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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-17-2013 08:35 AM
Hammerwalk
Quote:
Originally Posted by racefan88 View Post
might be that the flywheel is glazed really should turn it when installing a new clutch but may be ok after some break in time
By turn it, do you mean have it machined? Everything I had read, and even my mechanic said not to.(although my mechanic did agree that I should have just replaced the flywheel at the same time) Also, it has been over a month now since i have replaced the clutch and it is still bad. Slightly better than it was, but not anywhere near where it was prior to clutch replacement.

I had my wife drive it to work the other day, and she agreed that it wasnt right. She said "it used to be so smooth on the hill by the hospital, i didn't even have to give it gas, now it shudders enough to knock my fillings loose"

10-16-2013 05:45 PM
racefan88 might be that the flywheel is glazed really should turn it when installing a new clutch but may be ok after some break in time
10-16-2013 01:40 PM
Hammerwalk
Quote:
Originally Posted by eboven View Post
I didn't happen to take any pics, but if you click on the link for the $65 part that I listed, you get a good pic of it. The part broke right where the flange for the bolts meets the sleeve that the bearing slides on. The sleeve was just floating around on the input shaft making the strange bad bearing sound I was hearing. Whenever I depressed the clutch, the sleeve would slide a bit along with the bearing and that was causing my clicking and weird feedback in the pedal.

Once the trans is out, you can tell right away - the bearing should slide on the sleeve without moving the sleeve at all. If the sleeve can move, it's broken. I didn't have any experience with this either the first time, so I overlooked the problem when it was staring me in the face...
I found some pictures on the web of someone that had the same issue where it snapped. I see what you are talking about now. I am confident that if that piece was broken, my neighbor would have said something while he was replacing the TOB, but I will be sure to take an extra look at it while I can when i do this all over again. Probably within the next weekend or two.
10-16-2013 01:39 PM
Hammerwalk
Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2611 View Post
FWIW for the $50 odd bucks that you can get a fly wheel for....I had mine replaced when I had a new clutch installed 2 years ago....and still runs great. This is for the "next guy" using this thread to HELP do the clutch...IMO if you are that far into it just replace flywheel for $50 odd and not have that question in your mind.....
100% agree. I wasn't sure if the $50 LUK flywheel from RockAuto.com was any good compared to the $450 MOPAR flywheel (usually a price difference of that much tells me something) So i didnt buy a replacement.

Knowing what I know now, I would have purchased the flywheel as well and just be done with it.

Live and learn, right?
10-16-2013 01:26 PM
eboven I didn't happen to take any pics, but if you click on the link for the $65 part that I listed, you get a good pic of it. The part broke right where the flange for the bolts meets the sleeve that the bearing slides on. The sleeve was just floating around on the input shaft making the strange bad bearing sound I was hearing. Whenever I depressed the clutch, the sleeve would slide a bit along with the bearing and that was causing my clicking and weird feedback in the pedal.

Once the trans is out, you can tell right away - the bearing should slide on the sleeve without moving the sleeve at all. If the sleeve can move, it's broken. I didn't have any experience with this either the first time, so I overlooked the problem when it was staring me in the face...
10-16-2013 01:08 PM
Hammerwalk
Quote:
Originally Posted by eboven View Post
When you removed the trans the first time, did you happen to notice if the sleeve that the throwout bearing slides on was solidly attached, or if it was loose? See this post I just made for my experiences with that. Your clutch feedback sounds very familiar; not to say your issue is the same, but it's worth looking into.
"Needless to say, I knew something was still wrong. Being a DD, I decided to drive it for a bit and see if anything worked itself out. It didn't. I ended up dropping the trans again, and with the help of my co-worker, determined that the transmission's input gear retainer had also broken. This is the shaft that the release bearing slides back and forth on, it's flanged on one end and bolts around the transmission's input shaft. The initial break was very clean, and when I had first replaced the clutch, I didn't notice anything that looked broken or damaged. I also didn't have the experience to tell me that the shaft sleeve needed to be attached. It took me awhile to track down the part; the dealer wanted over $200 for a simple piece of cast aluminum. I found it on Quadratec for $65, but they had a 3 week backorder on the part. After a bunch of searching and getting very close to bending over for the dealership, I found it at a local transmission shop for $45!"

Are you talking about that portion? I will be sure to check around my part of town to see if it is available. Did you by chance take pictures? With this being only my second time of dealing with a transmission, I am not always sure what to look for, or what does / doesn't look normal.

As far as the sleeve the TOB was on, I didnt notice because the TOB was compeltely destroyed (picks posted earlier in thread) also because while i was taking care of pressure plate and clutch, neighbor (whom has more experience with this than i do) worked on the TOB and clutch spring (the $2 part from QT).

What caught my eye on your post was the "couple of clicks on its travel" mine does this. I should re-word my symptoms with the clutch pedal. It doesn't necessarily pulsate, but its definitely not smooth. It just doesn't come back out smooth. I can feel vibration in it.
10-15-2013 07:55 PM
jp2611 FWIW for the $50 odd bucks that you can get a fly wheel for....I had mine replaced when I had a new clutch installed 2 years ago....and still runs great. This is for the "next guy" using this thread to HELP do the clutch...IMO if you are that far into it just replace flywheel for $50 odd and not have that question in your mind.....
10-15-2013 07:39 PM
eboven When you removed the trans the first time, did you happen to notice if the sleeve that the throwout bearing slides on was solidly attached, or if it was loose? See this post I just made for my experiences with that. Your clutch feedback sounds very familiar; not to say your issue is the same, but it's worth looking into.
10-15-2013 01:39 PM
Hammerwalk Now that you say that, it wont surprise me if we did manage to screw up the pilot bearing. We had to kick out the jack that we were using because it wouldnt give us the angle we needed and had to literally bench-press the transmission into place by hand.

Thanks for the tip, but as far as the fly wheel, I found a LUK flywheel from Rockauto.com for $53.79. Not sure what makes the MOPAR flywheel so damned expensive, and i prefer quality, but if i can save more than a few hundred bones, I prefer to do so.
10-15-2013 01:21 PM
Water Dog While you're in there, make sure the new pilot bearing you installed wasn't screwed up by the transmission input shaft when you installed it the first time. When putting the transmission back on the engine, it's pretty critical to try and keep the bell housing face and the back of the engine block parallel, on the same plane, and at the same height as you slide them together.
10-15-2013 12:00 PM
Hammerwalk ok, so bringing up this thread again.

Things have not been any better. Chatter is still there, and there is a pulse in the clutch pedal now when i release. Looks like I am dropping this bad boy again to check it all out.

I am going in prepared, and getting a new flywheel. My question is, what is the difference between the $450 MOPAR flywheel, and the $75 Quadratec AMS flywheel?

It has been just over a month since i replaced clutch, TOB and pressure plate. Should the clutch still be ok, or will I have to purchase a new clutch as well?

Is there anything else i can check to make sure no other damage is there? I really dont want to have to do this BS again. not my idea of fun
09-28-2013 09:36 PM
Hammerwalk Everything from what I can tell looks good and tight and dry.
09-28-2013 02:45 PM
Water Dog Usually clutch chatter comes from one of two things, either oil on the clutch plate or misalignment. If I were you, I would take a flashlight, crawl under your Jeep and take a quick look at where the bell housing meets the engine block. Make sure there isn't any gaps where maybe a wire or something got pinched between them...(this happened to me years ago after a clutch replacement), or perhaps, where it just wasn't pulled up tight.
09-28-2013 01:51 PM
Hammerwalk I just wanted to give an update on this in the hopes that it may help someone else down the road.

After 2 weeks since my clutch, pressure plate and TOB was replaced, the chatter I get in 1st and reverse have gone down to manageable levels. I still notice it and its still difficult to ride the clutch on a hill but it is much better.

Very glad that I will not have to drop the transmission again.
09-16-2013 09:25 AM
Hammerwalk
Quote:
Originally Posted by obidya View Post
I hate the trust issues after a big fix or break, it's such a betrayal.. lol
Hopefully all is well sounds like it will be.
You got that right! I couldn't sleep last night cause I was trying to wrap my brain around everything we had done and if I had screwed something up. First time doing a clutch.
09-16-2013 09:23 AM
Hammerwalk Not NAPA,it's Oreilly's but looks like they did the same with tossing in the extra bearing. And the "instructions" were a joke. Didn't even give a parts list of what's included.
09-16-2013 09:10 AM
mudmagnet63 If that is a napa clutch it comes with the extra bearing. I had the same thing on my daughters 02. It was panic time when we found that bearing. All is good with it though.
09-16-2013 08:45 AM
obidya I hate the trust issues after a big fix or break, it's such a betrayal.. lol
Hopefully all is well sounds like it will be.
09-16-2013 08:23 AM
Hammerwalk Thanks for the reply. Perhaps I just over reacted. It felt ok going into work, just when I try to ride the clutch. But a little feathering of the gas smoothed everything ok.

I let it slide for a week and go from there. I hope this is the end of my troubles. Thanks again to all who replied and help with advice / part numbers / etc. great group of people @ Wrangler forum
09-16-2013 06:45 AM
JimsJeep The smaller bearing is the pilot bearing, no problem. I do not know what the bigger on is for, perhaps for a different vehicle and was included in a universal kit. Definitely not a part you forgot to install. Just did a replacement myself. I have heard of others who had there flywheel surfaced and experienced a shudder like you have so maybe a previous owner did have it surfaced. If that is the case it should wear in pretty quickly.
09-15-2013 11:02 PM
Hammerwalk Ok, freaking out right now.


I did a google image search for 2002 pilot bearing and it came up with the picture I supplied.

I found the bearing that I replaced , the old one is next to the one I had left over.

I'm confused and really hoping that I didn't screw this up. I really really don't want to have to do that again.
09-15-2013 08:45 PM
Hammerwalk I just shot it with some break cleaner and wiped it off. I had read that if you wanted to clean the fly wheel from debris or dust to use cleaner.

I also had to replace slave cylinder. Could that be a culprit? Is this a sign of slipping?

The pilot bearing that I pulled out was the exact size as what I put in. Just a simple ring with bearings and a seal.
09-15-2013 08:41 PM
JimsJeep Did you have your flywheel surfaced or did you just clean it up. Surfacing it is not recommended.

The pilot bearing for the 4 cyl is only about 3/4" diameter. don't know what that is for.
09-15-2013 08:29 PM
Hammerwalk Trams mount looked great. Solid rubber. No missing chunks and no wobble. Pressure plate torqued to specs, old pilot bearing removed, new pilot bearing installed.

The only thing we noticed was that the new throw out bearing had minimal play when we slid it on. It was slightly bigger in diameter than original. We called a guy that builds transmissions and said it sounds like its within normal play. Aftermarket parts aren't exact occasionally. Also, the only part we had left over was, what I thought to be, pilot bearing for the 4 cylinder.

See attached image. I could find nowhere else where this would go, or replace.
09-15-2013 07:25 PM
JimsJeep What did you trans mount look like when you disconnected it. Might be shot or possibly did you forget to tighten it fully.
09-15-2013 07:01 PM
Hammerwalk Ok so everything is back in order as running. However, when I ride the clutch , say to go backwards or starting on a hill , there is a shudder that I don't like. Does the new clutch need to wear in, or is this abnormal?
09-15-2013 09:31 AM
JimsJeep It's a lot easier the second time around. LOL
09-15-2013 09:17 AM
Hammerwalk We ( my neighbor and I, thank goodness for his air ratchet and impact ) got everything put back to gather then found that my slave cylinder got damaged in the process and had to be replaced. So all I have left to do is bleed the clutch , put console back together and install cross member and were done!

I hope it'll be a very long time before I ever have to do that again. And yes, the clutch set came with new pilot bearing.
09-15-2013 08:34 AM
JimsJeep Well on the upside it's always helps to find the cause of the problem, and you did.

Make sure you change out the pilot bearing and it's always good to change out the trans fluid while it's out.
09-14-2013 11:36 PM
Water Dog
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammerwalk View Post
Throw out bearing exploded!
Yep, It sure did...! Did you get it all back together?
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