|10-10-2014 05:37 PM|
|TheJeepKing||I didnt trim my stock fenders. I bought smittybilt tube fenders that requires using your old fenders and cutting them. And the Marines!|
|10-10-2014 05:07 PM|
Great looking Jeep man, was wondering if you could put up the measurements from your trimmed fenders? Love the look and want to try cutting the stock ones myself.
Btw, what branch did you enlist in?
|06-24-2014 08:44 PM|
Dang app. Here's the pics:
|06-24-2014 08:42 PM|
Me and my father decided that it was deffinitly drive line issues. The kit says that you shouldn't have to do a TC drop, however we had to because the driveshaft was on a terrible bind. So we used the pucks from the body lift ( already had an inch BL) as spacers and lowered the TC 1.25". Now it drives great. I didnt order quick discos because I figured its not too hard to just take off 2 bolts. But I should have plenty of room in the wheel wells to disconnect if need be. It drives much better than stock and looks much more aggressive!
|06-20-2014 11:14 PM|
|TheJeepKing||So with 16 days left before I leave for basic, I pulled the trigger on getting a lift. I purchased the Zone 4.25 combo kit. My dad and I installed it in roughly 8 hours. The total lift in the front was only 1.5" due to the fact I had coil springs from an XJ to raise it a bit. But in the rear I gained a total of 5", the factory springs were worn. The lift looks great and gives me a ton more clearance, however after test driving it for the first time it had horrible driveshaft vibes at about 20mph. The Zone kit claims that I shouldn't need to do a TC drop bc of the MML. I was wondering if it was possible mine could be an exception or that it could be something else? I read that it could be bc of a bad tranny mount. I would just like someone else's input on what it could be. If anyone has experience with this lift any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks|
|04-24-2014 12:00 PM|
|All Terrain JK||
Fixed the pics for you son. Now readers don't need to turn their monitors sideways.
You should post a pic of the finish project, it looks much better now.
|04-24-2014 10:47 AM|
In order to tell that I am going for the monster theme I bought a decal from a local shop. I've gotta say, it was hard to put on seems how my whole jeep is bedliner and it doesn't stick to bedliner. First I clear coated over the bedliner hoping it would stick good to the clear coat. Well it barely stuck. So then I thought using the heat gun would make it adhere to the paint. Which worked a little but still was not on their very good. So I decided to put a clear coat over it and it should stick. Which worked. Two cans of paint and about 8 coats later it was stuck on there pretty good. With the bedliner being rough there is a texture to the sticker and a few wrinkles, but It adds character (:
By the way, I then clear coated the whole raised part of the hood to make it look good
|04-05-2014 10:05 AM|
When I bedlined the tub I just painted over the Jeep sticker on the side. So I decided to custom make my own decals cause stickers won't stick to bedliner. I cut the word Jeep out of diamond plate using a plasma cutter. Then I dressed them up with a file and wired wheel and painted them. I riveted them to the tub where the Jeep sticker was and painted the rivets using a Q-tip. Looks pretty good and adds a little more green to the exterior:
|03-10-2014 11:21 AM|
So we got the shifter all put back together this weekend. Its amazing how well it shifts when its not missing any pieces! I also put my shift boot on that I got from Fett customs. It wasnt the righy shade of green so I painted it and it looks great now. Very simple install and compliments my interior.
|03-04-2014 08:13 AM|
|NFGZ||Nice! Talk about a lucky find, congrats!|
|03-04-2014 06:58 AM|
|All Terrain JK||
We pulled the shifter tower and disassembled it. The problem was immediately apparent. One of the bushings was missing.
A call to the dealership produced bad news. The shifter was only a available as an assembly.......and discontinued. Of course no parts store is going to carry this. Our options were:
Find one at a junkyard and hope they'd separate it from the trans.
Order a B&M short throw shifter for $220.
As a shot in the dark I stopped by a transmission shop to ask their advice. As luck would have it they received a Jeep shifter last week. Upon inspection the upper shaft was different but the lower shaft and internals were identical. The owner sold it to me for $7. I cleaned up the bushings and they look brand new.
We will install tomorrow when it's warmer, relatively.
Roads? Where we're going we don't need roads!
|03-02-2014 05:28 PM|
I haven't posted much on this in a while, but I've done some minor things to my jeep since my last post. As my dad mentioned we raised the steering shaft bracket up an inch. I also modified my rear bumper. We put lower mounting brackets on it to make it a solid bumper for recovery:
I also relocated my CB mount onto my bumper so it would be more sturdy and painted the bumper in bedliner:
And I made some paracord grab handles:
And finally i have been noticing that my shifter is really loose and is having trouble getting out of second gear. We pulled of the shifter and noticed that there was a piece missing in the pivoting mechanism that we hope to get from the dealer sometime this week. There was also water in my transmission fluid so we''ll flush that out and clean all the parts and cross our fingers that that fixes my shifting issue's.
|02-09-2014 09:13 AM|
|All Terrain JK||
Here are the pictures didn't post because of the stupid phone app.
This is step 1
And this is step two with the pictures in order.
|02-09-2014 09:06 AM|
|All Terrain JK||
Finally got some time to do this write up.
Replacing the upper and lower intermediate steering shafts in a TJ.
1. Immobilize the steering wheel. This is so you don't break your clock spring when you remove the shafts.
2. Remove the three clamp bolts that secure the steering shafts. They must be removed completely in order to separate the shafts. They're located:
Where the lower shaft meets the steering gear.
Where the two shafts meet.
And under the dash where the upper shaft meets the steering column.
Because the head of this bolt is on the top side I turned the steering wheel a bit so I can get to it. just make sure you put steering wheel exactly where you began.
3. Separate the upper and lower shafts, the upper shaft will collapse into itself.
4. Separate the upper shaft at the steering column. Squeeze the plastic tabs on the firewall grommet while pushing inward. The upper shaft is removed through the cab of the Jeep.
5. Remove the bolts that secure the steering shaft bearing bracket to the frame.
Separate the lower shaft from the steering gear and remove the vehicle. This is the complete upper and lower assembly.
6. The new lower shaft will come with a new bearing assembly. Remove the two nuts that secure the bearing assembly to the bracket. Remove the bracket. There is no need to remove the bearing however I wanted to see what it look like underneath.
As you can see by the scoring on the shaft, the bearing was shot.
7. Reverse the steps for installation. Enjoy tight and responsive steering.
|02-04-2014 11:25 PM|
|J33P||Hows it going?|
|01-30-2014 03:03 PM|
|NFGZ||Awesome thread, thanks for sharing!|
|01-30-2014 06:18 AM|
|All Terrain JK||I was just gonna do a quick summary of the install however, since you're interested, I can do a write up. I was in a rush when we did the install as there was another Jeep project to be done that day. As a result I didn't get many pics. If you can wait till tomorrow I will take some and detail the replacement.|
|01-29-2014 11:24 PM|
|J33P||Can't wait until your next post. A nice how to would be great!|
|01-27-2014 01:08 PM|
|All Terrain JK||Recently JeepKing has noticed quite a bit of play in his steering. A dry steering test revealed the ujoints on the upper and lower intermediate shafts were shot. The local Jeep dealer wanted $490 for both shafts. With some shopping I was able to get them for $338 w/free shipping from Mopar Online Parts who is a vendor on this forum. I will cover the install plus a modification we made in my next post.|
|12-21-2013 03:30 PM|
|All Terrain JK||
400mi time for the first oil change.
Seasonally recommended Valvoline 5w30 and Wix 51515 oil filter.
Also removed the serviceable gause, can type air filter you see in the pic. This was just clamped to the end of the intake tube. I replaced it with a factory airbox and Wix filter.
|11-20-2013 04:53 PM|
|Nlburden||Great build, i love the bedliner. My main jeep is bedliner'd it is some fun putting that stuff down. thanks for sharing.|
|11-20-2013 02:00 PM|
|All Terrain JK||
With the engine sitting in it's mounts we reinstalled the grill, radiator, fan, alternater, power steering, coil rail, fuel injector harness, and accessory belt. We labeled all electrical and vacuum connections so they were a simple matter of matching and plugging. With the topside done we placed the Jeep on the hoist. From the bottom side we tightened the bellhousing bolts. Then installed the starter and exhaust crossover pipe. Crossover pipe was welded to the exhaust were we had to cut for removal. 02 sensors were plugged in. Placed the Jeep on the floor.
Oil was already put in when we primed the oil pump so we checked and topped off. Filled the cooling system with 50/50 antifreeze/distilled water. The moment of truth, JeepKing turned the key on/off 3 times to prime the fuel system then hit start.........it fired right up! Per the engine builders instructions we verified oil pressure then used zip ties to raise RPMs to 2000 for 20min. During this break in period oil pressure, coolant level, and temp were constantly monitored.
It has been running great for a week now. We need to address one small issue: when starting you need to press the gas a tiny bit or she will crank excessively before firing. Also has camshaft position cel code. Both of these are because the cps needs to be tuned with a computer at the dealer. When I replaced the OPDA a year ago I was able to tune it by ear. The stealership wants $100 to perform this 10min job. I will try it again myself and see how it works.
|11-14-2013 08:39 PM|
|2003 wrangler||Ok gotcha that makes sense thanks so nothing is necessary as long as the vin comes over from the dash it would be fine. Thanks Joey just in case I end up doing this in 10 years or something haha. And one more question, what do you think about the rustoleum truck bed coating on the inside and outside of your tub? I've used it once only on the doors a little on mine and I did primer before.|
|11-14-2013 08:14 PM|
|All Terrain JK||Thanks for the compliments! When we replaced the '00 tub with the '03 we used all of the interior from the '00. Since the VIN is affixed to the dash it was transferred to the new tub. We did nothing title wise.|
|11-14-2013 03:35 PM|
|2003 wrangler||Yeah nice thread I wish my dad would work of my jeep with me more.... But we have a 1970 cuda that needs put together in our barn. But I had a quick question, I know you guys got a new tub for one of your jeeps, when you did that how does it work with the title and everything? Like when you buy the tub do you need to get a title with it or can you just take off the old and it will still have the same title and vin number and such? Thanks Joey|
|11-13-2013 10:55 AM|
|Sycboi||Fantastic job gentlemen! Really good thread...|
|11-13-2013 08:59 AM|
|All Terrain JK||
The most time consuming phase was cleaning all the required old parts.
Cleaned timing and valve covers, oil pan, main bearing brace, water pump (only few months old), tstat housing, and all fasteners.
Gave the intake manifold and throttle body a thorough cleaning.
Next is re-assembly. This part I stood back and assisted when asked. JeepKing outfitted the long block torquing all fasteners per the FSM.
A blank canvas.
Front half assembled.
I forgot to get a pic but we rotated the engine upside down to install the main bearing brace, oil pump, and oil pan. The engine was turned upright and filled with oil. Using a tool I made from an old OPDA shaft chucked into a 1/2" drill we primed the oil pump. Prior to valve cover installation set the engine at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke for #1 cyl. This was in preparation to install the OPDA. After aligning the timing marks on the OPDA, it was installed.
The last step on the engine stand were the intake and exhaust manifolds.
Once his engine was removed from the stand we installed the pilot bushing, flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate. The engine is assembled!
Using our homemade cherry picker the engine was mated with JeepKings TJ!
To be continued.......
|11-06-2013 07:48 AM|
|Robdog2232||Great thread, sucks to hear about the motor though. Great pics and explanations, cool to see a father son project come together.|
|11-06-2013 07:18 AM|
|All Terrain JK||
That is the connecting rod for #1 piston you can see though the recently redesigned oil pan. Any thoughts of a rebuild were quickly ended when we found this.....
So we purchased a remanufactued long block from Autozone. It was $2000+$510 core and has a 3yr unlimited mile warranty. His core is obviously not rebuilable however a few emails to a fellow forum member solved that problem. I procured an acceptable core short block for $75 on which we will install our cyl head and recoup our core. As a bonus it has the main bearing brace and oil pan which are destroyed on the original engine.
So we began tear down the engine for removal. With the valve cover removed we found this..
Looking closely there is a bit of coolant next to the valve spring signifying a cracked head. This is common on '00-'01 4.0s with the 0331 casting and was probably a contributing factor in our engines demise.
After 6hrs we have the engine out and ready to transfer covers, pulleys, clutch, etc.
Like my homemade engine attachment for the hoist.
I will document more in-depth as we swap the necessary parts from one engine to the other.
|11-06-2013 06:43 AM|
|All Terrain JK||In the very first post we mentioned that JeepKing hydro-locked his engine. I think the Devil has come for his due. Some internal parts of his 4.0L decided to become external.|
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