|08-07-2013 11:30 PM|
|123Jato||Started new thread about rigid vs others because i myself don't like it when I ask a question then people go talking about other things.|
|08-07-2013 11:01 PM|
|08-07-2013 10:58 PM|
|123Jato||Sorry I derailed this thread.|
|08-07-2013 08:43 PM|
This isn't a which is better or why rigid thread...
I ran the ground down the poison spyder mount for a ground and the power through the roof as aforementioned.
|08-07-2013 08:39 PM|
|08-07-2013 07:55 AM|
Hmmm this seems like a black mark here:
Lifetime LED current draw 20A@12V,9A@24V
vs. Rigid who is 14.44A@12VDC
But with that said I would go with Lifetime LED's too though...
|08-07-2013 01:18 AM|
I just ran mine over the roof seal the way Rigid suggests...
No leaks yet.
|08-06-2013 09:48 PM|
|2five22||JayDee is right. You need to cut out the Deutsch connector, solder the connecting wires together, and use heat-shrink to insulate them.|
|08-06-2013 09:25 PM|
|JayDee||Here is what I did. As much as I hated to cut the harness 2 pin connector off I cut the harness a few inches from the light at the correct length so I could hide the connection between the oem harness and the one I made behind the top of the light bracket . I then used the wiring supplied with the light and made my own harness using heat shrink tubing making sure that the wires were flat and not twisted in the tubing, this resulted in the harness being small enough to fit snugly in the gap between the windsheild and the frame. I thought that I may have a problem with the wing blowing the harness out of place buy it fits tight enough that it stays in place .|
|08-06-2013 08:31 PM|
|123Jato||Why rigid when you can spend 1/3 on lifetime leds? Just curious. I have rigid duallys but can't wrap my head around $1500 for one light|
|08-06-2013 08:06 PM|
Rigid Ind 50" LED Bar and Wire Routing
Any tips on routing the wires?