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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-15-2013 09:49 AM
Chx beach 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuneWrangler View Post
Hey i was just wondering what front axle your running with the 37s and how do you like the gears now that theyve been on for a while? Hows the highway driving?
I have 0 complaints, acceleration is way better then stock, I'm getting 15.5 mpg in the city, and can run down the highway at 75 mph with not running rpm's to high. It makes the drive 10x better. I am running the Dana 30 in the front... I always sell my jeeps before it's out of warranty and I have never had one issue with the Dana 30, even when running hard off road with big tires... But I don't rock crawl, I usually drive it on the beach...
11-15-2013 01:00 AM
HeavySmoke
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavySmoke View Post
I have a 2012 with 305s they are 34" and plan to regear I think 456 will be perfect. Any thoughts
I have same set up, I was told that is perfect
11-14-2013 10:08 AM
DuneWrangler
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chx beach 79 View Post
.....
Hey i was just wondering what front axle your running with the 37s and how do you like the gears now that theyve been on for a while? Hows the highway driving?
09-26-2013 08:22 AM
BB1857
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavySmoke View Post
Are lockers dumb idea on daily drivers
As long as they are selectable you will be good to go. Auto engaging ones can get a little sketchy on a DD.
09-26-2013 06:32 AM
derf
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavySmoke View Post
Are lockers dumb idea on daily drivers
I have selectable lockers front and rear on my daily driver. They're great. I probably wouldn't like automatic lockers as much.
09-26-2013 12:05 AM
Cold Lockers are always a good decision! Just dont run them when you really dont need them. Nothing buries you up to you axles faster in sand than locking box axles and flooring it.

I went with 5.38 gears and man that is one of the best things ive ever done!
09-25-2013 11:53 PM
Spaste19
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavySmoke View Post
Are lockers dumb idea on daily drivers
They won't be engaged will they?
09-25-2013 11:38 PM
HeavySmoke Are lockers dumb idea on daily drivers
09-25-2013 09:54 PM
RRTRI
Quote:
Originally Posted by BB1857 View Post
I will say this....DONT even think about doing your own regear. I had a friend who is a mechanic for a living and has all tools needed and it still was a 10 hour job because we couldn't use the lift where he works. Crawling around the ground, knocking bearings out, putting new ones in, setting backlash, doing the crush sleeve...all VERY difficult work..plus if you have an automatic you have to have a procal or superchips programmer to flash the computer with the new ratio.
A while back when I had my gears done I called AEV and asked them if I should be setting the new ratio even though I have a manual. My understanding was that it was just to set the correct shift points for the auto. I already owned the Procal but I wanted to know if I should bother for any reason I wasn't aware of.

What I learned from them is that the gear ratio is one of the inputs into the safety systems and it could impact how ESC reacts should it need to. For this reason you should (according to who I spoke with at AEV) set the ratio regardless if you have a manual or an auto. Just an FYI for those who may wonder like myself.
09-25-2013 09:19 PM
cornfedksboy If you look at the gear chart, the 2011 models actually came from the factory with the wrong tire size. A 29" tire is the largest tire feasible (yellow) and 30" was off the chart too big. The 29" with 3.21 and a 3.8 is equivalent to a 35" with 3.21 and a 3.6. WOW!

Also, I live at low elevation, drive over 80 mph routinely, and do light trails. I'm doubtful I ever regear.
09-25-2013 08:26 PM
Jeep757 from a 30" to a 33" i did i could tell a difference in some power loss and definite drop in mpg with 3.21's. per the math i only need to go up to a 3.73. per the chart, 3.73 is the minimum(yellow) gear required for that tire size. 4.10 is green (idle, good for DD even up to a 35") and 4.56 would be blue(performance, fair for DD) for 33" and green for 35" for the 3.8L/Manual
09-25-2013 08:07 PM
rubisteph Exactly...
09-25-2013 07:41 PM
cornfedksboy
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubisteph View Post
Mostly math yes.... but get it right.... the formula is simple... new tire height/ old tire height X actual gear ratio and this gives you the ratio you should get to run along the same rpms..... add to that the added unsprung weight and rolling resistance and go one size gear lower to compensate... therefore a 35'' tire/ 32''tire X 3.21= 3.51..... I think one size lower would be 3.73 in a dana 44.......
Based on this math, if I go from 32" tire to 33" pizza cutter, I'm not going to see much difference...
09-25-2013 05:00 PM
Jeep757
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubisteph View Post
Mostly math yes.... but get it right.... the formula is simple... new tire height/ old tire height X actual gear ratio and this gives you the ratio you should get to run along the same rpms..... add to that the added unsprung weight and rolling resistance and go one size gear lower to compensate... therefore a 35'' tire/ 32''tire X 3.21= 3.51..... I think one size lower would be 3.73 in a dana 44.......
^This is what I've always heard but this differs from "the chart" that goes around the forum. Aleays wondered why
09-25-2013 04:47 PM
rubisteph Mostly math yes.... but get it right.... the formula is simple... new tire height/ old tire height X actual gear ratio and this gives you the ratio you should get to run along the same rpms..... add to that the added unsprung weight and rolling resistance and go one size gear lower to compensate... therefore a 35'' tire/ 32''tire X 3.21= 3.51..... I think one size lower would be 3.73 in a dana 44.......
09-25-2013 04:12 PM
ave8er If you were ok with the 3.21 gears on your stock rig you should go to 4.10 for 35's and to 4.88 for 37's. Or go to 4.56 which will be fine with either. This all hinges on your being ok with 3.21's to start with..
09-25-2013 03:16 PM
live_slow 3.21 should go up to 4.56 for 35s
That's mostly math.

At 3.73 and 35 things get more subjective due to cost and ROI. I would regear since I would be adding other weight and perhaps towing. I also value a slow crawl.

Its not a slam dunk like it was a few years back due to the changes in the model.

At 4.10 and 35, the ROI is so low to go down to 4.56 unless you are cracking pumpkins for lockers or doing other serious work anyway.

So its objective to a point, then subjective or situational. (Gear charts don't lie but they also don't know what you are doing, what you like or if you run heavy. That's why they have the color bands for marginal, average and performance)
09-25-2013 01:26 PM
ConradCalvin Gentlemen,

I have read the entire thread, and there is no real consensus amongst all of you. It appears it varies with each individual who have upgraded tires aka. 305,315,325 etc specifically on the new 3.6L 4Door Wrangler.

I think majority of us are weekend warriors, and use our jeeps as a daily driver. Since the common size of tire upgrade are 35s, what would you all suggest to those who enjoy a bit of trail riding on the weekend, and a lot of weekly back and forth to work driving for gear upgrades on a 3.6L (2012-2014)

Some keep the stock 3.73, some upgrade from 3.21 to 4.10, 4.56 or 4.88. I understand that those who go up to 4.88 are usually on the fence with the idea of going to a 37 tire. I also have found that those who do a lot of towing go up to a 4.56.

In summation, if the average person looking to beef up their Jeep to 35s who uses it as a daily driver and hits the trails on a 3-4 time a month basis....what should he ought to be running. (Maximizing Fuel Efficiency/Reducing Wear/ Consistent Stock Ratio of RPMs).

For argument sake, lets say the elevation level (AMSL) is anywhere from 250' ft (highway/work driving) and trail riding at approx. 1,200ft.

Let's also assume that we have a 2.5-3" lift on the vehicle. From my research and observation it appears that 3" Lifts are probably most common for those with 35s.

Thank You in advance for your support!
09-25-2013 10:38 AM
Chx beach 79 .....
09-25-2013 10:36 AM
Chx beach 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by cornfedksboy View Post
Have you driven a JKU with 33" pizza cutters, auto, 3.6 pentastar and 3.21 gears in flat lands? If so, I am interested in what you thought.
I have driven a 3.21 with 35's and 37's never with 33's. I know a few people who have regeared with 33's.
09-25-2013 10:33 AM
Chx beach 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by BB1857 View Post
Sometimes the answers on these threads drive me nuts. This school of doing something right or don't do it at all is just wrong when it comes to gearing and 35s. Wranglers can be had with three different sets of ratios therefore there obviously isn't one "right way". If you live in a very flat area there may be no real need to regear. Will the Jeep downshift a bit more than if the gearing is higher, yes but it still doesn't mean you're wrong if you put 35s on and don't regear. I drove my Sport for two months with 35s and 3.21 gears in a very hilly area and while it wasn't ideal it's not like it wasn't driveable.
You are wrong,it might drive you nuts but just know you are 100% wrong, even according to Chrysler 35's with a 3.21 will put unwanted wear and tear on the transmission and many other parts. Take drivability out of it and still you should regear! It is not good to run like that. It is a fact and not a opinion. I have worked on many jeep builds with mopar techs and they recommend to regear always even when adding 33's.
09-24-2013 11:16 AM
JeepHerz
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavySmoke View Post
I have a 2012 with 305s they are 34" and plan to regear I think 456 will be perfect. Any thoughts
4.56s. 305s, 2012- Perfect to me.
09-23-2013 08:14 PM
Eight My dealer has a 2014 auto 3.73 that they installed a Mopar stage 3 lift and 315/70/17 Duratracs. I took it for a spin (waiting for my 2014 on order) to see what the big deal was regarding gears. I don't currently drive a Wrangler on a daily basis, but I didn't notice any difference in acceleration between that vehicle and the original auto 3.21 that I drove. The 3.73 with the 315/70 Duratracs was just fine in stop-and-go traffic as well as on the interstate. The thing has more get-up-and-go than my current vehicle. Of course, this is more related to daily driving. I didn't test with towing or off-roading.

I think the only hard and fast rule to gearing is to try what you have. If you don't like it, then think about regearing. Some people seem to think that the vehicle won't move if you don't regear. It's all about what the driver can live with.
09-23-2013 07:07 PM
BB1857 Sometimes the answers on these threads drive me nuts. This school of doing something right or don't do it at all is just wrong when it comes to gearing and 35s. Wranglers can be had with three different sets of ratios therefore there obviously isn't one "right way". If you live in a very flat area there may be no real need to regear. Will the Jeep downshift a bit more than if the gearing is higher, yes but it still doesn't mean you're wrong if you put 35s on and don't regear. I drove my Sport for two months with 35s and 3.21 gears in a very hilly area and while it wasn't ideal it's not like it wasn't driveable.
09-23-2013 06:58 PM
HeavySmoke I have a 2012 with 305s they are 34" and plan to regear I think 456 will be perfect. Any thoughts
09-23-2013 06:54 PM
cornfedksboy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chx beach 79 View Post
IMHO opinion if you are going to run bigger tires you should do it right and regear (33's or bigger). I am under the school of thought that if you aren't going to do it right don't do it. There a lot of other factors to regearing other then just how it drives, even though it will drive much better!
Have you driven a JKU with 33" pizza cutters, auto, 3.6 pentastar and 3.21 gears in flat lands? If so, I am interested in what you thought.
09-23-2013 01:17 PM
Chx beach 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by cornfedksboy View Post
I'm in Kansas, which is why I think I will be okay. If not I will regear, but reading others experience with the pre-2012 made me think it was a must. Now I've read several folks have gotten bigger with tires with the 3.6 w/o issue. Also, I kinda dig the pizza cutter look so I won't we running wide body heavy murders no matter what I get.
IMHO opinion if you are going to run bigger tires you should do it right and regear (33's or bigger). I am under the school of thought that if you aren't going to do it right don't do it. There a lot of other factors to regearing other then just how it drives, even though it will drive much better!
09-23-2013 09:13 AM
derf
Quote:
Originally Posted by ave8er View Post
from 3.21 to 4.xx do both carriers have to be replaced or just the front?
The front is the only one that absolutely has to be replaced.

But if you want to go with any kind of full case locker you want to do it when you do the gears. That makes the regear more expensive but it's cheaper than doing the gear work twice.
09-23-2013 08:35 AM
ave8er from 3.21 to 4.xx do both carriers have to be replaced or just the front?
09-22-2013 08:47 PM
TreyJK
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHerz View Post
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/201...iy-223568.html http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/hel...ll-219983.html The short answer- not easy. 8 out of 10 according to my very experienced/knowledgeable husband. Not to mention a couple hundred bucks in tools- and we have a pretty well stocked garage to start. In a do over I'd replace all my bearings- more money. Not for the faint of heart- one thing on a Jeep I think is certainly worth paying for the pro install.
Thanks! I appreciate the info!
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