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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-15-2013 12:51 PM
supercazzola
Quote:
Originally Posted by BILLET SILVER View Post
Drove a 2013 Sahara yesterday with 2.5" lift, 3.21 and Toyot Open Country AT'2 35's. The Jeep did not have the ProCal done yet. It really did not seem sluggish at all and it cruised along at 65-70 on the interstate with no searching for OD. Just an observation....from a newbie, the trails could reveal a much different story. On the street very tolerable. I guess its all what you want out of the Jeep...having said this. I am on the calendar for an install of an AEV 3.5" lift and BFG AT's 315/70/17 on AEV Argents and ProCal.
2 door or 4 door?
11-13-2013 02:48 PM
BILLET SILVER [QUOTE=BILLET SILVER;6065586]Drove a 2013 Sahara yesterday with 2.5" lift, 3.21 and Toyot Open Country AT'2 35's. The Jeep did not have the ProCal done yet.

It really did not seem sluggish at all and it cruised along at 65-70 on the interstate with no searching for OD. Just an observation....from a newbie,
the trails could reveal a much different story. On the street very tolerable.

I guess its all what you want out of the Jeep...having said this. I am on the calendar for an install of an AEV 3.5" lift and BFG AT's 315/70/17 on AEV Argents and ProCal, and a future re-gear.
11-13-2013 02:27 PM
Chx beach 79 Regear!!! It woke my Jeep up!!! You won't regret it!!!!
11-12-2013 10:37 AM
BILLET SILVER Drove a 2013 Sahara yesterday with 2.5" lift, 3.21 and Toyot Open Country AT'2 35's. The Jeep did not have the ProCal done yet.

It really did not seem sluggish at all and it cruised along at 65-70 on the interstate with no searching for OD. Just an observation....from a newbie,
the trails could reveal a much different story. On the street very tolerable.

I guess its all what you want out of the Jeep...having said this. I am on the calendar for an install of an AEV 3.5" lift and BFG AT's 315/70/17 on AEV Argents and ProCal.
08-24-2013 09:34 PM
jadmt
Quote:
Originally Posted by pablorg View Post
Do you have to get new spider gears when going from the 3.21 carrier to the 3.73&up carrier? I heard you didn't have to...
What parts (if any) can you reuse from a practically new (stock) 3.21 geared Dana 30? Thanks,

Pablo
you are correct you do not need new spider gears.
08-24-2013 09:30 PM
pablorg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chx beach 79 View Post
I don't know where you guys are getting all the parts to regear for $600 but let me know...$600 will get you just the ring and pinion. Remember if you are going from 3.21 you will need all the parts for the carriers and the install kits. Everything ran me around $900 for just the parts, and that was straight from Yukon (Randy's ring and pinion). Then labor. And don't forget if you are going from a 3.21 you will need the parts to run a limited slip for additional $400 or a locker additional $700-$1,000 plus labor, I will be lucky to get out of there spending $2200 with labor.
Do you have to get new spider gears when going from the 3.21 carrier to the 3.73&up carrier? I heard you didn't have to...
What parts (if any) can you reuse from a practically new (stock) 3.21 geared Dana 30? Thanks,

Pablo
08-24-2013 08:42 PM
mallaki
Quote:
Originally Posted by HK_Runner View Post
There is a US-made gear in 4.88. US Gear. They use a different/softer steel and cost ~twice as much ($400+ per axle). In 4.56, it is all made by CHA in Korea and re-boxed for different manufacturers (Yukon, G2, Nitro...), from what I understand.
NONE of the aftermarket gears for JKU are made in the USA!
I have researched that for some time now. The U.S Gear 4.88 are NOT made in the USA!!
08-24-2013 07:53 PM
mallaki
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chx beach 79 View Post
That's not a bad price... I didn't think to look into the g2's. As far as the limited slip or locker, you are right it doesn't have to be done. IMO it's not worth lifting it and putting big tires on it if it doesn't have at least a limited slip. Unless of course it is used strictly for shows or some sort of advertising. Plus it won't really add much more time to labor doing while regearing but if it is done later it will cost almost as much labor as the regear itself. Just my 2 cents, I could be way off base.
To have the Yukon gears installed would cost me $1,000.00.
With front and rear Yukon Zips lockers (plus needed ARB CKSA12 Air Compressor and sPod 6 switches system) it comes up to almost $3,800.00.

so, as you can see its a big step in $$$
08-24-2013 02:45 PM
jadmt
Quote:
Originally Posted by OffRoadCam09 View Post
You can call bs all you want. I know what my jeeps setup is an what mpg I'm gettin last tank was half highway at 60 mph an half city an got 19.3 mpg. I usually average around 18.3 mpg mostly all city driving
I have an unlimited with 3.21 and auto (2013) with 33" tires and I always get around 20mpg hand figured. I calculate every tank full so I believe you are getting what you say. I recalibrated mine with AEV procal and both speedo and odometer are spot on.
08-24-2013 02:41 PM
OffRoadCam09
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chx beach 79 View Post

Did you recalibrate for tire size? Possibly over calibrate. Are you driving mostly downhill?
Correctly calibrated to 33.5" which is how tall my bfg km1's are mounted on the jeep an I'm sounded by mountains an I'm in pretty hilly terrain but I do drive with a light foot
08-24-2013 02:33 PM
Chx beach 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by OffRoadCam09 View Post

You can call bs all you want. I know what my jeeps setup is an what mpg I'm gettin last tank was half highway at 60 mph an half city an got 19.3 mpg. I usually average around 18.3 mpg mostly all city driving
Did you recalibrate for tire size? Possibly over calibrate. Are you driving mostly downhill?
08-24-2013 02:31 PM
OffRoadCam09
Quote:
Originally Posted by lando76 View Post

I call BS on this one.
You can call bs all you want. I know what my jeeps setup is an what mpg I'm gettin last tank was half highway at 60 mph an half city an got 19.3 mpg. I usually average around 18.3 mpg mostly all city driving
08-24-2013 01:09 PM
lando76
Quote:
Originally Posted by OffRoadCam09 View Post
You'll be fine. I have 3.21's with 35x12.50x15's an a 2.5" lift an mine pulls just fine. Also got 19.3 mpg on my last tank of gas

I call BS on this one.
08-24-2013 12:16 PM
HK_Runner There is a US-made gear in 4.88. US Gear. They use a different/softer steel and cost ~twice as much ($400+ per axle). In 4.56, it is all made by CHA in Korea and re-boxed for different manufacturers (Yukon, G2, Nitro...), from what I understand.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mallaki View Post
So the bottom line here:
Is it worth spending 1K on re-gearing??

I have 2012 JKU with 35" and 3.21. I am almost convinced to re-gear to 4.88 - Yukon brand (made in Korea) as there are NO USA Made regardless of what anybody tells you.
The whole thing will cost me around 1K if not a little more with tax. I drive on-road and sometimes take it off-road. I am from NYC and the closest off-road is Rausch almost 4h away.

I am ok with the way my jeep drives now. Different people will tell you completely different things on this and other forums. You have to believe someone. I am getting mixed information. I know that to be on the "safer" side itís wise to re-gear, however, is it worth to spend 1K??

What are the real benefits?

1. Will my MPG improve?
2. Am I in risk to kill my transmission?
3. Will it be lauder with new gears (again, different people will have different say here. I even talked to Dynatrac, Ring & Pinion and few more) and it looks like it will be a bit lauder!

Anyway, I know itís probably better to re-gear. I donít want to be one of these: ďI donít know what that is but I know I f***n need itĒ

So, again I will repeat. Is it worth spending 1K on re-gearing?
08-24-2013 11:53 AM
jkmohican
Quote:
Originally Posted by mallaki View Post
how much different is that from Traction Control? (TC or ETC)??
Your stock traction control has BLD which very similar to a LSD except you have it front and rear, and it uses the brakes to stop each wheel instead of the wheels mechanically stopping.
08-24-2013 10:50 AM
mallaki how much different is that from Traction Control? (TC or ETC)??
08-24-2013 10:21 AM
Chx beach 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by mallaki View Post
I will add the front and rear lockers options as mentioned above. As far the Limited Split Differential LSD, do I have that on my Jeep 2012 JKU Sport or not. Is the LSD same as or similar to Traction Control?
here is screen capture of little of my MSRP
With a 3.21 it does not come with a limited slip. I have the same set up.
08-24-2013 10:16 AM
mallaki I will add the front and rear lockers options as mentioned above. As far the Limited Split Differential LSD, do I have that on my Jeep 2012 JKU Sport or not. Is the LSD same as or similar to Traction Control?
here is screen capture of little of my MSRP
08-24-2013 09:44 AM
Chx beach 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by mallaki View Post
I will be taking my jeep to Globex Performance in Toms River, NJ.
Not to spam or advertise them, but this is what they advertise in the 1K package:

this is the picture of the Special (yes, its still going) and below is the link to another forums thread:
Took my XJ to Globex Performance in Toms River NJ.... - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
That is a heckuva deal! I wish I had someone local that would do that! That is for both axles?
08-24-2013 09:40 AM
mallaki I will be taking my jeep to Globex Performance in Toms River, NJ.
Not to spam or advertise them, but this is what they advertise in the 1K package:

this is the picture of the Special (yes, its still going) and below is the link to another forums thread:
Took my XJ to Globex Performance in Toms River NJ.... - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
08-23-2013 09:27 PM
ave8er
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel_M View Post
Wow wrong information on so many levels. Gear ratio isnít about stronger vs. weaker to push or pull anything. The 3.21 is a street only gear ratio. Think of the rotations it takes to spin your tires vs. the size of the tires. The 3.21ís come on sports with what 29Ē tires? It takes 3.21 rotations to spin that 29Ē tire 1 time, now you just added 35Ē tires, a lot bigger than 29ís. now that extra rotational mass doesnít make a full rotation in that 3.21 gear ratio. Thatís why you lose final gear/OD and your speedo is off. Also why there is a chart and a range of what gear ratios should be given a tire size. There isnít an exact right answer to what the ratio should be. Some guys want better mpg, some guys want more performance on or off road.

On the 3.6L Pentastar I would want at least 4.10 to push my 35ís but probably would re-gear to 4.56. At no point are 3.21 ok to push 35ís. I guarantee you lost your crawl.

Also aftermarket gears being louder if set up properly??? LMAO. No wayÖIncorrect. You will hear and feel no difference (except for in performance of course).

-Dan
Dan, gear ratio is about mechanical advantage so yeah, it is about stronger to pull something. The speedo is off because it is all calibrated by rotations per mile using the output at the transfer case so changing the tire size or gear ratio messes it up. Cheap aftermarket gears may and probably will be noisier than OE gears and a numerically higher gear ratio has a tendency to be louder than numerically lower gear ratio simply because the pinion gear is spinning faster. If you don't have a rubicon transfer case, you got no crawl...
08-23-2013 08:42 PM
live_slow I think something to think about for you guys getting serious about regearing is lockers while you're in there.

I learned this the "hard way".

On my XJ, I was in deep for going up to 4.56:1. I had spent the money on lift, tires, SYE, custom driveshaft, rear disk conversion, and I cut a corner by getting a "lunchbox" easy locker for the rear and leaving the front diff. open.

I should have either done a bigger budget selectable locker (air), or gone with the Eaton true trac front and rear as a solid compromise.

Just something to think about for your application / plans.
08-23-2013 05:26 PM
JeepHerz
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chx beach 79 View Post
That's not a bad price... I didn't think to look into the g2's. As far as the limited slip or locker, you are right it doesn't have to be done. IMO it's not worth lifting it and putting big tires on it if it doesn't have at least a limited slip. Unless of course it is used strictly for shows or some sort of advertising. Plus it won't really add much more time to labor doing while regearing but if it is done later it will cost almost as much labor as the regear itself. Just my 2 cents, I could be way off base.
Totally agree on the locker or LSD. But so many people slap on big tires just for looks....they wouldn't know what a locker or LSD is for. (Trippin'?).

Got the G2s from Rebel Off Road for the best price. At that time G2 was one of the only places that had 4.56s- and had them in stock.
08-23-2013 05:14 PM
Chx beach 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHerz View Post

Limited slip or a locker is not required or needed to change gears- if that's what you mean. Makes sense while you are in there though.
$600-$700 in G2 gears, carrier, install kit.
That's not a bad price... I didn't think to look into the g2's. As far as the limited slip or locker, you are right it doesn't have to be done. IMO it's not worth lifting it and putting big tires on it if it doesn't have at least a limited slip. Unless of course it is used strictly for shows or some sort of advertising. Plus it won't really add much more time to labor doing while regearing but if it is done later it will cost almost as much labor as the regear itself. Just my 2 cents, I could be way off base.
08-23-2013 01:48 PM
JeepHerz
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chx beach 79 View Post
I don't know where you guys are getting all the parts to regear for $600 but let me know...$600 will get you just the ring and pinion. Remember if you are going from 3.21 you will need all the parts for the carriers and the install kits. Everything ran me around $900 for just the parts, and that was straight from Yukon (Randy's ring and pinion). Then labor. And don't forget if you are going from a 3.21 you will need the parts to run a limited slip for additional $400 or a locker additional $700-$1,000 plus labor, I will be lucky to get out of there spending $2200 with labor.
Limited slip or a locker is not required or needed to change gears- if that's what you mean. Makes sense while you are in there though.
$600-$700 in G2 gears, carrier, install kit.
08-22-2013 06:25 PM
Chx beach 79 I don't know where you guys are getting all the parts to regear for $600 but let me know...$600 will get you just the ring and pinion. Remember if you are going from 3.21 you will need all the parts for the carriers and the install kits. Everything ran me around $900 for just the parts, and that was straight from Yukon (Randy's ring and pinion). Then labor. And don't forget if you are going from a 3.21 you will need the parts to run a limited slip for additional $400 or a locker additional $700-$1,000 plus labor, I will be lucky to get out of there spending $2200 with labor.
08-22-2013 05:55 PM
Daniel_M 1. Completely worth it! $1K is a good estimate. Parts will be around $600 and labor will be another $5 - 600. 4.88 will be amazing in your jeep. Your MPG will improve, you will feal the power again, you won't notice those 35's. I went with Yukon too.

2. You aren't at risk of killing your transmission now

3. They shouldn't be any louder if installed correctly.

-Dan
08-22-2013 04:25 PM
mallaki
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel_M View Post
Wow wrong information on so many levels. Gear ratio isn’t about stronger vs. weaker to push or pull anything. The 3.21 is a street only gear ratio. Think of the rotations it takes to spin your tires vs. the size of the tires. The 3.21’s come on sports with what 29” tires? It takes 3.21 rotations to spin that 29” tire 1 time, now you just added 35” tires, a lot bigger than 29’s. now that extra rotational mass doesn’t make a full rotation in that 3.21 gear ratio. That’s why you lose final gear/OD and your speedo is off. Also why there is a chart and a range of what gear ratios should be given a tire size. There isn’t an exact right answer to what the ratio should be. Some guys want better mpg, some guys want more performance on or off road.

On the 3.6L Pentastar I would want at least 4.10 to push my 35’s but probably would re-gear to 4.56. At no point are 3.21 ok to push 35’s. I guarantee you lost your crawl.

Also aftermarket gears being louder if set up properly??? LMAO. No way…Incorrect. You will hear and feel no difference (except for in performance of course).

-Dan
So the bottom line here:
Is it worth spending 1K on re-gearing??

I have 2012 JKU with 35" and 3.21. I am almost convinced to re-gear to 4.88 - Yukon brand (made in Korea) as there are NO USA Made regardless of what anybody tells you.
The whole thing will cost me around 1K if not a little more with tax. I drive on-road and sometimes take it off-road. I am from NYC and the closest off-road is Rausch almost 4h away.

I am ok with the way my jeep drives now. Different people will tell you completely different things on this and other forums. You have to believe someone. I am getting mixed information. I know that to be on the "safer" side it’s wise to re-gear, however, is it worth to spend 1K??

What are the real benefits?

1. Will my MPG improve?
2. Am I in risk to kill my transmission?
3. Will it be lauder with new gears (again, different people will have different say here. I even talked to Dynatrac, Ring & Pinion and few more) and it looks like it will be a bit lauder!

Anyway, I know it’s probably better to re-gear. I don’t want to be one of these: “I don’t know what that is but I know I f***n need it”

So, again I will repeat. Is it worth spending 1K on re-gearing?
08-22-2013 04:23 PM
mallaki So the bottom line here:
Is it worth spending 1K on re-gearing??

I have 2012 JKU with 35" and 3.21. I am almost convinced to re-gear to 4.88 - Yukon brand (made in Korea) as there are NO USA Made regardless of what anybody tells you.
The whole thing will cost me around 1K if not a little more with tax. I drive on-road and sometimes take it off-road. I am from NYC and the closest off-road is Rausch almost 4h away.

I am ok with the way my jeep drives now. Different people will tell you completely different things on this and other forums. You have to believe someone. I am getting mixed information. I know that to be on the "safer" side it’s wise to re-gear, however, is it worth to send 1K??

What are the real benefits?

1. Will my MPG improve?
2. Am I in risk to kill my transmission?
3. Will it be lauder with new gears (again, different people will have different say here. I even talked to Dynatrac, Ring & Pinion and few more) and it looks like it will be a bit lauder!

Anyway, I know it’s probably better to re-gear. I don’t want to be one of these: “I don’t know what that is but I know I f***n need it”

So, again I will repeat. Is it worth spending 1K on re-gearing?
08-22-2013 01:58 PM
302 From when I pecked around in excel I kinda figured 35's and 4:88s would be a pretty decent combo. That's what I will go with once my 33's wear out.
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