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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-18-2013 06:03 PM
Water Dog They used two different coils. One is from Diamond, and the other from Toyodenso. If you have the Diamond, the primary resistance should be between .97 and 1.18 ohms, and the secondary resistance should be between 11,300 and 15,300 ohms. The Toyodenso specs for the primary are .95 to 1.2 ohms, and the secondary is 11,300 to 13,300 ohms.
08-18-2013 04:17 PM
HarleyG227 PS:
Do you know how I would go about testing the Ignition Coil? And the specifications?
I'm looking around google and I'm coming up with a whole bunch of nothing.
08-18-2013 04:07 PM
HarleyG227
Quote:
Originally Posted by horsedad58 View Post
Before I did anything else I would check your various ground straps. The lead from the battery to the engine and the engine to the frame. I have seen more electrical gremlins caused by bad grounds than any other single item. Lose the engine to chassis ground and you will crank but every thing else will be dead. Gauges, computer, etc...

Best way to check is with a Volt-Ohm meter (VOM) set to measure resistance. Connect or hold one lead to the negative battery terminal and then touch the other to the engine block and then on to a body bolt. The reading will vary but it should be very low, ideally less than 1 ohm.

Good luck, electrical issues are the pits...
Well thank you for the information.
Going to go check the grounds now, but I have a bad feeling it's just something shorting out something, but I don't know what.

Electrical issues are pits. Just completely horrible.
08-18-2013 03:41 PM
horsedad58 PS, I have an 05... my engine to chassis ground strap is on a stud at the drivers side back if the head. I don't know if your 98'sis in the same spot.
08-18-2013 03:38 PM
horsedad58 Before I did anything else I would check your various ground straps. The lead from the battery to the engine and the engine to the frame. I have seen more electrical gremlins caused by bad grounds than any other single item. Lose the engine to chassis ground and you will crank but every thing else will be dead. Gauges, computer, etc...

Best way to check is with a Volt-Ohm meter (VOM) set to measure resistance. Connect or hold one lead to the negative battery terminal and then touch the other to the engine block and then on to a body bolt. The reading will vary but it should be very low, ideally less than 1 ohm.

Good luck, electrical issues are the pits...
08-18-2013 03:07 PM
HarleyG227
1998 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Help Wanted

I have a 1998 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Edition 4.0L and all of a sudden one day it died.

I was driving along to my sisters graduation and the air conditioner started blowing warm air, so I turned it off. After a few more miles I turned it on and It worked normally, for awhile until it stopped working all together.
After a few more miles of driving my gauges dropped down to 0. Fuel Gauge, oil, everything, then the jeep died.
I tried to start it up afterwards and it would turn over, but not start, and the gauges still wouldn't work. After I got home I purchased a new fuel pump and placed that in, only for it not to work AGAIN! I decided to check the voltage going to the pump and found there was none.I then tried scanning the Jeep with my scan tool and it wouldn't communicate.

I replaced the PCM, because everything else was leading to it.

After I installed the PCM, I hooked the battery cables back up and the PCM blew up.

I now suspect it is the Ignition coil.

I am not completely sure on how to test the coil with my Ohmmeter, so could someone help me with the procedure and the specifications that the coil should be at?

It is a 1998 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Edition, and I would really like to get it back on the road, it's been around 2 weeks since it's been on the road and I miss driving the thing.

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