|10-26-2009 09:27 PM|
|ou812||x's 2,not long at all|
|10-26-2009 08:13 PM|
|10-25-2009 11:12 PM|
|KBR97||how long of a job should I expect this to be for somewhat pretty mechanically inclined...I know the intake and stuff needs to be apart as well.|
|10-25-2009 10:41 PM|
|ou812||Plus expect the miles per gallon to be a little better after the header change,with the cracked header I got 14mog after the egay header I get 17mpg|
|10-25-2009 10:39 PM|
I searched ebay and bought a stainless steel header,Dont remember the name brand but I brought it to Autozone to compare it to there Name brand S.S. header (Doorman) and it looks identical except mine had better looking welds,The Doorman was $279 at Autozone,Mine was $90 shipped with collector gasket.No complaints and install was easy,Heres a tip a couple days before the new header arrives spray the studs that you can reach with some Aero-Kroil to help break them loose,run the Jeep to get the engine to normal temps and lossen the studs with the engine warm.Helps alot.At 70,000 miles the owner bought a stock header to replace the original cracked one,@ 135,000 the second header cracked right when I bought it.
I cant really say there will be any noticible diffrence in performance just the header change,yes theres more airflow than the stock cast header but im running the same stock muffler.omething else i noticed was the the stainless header ports were more lonie up than the factory cast ones so If a port in polish job was in mind it would be alot smoother job,its closer,heres the egay link below
JEEP EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEADER cherokee wrangler comanche:eBay Motors (item 110448557858 end time Oct-31-09 21:00:00 PDT)
|10-25-2009 10:21 PM|
|Timberman||Yeah, those flex joint manifolds are great for you guys who have Jeeps that are model years 97-99.. Those of us who have newer ones (2000 hear) cannot find them.. I just installed the Banks and if is cracks, so be it.... I am in love with the power that last component unleashed!!|
|10-25-2009 08:55 PM|
Just ordered my new manifold yesterday off ebay. $70 bucks including gasket.
Now I dont have to listen to the little machine gun shots when i let off the gas..lol.
|10-25-2009 07:43 PM|
|10-25-2009 06:50 PM|
I made the mistake of buying Borla headers, and I'm sick of my loud ass exhaust from the crack.
I'm going to do it right next time and buy the eBay ones
|10-25-2009 06:47 PM|
|10-10-2009 05:20 PM|
|Wolf74||So if not Banks or Borla then what brand of headers are best and don't have a tendency of cracking? Seems like the no name ebay type are the ones that are winning the day here|
|09-24-2009 01:18 AM|
|BOYDTJ||Mine didnt crack anywhere near where the flex joints on the new one is.... It cracked at the collector (where all the pipes go into one)... And not really cracked, more or less broke there. Started as a crack tho|
|09-23-2009 02:22 AM|
it will crack just a matter of time
|09-23-2009 12:38 AM|
|09-22-2009 10:58 PM|
|jerryj||So how many cracked Banks headers have you seen ??|
|09-22-2009 07:03 PM|
I'd rather pay less for a non-Banks/Borla and get a header that will not crack than all the "lifetime warranties" in the world since my time spent changing multiple cracked headers is worth more than that. When an OE or inexpensive eBay header doesn't crack because it has the steel bellows yet expensive headers like from Banks that crack because they didn't bother to update their design, I just don't know what to say... except that I would never recommend installing a Banks or Borla header. At least in my personal opinion, their normally well respected name means nothing in terms of being a better quality header where a Jeep 4.0L is concerned.
|09-22-2009 06:13 PM|
I just did mine 2 weeks ago, it was not bad at all. I didn't use the e-bay header becuase I couldn't find any of the sellers that would ship to Hawaii, so I bought the factory replacement flex version from A1 Auto. (Free shipping)
Use the write-up at Daily Driven TJ. Here is the link: [Repair] Exhaust Manifold Replacement Guide
I went right by the write-up and had it all back together in 4 and 1/2 hrs by myself and I was going nice and slow, taking time to clean all the parts I took off. It's very detailed and gives you all the torque specs and sequence for tightening. Good luck.
|09-22-2009 10:34 AM|
|Cons_Table||Me and my buddy replaced my headers cuz I had a knarly crack in mine also. We disconnected the intake manifold and all of the injectors, and were able to get enough wiggle room to get the old exhaust manifold out and get the new one wiggled into place. If youve got a couple sets of hands it makes things pretty easy, it only took us a couple hours.|
|09-22-2009 09:59 AM|
I know it looks cheap but they work
|09-22-2009 09:47 AM|
|jerryj||No YOU dont need a manual, theres a lot of specific torque settings and tightening orders I like mine to be right,you could wing it if you want though and take your chances.|
|09-22-2009 04:40 AM|
You don't need a manual to change a header, just alot of socket extensions and about 4 hours of spare time. For the header get one off ebay that has the flex joints built in, when I did mine a few months ago it was about $70 shipped.
|09-21-2009 11:13 PM|
|jerryj||I did a Banks on mine Guaranteed for life it took about 1/2 a day and you do have to take basically 1/2 the motor out but its easy enough I used a chiltons book and went step by step It was gonna cost over 300$ labor at a shop.|
|09-21-2009 10:46 PM|
I dont know how hard it is cause i didnt fix my cracked one yet, lol. How hard can it be though. If your somewhat mechanically inclined and have done some motor work before then go for it. Buy a repair manual to guide you along if needed and a friend to help out. Shouldn't be more than a few hours to complete.
Oh and buy a header/manifold that has the "flex" section in it. This way it wont crack again.
|09-21-2009 09:29 PM|
|97GATJ||I need a couple more posts so I can list things for sale on here.|
|09-20-2009 12:43 AM|
|BOYDTJ||Noone knows how hard or easy it is to change the header?????|
|09-18-2009 10:17 PM|
So my stock header has a horrible crack... More like a split... And i am goin to have to replace it... I was looking through the old threads and saw that the banks and the gale have a problem with cracking... I was wondering if anyone has tried the rugged ridge... Also was wondering if anyone had installed one their self... How hard is it and do you have to disconect all the vaccum lines and all like the instuctions on the internet say??? On it is a 99 wrangler sport 4.0