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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-02-2009 02:53 PM
whitebuffalo you'll need master install kits for both ends.

i dont know if the carrier brake is the same on both, but you may need carriers on both ends as well. i think its 3.73 and up on both ends....meaning, if you have 3.55s now, you'll need new carriers in both axles.


i dont know if its been mentioned or not yet, but if you're having a shop install them, buy them there. otherwise any potential warranty issue is gonna screw you. if you have a buddy/club member doing it, then shop away.
11-02-2009 01:43 PM
Vaultzz Woops, your right, heres the rear gears: Superior Axle & Gear D35373 - Superior Axle & Gear Ring and Pinions for 87-06 Jeep Wrangler YJ & TJ & 84-01 Cherokee XJ with Dana 35 Rear Axle - Quadratec

and I'm trying to find the best price on fixing that exhaust leak, I tried fixing it myself and well that didn't work out so well
11-02-2009 11:54 AM
whitebuffalo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaultzz View Post

Whaddya think?
i think you either mis-linked or else bought two sets of gears for your front axle.
11-02-2009 09:22 AM
morphious fix that exhaust leak asap it will probably help a lot of things ur losing back pressure out that thing like crazy and it probably will help ur gas mileage and overall performance
11-01-2009 02:55 AM
Vaultzz So I'm going to be doing my gearing pretty soon ( as soon as I get all the parts together ) and I just wanted to run it by your guys and make sure I'm getting everything I need, or not getting something that don't need:

Heres the gears:
Front: Superior Axle & Gear D30411R - Superior Axle & Gear Ring and Pinions for 84-99 Jeep® Wrangler YJ & Cherokee XJ with High Pinion Dana 30 Front Axle - Quadratec (4.56)
Rear: Superior Axle & Gear D30411R - Superior Axle & Gear Ring and Pinions for 84-99 Jeep® Wrangler YJ & Cherokee XJ with High Pinion Dana 30 Front Axle - Quadratec (4.56)

They also recommend these:
Alloy USA 352049 - Alloy USA Rear Ring & Pinion Master Installation & Overhaul Kit for 84-06 Jeep® Cherokee XJ, Wrangler YJ & TJ with Dana 35 Axle - Quadratec
Original Replacement Parts 83500169 - Standard Differential Case with Gear Set for 87-06 Jeep® Wrangler YJ & TJ & 84-01 Cherokee XJ w/ 3.73, 4.10 & 4.56 Ratio - Quadratec

Whaddya think?
10-09-2009 11:43 AM
Vaultzz I've got a inline 6 carburetor. I'll probably move to 35's as soon as i can after i get the gearing since space is no issue.

Also my buddy has a '94 YJ with 35's and stock gearing and he can out run me on the highway some how. However street wise we're matched. Would that be because of my exhaust leak of the fact that he has a fuel injected inline 6?

(the exhaust leak is just after the exhaust manifold, the broken pipe is supposed to send some exhaust back through the air filter to be recycled)
10-09-2009 09:07 AM
whitebuffalo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaultzz View Post
Hello

Currently I have stock gearing and axles running 33X12.5 tires. (theres no power in 5th gear, its just got enough to keep going at the same speed on level land) I'd eventually like to upgrade to 35's but I've been told that I won't even be able to move if I got new tires but not new gearing. I don't even know what gearing involves let alone what I'd need to get.

So I'm asking what kind of gearing would I need to run 35's and have decent ability with light duty off roading.

Thanks everybody
what engine are you running?

I'll plus 1 that you should go one set lower (numerically higher) than you think you want. I'm running 4.88s with 33"s.
10-09-2009 08:58 AM
morphious yeah fredo if u don't know much about jeeps u will by the time u get out of here i usually find something new everyday and u will be mechanically inclined if u have ur jeep for any length of time
10-08-2009 11:41 PM
KJ139 All of the Explorers have 8.8's, as do the Ford Rangers. I just double-checked online and some sites say that only 1995 and later Explorers have 31-spline axles, while others say that all Explorers have 31-spline axles. I had always been told that the 1995 and later Explorers have the 31-spline shafts, but maybe that is erroneous and just the disks were added then. Avoid the Ranger axles, as all but the FX4 have 28-spline axle shafts. Super easy swap for a very strong axle. If you upgrade to Superior Gear's Super 88 Kit, you would be hard-pressed to break an axle if you're on 35's or less.

It's definately fun learning what will work and how to get it without paying a fortune or having to have a mechanic do the work it for you. Just wait until you install it; you will be on top of the world. Learning what to put in, searching for the right part in the junkyard or on Craigslist, finding it and putting it in...It's a great feeling to accomplish something like that. After I installed mine, I went out into the garage a few times every night just to peek at it under my rig. It is fun to wheel, but it's even better to wheel on something you built or installed. Plus, after doing a few of these upgrades, you'll have people coming out of the woodwork to get you to help them with their project...Good stuff.

I'm planning on running 40's under my new YJ, so last weekend I got a rear Dana 60 off Craigslist for free. I gave the kid $20 bucks for being cool and offering something for free (a rare quality these days). Tomorrow I am picking up a front Dana 60 for $400 that is complete with disk brakes. I've never narrowed an axle before and both of these will require narrowing. I'm super excited to learn a new skill and achieve something new that will save me money and make my rig bullet proof. A snew et of Dynatrac Dana 60's costs $10k. I figure after I install lockers, gears, narrower shafts, cut and weld the tubes and add disk brakes to the rear, I will have less than $3k invested...Again, good stuff!
10-08-2009 05:53 PM
FREDO 4X4 I also found out from searching alot of sites about swaping out to the 8.8. that its all 1991-2001 Explorer axles, but beginning in 1995, they also had disc brakes. A rear disc brake swap on most drum-equipped axles costs at least $450-600 by itself. im no pro here im just trying to take in as much info as i can. I was not aware of the technical info needed to own a jeep but i kinda like it.
10-08-2009 05:28 PM
Vaultzz ooh my first possible sticky
10-08-2009 04:10 PM
southernculture this should almost be a sticky, alot of good info in here!!!! I dont even need to ask a question, they have all been answered.
10-08-2009 12:19 AM
KJ139
Quote:
Originally Posted by FREDO 4X4 View Post
this all sounds good. i got a 93 yj with the 30/35 dana set up too. I been doing some heavy searching for a new rear diff im kinda sold on the 8.8 there now and i found one off a 2000 explorer for 350$. Im pretty sure im going to grab it up but the only bad part is it only has 3:73s so im going to have to change the gears in it and in my dana 30. Also im pretty sold on the 4:56 cause i got 33" right now but plan on moving to 35 another reason why i want to switch to the 8.8. so the question here is when im searching for new gears for the dana 30 and the 8.8 i keep finding like mustang, f-150etc. and for the dana 30 i get stuff like tj short, tj reverse, cj something or other. anyways will all these different crown and pinions fit on the rears or just the ones off like explorers and yjs. thanks alot guys and sorry im a new guy here.

No apologies...We were were all new at some point. Before I built my XJ, I had only ever changed spark plugs, oil, and brake pads every decade. Because of websites like this and the help the members game me, I swapped the engine, rebuilt the transfer case, bent and welded in a cage, completely rebuilt lots of axles and lots more "advanced" building...This is a great place to get information!

The designation of "reverse", refers to reverse cut gears (often called reverse rotation, which is not accurate). Reverse cut gears are stronger, as the convex side of the gears bears the load when driving forward, which spreads the load over more of the tooth. This is why the high-pinion (reverse cut gears) front Dana 30's are so much better than the low pinion; not to mention that the front driveshaft angle and ground clearance are MUCH better. These are super easy to find, as they are under almost every XJ, YJ & TJ, with the exception of a few years that used low pinion (like the 2000 & 2001 XJ's). Needless to say, you don't want the vacuum disconnect, as it adds a weak-point in the passenger side axle shaft. A non-disco, high-pinion front Dana 30 will handle 33's no problem, and 35's if properly built (that is what I run on my XJ with 35's and I crawl it hard). You may even get away with 37's, although that is pushing the U-joints. People will often give these away, as they are frequently ditched for Dana 44's, 60's, etc., when people go above 35-inch tires.

If you switch the gears in a Dana 30, you will need to know if it is high-pinion (reverse cut) or low pinion (standard cut). If the driveshaft comes out of the "chunk" (differential) above the center line, then it is high pinion...below = low pinion. Certain gear ratios require certain carriers. I think the cut off is 3.55 and below, and 3.73 and above (for a Dana 30); however, it has been a while since I checked.

I like Dana 44's (I have two sitting in the garage right now), but the fact that the CJ's are probably narrower, the cost to change to disk brakes, not to mention the work involved, would steer me toward the 8.8. The guys at T&T Customs sell axle trusses (I put one on my Dana 30), but they will tell you you don't need one for the 8.8, as it is strong enough without a truss. The only problem with the 8.8, is that every now and then, under extreme horsepower, the tubes will spin. A simple fix is to weld beads around the center section where the axles are pressed in. To be fair, even though I've "heard" of this happening, I've never met anyone who's actually experienced it.

For the 8.8, I am not aware of them offering anything other than a low-pinion, so gear selection should be very easy. It has an 8.8-inch ring gear that is very strong, as well as 31-spine axles that are also strong. Add disk brakes and $350 is money well spent. If you install the gears yourself, you're only in it a couple of hundred more and you will have an outstanding axle for your size of tires & horsepower. If you are seriously planning on going to 35's, I would seriously consider going to 4.88's, but 4.56's will work so long as you have a manual transmission.
Good luck!
10-07-2009 07:44 PM
FREDO 4X4 OH and i forgot i also found a guy selling what he says is a dana 44 front and dana 44 rear off a early 70's willys cj5 what do you think of this. i would still have to swap out the gears and the brakes im sure are ancient and would have to be completely replaced. anyways it would be nice to here your comments.
10-07-2009 07:38 PM
FREDO 4X4 this all sounds good. i got a 93 yj with the 30/35 dana set up too. I been doing some heavy searching for a new rear diff im kinda sold on the 8.8 there now and i found one off a 2000 explorer for 350$. Im pretty sure im going to grab it up but the only bad part is it only has 3:73s so im going to have to change the gears in it and in my dana 30. Also im pretty sold on the 4:56 cause i got 33" right now but plan on moving to 35 another reason why i want to switch to the 8.8. so the question here is when im searching for new gears for the dana 30 and the 8.8 i keep finding like mustang, f-150etc. and for the dana 30 i get stuff like tj short, tj reverse, cj something or other. anyways will all these different crown and pinions fit on the rears or just the ones off like explorers and yjs. thanks alot guys and sorry im a new guy here.
10-06-2009 07:20 PM
KJ139
Quote:
Originally Posted by moneypit89 View Post
Ok question i have a 89 yj with the stock gearing and 33's. I have the oportunity to get front and rear 4 cyl axles used of course with 4:10s for 350 obo. Does anyone think that that would be better than rebuilding the ones i have to make them a little stronger? Im in the same situation as Vaultzz. And i really want to do something.
I would search for a Ford 8.8 out of a 1997 or later Explorer (they have 31-spline shafts, whereas the earlier Explorers and Rangers have 29-spline, except in some rarer occasions). These come with disk brakes, are the same 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern, come spring under, and are almost the perfect width (they are just a hair narrower, but not enough to worry about (like 1/2 inch). I let one of the local tow drivers know what I was looking for and he got me one out of a vehicle nobody picked up (that they sold for scrap) and sold it to me for $50 delivered. The 8.8 in similar in strength to a Dana 44 and will handle 35's with no problem; and you can install the Superior Super 88 kit (adds chromoly and gets rid of the c-clips) if you want to later.

With the other $300 you save, you could buy gears & set-up kits (probably a few more bucks) for your front dana 30 and the 8.8. I would go with 4.56's for 33's. I wouldn't buy a carrier for the Dana 30, as I am sure we can find you one for free (there are a ton of Dana 30 carriers swapped out when lockers are installed). In fact, I may even still have one lying around somewhere.

That set-up will yield better braking and very sturdy axles for 33's. Of course, while you are in there, you should consider lockers if the money is available. If you decide to re-gear yourself, let me know and I can walk you through everything. It isn't as difficult as people think, so long as you have a few specialty tools and take your time and measure repeatedly.

Good luck!
10-06-2009 01:58 AM
Vaultzz So then according to everybody's helpful input would this be what I need to get?
10-05-2009 10:53 PM
moneypit89 Ok question i have a 89 yj with the stock gearing and 33's. I have the oportunity to get front and rear 4 cyl axles used of course with 4:10s for 350 obo. Does anyone think that that would be better than rebuilding the ones i have to make them a little stronger? Im in the same situation as Vaultzz. And i really want to do something.
10-05-2009 10:17 PM
KJ139 I've installed a lot of gears and lockers over the years and one thing that always holds true...Install one size shorter (numerically higher) than you expect to install. The mistake most people make when thinking about gearing, is they think they will lose their gas mileage if they go shorter. This can be true if you go crazy short and do a lot of freeway driving on flat freeways (no hills). What actually happens, is with taller gears, your mileage suffers around town and on hills, because the rig has to work much harder to get going (like starting off riding a ten-speed bike in the wrong gear). Your OD or 5th gear will more than handle this higher ratio at freeway speeds (70-80 MPH).

Last year I put 3.55's and Tru-Tracs in my boss' YJ and he was running 31's. I told him to go to 3.73's or 4.10's (in case he goes to bigger tires in the future); he argued about the gas mileage, so I put in the 3.55's. He wishes he went shorter.

About two weeks later, I intalled 4.10's and Tru-Tracs in a co-worker's YJ who was running 33's. Again, he wishes he had gone to 4.56's. Don't get me wrong, the new gearing will work much better than stock, but the power is SOOO much better if you go one shorter.

Personally, I would go with 4.88's for 35's. I installed 4.56's in my XJ running 35's and it wasn't long before I bought 4.88's (which are still in the box until I can get the time to tear it down). The 4.56's are better than the stock 3.55's, but on hills it is a dog.

The only downside to installing 4.88's instead of 4.56's, is that on the front Dana-30, the 4.56's have three ring teeth in contact with the pinion teeth, while the 4.88's only have two. If you're not stomping on the skinny pedal with your tires wedged between rocks, it shouldn't be a problem at all. That being said, it is something to consider, as once you install chromoly shafts, tougher U-joints, etc., suddenly the small D-30 ring & pinion can become your weak point.

As someone mentioned before, I wouldn't put 35's on with the Dana-35, unless you're putting in the Super-35 kit as well. If you're not, you're throwing your money away, as the Dana-35 WILL break.

I will soon be installing 4.56's in another co-worker's MJ, so he can run 33's. I traded some parts for a Dana 44 rear for him. For the first time ever, I think someone will be happy with their gearing right away...

Good luck!
10-05-2009 10:07 PM
KJ139 I've installed a lot of gears and lockers over the years and one thing that always holds true...Install one size shorter (numerically higher) than you expect to install. The mistake most people make when thinking about gearing, is they think they will lose their gas mileage if they go shorter. This can be true if you go crazy short and do a lot of freeway driving on flat freeways (no hills). What actually happens, is with taller gears, your mileage suffers around town and on hills, because the rig has to work much harder to get going (like starting off riding a ten-speed bike in the wrong gear). Your OD or 5th gear will more than handle this higher ratio at freeway speeds (70-80 MPH).

The charts are great starting points, but I don't think they are as reliable as people think. If you increase your tire size a little, the chart ratios are not too bad. Once you get up around 35's and above, you are adding a ton of rolling weight and work for your Jeep, and it is necessary to increase the ratio even more than listed on the charts.

Last year I put 3.55's and Tru-Tracs in my boss' YJ and he was running 31's. I told him to go to 3.73's or 4.10's (in case he goes to bigger tires in the future); he argued about the gas mileage, so I put in the 3.55's. They work well, but he wishes he went shorter, as he still doesn't have the power he had with stock tires.

About two weeks later, I intalled 4.10's and Tru-Tracs in a co-worker's YJ who was running 33's. Again, he wished he had gone to 4.56's. Then he installed a stroker engine, and the ratio works very well now.

Personally, I would go with 4.88's for 35's. I installed 4.56's in my XJ running 35's and it wasn't long before I bought 4.88's (which are still in the box until I can get the time to tear it down). The 4.56's are better than the stock 3.55's, but on hills it is a dog and it is constantly shifting gears in an effort to stay in the power band.

The only downside to installing 4.88's instead of 4.56's, is that on the front Dana-30, the 4.56's have three ring teeth in contact with the pinion teeth, while the 4.88's only have two. If you're not stomping on the skinny pedal with your tires wedged between rocks, it shouldn't be a problem at all. That being said, it is something to consider, as once you install chromoly shafts, tougher U-joints, etc., suddenly the small D-30 ring & pinion can become your weak point.

As someone mentioned before, I wouldn't put 35's on with the Dana-35, unless you're putting in the Super-35 kit as well. If you're not, you're throwing your money away, as the Dana-35 WILL break.

I will soon be installing 4.56's in another co-worker's MJ, so he can run 33's. I traded some parts for a Dana 44 rear for him. For the first time ever, I think someone will be happy with their gearing right away...

Good luck!
10-05-2009 06:15 PM
crafty This should help

10-05-2009 05:57 PM
big orange yj U sound like ur in the same situation I am. Go with 4.10's but be careful because the 35's will put a lot of stress on your rear axle assuming its the stock d35
10-05-2009 12:05 PM
morphious um if u dont have the tools gt the gearing done professionally i have done a rear end rebuild but doc Dave informed me later that i got really lucky that it didnt blow in my face and it takes some knowledge to do it right
10-05-2009 07:19 AM
jgano23 4.10's or 4.56's. i have dana 44's w/ 4.10's i am currently running 31's, but once i get my lift i'll be going with 34" super swampers.
10-05-2009 12:27 AM
Vaultzz
Gearing Suggestions?

Hello

Currently I have stock gearing and axles running 33X12.5 tires. (theres no power in 5th gear, its just got enough to keep going at the same speed on level land) I'd eventually like to upgrade to 35's but I've been told that I won't even be able to move if I got new tires but not new gearing. I don't even know what gearing involves let alone what I'd need to get.

So I'm asking what kind of gearing would I need to run 35's and have decent ability with light duty off roading.

Thanks everybody

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