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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-24-2013 05:24 PM
schwag27 anyone know where i can find how to torque down the valve cover?
08-23-2013 12:48 PM
incizion
Quote:
Originally Posted by schwag27 View Post
i know the valve gasket is new - its the blue one piece molded... its was like $50!

maybe it didn't sit correctly? can the cover come off and be put back on with that gasket? or would i need to buy a new one? i guess if its shot i need a new one anyway
I did mine with the gasket and rtv, checked the torque specs, torqued in order then went back and checked them again. 2 years no leaky valve cover.
08-23-2013 12:30 PM
schwag27 i know the valve gasket is new - its the blue one piece molded... its was like $50!

maybe it didn't sit correctly? can the cover come off and be put back on with that gasket? or would i need to buy a new one? i guess if its shot i need a new one anyway
08-23-2013 09:19 AM
incizion
Quote:
Originally Posted by harleydragon View Post
you might try changing the valve cover gasket first..that might get the majority of it and save you from having to do the rear main
check the torque specs, and make sure you torque in order or it's still gonna leak.
08-23-2013 08:43 AM
87jeepwrangler I thought my rear main was leaking but when I pulled the oil pan to change it I found the rear main to be fine and it was just the back part of the pan gasket. If you do it yourself do not skimp on a new pan gasket. I bought the felpro molded one piece gasket and I haven't had a drip since. Definitely worth the extra couple bucks. Do the oil pump while your in there, you won't regret it. There's also a metal strap that tightens the curved back part of the pan with two bolts. Mine was stretched so I fixed it by closing the little tabs on it with a punch in my vise. Might want to look into getting a new one if possible.

Here's the pan gasket I got: http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sho...oil+pan+gasket
08-23-2013 08:30 AM
harleydragon you might try changing the valve cover gasket first..that might get the majority of it and save you from having to do the rear main
08-23-2013 08:08 AM
Rmn42689 It's really not bad, I was nervousness when I did it to but just take your time. It is well worth doing ur self. I'm still kicking myself for not doing the oil pump.
08-22-2013 09:03 PM
schwag27 man - looks really doable except the upper part that goes into the block. i can really see myself F'ing that up....

but to save $450 bucks? HMMMMMM
08-22-2013 07:41 PM
Rmn42689 I did mine. Pretty simple, just have to take your time. The trans can stay attached. It's a 2 piece seal. Just gotta get the oil pan off, and then the last bearing cap off at the rear of the block. The other part if the seal is still in the block on and will probably need pushed out with a pick. Then should be able to pull out the when its sticky out far enough. Installation is the same but I the seal that goes into the block had to face a specific way. I forget his it goes but just live it up and be careful not to rip it. Otherwise you will have it all buttoned up and the seal will leak again. If you have the cash you should replace the oil pump too just to make sure that's all good. I didn't and now a year later I gotta change it now.

http://jeepin.com/features/rearmain

This is for a 4.0 but its the same. Hope this helps!
08-22-2013 06:41 PM
schwag27 or i need to try and build a drip plate, but it doesn't solve the problem of oil leaking all over everyone's driveway
08-22-2013 06:38 PM
schwag27
88 4.2 leak from the rear main seal

thinking i have a leak from my rear main. oil is dripping down on hitting the exhaust and causing some gnarly fumes. its almost undriveable with the top buttoned up.

OR it from the back of the valve cover... not sure

i don't have the skills/tools to tear the trans from the block to replace. anyone have this done and know how long it takes? trying to estimate a price in my head

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