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Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 01:03 PM
Jetjocchris
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Caster angle won't no, but 5 degrees is borderline for a 3.5-4" lift. Keep a close eye on the driveshaft (joint at TC) How about swapping the front tires side to side ?
Copy that... Yea I tied swapping the tires but still the same. May reduce the caster a bit but I hate to play with it too much because I don't have any vibrations at all...
Yesterday 12:42 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetjocchris View Post
Yes that's what I thought. I just remeasured and it seems like it's no less than 1/2 inch...at any rate my adjustable rear trac bar should be here in a few days so I will stick that on and see what happens. I really don't want to put in cross caster. I was also reading about installing a steering stabilizer like you mentioned to counteract the right pull. That seems like a better option to me.. I'm really thinking it may be the tires.. Have you heard of too much caster having any effect such as pulling to the right...? Like I said before I'm right at 5 degrees, maybe a bit too much for my particular jeep....??
Caster angle won't no, but 5 degrees is borderline for a 3.5-4" lift. Keep a close eye on the driveshaft (joint at TC)

How about swapping the front tires side to side ?
Yesterday 11:38 AM
Jetjocchris
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Thrust axle is set with control arms. The track bar will have a small affect if offset a lot. How much lift did you get in the rear ? 5/8 seems to be a lot with a bracket.
Yes that's what I thought. I just remeasured and it seems like it's no less than 1/2 inch...at any rate my adjustable rear trac bar should be here in a few days so I will stick that on and see what happens. I really don't want to put in cross caster. I was also reading about installing a steering stabilizer like you mentioned to counteract the right pull. That seems like a better option to me.. I'm really thinking it may be the tires.. Have you heard of too much caster having any effect such as pulling to the right...? Like I said before I'm right at 5 degrees, maybe a bit too much for my particular jeep....??
Yesterday 04:12 AM
kjeeper10 Thrust axle is set with control arms. The track bar will have a small affect if offset a lot.
How much lift did you get in the rear ? 5/8 seems to be a lot with a bracket.
Yesterday 04:10 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetjocchris View Post
Just found this info on another forum, maybe my solution...!! I will try it tomorrow.. "Natural tendency for a Jake to pull to the right. It's caused by the unequal length front axle shafts turning at the same time, but having different torsional resistances. On FWD cars this was solved decades ago by using shafts with the same torsional resistance, but that's hard or impossible to do inside a solid axle housing. So, Jeep staggers the caster on the JK slightly, about .2 degrees more on the right side. Teraflex and a couple other lift kit mfrs suggest a slightly longer lower right control arm setting to correct this, about 1/8 to 1/4" ought to do it. Bear in mind all this assumes everything else is set up right. Get it on an alignment rack, get the readings and compare them to the factory specs." EDIT... Just also read that solid axles may be built with an inherit cross caster design... Can anyone confirm this for our JK's..? Another idea is that I may have a thrust issue because the rear axle is slightly outside of specs as far as being centered. Although I have a trac bar relocation bracket in the rear the axle is still outside by 5/8" and I don't have my adjustable trac bar yet... Still in transit... Any input from anyone..?
I do remember seeing that. I honestly don't know what to think. I mean, i don't see a lot of JK's with a pull. Some have to do with the tires (radial pull) Toyos are good for this.
I've seen more mention of cross caster as a for road crown.
This is only my opinion so take it for what it's worth. I think a .2-.3 difference in caster side to side is more loose manufacturing tolerances. The right way to set up CA's is to adjust so there's no bind in the bushings. Trying to force too much cross caster on a straight axle seems to cause other issues.
One fix .. I've seen people (with a right pull) install a aftermarket HD steering stabilizer. Which will combat right with a left pull.
07-08-2014 09:32 PM
Jetjocchris Just found this info on another forum, maybe my solution...!! I will try it tomorrow.. "Natural tendency for a Jake to pull to the right. It's caused by the unequal length front axle shafts turning at the same time, but having different torsional resistances. On FWD cars this was solved decades ago by using shafts with the same torsional resistance, but that's hard or impossible to do inside a solid axle housing. So, Jeep staggers the caster on the JK slightly, about .2 degrees more on the right side. Teraflex and a couple other lift kit mfrs suggest a slightly longer lower right control arm setting to correct this, about 1/8 to 1/4" ought to do it. Bear in mind all this assumes everything else is set up right. Get it on an alignment rack, get the readings and compare them to the factory specs."

EDIT...
Just also read that solid axles may be built with an inherit cross caster design... Can anyone confirm this for our JK's..?
Another idea is that I may have a thrust issue because the rear axle is slightly outside of specs as far as being centered. Although I have a trac bar relocation bracket in the rear the axle is still outside by 5/8" and I don't have my adjustable trac bar yet... Still in transit...
Any input from anyone..?
07-08-2014 06:41 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rexenator View Post
I don't see adjustable rear bump stops on RKs website, just the fabricated ones. Am I missing something?

You're right.. They are angled to clear the swaybar links
07-08-2014 06:39 PM
LV Naturist
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxx143 View Post

Procal...it will light up the turn signals to let you know to which side it's off and then light both when centered and aligned with the EPS sensor.
Good explanation! and thank you. Oh and thank you now I need to tell the wife I need to spend another hundred and fifty dollars !
07-08-2014 06:34 PM
Rexenator
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
How about RK ?
I don't see adjustable rear bump stops on RKs website, just the fabricated ones. Am I missing something?
07-08-2014 06:32 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rexenator View Post
Ok, I will eventually be running 35" tires with the factory flares. I'll probably go MC adjustable fronts with TF 3" rears as suggested above (looks like MCs adjustable rears are on back order for 2-3 weeks).
How about RK ?
07-08-2014 06:11 PM
Rexenator
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxx143 View Post
What size tires?

I'm running TF 3" rears and MC 3" (adjustable) fronts with 35s and stock fenders to be on the safe side. Could probably do 2" fronts with flat fenders and 35s.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Yes it depends on tire size, if you're running flat flares and shock compressed lengths.
The Adjustable stops are nice. Start with a inch and add if needed. MC, RK have stackable stops,
Ok, I will eventually be running 35" tires with the factory flares. I'll probably go MC adjustable fronts with TF 3" rears as suggested above (looks like MCs adjustable rears are on back order for 2-3 weeks).
07-08-2014 04:33 PM
kjeeper10 You guys will need to reprogram for tire size. The Procal has many features and cost around $150

From AEV's site

• Correct speedometer
• "One touch" turn signals
• Clear engine codes
• Easy to use DIP switches
• Recalibrate tire pressure monitor
• Increase engine idle speed
• Optimize ESP performance
• Transfer Case calibration (2012+ JK Wrangler w/ A580 trans)
07-08-2014 04:08 PM
Maxx143
Quote:
Originally Posted by Em52 View Post
You got me curious, I just drove the jeep out and back in the garage in a straight line, then I turned the "buckle" on the drag link until the steering wheel was centered, or as close as I could eyeball it, lol. Haven't looked back since, not noticed any issues?!? Checked the instructions, nothing specific listed than what I did..... Curious to see what replies this will bring? Em...
Procal...it will light up the turn signals to let you know to which side it's off and then light both when centered and aligned with the EPS sensor.
07-08-2014 03:38 PM
Em52
Quote:
Originally Posted by LV Naturist View Post
I did search, but got impatient... Getting ready to install the AEV 2.5 lift. When re-centering the steering wheel (by adjusting the drag link?), what is the trick to knowing where true center is? Thanks... John
You got me curious, I just drove the jeep out and back in the garage in a straight line, then I turned the "buckle" on the drag link until the steering wheel was centered, or as close as I could eyeball it, lol. Haven't looked back since, not noticed any issues?!? Checked the instructions, nothing specific listed than what I did..... Curious to see what replies this will bring?

Em...
07-08-2014 02:27 PM
LV Naturist Thanks Flyfishnevada and Kjeeper10 for the quick reply. Basically trial and error without the ProCal. Just trying to keep costs down. After this weekends Jeep run, a damaged tire led to new tires and rims, then the need for a lift, and... You know the deal.

Bought a set of 285 75R17 Toyo Open Country A/T II XT's and Level 8 Punch wheels. I'm thinking they'll be okay for a little while without a lift, but used it as an excuse to go ahead and order the lift. This was NOT in the budget at this time though.

John
07-08-2014 02:05 PM
kjeeper10 Yes it depends on tire size, if you're running flat flares and shock compressed lengths.
The Adjustable stops are nice. Start with a inch and add if needed. MC, RK have stackable stops,
07-08-2014 01:55 PM
Maxx143
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rexenator View Post
What bump stops are required for a 2.5" lift with Rancho 29/30" shocks?
What size tires?

I'm running TF 3" rears and MC 3" (adjustable) fronts with 35s and stock fenders to be on the safe side. Could probably do 2" fronts with flat fenders and 35s.
07-08-2014 01:26 PM
Rexenator What bump stops are required for a 2.5" lift with Rancho 29/30" shocks?
07-08-2014 01:21 PM
flyfishnevada
Quote:
Originally Posted by eldomi809 View Post
I've wheeled them a few times in some rough/rocky terrain . I guess those are next on my list along with ujoint and seals.

Thanks for the help!
If you're doing the ball joints, you might as well have C-gussets welded in place, maybe even axle sleeves, while it's all apart. Pretty cheap insurance and you don't want to take that all apart again later.
07-08-2014 01:19 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by LV Naturist View Post
I did search, but got impatient... Getting ready to install the AEV 2.5 lift. When re-centering the steering wheel (by adjusting the drag link?), what is the trick to knowing where true center is? Thanks... John
If you have a AEV Procal, it will assist you. Should be in the instructions.

Free handing it. Adjust and drive. It Sometimes takes a couple attempts.
07-08-2014 01:17 PM
flyfishnevada When I installed my TF 2.5, the instructions told me to loosen the bolts and rotate it a certain way (don't remember exactly) and test it. Well, I drove it first and it was slightly to the right, I think. I adjusted per the instructions and it got worse but honestly, I was a bit punchy by then so I might have gone the wrong way. I turned it back to where it started and then past by the amount suggested in the instructions. Drove it again and it was now a bit left. Dialed it back a bit and tested, it was centered more or less.

Long story short, follow the instructions first. But essentially, drive it, adjust it, drive it again and adjust accordingly. I never turned it more than 3/4 of a turn and ended up about 1/3 to 1/2 a turn from where it was when I started. Just remember which way you turned it and which way it moved as you go. Its not as hard as it probably sounds.
07-08-2014 12:53 PM
LV Naturist
Okay, Silly Question...

I did search, but got impatient...

Getting ready to install the AEV 2.5 lift. When re-centering the steering wheel (by adjusting the drag link?), what is the trick to knowing where true center is? Thanks...

John
07-07-2014 11:03 PM
Jetjocchris
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
I've played around with toe with no real change. My jeep will follow road imperfections a little. Does get annoying but there's not too much you can do. Grippy mud tires have that trait. Lower caster will cause some handling issues. Do you know what you're at for caster ? did you have it professionally checked ? Upper arms ARE enough to set caster, but the specs listed by the manufacturer should only a used as a base line or starting point. Actual lift height, vehicle tolerances -different vehicle to vehicle. Things can change. I would have a caster sweep done on a machine. see where you're at, just to be sure.
Caster is at 5.. But have not had it professionally checked... May have it checked this week if I get a chance. Thanks for your help.. Seems good driving wise except that it tends to pull right more so now than with the stock tires, so like you said maybe just the different tire making it more noticeable..
07-07-2014 06:39 PM
eldomi809
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Ahh.... Unfortunately the stockers are garbage and don't last long with bigger tires. 5-10k is light unless you wheel. Check them out.. Lift the tire a few inches of the ground and pry up on it.
I've wheeled them a few times in some rough/rocky terrain . I guess those are next on my list along with ujoint and seals.

Thanks for the help!
07-07-2014 05:26 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by eldomi809 View Post
These are factory Bj's done under the initially 30 day warranty from the selling dealer.
Ahh.... Unfortunately the stockers are garbage and don't last long with bigger tires. 5-10k is light unless you wheel. Check them out.. Lift the tire a few inches of the ground and pry up on it.
07-07-2014 05:21 PM
eldomi809
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Ball joints will show bad camber. What brand did you have installed ?
These are factory Bj's done under the initially 30 day warranty from the selling dealer.
07-07-2014 05:19 PM
kjeeper10 Ball joints will show bad camber. What brand did you have installed ?
07-07-2014 05:17 PM
eldomi809
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
If you search my profile. Look through my Rancho bracket thread. Somebody posted a link for $120. Most use lowers for caster correction, but uppers are cheaper and can be used as well. CA brackets move both arms down flat, increase caster and better handling. I vote for brackets and track bar. Down the road, either keep the brackets or sell for 75% of the cost. Your caster is def low. How many miles on the jeep ?
About 82k (ball joints have about 10k -6 on 32s km and 4 on 35s mtrs) Should i be worried about my front left camber? Thanks for the link!

Edit: by the way just did a quick google search by the part number and amazon has the brackets for $114 shipped with Prime membership

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E3S...&robot_redir=1
07-07-2014 05:08 PM
kjeeper10 Here you go
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/ranc...FYdQ7AodVB8AJQ
07-07-2014 05:04 PM
kjeeper10 If you search my profile. Look through my Rancho bracket thread. Somebody posted a link for $120.
Most use lowers for caster correction, but uppers are cheaper and can be used as well. CA brackets move both arms down flat, increase caster and better handling.

I vote for brackets and track bar. Down the road, either keep the brackets or sell for 75% of the cost.

Your caster is def low. How many miles on the jeep ?
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