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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-11-2013 09:22 AM
s14sh3r
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJO View Post
For my LWB Unlimited it was about 100 pounds. Knock off about 15-20 pounds for a TJ would be my guess. The roof rack though is aluminum and light weight.
That's not bad at all, especially considering how beefy it is. I like roof racks myself, I may have to look into getting one somewhere down the road.
10-11-2013 08:51 AM
NJO
Quote:
Originally Posted by s14sh3r View Post
NJO, how much does the base itself weigh?
For my LWB Unlimited it was about 100 pounds. Knock off about 15-20 pounds for a TJ would be my guess. The roof rack though is aluminum and light weight.
10-11-2013 08:15 AM
s14sh3r NJO, how much does the base itself weigh?
10-11-2013 07:42 AM
NJO
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad01 View Post
Can't decide between these myself
I think it all depends on what you want. I chose the Body Armor over all the others for a few reasons.

A. Absolute strength and protection. It is the strongest of all the racks bar none. Its 350/1000lb. rating(moving/stationary) is highly underrated in my book. The base is made of 2" 1/8th inch thick DOM tubing(11 gauge). None of the other racks I researched compared to it. It also protects the rear tub corners from direct impact, scrapes etc.

B. Mounting points. No drilling into the body required. I personally didn't like the racks that use the rear tub as a base, just not as strong. It ties into and bolts to the frame directly in the rear. And uses the 4 A pillar bolts on the sides of the windshield up front. If you happen to have a 1" BL or so, they will provide you the proper spacers out back to compensate for this.

C. Does not hinder functionality in any form. Rear tailgate, front doors, installing or removing hardtop. Folding up or down the soft top including the sunrider feature. Don't need to tilt it or move/unbolt it to change the configuration of your jeep around necessarily. The base is out of the way.

D. Features, price etc. The base roof rack can be had for about $400 shipped(I got mine on sale for $350 shipped). It comes with 4 light tabs up front and 2 out back built in, allowed me to run the wiring inside the tubing neatly. You do not have to buy the top aluminum rack/wind deflector if its not needed. I originally started with the base rack and the adaptors for the Thule/Yakima base foot pads and bars I already owned for my kayaks,skis and snowboards etc, and then eventually got the top aluminum rack as needed for extra carrying capacity for camping. You can also mount all the other typical accessories on it like hi lift jack, jerry cans, pick n shovel, tools etc......since it uses standard 2" DOM tubing, there are a ton of companies that make adaptor kits that will just bolt right on to it, just like you find with the stock Wrangler roll bar. So you are not necessarily stuck to buying products for it from just one company which is a very nice touch.

Its just one of those products where you have to see it in person to see how well its built and how well it integrates with the Wrangler.

If you look at the pics above, you will see a 10 and a 16 foot kayak above my LJ. Those kayaks dry combined weight 150 pounds. They were both stuffed with another 100 pounds worth of gear EASY.........and I drove up about 2000 vertical feet over the course of about 4 miles to get to the top of a mountain with em strapped on. Including nearly a half mile of crawling through a real rocky dry river bed full of 1-3 foot tall rocks boulders that tossed the body all around with a lot of lateral forces places on the rack up top. It didn't loosen up, flex or squeak. Rock solid.

Some people may not need a rack as heavy duty. But if you do, then you should seriously consider this rack as a first option.

The only downsides I would say for it, is if you have a body lift larger 2" or larger, its not going to work without mods being done. And if you have an aftermarket bumper/end caps. Make sure it will fit, or be clearance to fit potentially. I run Metal Cloaks older modular rear bumper(which I see was discontinued)and end caps, and the bottom rear of the base rack was able to neatly fit into the end caps. The end caps actually give it an extra amount of protection on the bottom 90 degree bend. So the bottom corners of my tub are double protected by the end caps, and the rack base.
10-10-2013 11:18 PM
Brad01 Can't decide between these myself
10-10-2013 10:33 PM
HotTotty i'd post pics but it won't let me for some reason
10-10-2013 10:28 PM
HotTotty I have the kargo master with a yakima basket. Great rack easy to take on and off. Plenty of room for my kayaks and camping gear. I would definitely recommend it.
10-10-2013 04:34 PM
Tdog02 I have the Garvin Wilderness rack, it came with my new to me TJ. I can tell you this from living with it... its loud at highway speed. Since most roof racks increase noise, thats not really a huge problem. I don't leave it on all the time but when its on it sucks a mile or two per gallon. That said, its stout, can be installed/removed by one person, no rattles, some pretty well thought out accessories can be purchased for it, I picked up the wind deflector and it cut down on the wind noise. It is so strong that you will be tempted to overload it. I have used it to stand on when trimming trees and it held up to that with no problem. I'm still debating what to use it for on my jeep but I am leaning toward using it as a platform for a roof top tent. FYI: you have to drill a couple of holes in the tub to install this rack.
10-10-2013 12:40 PM
Wodalo
Quote:
Originally Posted by InvictusDecretum View Post
I have a garvin wilderness rack and love it. Bolts onto the A frame and to the rear of Jeep. Has an integrated license plate holder on the rear. I had it bedlined as well (unnecessary). If you ever want to remove your hardtop (or put the softtop down), you unscrew the bolts on the A frame and the whole thing rocks back. It also supports 300-400lbs, so I can throw a sheet of plywood up there and make myself a shelter to sleep in if I wanted. Only drawback I found was that to remove my doors, I had to rock the rack back. I suppose I could grind off part of the mount (only needs like 1/8th of an inch, probably because of the bedlining), but I have steel half doors and meh.


This one is on my Christmas list
10-10-2013 10:48 AM
techflork subscribed!
10-09-2013 02:45 PM
NJO
Quote:
Originally Posted by commodore_dude View Post
This is a good thread! I'd pretty much been set on getting a Gobi rack, but I didn't know some of these options existed (mainly I think I'd heard that the Garvin rack rattles, and that the Olympic rack rusts, and Gobi seems to have good customer service).
I was originally looking at the Gobi rack too and was willing to drop $1500 after seeing all the good reviews........but then I got to see and play with one in person.......man am I glad I didn't drop the coin for it. It is weak and built flimsy compared to Body Armor's Roof rack(which uses thick DOM tubing that is a legitimate outer body protection cage. It attaches to the frmae in the rear(same frame tie in points as if using a Class 3 bumper hitch or upgraded bumper)and the A pillars up front. Its 1000lb. capacity rating(while stationary)is highly underrated. Me and 2 people hung off one side rail(700 plus pounds) and it didn't budge a bit(other than the body and suspension compressing to one side from the weight ) WHats nice too is that you can install or remove the hardtop with it installed, raise or lower the soft top, use the sunrider feature etc etc, and it has adaptors for both Yakima and Thule foot plates as well too. And you cant beat the price being basically half of what the Gobi listed for. I got the base body frame for about $350, and the aluminum top rack for about $400 shipped. The Thule/Yakima footpack adaptor clamps were about $50 as well. $800 in total.....can't beat that.
10-09-2013 02:19 PM
Rubicondon53 I want to add to my post with a photo now that I have some.. I maintain that most anything with hinges or lynch pins will eventually begin to rattle after a decade of highway/off-road use.. This thing is still solid as a rock... Simplicity = dependable. Just my humble opinion
10-09-2013 02:09 PM
commodore_dude This is a good thread! I'd pretty much been set on getting a Gobi rack, but I didn't know some of these options existed (mainly I think I'd heard that the Garvin rack rattles, and that the Olympic rack rusts, and Gobi seems to have good customer service).
10-09-2013 01:54 PM
jasonduke5 I got mine off craigslist for 150 bucks.
10-09-2013 01:00 PM
c1skout I've got a Cargo-Master that I bought used. Hell-for-stout and easy on or off.
10-09-2013 12:36 PM
jasonduke5 I am in the same boat as gold miner I love mine.
10-09-2013 12:04 PM
SnowboarderOx What cross bars are you using on there?
09-26-2013 11:29 PM
NJO I exhausted this search last year for what I consider the best and strongest functional rack. My finding was for max durability, factory type integration, and overall design integration the Body Armor safari rack is top dog. It uses heavy gauge 2" DOM steel tubing throughout, and effectively acts as a perimeter armor cage for your tub(And its very effective too). Bolts direct to the frame/bumper tie ins out back(And Body Armor will send you a set of spacers if you have a body lift), and to the window/A pillars up front via 4 factory bolts. Load capacity is 350lbs while driving. OVER 1000 pounds stationary. Has 4 light tabs up front, and 2 out back. You can get rail adaptors for thule/Yakima bars, and they have an aluminum rack option. You can install or remove the hardtop with it ON. Soft top sunrider feature fully functional with it on, same with dropping the soft top too.

Base rack can be had for around $399, with another $399 for the top aluminum rack.

I was looking at a Gobi rack originally, compared to the Body Armor rack, its weak and flimsy, and it doesn't integrate near as well.
09-26-2013 11:10 PM
InvictusDecretum I have a garvin wilderness rack and love it. Bolts onto the A frame and to the rear of Jeep. Has an integrated license plate holder on the rear. I had it bedlined as well (unnecessary). If you ever want to remove your hardtop (or put the softtop down), you unscrew the bolts on the A frame and the whole thing rocks back. It also supports 300-400lbs, so I can throw a sheet of plywood up there and make myself a shelter to sleep in if I wanted. Only drawback I found was that to remove my doors, I had to rock the rack back. I suppose I could grind off part of the mount (only needs like 1/8th of an inch, probably because of the bedlining), but I have steel half doors and meh.
09-15-2013 12:02 PM
Rubicondon53 I bought my Warrior Safari roof rack back in 1998.. It is a well built, no nonsense rack. It does not rattle, or vibrate.. And unlike many racks, it looks as if it belongs on the jeep.. It is also the rack used on jeeps by the National Parks and National Forrest Services..
09-15-2013 11:53 AM
Gold Miner I have the Kargo Master and have been loving it since 2001. Connects to the body using existing bolts. I carry a full rack of ladders on it occasionally (300lbs+) and it doesn't even flinch. Solid rack system. It's hinged on the back. Two 3/4" bolts up front. Unbolt those two front connections and it hinges back easily so that hard top removal and replacement isn't an issue. The newer Kargo Master system looks slightly different than mine.
Solid rack for sure. After 12yrs I still give it 5 stars.
09-15-2013 11:24 AM
ellie87
Which roof rack?

Need some more advice - this time on a roof rack. Which ones are best? Someone told me that its best to get one that ties into the roll cage, not just bolts into the hard top. Not exactly sure how that works....? Do most roof racks stay on there permanently or can you remove them? Anyway, if I could just get some more info on which ones you all have tried and your opinions I'd be grateful. Thanks!!!

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