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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-18-2013 11:35 AM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrussblues View Post
Okay, unless you shave the axle...you're TJ steering won't fit. I would plan on that from the get go.
I should be able to use some parts of the TJ and some parts from the JK, and make the rest since I can set up the brackets. Obviously some won't be long enough like the drag link but my tie rod might have enough adjustment to go out that long, although I will probably be replacing it at that point anyways. I just meant the TJ style steering not the exact setup, I guess I should have said that. Obviously the same parts wont work. What would I need to shave?
08-18-2013 11:15 AM
jrussblues
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post

Nice. I'm hoping to find an older beat up 44 to swap in but they do seem to be expensive since they are rare and an easy swap for a jk with a 30.

It will be getting all new brackets so I would just set it up with tj steering and the steering itself would be mine to start and something like ruff stuff later with DOM and a good joint like JJs and heims. So looks like ball joints are the big one. I might end up with a 30 housing instead considering I can build it close to the 44 strength and the money I save from a 44 would almost pay for the beef. My main concern is the u joint not the gears. I'm gona look for a 44 for a whole though as that would be much nicer.

Thanks for the info guys.
Okay, unless you shave the axle...you're TJ steering won't fit. I would plan on that from the get go.
08-17-2013 06:34 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by spieg View Post

No prob. It was a dana44 housing with about 1650 miles on it. Swapped the axles/gears/brakes/etc over to the pr44.
Nice. I'm hoping to find an older beat up 44 to swap in but they do seem to be expensive since they are rare and an easy swap for a jk with a 30.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrussblues View Post

The factory tre's and ball joints are garbage, I have seen both fail as low as 12 k miles. From tj to jk they fixed the crappy steering linkage and screwed up all of the joints in design.
Sorry if the before post was confusing. Dynatrac are prob the beefiest aftermarket joints from what I've seen but all others seem to hold up fairly well...although I'm sure someone will chime in with some exceptions.
As you you already know, the steering won't cross over to your TJ, but I'm sure you can find a way to make something work. Also, if you are running a fair amount of lift you may want to look at flipping the drag link and raising the track bar in the front. It will lead to better steering. I know genright and teraflex both make adjustable track bar brackets.
It will be getting all new brackets so I would just set it up with tj steering and the steering itself would be mine to start and something like ruff stuff later with DOM and a good joint like JJs and heims. So looks like ball joints are the big one. I might end up with a 30 housing instead considering I can build it close to the 44 strength and the money I save from a 44 would almost pay for the beef. My main concern is the u joint not the gears. I'm gona look for a 44 for a whole though as that would be much nicer.

Thanks for the info guys.
08-17-2013 05:08 PM
jrussblues
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
If it provides that much comic relief to you I don't see any reason to stop the rest of your post is confusing. I take it you're saying some aftermarket ball joints go around 12k?

BJs!!!!

Spieg thanks for chiming in. They paid 800 for a 30 or 44 housing? I'm guessing 30 since you went to a 44.

WMS is wheel mounting surface.
The factory tre's and ball joints are garbage, I have seen both fail as low as 12 k miles. From tj to jk they fixed the crappy steering linkage and screwed up all of the joints in design.
Sorry if the before post was confusing. Dynatrac are prob the beefiest aftermarket joints from what I've seen but all others seem to hold up fairly well...although I'm sure someone will chime in with some exceptions.
As you you already know, the steering won't cross over to your TJ, but I'm sure you can find a way to make something work. Also, if you are running a fair amount of lift you may want to look at flipping the drag link and raising the track bar in the front. It will lead to better steering. I know genright and teraflex both make adjustable track bar brackets.
08-17-2013 04:19 PM
spieg
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
Spieg thanks for chiming in. They paid 800 for a 30 or 44 housing? I'm guessing 30 since you went to a 44.

WMS is wheel mounting surface.
No prob. It was a dana44 housing with about 1650 miles on it. Swapped the axles/gears/brakes/etc over to the pr44.
08-17-2013 03:49 PM
nwbronco
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stosh1 View Post
What is WMS.........."With Mud Stuck" ??


Wheel Mounting Surface.

Bob K.
08-17-2013 02:59 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Allibaster View Post
I had a 30 with 8,000 miles listed on Craigslist for $100 and couldn't move the thing. $800 for a factory 44 is a steal.
I would have bought your 30 for that if it were the right gears. 800 is a pretty good price depending on the age/state of the axle.
08-17-2013 02:30 PM
Allibaster I had a 30 with 8,000 miles listed on Craigslist for $100 and couldn't move the thing. $800 for a factory 44 is a steal.
08-17-2013 01:37 PM
GoldenSahara00 If it provides that much comic relief to you I don't see any reason to stop the rest of your post is confusing. I take it you're saying some aftermarket ball joints go around 12k?

BJs!!!!





Spieg thanks for chiming in. They paid 800 for a 30 or 44 housing? I'm guessing 30 since you went to a 44.

WMS is wheel mounting surface.
08-17-2013 12:04 PM
Stosh1 What is WMS.........."With Mud Stuck" ??
08-17-2013 12:03 PM
spieg I swapped to a PR44 and if I remember right I got $800 for my stock housing from the shop that did the swap. I went with the Dynatrac ball joints just so I wouldnt have to worry about them again for a long time (hopefully never). Id say the weakest point in my front axle is probably the u-joints. Ill swap out to RCV's eventually and that will move the weak point to the carrier probably.
08-17-2013 11:47 AM
jrussblues
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
I'm see PP and dynatrac as options. How long do these grease able and expensive BJs hold up.
Please...fully spell out ball joints from here on out...this is one of the funniest posts I have read in a long time.
The aftermarket ones hold up very well, I believe jp mag has an online description of all the popular replacements online, it's a good read.
As for the axle...internally it's pretty beefy, but much like some of the other joints on Jk's...just garbage...have seen them go bad on jeeps with as few as 12k miles...sadly.
08-17-2013 11:36 AM
kjeeper10 Poly/synergy

Alloy USA

DT

TF now has a joint

No failure story's I no of with any.
08-17-2013 11:29 AM
GoldenSahara00 I'm see PP and dynatrac as options. How long do these grease able and expensive BJs hold up.
08-17-2013 10:33 AM
GoldenSahara00 What's the replacement options look like?
08-17-2013 07:59 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post

I don't want a prorock 44. I want a jk 30/44. Unless you're selling it for the price of a jk44

That's kind of sad. These are supposed to be the beefiest 44s that have been built. How are guys running 37 and 40 inch tires on these axles with such crappy ball joints?
They do but not for long lol

They are sealed unlike TJ joints. Mine were going at 30k with little off road use.
08-17-2013 07:39 AM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Allibaster View Post
I've got a ProRock44 I'm selling. Just pulled it out of my old JK before I traded it. It was installed less than a year. PM if interested.
I don't want a prorock 44. I want a jk 30/44. Unless you're selling it for the price of a jk44

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrussblues View Post

The ball joints are worse than tj's, I have alloy USA, some run synergy, same companies that make them for tj's.
That's kind of sad. These are supposed to be the beefiest 44s that have been built. How are guys running 37 and 40 inch tires on these axles with such crappy ball joints?
08-17-2013 01:56 AM
jrussblues
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
I'm asking for specific instances of what someone sold their 30/44 for, I know the general ballpark figures. I was thinking 300 for the 30 and 700-800 on the d44 front, assuming these are the best deals I'd find. I don't care about the rear axle or the set, but I know what you mean. I have viewed the Cs and tubes as the weak points. Wasn't sure on the BJs, are they worse than the tjs? I've seen a few of these swaps done to tjs and the guys seem to love them for a mid width axle. I actually found all the info I was looking for before anyone replied to this thread, it took like 40 threads to get a definite WMS measurement though.

What are people doing about the balljoints. The c gussets and sleeves take care of the other issues. I'm viewing it as an alternative to shortening a 60 because it has the strongest u joints of any 30/44 out there. Much cheaper than the 60 en devour and I can work with the 65" WMS.
The ball joints are worse than tj's, I have alloy USA, some run synergy, same companies that make them for tj's.
08-16-2013 11:38 PM
Allibaster I've got a ProRock44 I'm selling. Just pulled it out of my old JK before I traded it. It was installed less than a year. PM if interested.
08-16-2013 08:46 PM
GoldenSahara00 I'm asking for specific instances of what someone sold their 30/44 for, I know the general ballpark figures. I was thinking 300 for the 30 and 700-800 on the d44 front, assuming these are the best deals I'd find. I don't care about the rear axle or the set, but I know what you mean. I have viewed the Cs and tubes as the weak points. Wasn't sure on the BJs, are they worse than the tjs? I've seen a few of these swaps done to tjs and the guys seem to love them for a mid width axle. I actually found all the info I was looking for before anyone replied to this thread, it took like 40 threads to get a definite WMS measurement though.

What are people doing about the balljoints. The c gussets and sleeves take care of the other issues. I'm viewing it as an alternative to shortening a 60 because it has the strongest u joints of any 30/44 out there. Much cheaper than the 60 en devour and I can work with the 65" WMS.
08-16-2013 08:09 PM
jrussblues It all depends on which axle you are selling and what it came out of. A set of rubi axles could easily go for 2k, a set of non rubi axles are prob worth about 500 just because nobody would really want them as an upgrade.
The front axle is the weaker of the two, the passenger side tube of the front axle is the weakest tube and the inner c's that hold the knuckles are a weak point. Additionally, jk ball joints are garbage.
The difference in the axle housing between a 30 and 44 front is only the chunk and there are several companies that make several products that can be used to beef up the front axle. The shafts and internals are of course different. The big seller for rubi axles is the gearing, lockers and scarcity.
08-16-2013 07:49 PM
GoldenSahara00
General JK front axle questions.

While I am getting some of this info, I'm also getting some inconsistencies. I spent the last hour looking this stuff up. If you can give me some FACTS I would appreciate it. You guys are a good gang.

What is the WMS-WMS on the front 30/44?

How much are you folks selling your axles for when you swap them out for something bigger (prorock 44s, 60 swaps, etc)?

What would you say is the weakest point on your axle (state which axle)

Thanks for your help!

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