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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-25-2014 12:59 PM
All Terrain JK Some of the mods I've done over the winter.

Moved the upper rear coil mounts. Went from this

To this

Unfortunately I didn't get a pic with the spring after the move. Next time I remove the tire I'll get one.
I also installed a JKS 1.25" body lift. This is to make clearance for the 35s and an upcoming Brown Dog 1.5" MML.
03-25-2014 09:53 AM
All Terrain JK Been quite a while since I've updated this so it will take a couple posts to bring current.
I scrapped the idea of using on 8.8 and sold the axle. Instead I bought an XJ D44 for $200. Also picked up an XJ HP30 complete for $100. So my future axles are ready to be built. Unfortunately with my daughter's wedding and son's graduation they will have to wait until next winter. More to follow.
11-26-2013 08:49 AM
All Terrain JK Pics didn't post, imagine that.

Attachment 545930



Attachment 545938



Attachment 545922



Attachment 545946



Attachment 545954
11-26-2013 08:37 AM
All Terrain JK Recently I had to remove my passenger side front brake caliper to replace a broken lug stud. Unfortunately when I removed the upper caliper bolt the threads came with it. This was on a Tuesday and and I had a wheelin trip planned on Friday. I knew mrblaine (black magic brakes) has a fix kit for this, unfortunately it wouldn't make it from California to Michigan in time. With some frantic Googling I was able to find a write up for the repair. All of the credit for the design of this repair goes to mrblaine.
I went to Fastenal and purchased two EZLOK M8-1.25 theaded inserts pn 650-8 for $2.90 ea. Also purchased two M8- 1.25x70mm bolts and one M8-1.25 nut.
Using a 27/64 bit I drilled out the caliper hole as straight as possible.

Attachment 545738

I then tapped the hole 1/2-13 using no lubricant.

Attachment 545746

With the hole prepped I threaded the insert on the new bolt using the nut as a stop. Then applied a few drops of red locktite.

Attachment 545754

As you can see the insert is externally threaded 1/2"-13. From the back side, I theraded the insert into the modified caliper hole until the nut bottomed against the knuckle. This ensures the insert is flush. It was left overnight to cure the locktite.
The next day after removing the nut I had a much more durable mounting point.

Attachment 545786

Installed the caliper and torqued to the FSM specified 11ftlbs (132 inlbs).

Attachment 545794

Quick tip: I you are going to repair one hole, repair both. As I was installing the caliper the bottom hole stripped out so I had to repeat the process. Good thing I bought two inserts as it took a day to ship.
When I build my hp30 I will either insert those knuckles or more likely reuse these.
Out of respect for mrblaine I would not have posted this information if he hadn't already on Jeeps Unlimited. That is where I found the info for this repair.
11-26-2013 05:32 AM
All Terrain JK As mentioned above this is the fixture we fabbed up to pull engines using the hoist.

Attachment 545730

I welded the critical parts and let my son practice on the other welds. He's getting pretty good. That's his '00 TJ we are installing the new long block into. His old engine decided to put the #1 connecting rod though the block and oil pan. We documented the swap in his build thread that is linked "restoration" in my sig.
10-30-2013 08:14 AM
BLK00TJ Most useful mod ever!
10-30-2013 07:28 AM
All Terrain JK It took me 2hrs to unload it myself, that bi!˘h is heavy. I had to use a come-along and a fair bit of ingenuity.
My son and his buddy helped me assemble it, took 8hrs or so including wiring. I have already used it several times for different vehicles and it is AWESOME!

Attachment 474450

Also works great for removing or installing tubs.

Attachment 474458

I am also building a fixture to allow me t use it to remove and install engines. We are installing a long block in my son's '00 TJ. That will be documented in his build thread (linked restoration in my sig) but I will post a pic of the engine being pulled here.
10-30-2013 07:03 AM
All Terrain JK I have a new garage mod that is going to make future Jeep mods much easier, an Atlas 9000lbs two post auto hoist. Purchased from Greg Smith Equipment in Indianapolis, cost $2200 shipped. The crate weighted 1600lbs, since I have no means to unload a semi at home, I picked it up at the trucking terminal.
10-30-2013 06:45 AM
All Terrain JK
Quote:
Originally Posted by Water Dog View Post

I'm pretty sure he doesn't.... Wow, nice write up, I'm fired up now. I'll have to order some parts.
Thanks, I've been meaning to ask you about that.
Here's the rest of the front bumper pics. Btw I incorrectly posted earlier in this thread that the rear bumper was 3/16" wall. Both bumpers are 1/4" wall and the swing-out frame is 3/16" wall. I tried to edit but the moment had past.
Front bumper with mounts and grinding done, ready for paint.

Attachment 474386

After two coats of self etching primer and three of Rustoleum bed liner I installed it.

Attachment 474410

Looks much slimmer and cleaner than this.

Attachment 474418

I also add two extra mounts at the bottom that bolt to tabs welded to the round crossmember.

Attachment 474434



Attachment 474426

These are to help distribute the stress while being toad. The bumper is attached using 8 1/2" bolts, 6 into the frame and 2 in the crossmember.
I have toad the Jeep approximately 700mi with the new bumper and it works great. The towbar is completely level and brake cables perfectly inline.
10-29-2013 01:27 PM
Water Dog
Quote:
Originally Posted by All Terrain TJ View Post
Quoted from Ready Brute's FAQ page.

The Ready Brake pulls hard enough on the brake pedal to over-come the vacuum booster not being powered up. We have been making this system since may of 1997 and have sold thousands of them trust us when we say the Ready Brake will work perfectly fine with the power booster not being powered up. All cars sold have a power booster now days it is not be an issue.
Frequently Asked Questions - NSA RV Products

When I was initially adjusting my setup it was a bit to tight, stood my Jeep on its nose. Before towing I pump the brake pedal to bleed off the residual vacuum, otherwise the brakes are to touchy the first couple stops.
Now I'm curious if Water Dog uses an auxiliary vac pump.
I'm pretty sure he doesn't.... Wow, nice write up, I'm fired up now. I'll have to order some parts.
10-07-2013 07:44 AM
All Terrain JK Attachment 410993

Tack welding the towbar brackets.

Attachment 411001

Shackle and towbar mounts fully welded both sides. Test fitting the Blue Ox towbar adapter, perfect fit.

Attachment 411025

Also angled the ends.
10-07-2013 07:32 AM
All Terrain JK For the front bumper I will be incorporating towbar brackets into the design.
I want a slimmer look so I started with a 3/16 wall 2x4x44" bumper blank. First I cut the holes for the towbar brackets and shackle mounts.
09-23-2013 09:05 AM
All Terrain JK Finnished welding and prepped bumper assembly for paint. Sprayed it with one coat self etching primer and two coats Rustoleum bed liner.
At the top of the A frame I added a 1/2" plate with four holes drilled in it. This is to bolt on future accessories such as a kayak carrier.

Attachment 371193

This is the driver side mount with four mounting bolts. Also shows the swing-out stop and CB mounting tab.

Attachment 371225

These are the lower mounting points. As you can see two upper bolts on each side have frame tie in brackets. This is six out of ten mounts bolted to the frame, it ain't going anywhere.

Attachment 371273

A closer look at the swing-out stop. It consists of a DOM sleeve welded into the arm that secures to a reinforced 1/2" plate. The plate is threaded 1/2-13. A grade 8 bolt locks it in place. Now that I am happy with this system I will weld a handle to the bolt and paint it.

Attachment 371281

I cut down three oem TJ rubber tire snubbers and attached them to the A frame. These help support the tire and eliminate any movement.

Attachment 371289

Here is the finished product!

Attachment 371297

It is very strong with no rattles. I also maintain good vision in my rear veiw mirror. Total cost was about $150 in material.
09-18-2013 06:58 AM
All Terrain JK Building the A frame.

Attachment 357825

Swingout mostly complete, gussets and bracing welded in.

Attachment 357833

Test fitting. Damn that tire looks big.

Attachment 357841
09-16-2013 11:21 AM
All Terrain JK Yeah I'm really leaning toward a G2 D44.
In the meantime I am building my bumpers, starting with the rear.
Built the brackets.

Attachment 352049

Laid out my bumper blank and burned in the swing-out tire carrier pivot.

Attachment 352057

Burned in my D ring mounts and hitch receiver. All hard points are though the bumper and welded on both sides.

Attachment 352081

Pressing studs though the wheel mounting plate.

Attachment 352105

Fabbing the swing-out tire carrier.

Attachment 352121
09-05-2013 07:46 PM
OmniscientHiers D44 all the way.
09-05-2013 07:29 PM
Side_Project Hmm 8.8 or g2 D44 both good options
09-05-2013 12:05 PM
All Terrain JK Getting a plan together to build new bumpers for the TJ. The rear will incorporate a spare tire swing. Since I had no spare I ordered a new Ion Alloy 133 sized 15x8. As I though about buy a new 33" tire I kept thinking that I want to step up to 35s next spring. My Jeep is all ready for them except that damn D35c. I decided I'm not spending $100 on a tire for 6mo...... So I bit the bullet and bought 5 new GY MT/RK 35x12.5s.

Attachment 315177

I traded my 33" Duratracs for my son's 31s, both sets lightly used. I then sold the 31s to a local forum member for $400. Paid $1150 otd for the 35s - $400= $750 otd. Now building the bumpers this weekend.
BTW I am on D35c death watch. I am debating to replace it with an 8.8 or a G2 D44 with ARB, 35 spline axle shafts, and disc brakes.
08-15-2013 11:48 AM
UnlimitedLJ04 interesting. thanks
08-15-2013 11:41 AM
All Terrain JK Quoted from Ready Brute's FAQ page.

The Ready Brake pulls hard enough on the brake pedal to over-come the vacuum booster not being powered up. We have been making this system since may of 1997 and have sold thousands of them trust us when we say the Ready Brake will work perfectly fine with the power booster not being powered up. All cars sold have a power booster now days it is not be an issue.
http://www.readybrake.com/faq.html

When I was initially adjusting my setup it was a bit to tight, stood my Jeep on its nose. Before towing I pump the brake pedal to bleed off the residual vacuum, otherwise the brakes are to touchy the first couple stops.
Now I'm curious if Water Dog uses an auxiliary vac pump.
08-15-2013 08:52 AM
UnlimitedLJ04 but you don't have any vacuum being built for the brake booster, so how effectively does that cable brake system work at taking stress off the RV?

maybe something like this would help too?
SSBC Electric Brake Vacuum Pump Kit
08-15-2013 08:38 AM
All Terrain JK Here is a pic of the equipment that stays on the Jeep.

Attachment 286123

The red box and loop are the breakaway. It is attached to the pedal as well.
Middle loop is the supplemental brake.
The mounting brackets.
Look above the pass side mount in the corner of the winch plate and you can see the 4 flat trailer connection for lights.
08-15-2013 08:24 AM
All Terrain JK
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
do you have an RV-operated brake setup for the Jeep? if so, what do you use and how did you set it up?
I do. The towbar is the Ready Brute Elite. It comes with a mechanical surge system actuated via inertia. It use a lever on the towbar to pull an aircraft cable. That is the clear cable in the above pic. The ac cable connects to a sheathed cable permanently attached to the jeep the end of which is attached to the toad brake pedal. Here is a link that explains it better.
http://www.readybrake.com/tow-bars.html
I also have the breakaway kit (red cable) from the same manufacturer.
The best price I was able to find was from
http://www.towbarsunlimited.com/page/page/286216.htm
I use Blue Ox universal mounting plates
http://www.blueox.com/p-677-universa...class-iii.aspx
Which you can get cheaper at the other link.
Another forum member, Water Dog has been using this setup for a while. He recommended it to me. If you have any other questions or want better pics let me know.
08-15-2013 07:45 AM
UnlimitedLJ04 do you have an RV-operated brake setup for the Jeep? if so, what do you use and how did you set it up?
08-15-2013 07:33 AM
All Terrain JK Heat shrink tubing, huh, I never made the connection. I will do that when I install the shift boot.
Your shifter knob and boot combo look great.
08-15-2013 07:09 AM
Big Sarge Thanks for the great review and advertisement. I actually I usually recommend that people use the nut from the stock shifter to put underneath as a jam nut to help prevent theft. I did the same on mine then used a piece of shrink tubing to go over the nut.
08-14-2013 08:19 AM
Side_Project great job I can watch this all day.
08-14-2013 08:09 AM
All Terrain JK Thinking my interior looked a little bland (:P) I ordered an orange #5 pool ball shifter knob from Big Sarge who is a commercial member here on WF.
It cost $20 shipped. I sent my money Wed night, had a tracking # Thu morning, and received my order in Sat mail. He even PMed me to confirm it was delivered. That's service.
It arrived well packaged and in great condition.
When I removed the old shifter knob the threads on the shifter rod were distorted so I chased them with a die. The 5 ball fit perfectly. The only slight problem was the 5 was not in the 12 o'clock position when tight. Easily fixed. I bought a 10X1.5 mm stainless steel nut, ground it round, and wire wheeled it smooth.

Attachment 285696

I used it as a jam nut to adjust ball clocking.

Attachment 285697

Worked excellent.
It's hard to show the color because it reflects light but it matches my interior almost perfectly.

Attachment 285698

I am very satisfied with it. Also glad to support a forum member. I'm going to get a matching shifter boot from another member.
08-14-2013 07:31 AM
All Terrain JK This is my camping/Jeeping combo in it's current form.

Attachment 285692

I also have a 20' car hauler but that can be a pita. A lot of campsites arn't big enough for a 55' (combined) rig. The towbar is also much quicker and easier to hook up.
The biggest drawback was I had no place to carry firewood. I had an old roof mount cargo carrier that hadn't been used in years so I built a frame that slides into my 2" receiver hitch. The carrier mounts to that and holds a good weekends firewood keeping it dry. It's installed in the pick.
08-07-2013 07:32 AM
All Terrain JK Been awhile since I've updated and I installed a couple of mods so I figured I'd post them up.
I installed a set of Rugged Ridge tube doors.

Attachment 282764

I won't go into too much detail here except to say that I love them. I wrote a review thread on these if you're interested click here.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/rugg...ew-258241.html

I have round LED tail lights which draw significantly less amperage then the factory incandescent bulbs. The OEM flasher has an outage feature which detects when a bulb is burned out by sensing reduced amperage draw. The LED's do not draw enough and sent the flasher in the rapid blink mode. On my 98 TJ a simple mod to the flasher corrects this problem. Here is my flasher after the mod.

Attachment 282765

It's pretty hard to see but I cut one of the connections which effectively removed the outage feature. Here is the write up from Stu Olson's site which I followed.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/electrical/led1/led-3.htm
Took about 20 minutes and now I have regular blinking turn signals.

One other major thing that I've done is I set my Jeep up for flat towing. I will be doing a write up as well as a product review on this very soon so I'll just post a pic up here.

Attachment 282767

This is the Ready Brute Elite tow bar system by NSA products. It has a mechanical surge and breakaway braking system which is legal in all 50 states. After initial install it takes literally 2 minutes to hook up. I love this thing and I'll post a link when I do the write up.
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