that the vacuum advance used on YJ's is restricted when compared to the non-emission models. Has anyone researched this?
|07-30-2013 09:35 AM|
I know you said you were at 12* on the timing, but did you try timing it with the vac gauge hooked up? As in is 12 where you were getting the best vacuum, or did you just set it at 12 and take it out for a drive, and like the idle/low end the best?
I would try setting it at 8 or 10 with your exact set up and see if that helps. You should definitely be getting more power at 2200 rpm over the Carter. Also double check the plug gapping, most of the team rush threads recommend .45 but that is only when you did the coil too. I would double check and set them to 35 since you are on the stock coil.
|07-29-2013 10:00 PM|
Yet another Motorcraft 2100 question *Video
Jeep YJ with Motorcraft 2100 - YouTube
Vacuum reading before MC2100:
Poor Jeep YJ 258 vacuum gauge reading - YouTube