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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-18-2009 10:38 AM
Mr. Crowley I have a 2000 Sport, and mine is a LS. I have to buy the friction modifier that's required in my fluid.
10-15-2009 04:04 PM
jdhallissey As to the light being off. I actually don't like it on. Think it gets annoying. You know when your in 4wd or not. That is all that matters.
10-15-2009 03:35 PM
Froggy
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevens243 View Post
The new tires are 1" wider and are most likely rubbing on either the sway bar links or the control arms. Re-check for rub marks there and on your fenders too (the are 1" taller as well).
Turns out that was the ticket. A quadruple check with someone to hold the wheel hard over revealed the tread lugs were just barely contacting the control arms. Thanks for the help.
10-11-2009 07:24 PM
Froggy
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevens243 View Post
The 4HI or part time light isn't going out?
No, it is the other way around -- the light doesn't come on. I'll check on the shifter arm to make sure it is getting full forward but all other behaviour indicates it does get out of 4WD when the handle inside goes into position.
10-11-2009 05:30 PM
stevens243 Wait, I just re-read your OP.

The 4HI or part time light isn't going out?

If the light isn't going out on a TJ, usually it's because it didn't shift back into 2hi. If that's the case, the noise you're hearing is the diff loading up and trying to release that energy when you turn the wheel.

So, crawl under the drivers side and under the skid plate, right next to where the front drive shaft comes out of the xfer case, you'll see your shifter for the xfer case. Make sure that the selector on the xfer case is being pushed all the way forward (toward the front of the jeep).

If not, you'll have to loosen the bolt on the upper rod and then pull the lower rod forward and then tighten the bolt back up. You're 4wd light should go out and the noise should go away.
10-11-2009 04:21 PM
Froggy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wind_Rocker View Post
Without the special tool, if you just grabbed the raised wheel and it turned with little effort, you have an open (standard) rear.
Thanks for that, WindRocker. The wheel spins freely so it looks like this one has the open differential setup. That's a nice simple test that will come in handy while I'm shopping next time around.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevens243 View Post
The new tires are 1" wider and are most likely rubbing on either the sway bar links or the control arms. Re-check for rub marks there and on your fenders too (the are 1" taller as well). With no lift, the 31's are pretty much the limit for tire size and they'll rub at full flex too. You don't say and I can't tell from the pic if you have a lift, so...
Not my rig in the pics... those were borrowed just to illustrate the guards. I'm 99% sure the noise is not tire rub but I'll quadruple check just to make sure. The creaking noise comes even when I'm sitting straight & level on pavement. It is a hard to describe noise, but it is not unlike the sound made by a slowly flexing badly overburdened coil spring.

I take it this is not a common complaint... could it be that U joint (CV joint) binding up?
10-11-2009 03:57 PM
stevens243 [QUOTE=Froggy;457494]Well, maybe not a complete noob as I do know how to get it in 4WD.

The jeep had 30x9.5 tires on it when I bought it. After switching to the 31x10.5 tires I now have a creaking noise coming from the wheel area when I crank the steering..

The new tires are 1" wider and are most likely rubbing on either the sway bar links or the control arms. Re-check for rub marks there and on your fenders too (the are 1" taller as well). With no lift, the 31's are pretty much the limit for tire size and they'll rub at full flex too. You don't say and I can't tell from the pic if you have a lift, so...

And I'm not 100% sure, but I believe that LSD's only came stock on D-44 axles. I do know that my last jeep (2000 w/D35 and 3.73's) did not have LSD's.
10-11-2009 03:27 PM
Wind_Rocker Froggy,

Just found the Trac-Lok test in the manual, tried to copy and paste but not working, manual is in pdf format.

Anyway all it says is to block the front wheels, put Jeep in neutral, jack one rear wheel off the ground. Now it says to remove the wheel and attach special tool that allows a torque wrench to be attached to axle center. If the turning the raised wheel requires less than 30 ft. lbs. of torque, or more than 200 ft. lbs. of torque the Trac-Lok clutches need service.

Without the special tool, if you just grabbed the raised wheel and it turned with little effort, you have an open (standard) rear.

Also, the visual inspection I mentioned in my first reply will work, the clutches should be visible, but you won't see the springs since it has "Bellville
spring washers within the clutch packs" and not external springs like I'm more used to.

There is usually a tag on the fill plug warning you to use special lube or an additive if the rear is some sort of limited slip.
10-11-2009 03:02 PM
ExDementia The bumper scout has is called a stinger, its really meant to stop you from rolling over forwards when coming off a steep obstacle. But as some people can tell you, it can push you off to the side and put you on your side

I don't think thats very common at all, but most people like them for the looks. Including me

Edit: Just realized this post is my 666th post

10-11-2009 03:00 PM
Wind_Rocker [QUOTE=Froggy;457494]Well, maybe not a complete noob as I do know how to get it in 4WD.

one of my buddies says that if one wheel turns clockwise while the other turns counter-clockwise when I have the rear wheels off the ground then the answer is "yes, it does have LS." QUOTE]

Your buddy is wrong unless your clutches are shot and you have it in gear. With both rears wheels off the ground and tranny in neutral, turning one tire should make the other tire turn in the same direction.

You said you bought it from the original owner, what did he do with the window sticker? I always save the sticker when I buy a new vehicle.

The sure way to tell is to pop the cover off the differential and see if the rear has clutchs and springs, usually located between the spider gears that engage the axles and the carrier.
10-11-2009 01:30 PM
Froggy
Newbie with typical batch of noob questions

Well, maybe not a complete noob as I do know how to get it in 4WD.

I recently bought a 2000 Wrangler Sport from its original owner. I put a set of 31x10.5 tires on it but otherwise it is stock. After poking around on the great forum you have here I've learned enough to be able to figure out that it has Dana 35 differentials with 3.73 axle gears, and I've learned that it is an easy fix to replace the switch on the transfer case that is probably all that is keeping the 4WD indicator light from working properly.

What I'm not sure of is whether or not I have limited slip in my rear differential. I find no "LS" marking on the tag attached to the rear differential but one of my buddies says that if one wheel turns clockwise while the other turns counter-clockwise when I have the rear wheels off the ground then the answer is "yes, it does have LS." Is it that simple? Is this an indicator the jeep has LS or do all jeeps perform this way and LS is different? How can I tell if I have LS?

The jeep had 30x9.5 tires on it when I bought it. After switching to the 31x10.5 tires I now have a creaking noise coming from the wheel area when I crank the steering all the way to one side or the other. The noise only occurs while the vehicle is moving and backing off on the steering makes the noise stop. I have no evidence of tire rub and the sound seems to be coming from the U-joints that connect the wheel to the axle. The right wheel creaks when the steering is cranked all the way right and the left wheel creaks when the steering is cranked all the way left. Any idea what is causing the noise? Serious problem or just an annoyance? Aside from putting washers on the stops, any idea as to solutions?

And in a different vein, most of the aftermarket bumpers & guards I've seen look like this, with the winch guard more or less vertical:



But in the pics on the forum I see many wearing one similar to what Scout has on his rig, with the winch guard pushed forward at an angle. What are the pros & cons of this type of winch guard?


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