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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-14-2013 11:52 AM
VertigoTX I think I found what I'm looking for...



10-14-2013 11:04 AM
VertigoTX
Quote:
Originally Posted by woansleftpeg View Post
I ran long RCAs down beneath the driver's side trim, then under the carpet in the rear footwell and out at the hole for the seat post, up the seat post and into the rear of the amp. Turn-on goes the same route. Power goes out the front, straight into the ridge of the tub in front of the passenger seat, along to the passengers door trim and through to the battery via the cowl tunnel. Speaker wire goes out from the front, along the seat post and then routes up the passenger side seat belt trim to the soundbar, or under the carpet to the dash (to keep it clear of the power cable).
I finally tackled this over the weekend. Performed the following changes:

- Mounted JeepedJeep bracket under passenger seat
- Mounted amp to bracket
- Installed amp kit
- installed sub
- installed new front speakers

I did something pretty similar to what you described with the wiring. The power wire went through the hole in the door frame. I pushed it through that foam fill. I mounted the fuse block to the plastic wall next to the battery. Ground wire is attached to the seat frame (confirmed ground with DMM). RCA's are on the left of the tranny hump.

I replaced my front speakers. The Polks were hurting my ears even with the tweeter set to -3 db and the EQ set to -4 on several of the high end EQ bands. I found them tiring to listen to, and they made my right ear ring after short periods of moderate level listening. I installed some Alpine SPR-610C's instead. This required some trimming of the tweeter tombstones, but they look stock. I'll post a picture later. The sound is much nicer to me now. They seem to have more definition, but are not harsh. Tweeters are currently set to -0db attenuation, and my EQ is flat.

I took the Polk db651s out of the sound bar a few weeks ago when I was having problems with the fatigue of listening. It seemed to make it easier to listen to if I heavily attentuated/faded them out. So I put the stock speakers back in to see how that felt. They need some help, but the overall sound is how I'd like it to be. I'm going to look for some full range speakers for the sound bar. Right now they are running off of the head unit, but I'll come back to this.

After much research, I decided not to get the Pioneer sub I had been planning on. I didn't like the idea that only 2 subs can fit in that enclosure. I really wanted an enclosure that was able to be used with a variety of components in case I wanted to make changes in the future. So I continued my research for an 8" focused on quality and not volume. One sub that kept coming up over and over again in my research was the JBL GTO804. I put this in the Sound Ordinance BB8-35S sealed box from Crutchfield. I like it. I can get a good amount of bump when I want it, but it's tight and not boomy.

My DMM is giving me some really weird results when testing output from the amp to set my gains. I still need to work out my gain settings, so I'm keeping them low for now.

I had one significant problem during the installation. I was not able to locate the sound bar speaker wires in the bundle that runs along the door frame. At the speakers themself, the wiring is as follows:

Rear Left:
Black/White +
Dark Green -

Rear Right:
Light Blue +
Light Green -

I didn't see any matching wires in the door frame. I checked the bundle under the door, and the one that runs up the pillar to the sound bar. It's almost like they change colors at some point up there. Once I figure this out, I can wire the sound bar into the amp.
09-26-2013 11:13 PM
woansleftpeg I ran long RCAs down beneath the driver's side trim, then under the carpet in the rear footwell and out at the hole for the seat post, up the seat post and into the rear of the amp. Turn-on goes the same route. Power goes out the front, straight into the ridge of the tub in front of the passenger seat, along to the passengers door trim and through to the battery via the cowl tunnel. Speaker wire goes out from the front, along the seat post and then routes up the passenger side seat belt trim to the soundbar, or under the carpet to the dash (to keep it clear of the power cable).

Removing the trim is easy, but you just have to trust me on this. Pull it hard, and when you think it's going to break, pull it harder. It's held in with those plastic bolts with splines on, so it's just an exercise in pulling hard. It does feel like it's going to break, but mine hasn't.
09-26-2013 06:56 PM
VertigoTX
Quote:
Originally Posted by woansleftpeg View Post
...will depend upon the size of the amp and how you install it.

I... elected to install mine with the amp central to the bracket... RCA connectors towards the rear. ...RCAs are easier to disconnect and reconnect than speaker wires, especially when access to screws is from the top. I wouldn't try to connect it all up with the seat in place, though. It will be a royal pain in the arse.
Amp is the MRX-V70

I like the arrangement in your pic. I was thinking I'd run the RCA's down the left side of the tranny hump. Front speaker wires up the right side of the tranny hump. Power wire down the passenger door trim to front of seat. Rear speakers to door trim at back of seat and plan to splice into factory wiring to soundbar. Sub wiring along passenger side to cargo (but don't have sub yet). The head unit I have won't require the bass knob. When sub is enabled, it's 1 button press to adjust sub levels.

I'm uncomfortable with the passenger door trim. I've been looking around under the seat and dash at the carpets and trim, and I'm just not seeing how it all comes together/apart. I have a coworker who is experienced with this and was going to look at it for me, but that has not worked out this week. It's just been too hectic up here. I'm off tomorrow, so we won't get a chance to look at it together.

This is why I was hoping I could mount the bracket/amp this weekend, and revisit the wiring next weekend. I may just have to start carefully pulling on it and see what happens.
09-26-2013 01:51 PM
woansleftpeg
Quote:
Originally Posted by VertigoTX View Post
I've not done this yet, but intend to do so any weekend now. What has slowed me is that I had planned to do the bracket/amp/wiring as seperate steps as timer permitted, and I've not had alot of time. When I looked at it, it appeared I might need to do it all at once.

Is there ample space to get at the connections and amp settings once the seat is remounted?
It can be done, but it would be much easier to do in one go. How easy access will be after you re-install the seat will depend upon the size of the amp and how you install it.

I thought through this process before installation and elected to install mine with the amp central to the bracket, and the RCA connectors towards the rear. You're more likely to get feet or something being shoved under the seat from the rear and RCAs are easier to disconnect and reconnect than speaker wires, especially when access to screws is from the top. I wouldn't try to connect it all up with the seat in place, though. It will be a royal pain in the arse.
09-25-2013 11:07 AM
VertigoTX
Quote:
Originally Posted by axeman628 View Post
Here's a pic of the uconnect module. Not the clearest picture but it shows the location. If you are looking at the module the USB port is on the bottom left. The wire is kinda tight, but it runs down from the module and through the console.
Thanks! That's really helpful. Now I'll need to decide if I want to make this change or not. I'm kinda liking plugging my flash drive into the plug directly under the head unit, and powering my phone off of the one in the center console.

Jason
09-25-2013 11:02 AM
VertigoTX
Quote:
Originally Posted by woansleftpeg View Post
A plug and a few nuts, it's easy. You're taking the seat frame off the floor brackets, you're not taking the floor brackets off the tub. The amp bracket is a breeze to fit and to mount your amp to as well.

I'm not going to tell you that putting the seat back on once you've got the amp installed is easy, though. In truth, putting the front nut on the centre console side back on is a massive pain in the ass. My biggest recommendation would be to make sure you have a very small ratchet, and you might still end up having to do it the hard way with a wrench.
I've not done this yet, but intend to do so any weekend now. What has slowed me is that I had planned to do the bracket/amp/wiring as seperate steps as timer permitted, and I've not had alot of time. When I looked at it, it appeared I might need to do it all at once.

Is there ample space to get at the connections and amp settings once the seat is remounted?
09-12-2013 01:22 PM
axeman628
Quote:
Originally Posted by VertigoTX View Post
Ah, I didn't look there. The cable seemed to run down the left and deep into the dash. I couldn't get my hand back in there. I may investigate it again next time I have it out for RCA cabling.
Here's a pic of the uconnect module. Not the clearest picture but it shows the location. If you are looking at the module the USB port is on the bottom left. The wire is kinda tight, but it runs down from the module and through the console.

Attachment 339457
09-11-2013 06:35 PM
VertigoTX
Quote:
Originally Posted by woansleftpeg View Post
I'm not going to tell you that putting the seat back on once you've got the amp installed is easy, though. In truth, putting the front nut on the centre console side back on is a massive pain in the ass. My biggest recommendation would be to make sure you have a very small ratchet, and you might still end up having to do it the hard way with a wrench.
Thanks, that's useful information. I had a feeling going back on would be more difficult. I'll let you know how it turns out when I finally tackle it. Thank you for all the insight you have provided.
09-11-2013 06:10 PM
woansleftpeg
Quote:
Originally Posted by VertigoTX View Post
I just ordered a JeepedJeep bracket. I'm more nervous about pulling up this seat than anything else with this project.
A plug and a few nuts, it's easy. You're taking the seat frame off the floor brackets, you're not taking the floor brackets off the tub. The amp bracket is a breeze to fit and to mount your amp to as well.

I'm not going to tell you that putting the seat back on once you've got the amp installed is easy, though. In truth, putting the front nut on the centre console side back on is a massive pain in the ass. My biggest recommendation would be to make sure you have a very small ratchet, and you might still end up having to do it the hard way with a wrench.
09-11-2013 09:23 AM
VertigoTX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mafjrk View Post
entry level speakers on your want list.
I guess we all have our pet peeves. I really dislike when someone doesn't read the information provided to them, them makes statements that are not constructive and provides nothing to the conversation. In effect, they waste everyone's time.

Let me help you out...

Quote:
Originally Posted by VertigoTX View Post
...I went to several reputable car audio shops in town...None of them could be bothered to assist me...only place I really got to learn anything was Best Buy...What sounded best to me was the Polk...If I ever get a chance to hear any of those speakers, I'd consider upgrading again. Without hearing them, it's a crap shoot that I'm not willing to gamble.
09-11-2013 12:35 AM
VertigoTX I just ordered a JeepedJeep bracket. I'm more nervous about pulling up this seat than anything else with this project.
09-11-2013 12:34 AM
VertigoTX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattk11 View Post
The Uconnect module in mine was directly behind the climate controls.
Ah, I didn't look there. The cable seemed to run down the left and deep into the dash. I couldn't get my hand back in there. I may investigate it again next time I have it out for RCA cabling.
09-01-2013 08:29 PM
Mattk11 The Uconnect module in mine was directly behind the climate controls.
09-01-2013 06:48 PM
VertigoTX Perhaps I'm too timid with my dash, but I couldn't find the Uconnect module. So I cut a hole in the Metra pocket and stuck the USB through it. I think it will be convenient for flash drives, or guests to plug things in. I would assume that since the Uconnect is still connected to the system, that the USB in the center console can still be used for charging.

Overall, I'm very pleased with this experience. I've never done anything like it, so I was really nervous about it all before I started. I think it sounds really good to me, and I'm glad I decided to give this a shot. It's now capable of quite a bit of volume too. The system easily overpowers wind noise from rolling down the windows. I don't think I will need any further amplification on the speakers. I'll run with this for a bit since it's got a nice bass upgrade to it, and will delve into a sub/amp combo next.

One thing that I'm really impressed with is the Bluetooth audio quality from my Samsung Galaxy S3. All bluetooth audio is much higher quality now. Before, Google Music sounded good(ish) depending on the track, and Pandora was inferior. On this unit, Google sounds great and Pandora sounds pretty good but is still dependent on a good track.


Attachment 301001
09-01-2013 08:19 AM
VertigoTX I just pulled the dash piece and looked at the back of the stereo. Harness appears to be a match for "B".

One thing I noticed that alarmed me... no USB connection. I had read that the USB in the center console was connected as a micro USB.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/wha...ml#post3654975

Reading further, it seems you have to find the Uconnect module and disconnect it from there.

Off to do some soldering...
09-01-2013 12:35 AM
I-Want-A-Jeep Sweet! I was a little jealous of those tweeter tombstones in the JKs at first but mine worked out well anyway.. hope you enjoy the setup!!
08-31-2013 11:39 PM
VertigoTX Final update for today...

I got the tweeters installed this evening. A few challenges presented themselves throughout today, and the tweeters were no exception. The flush mount face is larger than the tombstone. It's not usable as a flush mount without some modifications. Lacking much in the way of tools, I moved on to surface mounting.

Driver's side went in fine. Pic below of final mount. Passenger side... I dropped the bracket down into the dash. I was unable to recover it, or figure out how to get enough of the dash off to get my hand in there. Found a 2 inch hinge with center hole in a parts box. Passenger tweeter is now mounted.

I'm really pleased with the upgrade so far. I'm too tired to pull the head unit and check the harness, so that's tomorrow mornings task. Once I verify the harness, I'll be soldering over coffee.

Attachment 299145
08-31-2013 02:50 PM
VertigoTX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattk11 View Post
VertigoTX - interesting you say "compressed sound" when you are describing Sirius but then you list Polk entry level speakers on your want list.

I would suggest if you want to open up the sound, look to a higher end speaker such as Hertz, Focal, JL even Alpine components. Even in their entry level. If your local store has a sound demo board, take a listen to the brands I mention above. They will be night and day in clarity compared to the Polks you list. Of course it all comes down to personal preference and you have to listen to appreciate.
Mattk11 - Thanks for your input. Compressed probably wasn't the best choice of words, but it is really poor quality and I will not be renewing it. You are correct about one thing, it has everything to do with preference and perception. I can hear that my stock system is lacking, but I don't feel I have the ear for high end equipment. I certainly don't have the wallet for it either. Some speakers sound better to others due to what we like to hear, and sometimes that's not the "better" speaker. Who's to say what is best when the subject is rooted in perception?

I recently posted in another of my threads that I went to several reputable car audio shops in town. Specifically, I wanted to hear the Alpine Type R's and the JL C2/3's. None of them could be bothered to assist me (not to say they were rude, but they were understaffed and no one was working the sales floor). Only one of them carried Focal, and luckily the sound board was driving them, because I couldn't figure out how to change speakers. They did sound good, and they better because they were like $500 for the set. The shop that carried Alpine, didn't have any Type R's hooked up, and again there was no one working the floor to assist customers. This shop also had the JL entry models (TR), but I couldn't get the sound board to play anything through them. After waiting around for almost an hour, I left.

The only place I really got to learn anything was Best Buy. As much as I wanted to like the Alpine Type S, I didn't. What sounded best to me was the Polk DXI series. If I ever get a chance to hear any of those speakers, I'd consider upgrading again. Without hearing them, it's a crap shoot that I'm not willing to gamble. Next time I visit family back in Dallas, I'll go to some of the better shops to some listening. That may not be until next year.
08-31-2013 02:43 PM
Mattk11
Quote:
Originally Posted by I-Want-A-Jeep View Post
Eww.. I hate Satellite radio.. Horribly hollow, tinny sound!!
I agree BTW. Great for talk radio when football season rolls around.
08-31-2013 02:06 PM
I-Want-A-Jeep Eww.. I hate Satellite radio.. Horribly hollow, tinny sound!!
08-31-2013 01:47 PM
VertigoTX On a side note, I have often read that our speakers are 2 ohm. While this may be true for the premium systems, it was not true for my base system. I have the 130 RES unit with no sub.

I used the multimeter to test the impedence of all 4 of the stock woofers I've pulled out. They are all 4 ohm drivers. Test results vary from 3.6 - 4.3 with 3.8 being the most repeatable result.
08-31-2013 01:45 PM
Mattk11 VertigoTX - interesting you say "compressed sound" when you are describing Sirius but then you list Polk entry level speakers on your want list.

I would suggest if you want to open up the sound, look to a higher end speaker such as Hertz, Focal, JL even Alpine components. Even in their entry level. If your local store has a sound demo board, take a listen to the brands I mention above. They will be night and day in clarity compared to the Polks you list. Of course it all comes down to personal preference and you have to listen to appreciate.
08-31-2013 01:43 PM
VertigoTX No problem. Thanks for the response. I'll look through the post history and see what I can find. I'm going to pull it tonight around dusk to check it to be 100% certain. I'll just place everything where it goes without fully snapping it all into place. I'll wire up the harness tonight so I can install tomorrow morning.

This morning I installed the DXI6501's. It was both easier and harder than I thought. The dash trim etc... was easy. Figuring out where to mount, how to secure, etc... that was not. Ultimately, I found a spot to zip tie the crossover. I used some baffles and cut them down to a ring for the woofer installation. I then used the cut out "bowl" to make a cushion to zip the crossover with. I figure this will reduce any plastic/metal vibration noises from the mounting surface.

The driver's side wiring was rather short. I may consider patching in another foot of wire on it if it gives me any trouble.

The flush mount bezel for the tweeter is larger than the entire tombstone housing, so I won't be able to use that. The surface mount cup looks fine, but I need to tweak it a bit to make it mount. Since I live in an apartment, I drive down the street to a church parking lot with lots of shade to do stuff like this. I don't want to advertise to my neighbors what I'm doing. Therefore, I only had the tools on me that I thought I needed.

Right now, the sound is rather nice even though it's incomplete. Using a flat eq on the stock head unit with: dxi6501 woofers, and db651s in soundbar... there is a significant amount of bass from the CD and FM sources. These components definitely do dip down low for a 6 1/2. I'm very pleased so far.
08-30-2013 09:42 PM
woansleftpeg Off the top of my head, I think it's B that you need. If you check back through my post history you'll find the answer, I looked it up for someone else not long back. I'd do it but my missus is waiting for me to put a movie on.
08-30-2013 06:46 PM
VertigoTX Everything came in today.

The PAC adapter actually has 2 harnesses in the package. RP4-CH11-A and RP4-CH11-B. With a simple glance, they appear the same. The manual states: "Only one of the two provided radio harnesses will be used. Remove the factory installed radio to determine the correct harness for your particular vehicle."

There is no other indication as to which one will be used without taking the head unit out. I kinda wanted to do all the soldering tonight before I pulled the dash apart.

Woansleftpeg, my googlefu turned up a thread in which you stated you used this harness too. Which factory head unit did you have, and which RP4 harness mated up with it?

Here is a pic of them both. "RP4-CH11-A" is on the left and appears to have 2 power and 2 grounds. "B" is on the right with 1 power and 1 ground. *EDIT* I'm guesssing the dual power/ground is for the premium system with amp?

Attachment 294625
08-27-2013 09:13 PM
VertigoTX Small update...

I realized I didn't install the foam baffles in the sound bar. So I went out after work, cut them to fit, and installed them with the db651s'. Soundbar bass has returned. It's a tighter bass, and not quite as deep as the stockers. I think that's perfect since I will add a sub eventually. Simple fix.
08-27-2013 02:35 PM
VertigoTX After much reflection and research this weekend, I ordered some additional parts.

I decided that the primary reason I wanted the AppRadio was to run my phone apps on the screen. My daily commute is 2 miles each way, so this would only be used on weekends/trips (and I have a Garmin I use on long trips). This is the only feature that can't be performed by other head units.

In addition, the AR3 would cause me to lose the ability to use flash drives. I had considered buying an iPod to leave in the console with all my MP3's on it instead. This is another expense. In the end, I don't feel that $600+ for head unit, Android kit, ipod cable + extra price of whatever iPod I choose was worth it to just see the output on the screen. Maybe in the future they won't be priced as such a premium.

I ordered the following last night:
Alpine CDE-HD147BT - CD/MP3/BT/Pandora/USB/AuxIn - NO HD Radio (Only 1 station I like in this town), and NO SiriusXM (don't care for the compressed quality)
Polk DXI6501 6.5 components - all black tweeter face
PAC RP4-CH11

I'll probably get the Daystar GPS mount, and get a phone cradle for my Samsung S3. I'll post an update once the next steps have been taken towards installation.

In the meantime, I feel like my db651s' are starting to break in. Seems like they have a bit more bass this morning on the drive in than they did over the weekend. Looking forward to the next set of changes.
08-25-2013 04:40 PM
VertigoTX I should clarify, the Pioneer unit I was speaking of was an older single DIN model. On the AppRadio3, it seemed like it was a matter of going to the home screen from whatever source you are in, swiping to the second page, tapping the Settings app, selecting the tab on the left that controlled the filters and sub, then you can change the sub setting on that page. I could be remembering it wrong, as I've only tinkered with it at Best Buy twice now. It still seemed like the remote knob would be more simple.

If the knob can't go someplace to make it look factory, it's going to have to go someplace that is semi hidden, and easy to get to while driving. I'll have to explore this a bit once I get to my install.

Today I've been reading about single DIN units. I realized the primary reason I'm interested in the AR3 is about GPS. A function I only use about once a month. Both the Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS and Alpine CDE-HD148BT look appealing.

Thanks again for the feedback. I've learned a lot today.
08-25-2013 03:32 PM
woansleftpeg
Quote:
Originally Posted by VertigoTX View Post
I've had systems with Sub control in the head unit. It got annoying to have to go through multiple menu systems on that Pioneer unit to tweak the sub to fit the various sources and styles of music I like. Eventually, I found a compromise setting and mainly left it there. At least conceptually, the knob sounds like a great idea to me. I'm curious as to whether I could put it in one of the button slots just below the AC controls.

I've been doing some research on the KnuKoncepts products this morning. There is alot of positive information out there about them. Thanks for pointing me to it.
Those switches are part of a single assembly, it's virtually impossible to add additional switches into the blanks. If you do use the RUX-Knob then the best area I found, both in terms of easy cable run and keeping it unobtrusive, was under the parking brake. There are a few spots on the centre console it would work, but with the JVC HU it's a single button on the left to enter the EQ and then change settings. I appreciate the advice on the Pioneer though given my intention to go that way, I'll keep the knob in place for now.
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