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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-27-2009 06:39 PM
Schmo
Quote:
Originally Posted by catITguy View Post
Okay so for sake of totaling up a rough price tag. If I went with the Currie 4" kit ($1900), I would also need shocks (another $400? for decent/good ones), and a SYE and CV drive shaft were also recommended. Can someone explain the last two (SYE and CV drive shaft), what they do and why they are needed? Recommend any certain ones?

Finally is there anything else I would regret not including?


Looks like Currie offers two 4" kits... the second is a bit cheaper at $1780 and comes with JKS sway bar discos vs. the Currie AntiRock . . . I'd go with the AntiRock myself at this point as I don't do much driving other than around town and to the trail . . . the AntiRock does compromise a bit of on-road manners for off-road benefits . . . so decide what's best for you. If you're spending this type of coin and doing it right then you will want to install the Slip Yoke Eliminator, CV (double cardan) Drive Shaft, and a CV style Track Bar bracket and you may need an adjustable rear trackbar too to center the rear end depending on where it ends up. I'm the wrong guy to tell you about the SYE as my Rubi doesn't need one . . . I think my Tom Woods CV DS set me back about 300 bucks . . . you can probably get a deal on a DS/SYE Combo for about 500 ...the double cardan joint allows for greater angles without causing vibes and will require you to adjust the pinion angle to run parallel with the DS (which is why you'll need those rear adjustable Upper control Arms). You'll probably also want to get 15x8s with 3.75 backspacing to run the 33x12.5s.

Kit = $1800-$1900
Tires and Wheels = $1500
Shocks = $300 (you can find Bilstine's for $75 each all day and possibly less)
SYE & CV DS = $500
CV style TB bracket = $70
Adjustable Rear Track Bar = $165

With this set up you'll be able to either add a BL and clear 35s or you can go with tube fenders and fit them without the BL like I'm thinking about as a BL + 35s probably won't fit in the garage! This is a short arm kit (probably argueably the best) but it's not going to be a long arm so make sure you make that decision before spending the coin.
10-27-2009 04:30 PM
nicolas-eric Why donīt you just add 1" spacers?

I had 2.5 OME springs with 2" spacers on top and the ride was ok with stock controll arms and track bars. Now with the adj. CAs and TBs itīs a bit better, but before it was ok.
10-27-2009 04:26 PM
catITguy Okay so for sake of totaling up a rough price tag. If I went with the Currie 4" kit ($1900), I would also need shocks (another $400? for decent/good ones), and a SYE and CV drive shaft were also recommended. Can someone explain the last two (SYE and CV drive shaft), what they do and why they are needed? Recommend any certain ones?

Finally is there anything else I would regret not including?
10-27-2009 03:47 PM
HamiltonLJ I have to agree with Schmo! I have the RC kit and I can't really complain about it! It works well and the price was awesome but I will be upgrading to a longarm kit in the future! If you have the money to shell out go for the currie!
10-27-2009 01:02 PM
Schmo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Dirt View Post
There is a BIG differance between 4" and 2" lift. The 2" just needs longer shocks. A 4" NEEDS adjustible control arms and adjustible trackbars to keep streering geometry right and keep it from wandering all over the road. I'd also recommend a SYE and CV shaft to keep vibes down. Economy kits are just brackets, springs and shocks. You get what you pay for. If you cut corners it will drive like crap and you'll end up spending more money to buy the missing parts later. Get a 3 1/2" -4" complete kit with all the parts.
x2 . . . do it right up front or you'll end up spending a lot more adding on and replacing the crap that came with the cheapo kit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by catITguy View Post
Well I did some reading on Skyjacker lifts.....yikes didnt see many good reviews. Would I be better off to go with say RE or anyone have experience with the Rugged Ridge 4"?
Depends on the type of wheeling you plan to do. Skyjacker, Rugged Ridge, and the likes are pretty much crap across the board. RE is very popular and seems to work well for mild wheeling, but those that like to wheel a lot (in the rocks especially), usually find themselves replacing bushings in the control arms more often than they'd like to. If you really want to do it right, consider either piecing a kit together with quality parts from a few different companies or take a look at a company like Currie that is known for quality and manufacturing parts for off-road use . . . not for mall crawlers that want to look cool with bigger tires.

P.S. - Steer clear of Full Traction . . . they take the cake for crappy parts and service in my experience.
10-27-2009 12:17 PM
catITguy Well I did some reading on Skyjacker lifts.....yikes didnt see many good reviews. Would I be better off to go with say RE or anyone have experience with the Rugged Ridge 4"?
10-27-2009 12:39 AM
csamn2007 I would go with flex kit. You only want to do it once.
10-26-2009 11:22 PM
Joe Dirt There is a BIG differance between 4" and 2" lift. The 2" just needs longer shocks. A 4" NEEDS adjustible control arms and adjustible trackbars to keep streering geometry right and keep it from wandering all over the road. I'd also recommend a SYE and CV shaft to keep vibes down. Economy kits are just brackets, springs and shocks. You get what you pay for. If you cut corners it will drive like crap and you'll end up spending more money to buy the missing parts later. Get a 3 1/2" -4" complete kit with all the parts.
10-26-2009 08:17 PM
hapakid88 hey catITguy, well im not the most experienced person in the world but i was recently faced with the same dilemma. you say occasional offroad use which makes me think that you probably dont need a top of the line lift kit. i personally just went with the economy 4" lift (from skyjacker) and...it works pretty well for its price. it lifted my jeep nicely (which is the main reason i bought it) , it has definite improvement over the stock shocks springs and control arms. a lil stiffer ride than i would like but quite manageable. hope this was somewhat helpful.

cheers,
Greg
10-26-2009 08:00 PM
catITguy
Thinking about a bigger lift, some questions...

Evening all, I have the itch for a bigger lift, so a few questions on that note. Im not looking to go huge, but would like to be able to run 33x12.5 tires and still have a good amount of flex.

First, I bought my jeep already lifted, so Im not 100% sure what size lift I have on it now. I believe (actually based on what a bunch of ya'll said) that I have a 2" suspension lift with an additional 1" budget boost (puck lift) in the front. Just to be sure though I went out and measured the height. In the front right behind the bumper from the bottom of the frame to the ground I measured 23.5". In the rear, back of the frame, just before the bumper I measured 20". Does this sound consistent with what we think I have for my current lift? I ask because I would hate to spend money on a lift and get a negligible gain.

So question number two Im thinking I want a 4" lift kit. Im looking at different lift kits, Skyjacker seems to be a popular choice how is their reputation? Anyone with firsthand experience?

In looking at Skyjacker lifts, they range from about $500 (4" economy lift)to about $1750 (4" Single Flex Kit). I want to do this right, and am not opposed to forking out money now to avoid problems down the road. What do I gain with the more expensive lift? Worth it for occasional offroad use?

Finally, anything else that I need to do this right that is not included in either of the previously mentioned kits?

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