|12-14-2014 05:49 PM|
|projecttj97||how much would you charge for the adapters i'm looking into to this swap for my 97 tj with ax-15. And you adapter plates look better then some of the others i have seen.|
|12-05-2014 03:47 PM|
|1979WagoneerLTD||The Jeep is running the Beltway daily. Owner loves it.|
|12-02-2014 05:58 PM|
|Steve97TJ||Bump this anything new?|
|01-04-2014 08:23 PM|
Point is it's getting more a "known" and not a "what if". And with that, the price will become more reasonable, not to mention it'll be within the reach of drivers within emissions testing areas.
The 2.0 CRD VAG cars outnumber the legacy mechanical boat anchors and ALH/BEW/BRM cars now, with sales increasing each year. The Bosch CRD system is a benchmark used by DMAX, Iveco, Motori, Valmet Matra, VAG, Benz, Cummins, on and on. Proven. It makes sense to go with that engine.
|01-03-2014 01:20 PM|
|rawlmark||Thank you for your continued investment in time keeping up updated on your progress. We love our VW's, and our TJ, and if time and money were no object would venture down this conversion path. Alas, it's not in the foreseeable future, but your work and write ups are greatly appreciated.|
|01-03-2014 11:09 AM|
As far as coking, it's a fact of life with the full-authority cooled EGR era diesels. Live under the hood of 6.0 Navistar-equipped Fords during the mid 2000's and your perspective on "issues" gets redefined.
Camshaft wear is relative, and according to VAG, related to the end-user not taking care to use the specified lube oil. Never have personally had to replace a BEW/BRM camshaft for lobe wear.
Oily charge air coolers, tubes, and connections are a fact of life; I service mine with tube removal, inspection, and cleaning if necessary at PMI time. On hard working units, this is more critical, as the cascade of problems related to hard service combined with abuse will bite eventually.
Sticky VGT's, again, I call out to hard use and lack of owner awareness/maintenance. The ONLY crapped VGT's I've ever replaced were the ones that fell victim to an abusive owner.
VW OWNS the lightweight Tier-compliant market in north America; this will likely remain for the foreseeable future. Therefore this is what I have to work with outside of using a mechanical boat anchor.
|12-29-2013 11:53 AM|
They are lighter than a tdi, with significantly less wiring and problems. The tdi has loads of problems with the egr valve, n249 valves fail often,sludge issues especially in the intercooler, mafs, the vnt turbos like to have sticky veins after a while (you shouldnt have that problem for a while though), the vnt turbos typically cannot be rebuilt once one thing goes the whole thing grenades (I have a few here I can show you), they are known to throw codes and put you into limp mode, injectors need to be rebuilt which is pretty expensive, the cam shafts like to wear early, etc. I have been working on Volkswagens and diesels for a significant amount of time, no need to be an ass I was just trying to commend something for next time.
A nice upgrade to the small and restrictive side mount intercoolers are the smics from a 1.8t and the pancake pipe. They are direct bolt ones and flow much better.
You can replace the entire pancake pipe with a mandrel bent one that flows twice as much air and tryolsport smic which is all aluminum, thicker, and much more efficient.
|12-23-2013 01:11 PM|
|12-19-2013 07:25 PM|
|PrecisionPowder||If you ever want to do a diesel swap again in a jeep I recommend using a 1.9AAZ IDI TD motor. Its a mechanical diesel so you have no need to worry about the wiring. You can use the same trans adapter plate since both the newer tdi motors and the older idi motors all use the O2O transmission configuration. They are significantly cheaper, easier to tune, easier to make power on, a million times more reliable, and the swap time is a ton faster. I have built several big turbo volkswagen diesels, its nice to see them being used in wranglers once in a while|
|11-26-2013 09:24 PM|
|1979WagoneerLTD||In the midst of our first winter weather, I verified that an 8 second preheat time @ 30f. The heater began to warm within 4 minutes of run time, fully hot within 10 (idle).|
|11-26-2013 10:18 AM|
|herminshs||This is very informative, thanks|
|11-24-2013 09:33 PM|
There are a few more details to work out, but it's a success. A few notes:
The VNT 17 turbo is worth the few extra bucks if you have to replace your turbo, but not enough to warrant an upgrade from stock.
The air/air intercooler works ok
Air/air fuel cooler drops fuel temp by 30f
Stock VW fuel filter and fuel temp control valve works to recirculate warmed fuel to the engine, and keep the fuel cool.
If you have any doubt about a used engine, don't do this conversion unless you're prepared to disassemble/inspect/rebuild. This rule applies to any unknown engine really
Trust your gut instinct before you drop the cash; do it because you want this conversion, not because you want more economy. If you're already familiar with late-model VW, international, cummins, Benz, Isuzu, etc., then you know what I mean. You buy it because you want it
|11-24-2013 09:02 PM|
|Wondertwin1||I would definitely have no problem dropping cash and my wrangler off to you. I want this so bad|
|11-24-2013 05:14 PM|
|Alects||Those TDI's last forever! Seems like a fun project... Time to save up!|
|11-12-2013 11:34 AM|
Noble cause, I really like that. Why not make a small business out of it, I've no doubt there are a few dozen of us that'd deliver our vehicles and a check for you to use in helping vets recover. You could certainly sell the ones you're creating too...use the money to fund more projects?
Anyway, kick ass project with an even more kick ass purpose. My hat's off to you!
|11-12-2013 06:53 AM|
|11-11-2013 07:06 PM|
|FingerTight||Sub'd, can't wait to see you offer turnkey conversions|
|11-11-2013 07:45 AM|
|11-11-2013 07:44 AM|
|1979WagoneerLTD||Both TDI Wranglers running on a 40o morning.|
|11-04-2013 09:18 PM|
It is rumored the two major players in the conversion aftermarket (one having a deep Mopar connection) will soon have a JK system using the 3.0 VM diesel as found in the Grand Cherokee and RAM 1500.
|11-04-2013 09:09 PM|
|FXnut||I'd love to see a 5.0L V10 Touareg TDI dropped into a JKUR for your next conversion!|
|10-30-2013 04:39 PM|
First drive impression:
VNT-17 turbo pulls hard at 1500 plus rpm. I will look at a mod for the air box/MAF.
|10-30-2013 04:37 PM|
A9 Light Class 1 Diesel Cert
Above link to ASE for test registration. A new A9 Light Diesel cert is now offered. It is meant to cover modern electronically controlled full-authority diesels like the TDI.
|10-30-2013 06:10 AM|
|10-30-2013 06:08 AM|
Forgot to mention this very important component:
Suggest that the donor car engine build date be the same or newer model year manufacture than the recipient Jeep. For example, a 2003 model ALH would be ok for a 97-03 Wrangler.
This is a link to my first TDI Wrangler on an early drive. http://youtu.be/USjrfSZCW0A
|10-29-2013 03:35 PM|
|10-29-2013 02:08 PM|
|Michigan37||Attention to detail in this thread is impressive. Will you post a video?|
|10-29-2013 10:05 AM|
Couple posters have asked about my (or somebody else) being able to do more of these conversions.
It's much easier this time around. I mean, there WAS NO DOUBT what had to be wired how in order for it to work. The challenge this time was packaging it up in such a way as to not look like a mess. It was important for it to be serviceable, as well as easier to gain access. Documentation is important, and this forum is one way I've done it.
1. Start with a complete running TJ that is not junk. Stick with a six-cylinder, or be prepared to buy any one of the respective transmission/transfercases/bellhousings of a 4.0 wrangler should you have a 4-banger.
2. Buy a COMPLETE SALVAGE DONOR VW TDI. My conversions have dealt with using a 2004-2005 BEW or 2005.5-2007 BRM. Similar rules apply if you want to use an earlier MKIV with the ALH engine. When you buy the whole car, keep it until you are done; there's a ton of valuable wiring and peripherals that will save you $$$$ and headaches. If you don't want to deal with commercial breakers, cruise insurance auctions for a total loss. Of course, make sure it's not a total loss for you, keeping in mind that frontal collisions can destroy the cooling system, hole the oil pan, but leave the rest of the powertrain workable. BOLO Sandy and Katrina flood loss cars - avoid water damage units.
3. Buy the Bentley workshop manuals and a scrip to Mitchell Pro-Demand.
4. Have competent hot work skills or a friend that does.
5. Have a place to work indoors; be prepared to scatter a two-car garage for 3-5 months.
6. Use Delphi WEATHERPACK connectors. Kits are affordable, the crimping tool is not however. But you'll never go back to crappy connectors ever again.
7. Be at least a production-grade mechanic that has a thorough understanding of Ohms Law, automobile electricity and electronic controls; CAN backbones, communications, diagnostics, and repair. OWN a J2534 Pass-Thru and a good laptop. Understand VW diagnostic routines, methods, and wiring breakouts (Current-TRAC). If you have A8 and/or T8 with L1, your ok.
8. Understand the differences, mainly from a network/engine management perspective, of the 97-06 TJ. This includes all three gas engines used throughout the production run. None of these vehicles used CAN, although the earlier runs used Chrysler Collision Detection, which was an early twisted-pair network originally developed for the 1988 Grand Caravan 4-speed "Ultradrive" automatic.
9. Eat, Pray, Repeat.
|10-29-2013 09:19 AM|
|10-29-2013 09:18 AM|
The 94 pin harness has 6 connectors that pass-through a weatherproof fixture in the firewall of the donor car. Unplug here and you'll get what you need. The colors breakout to:
Brown: various powered circuits, main PCM power
Blue: drive by wire throttle
Black: BOO, cruise
Orange: ISO 9141 k line
White: Controller Area Network bus
Grey: powered circuits, paralleled
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