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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-30-2006 06:30 PM
4Jeepn Everything MR.CLIFFORD said is correct. Do it right, if not then your asking for trouble. Heck, even when TJ"s are setup correctly, there still can be issue, have you been in one with death wobble yet?
12-30-2006 01:08 PM
bakefootball
Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.CLIFFORD View Post
what happens when the axle droops? If you are running longer shocks than stock then your stock brake lines are not adequate. Once the axle droops you will extend them pretty tight and possibly bust them. This has nothing to do with wheeling either. Let's say you have to take evasive actions to get away from another vehicle and hit a ditch. If your axle articulates enough and snaps a line then what?? New brake lines are inexpensive and should not be over looked
Thanks, hopefully I can convince the wife to buy these upgrades.
12-30-2006 01:02 PM
MR.CLIFFORD
Quote:
Originally Posted by bakefootball View Post
The kit did come with a transfercase lowering kit which I installed. It makes more of a noise that a vibration. No extended brake lines either. However, there does not seem to be any tension in the brake lines. The kit was bought from 4Wheel Parts.
what happens when the axle droops? If you are running longer shocks than stock then your stock brake lines are not adequate. Once the axle droops you will extend them pretty tight and possibly bust them. This has nothing to do with wheeling either. Let's say you have to take evasive actions to get away from another vehicle and hit a ditch. If your axle articulates enough and snaps a line then what?? New brake lines are inexpensive and should not be over looked
12-30-2006 12:29 PM
bakefootball
Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.CLIFFORD View Post
vibration is the first key to disaster. It goes beyond leaky seals and worn out joints. There are numerous cases I hear about all the time of a blown up transfer case. Vibes are not just an annoyance, they are destructive. If you have vibes you need to fix them. If you can't afford a SYE and double cardan drive shaft you need to do a transfer case drop. There is no way around it. Either you do it or you will destroy some stuff. 6 months is no exception to an ill performing jeep. This has nothing to do with off road or wheelin. Daily driving, even small amounts, will do the damage.

Did you even get some extended brake lines? I feel sorry for people in your situation that fall under the trap of "salesman" that just want to make buck. The kit you bought is incomplete, and in my honest opinion, unsafe.

The kit did come with a transfercase lowering kit which I installed. It makes more of a noise that a vibration. No extended brake lines either. However, there does not seem to be any tension in the brake lines. The kit was bought from 4Wheel Parts.
12-30-2006 11:59 AM
MR.CLIFFORD
Quote:
Originally Posted by bakefootball View Post
Thanks, I appreciate it.
It is not an unlimited. I don't plan on doing any off roading untill I can upgrade the the front track bar and cv driveshaft/slip yoke eliminator kit. I am getting some vibration that sounds like it is coming from the rear driveshaft (which has me a little worried). Hopefully, I will be okay for the next 1/2 a year untill I can afford to upgrade.
vibration is the first key to disaster. It goes beyond leaky seals and worn out joints. There are numerous cases I hear about all the time of a blown up transfer case. Vibes are not just an annoyance, they are destructive. If you have vibes you need to fix them. If you can't afford a SYE and double cardan drive shaft you need to do a transfer case drop. There is no way around it. Either you do it or you will destroy some stuff. 6 months is no exception to an ill performing jeep. This has nothing to do with off road or wheelin. Daily driving, even small amounts, will do the damage.

Did you even get some extended brake lines? I feel sorry for people in your situation that fall under the trap of "salesman" that just want to make buck. The kit you bought is incomplete, and in my honest opinion, unsafe.
12-30-2006 11:47 AM
bakefootball
Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.CLIFFORD View Post
You can not run a dropped pitman arm without running a dropped track bar bracket at the frame or raising the track bar bracket at the axle. Furthermore, you do not need either with a 4" lift but you do need to upgrade the adjustable track bar ASAP! I would never drill and weaken an already flimsy bracket to recenter an axle. Most people think that is a good solution when in reality it will lead to faster wear and tear on the stock track bar.

The frame end of the track bar has a pivot joint that bolts up through the frame bracket. It is made to work with the stock suspension setup and in the range of the axles articulation. When you lift the frame higher and raise the mounting point of the track bar you decrease the amount of travel the stock track bar has before it bottoms out. Then you add longer shocks and get more droop you can absolutely bottom out the stock rod end and damage it. Aftermarket track bars take that into consideration when designing adjustable track bars.

Just because you can drill a hole and center the axle does not make it safe or correct. With a 4 inch suspension lift you will have vibes(pending this is a normal wrangler and not an unlimited) and the only way to correct the vibes is to lower the transfer case skid, a motor mount lift, or a double cardan drive shaft with SYE. You will need to drive your jeep around and test for vibes and work up from there.
Thanks, I appreciate it.
It is not an unlimited. I don't plan on doing any off roading untill I can upgrade the the front track bar and cv driveshaft/slip yoke eliminator kit. I am getting some vibration that sounds like it is coming from the rear driveshaft (which has me a little worried). Hopefully, I will be okay for the next 1/2 a year untill I can afford to upgrade.
12-30-2006 11:30 AM
MR.CLIFFORD You can not run a dropped pitman arm without running a dropped track bar bracket at the frame or raising the track bar bracket at the axle. Furthermore, you do not need either with a 4" lift but you do need to upgrade the adjustable track bar ASAP! I would never drill and weaken an already flimsy bracket to recenter an axle. Most people think that is a good solution when in reality it will lead to faster wear and tear on the stock track bar.

The frame end of the track bar has a pivot joint that bolts up through the frame bracket. It is made to work with the stock suspension setup and in the range of the axles articulation. When you lift the frame higher and raise the mounting point of the track bar you decrease the amount of travel the stock track bar has before it bottoms out. Then you add longer shocks and get more droop you can absolutely bottom out the stock rod end and damage it. Aftermarket track bars take that into consideration when designing adjustable track bars.

Just because you can drill a hole and center the axle does not make it safe or correct. With a 4 inch suspension lift you will have vibes(pending this is a normal wrangler and not an unlimited) and the only way to correct the vibes is to lower the transfer case skid, a motor mount lift, or a double cardan drive shaft with SYE. You will need to drive your jeep around and test for vibes and work up from there.
12-30-2006 11:20 AM
bakefootball
06 Tj Help

I just finished installing a 4in procomp lift on my 06 TJ. The kit did not include a pitman arm. Is the stock pitman arm okay with that much lift? I checked with the salesman that sold me the lift kit and he says it is required. I am not sure if he is just being a salesman because he also told me that the front adjustable track bar is required. But, I did some research and found out that I could drill a hole 3/4 over to fix that problem. Don't get me wrong, I am sure that the Adjustable track bar is a much better option but money is a little tight right now being christmas and all. I plan on upgrading to the adjustable track bar, cv driveshaft, and slip yoke eliminator kit eventually but for now my money is tight. So, will I be okay for a while with the stock pitman arm and without the slip yoke eliminator and cv driveshaft?

Thanks,
Rookie

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