|07-29-2009 03:08 PM|
|07-29-2009 01:34 PM|
|07-28-2009 08:55 PM|
You guys are correct about 33's. My 99 had a 4" suspension and 33's and was very capable. A jeep with 33's can go most of the places mine will with 35's, but they are more susceptible to bent tie rods, dented diff covers, swiss cheese rocker panels, worse approach/departure angles, etc. Bigger is better, but definitely costs more. The bigger the tire, the smaller the rocks, right?
I recommend 4" with 33's for the budget minded Jeeper that wants a happy medium setup that isn't a pain to convince a date to climb into. They always ask, "How do I get in?" That's my strategy though. No fat chicks.
|07-28-2009 06:15 PM|
Don't be scared. If this is what you are into, be cool. Take a step back and think out what you are doing. Write out a list of what you want to do in list form.
What Do I Want To Do With My Jeep...
How Much Do I Have To Spend On This...
Need Lift, What Kind, How Tall, Long Arm, Short Arm...
What Else Are You Going To Add To The Jeep...(bumpers, spare tire and rim, winch, Hi-Lift jack, camping gear, extra parts and tools)
I do not want to scare you but a rule of thumb is (when you start to change things, things will change and need modification as well) That's were the addiction comes from.
It is not a bad thing due to the fact that you are making a perfect off-road vehicle, more versatile. In the aspect of which the vehicle is intended.(trail rated
Run with it. I think you will like it in the end. Make the list and think about what you want to do than get back with us. Make a list and get back with us........
|07-28-2009 04:51 PM|
Ive been rethinking my strategies anyway, might have to change my gameplan. I'll explain some other time.
|07-28-2009 04:44 PM|
|chewy||body lifts aren't supposed to be over an 1" if you have factory ac, due to the ac tubing and such, or at least that's what i was told sometime ago. something to keep in mind.|
|07-28-2009 02:52 PM|
What's your budget Sa'dia? It's hard to make recommendations without knowing if any of this is even possible if you don't have enough to get your Jeep ready to handle 35" tires.
Be wary of the shop, as you already know to be. Some counter sales guys will tell you that you don't need things like a SYE and CV driveshaft for a 4-5" lift if they sense you don't have the $$$ for the SYE and CV driveshaft and would lose the deal otherwise. Because then they realize you'll likely be back later to install the SYE/CV driveshaft when you find out it was really needed. Low-balling you in other words.
Other shops, if they figure out you have $$$ to burn, will load you up with all kinds of unnecessary add-ons. One older guy I knew who had the $$$ to "do it right" was screwed by the shop, they installed stuff that was ridiculous and just jacked the cost up so he was reamed. They even sold him five sets of Gorilla locking lug nuts so he'd have five locking lug nuts on each wheel instead of the usual one per wheel. And then while spending big $$$ on crap he didn't need the shop talked him into, they left the skinny tie rod and skinny drag link stock even though they had installed a very expensive suspension lift and big tires. They made him waste big $$$ on unnecessary items while leaving off some very important upgrades that shold have been installed.
Be very wary and ask about any advice they offer. Don't buy anything without asking here about it first. Heck several of us here, me included, would be willing to talk with you on the phone once you get to a critical decision point and need quick advice.
|07-28-2009 02:47 PM|
|Sb5551||^ What he said. Except SYE/CV driveshaft doesn't prevent death wobble just vibration from the driveshaft being at too steep of an angle. Either way you'll need it most likely.|
|07-28-2009 02:34 PM|
I would go with the Rubicon Express Superflex 4.5" as it will easily clear 35 X 12.50 tires. Like Jerry said; it is really more like 5.5" of lift.. My buddy just had this exact lift installed and he is at least 1.5" taller then me.. Usually, 4X4 Group Buy offers package deals with either shocks or SYE/CV shaft (which is absolutely required to prevent the dreaded "Death Wobble").
At that point; you are going to need to look into tires.. If you wanna "Fire-up" the forum begin the Goodyear Vs. BF Goodrich debate.. I have 33" X 12.50" BF Goodrich KM tires and they work exceptionally well as they are a tried and true classic. If you are absolutely dead-set on running 35" tires I highly recommend running 4.88 gears. I have the 4.56 gears and it is still very pleasant to drive at highway speeds..
I didn't see where you had indicated your rear axle.. if you have a Dana44 rear and dont plan on wheeling the hell out if it, you should be in good shape, but if you have a Dana35, I would address that before building anything.. Don't hate me guys!!!
|07-28-2009 01:08 PM|
get the rubi 3.5 in standard system. you can upgrade later with out throwing anything out. put it on and if your drive line vibrates to much then do a sye.
doing it right does take alot of money. but no one ever said you had to do it all at once.
|07-28-2009 12:59 PM|
|Sa'dia||Well... shit, guys. Now I'm terrified to do anything! Damnit, guess I'm off to the 4x4 shop to pick some brains. Just exactly what I was trying to avoid|
|07-23-2009 08:10 PM|
also keep in mind that the tires you put on are whats going to give you the ground clearence and the actual lift. so what you realy need to do is start from the gound up figure out what size tires your going to run then go from there. plus how do you want to set the jeep up like rock, mud, trail, or daily drive or all thee above. also keep in mind there is no such thing as a cheap lift. to put a lift on you will spend money now do it right the first time or spend more money later. and remember the j e e p (just emptied every pochet). once you start building you will never quit.
also if you have any 4x4/auto shops that spesify in that start picking there brain as well alond with some of ours
|07-23-2009 07:44 PM|
|Sb5551||Dont show KBR that picture. He might get excited and try to steal some of your girlfriends.|
|07-23-2009 07:05 PM|
|07-23-2009 06:44 PM|
|jdhallissey||^ very true lol|
|07-23-2009 06:03 PM|
|4Jeepn||As stated the driver has a lot to do with it. The wife was making several Rubi's look bad in our $300 zj last year...with 30" tires, 4" lift and open diffs.|
|07-23-2009 05:57 PM|
|jdhallissey||I agree with Geoff- 33's and 4in of lift you can take the truck just bout anywhere and then lockers add in a completely new ball game.|
|07-23-2009 05:23 PM|
There's been a big inflation (heehee..get it) in tire sizes, but people ran these trails in the old days.
|07-23-2009 05:14 PM|
Jerry is just an old fart with a military background and a real desire to always do things right. You can ignore his advice and Go Big without spending a ton of money.
Just be ready for the consequences. Doing this cheaply means things will break. Things won't line up right, and you'll get stuck on the side of the road. The Jeep will most likely not drive right, and it'll be scary and dangerous to drive. Doing it right = big bucks.
No one's figured out how to do a big lift cheap and good. If they had, they'd be selling a lot of lift kits.
33 inch tires were considered HUGE until just a few years ago. And they still look big to most people, especially non Jeepers. You can lift enough to run those without messing up everything.
Go visit some 4 wheel drive experts in the area. Join a local club, and get a better idea before you jack up your jeep.
I know it's more about looks than performance, but you'd be amazed at what a stock Jeep on decent tires can do.
|07-23-2009 05:03 PM|
|4Jeepn||If my goal was to run 35's I would do a 2" body lift and 2" spacer lift. Then get longer bump stops so the tires didn't take out the fenders. Its not the best setup but it would work and would not cost an arm and a leg.|
|07-23-2009 04:24 PM|
|jdhallissey||Sa'dia go check out rock 4x in the vendors area on the board I run his 4in lift. He also does a inhouse 3 in lift for I think 450. It comes with everything you need to put it in your truck and drive away. Then I would run a 1 to a 1.25in body lift and you can run 33's for 550 bucks and not do a SYE. Actually I did his 4in lift and didn't have to run a sye with the Dana 35 rear axle. I am think the 3in with a body lift will do you good.|
|07-23-2009 04:16 PM|
Help me some more please guys!
Ok, so I've talked to Jerry and he suggest that I put up some more info here for all of you to help me out.
I wanna go BIG but he informs me that its gonna cost some MAJOR bucks to run 35's bc of regearing, sye kit and a longer cv drive shaft... so here it is... I'm a 28 year old girl who's dad didn't know anything about cars so I've had to teach myself and my knowledge only goes as far as aircoooed vw's. HAHAHAHA! What Jerry says is all friggin greek to me! So how can I go big without dropping a zillion dollars and having to rebuild my jeep (cuz that's what Jerry's words sound like to me
|07-18-2009 04:18 PM|
I have a neice that just got her drivers license and she's saving for a jeep and wants to take it to the trails with me. My sister wants to get a jeep too.
THey want to be able to run beginner to intermediate rock crawling trails. So for them I'd recommend a mild lift... to start out I recommend they get a 2" budget boost to raise their stock suspension up a bit and also a 1" body lift and 1" motor mount lift. That will give them enough to run larger 32" tires which is great and looks nice. ALso not super expensive to do. Then I'd recommend lockers and some hardened steel axle shafts and perhaps lower gearing at the same time if they can afford that.
It all depends on what you want to use the jeep for
If your going to run offroad trails and especially the technical rockcrawling trails then you've got to take the baby steps before going all out with monster tires and lift. Unless its just for looks which is totally cool too. If thats the case then get an RE or RK 4.5 or 5.5" lift and some 35" tires and call it good.
|07-18-2009 03:37 PM|
Jerry gave you some great knowledge about the different kinds of "lifts".
My first question to people when helping them with this question is this. What size tires do you want to run and what is the overall use you want your jeep to be for? You mention that you want bigger rims and big ass tires, but how big ass do you want to go?
|07-18-2009 11:28 AM|
Sa'dia, maybe this will help explain body vs. suspension lifts as well as a little on the stability of a Jeep after a lift has been installed...
A body lift consists of spacers (aka "pucks") installed between the body and the frame. It only lifts the body up higher off the frame which gives a little more tire clearance for slightly larger tires. While available in 1", 2", and 3" heights, most go no higher than 1" with a body lift. Some will unknowingly install a 3" body lift (because they are cheap) and think they now have a 3" "lift" for cheap but it's not what they think it is. And most, me included, will recommend that you never install a 3" body lift.
The "real" lift is a suspension lift. This is where you modify the suspension to be taller by replacing the suspension springs with either taller springs, or with spacer (less desireable) placed on top of the springs. A suspension lift lifts everything up taller off the axles for more ground clearance, as well as more clearance around the tires so you can run bigger tires. This type of lift also improves how well the Jeep does offroad by helping its suspension to keep all four tires in contact with the terrain which improves traction and offroad stability.
A common way to do this is to install a suspension lift, say 3", and then create a little more clearance for the tires by also installing a 1" body lift. Plus, that combination gives the benefit of a slightly lower center-of-gravity for your Jeep than a 4" suspension lift does.
That it was mentioned that some choose to go with shorter lifts implies the Jeep is unstable with a reasonable suspension lift heights, they are not. Properly designed, you can easily lift a Wrangler to probably 6"+ or more of total lift without worry about stability. My TJ has a Rubicon Express 4.5" (more like 5-5.5" in reality) suspension lift plus a 1" body lift and it is literally perfectly stable on the road and it does great on the twisty mountain roads I often tow my tent-trailer on. One reason taller suspension heights are usually very stable is that aftermarket wheels have usually also been installed by that time which provide at least another couple inches of tire track width. That added track width caused by aftermarket wheels is usually more than enough to fully compensate for the Jeep's added height.
Anyway, I hope those couple general comments helped you a little.
|07-18-2009 11:13 AM|
Jeep TJ Suspension Lift
|07-18-2009 11:07 AM|
rough country budget boost the spacers are 1 7/8 thick and come with shocks $ 199.95
Jeep TJ Suspension Lift
,you can add a 1.25 body lift for $ 99.95
Jeep Accessories - TJ Body Lift
so for less than 300.00 you get little over 3 inch lift with no head aches or problems and can run 33'sneo
|07-18-2009 02:57 AM|
|JeepMangler||Another key note. Any lift over 4" is going to cost more due to some hidden costs. Slip yoke eliminator + aftermarket drive shaft = about $600+ on top of lift. This does not include the labor to install the SYE. A 4" with 33's is pretty common, looks cool and will be somewhat capable offroad.|
|07-17-2009 07:22 PM|
Picking a lift depends on what you want to do with the Jeep.
Is it a daily driver... Do you mainly plan on playing in the mud & trails.... and plans for limited rock crawling. Things like that will help determine a suitable lift for your application.
Also like mentioned, check out the "Lift Reviews" in this forum to get some ideas as well.
Will gladly help point ya in the right direction
|07-17-2009 06:21 PM|
You may want to take a look at the lift reviews for the TJs. http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/tj-l...ews-25145.html
A lot of info there from people using the lifts with likes and dislikes.
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