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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-08-2010 03:12 PM
nmdriver Just wanted to let you guys know that I came up with a solution that worked for me. The foam padding around the shaft had to go. That helped but I needed more clearance. I found that if I removed the boot bracket the shifter cleared alot better.

I took some small screws and drilled them in the top and stretched the lip of the boot.







It still gives me a lil trouble in the cold but when it warms up it shifts pretty good.
11-23-2009 01:24 PM
curleystj
Quote:
Originally Posted by nukinfutts View Post
3in bl and 4in susp.
i had the same setup with a tc drop with 33's. i had to take out my BL due to lift laws here in jersey (they suck). not to bad comming out ended up replacing my gas filler neck tubes and had to cut out shifter extension and re weld it back to stock. so for those paying attention your bodylift should have come with a shifter extension that needed to be welded in below the bend in the shifter cheeper ones just give you one that screws onto the shifter at the knob or they dont give you one at all the shop i worked in just used 1/2 round stock like 3in long for the kits that didnt come with them. and as far as i remember you should need to notch the body only like 1/2 inch for reverse and for first so it dosen jump out (common BL problem) .

for those who are looking at a 1in Bl and need new body mounts anyway check out the prothane kit the 1in BL is built into the mount so its 1 nice solid peice.
1 Polyurethane Body Lift by Prothane and Other Jeep Parts and Jeep Accessories by 4 Wheel Drive Hardware

best i can say though is save the cash buy a good 4in sus lift and make your jeep go as good as it looks. your fellow jeepers will thank you
11-23-2009 12:14 PM
nmdriver I haven't done anything yet. The more I think about it the more I want to pull the shifter out, heat it up and bend her....
11-21-2009 10:37 PM
nukinfutts 3in bl and 4in susp.
11-21-2009 10:31 PM
nukinfutts when i put my 3in bodylift on i just made a new shifter so it would not contact the console. i also had to trim the floor under the console because it was hitting there and would jump out of gear too.
11-20-2009 07:53 PM
Schmo
Quote:
Originally Posted by s3nt3nc3d View Post
I don't know if I'd be bragging about that...there's a reason

fat girls can't jump.
LOL . . . nicely done!!!
11-20-2009 05:44 PM
s3nt3nc3d
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdub2k5 View Post
ya but you know you want to keep the big lift... I had a chick list night that I had to lift into my car lol
I don't know if I'd be bragging about that...there's a reason fat girls can't jump.
11-20-2009 08:45 AM
jeeeeeper I've been VERY busy and haven't had time to fix this issue. I bought this jeep with the lift on it. I think it's a 3.25" with a 1" BL. The shifter hits in reverse also. The plastic frame can be knotched but the metal frame in the boot also gets in the way. It seems like we're going on about a simple fix. I'm gonna slap it in the vise, put some heat to it and bend it. I have close to half an inch room on top .
11-01-2009 11:55 AM
Schmo
Quote:
Originally Posted by nmdriver View Post
I am kind of at a loss. Part of me wants to ditch the BL and just throw a good susp lift on but it seems like from robinhoods answer I may not be chasing the solution.
I guess you need to define "a good susp lift" and consider your budget. If you want to ditch the BL all together then you'll be looking at a 4" lift to clear the 33s . . . IMO a good 4" set up includes a completely new suspension (springs, shocks, 8 adjustable control arms, f/r adjustable trackbars, bumpstops, etc) along with a CV Driveshaft and SYE (nonRubi) with this set up you would not be using a TC drop kit and Robinhood's issue would not apply. Or you could go with a 1" BL along with a 2" BB and also clear the 33's and still would most likely have no vibes and would not need to drop the TC. I don't see the point in lifting the Jeep just to turn around and drop the belly . . . totally counter productive for my application anyway. With the first option, you can fit 35's by adding a 1" BL (still no TC drop needed).


Quote:
Originally Posted by jdub2k5 View Post
ya but you know you want to keep the big lift... I had a chick list night that I had to lift into my car lol
Spoken like a guy that has a chrome nutsack hanging from the rear bumper
11-01-2009 11:29 AM
jdub2k5 ya but you know you want to keep the big lift... I had a chick list night that I had to lift into my car lol
11-01-2009 10:45 AM
nmdriver
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
That would work well for 35" tires, nothing smaller than that. Keep in mind a Dana 35c in the rear isn't really strong enough for 35" tires and you'll want to regear both axles to a lower ratio for the bigger tires.
Yea, that is a good point with the axle. I do have 4.56 gears so i think I would be good with the 35" tire.

I am kind of at a loss. Part of me wants to ditch the BL and just throw a good susp lift on but it seems like from robinhoods answer I may not be chasing the solution.

I ust don't know!
11-01-2009 09:28 AM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by nmdriver View Post
Also someday I think it would be cool to put on 35's. I wonder if a 1" BL and a 4" susp lift would work good ...
That would work well for 35" tires, nothing smaller than that. Keep in mind a Dana 35c in the rear isn't really strong enough for 35" tires and you'll want to regear both axles to a lower ratio for the bigger tires.
11-01-2009 04:49 AM
RobinHood i don't have a body lift, but after installing my 2.5 inch OME suspension lift incl. tc drop i had the same problem: the reverse gear of my 6-speed (2006) just wouldn't go in all the way without pushing it back with brutal force. the noise of the not-quite-engaged gear was awful when accidentally hitting the gas too early. ouch.

removing the boot and the plastic shifter bezel solved the gear-problem, but having no boot was really no option for me. so all i did is trim the plastic shifter bezel by something like 0.5 inches and it works absolutely fine since. there's unnecessary plastic on the lower (or front) part of that bezel. just cut it out nicely and you're done, it all looks nice and clean like factory. i'll post a picture when i get a chance.
10-31-2009 11:44 PM
nmdriver Well, removed the styrafoam on the shifter and it helped but still not right.

Schmo, honestly that is a good thought. I don't really like BL's.

How hard would it be to remove the bl?

Think it would be best to put a 1" BL (Since I need to put some mounts on anyway when I take off the 3")?

Also someday I think it would be cool to put on 35's. I wonder if a 1" BL and a 4" susp lift would work good or if I could squeak by with a 1" BL and a 2.5/3" susp lift...
10-31-2009 10:11 PM
Exl2392 I also bought a tj with a 3" BL . Same problems , broughtto shop and they bent the shifter down, the console was already moved back an inch, and custom interior boot had to be made due to hot heat coming through floorboard. The shop bent shifter and extended it and it made a huge difference. Also, when I take off the shifter boot it shifts a whole lot easier, it's the thickness of the boot where it "snaps" in that gets in my way.. Still trying to figure out an aftermarket boot without the "thickness"
10-31-2009 06:14 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmo View Post
Seems like a lot of tinkering to get something to work that shouldn't really be on your TJ in the first place. Why not just ditch the 3" BL and go with a 1" BL and a 2" Spacer Lift . . . would probably take you about the same amount of time, won't set you back but a couple Benjamins . . . your Jeep will perform better, look a hell of a lot better, and will be safer too. And the icing on the cake . . . you won't have guys pointing and snickering when they see that god-aweful 3" BL.


Sorry somebody had to say it
X2. If I bought a TJ that had a 3" body lift, it'd be gone by the end of the first weekend.
10-31-2009 06:06 PM
oldman u need a small shaft piece to lift the shifter up a few inches. i have a 3 inch body lift and i had a small shaft that went on the shaft. it was welded
10-31-2009 11:47 AM
Schmo Seems like a lot of tinkering to get something to work that shouldn't really be on your TJ in the first place. Why not just ditch the 3" BL and go with a 1" BL and a 2" Spacer Lift . . . would probably take you about the same amount of time, won't set you back but a couple Benjamins . . . your Jeep will perform better, look a hell of a lot better, and will be safer too. And the icing on the cake . . . you won't have guys pointing and snickering when they see that god-aweful 3" BL.


Sorry somebody had to say it
10-31-2009 11:20 AM
boomer27127 I havnet seen this in person so I dont know how bad it is but couldnt you just take the shifter off put it in a vise and us a big cheater bar to kinda take some of the bend out of it so it wouldnt hit in the lower gears and still clear in the upper gears? I put a 1" bl on my jeep and it had a tc drop at the same time and it hit. so I just bent it to get everyting to clear but after I got rid of the tc drop I had to bend the shifter back to how it was before.
10-29-2009 07:48 PM
palehawaiian I had a freind who solved his by notching the shifter were it hits that way retaining the factory console and boot
10-29-2009 07:19 PM
Oldfart There are a couple ways to fix this. I read that one way is to knotch the console and the other is to remove the shifter and bend it up a bit. Not too much. You don't want to hit the dash in 1st and 3rd. Just a little bend will make it work nice.
10-29-2009 06:51 PM
brokejeep i put a 3'' body lift on my 06 6 speed & my kit came with the shifter relocater for a 5 speed & 6 speed. there is a difference in the shape of the stem that comes off the transmission between the 5 speed & 6 speed
10-29-2009 08:23 AM
nmdriver Thanks Jeeeeper, let me know what you decide.

The shifter does work for me without the boot and with the foam so my first step this weekend is to remove the foam and wrap down the boot and see how that works.

If that doesn't work I think I will cut the console. I'll wait until I hear back from you though
10-29-2009 08:03 AM
jeeeeeper Have an 05 Rubicon same problem. My first step (this weekend) will be putting the shifter in all gears and mesure the clearance at the front and the back. If I have room to move my console I am. Even if it's only half an inch. I think Rough country has a spacer for the bottom of the shifter (part#3700) if I remember correctly. But I rather save the money for other things. I will post a good thread with pics when I'm done.
10-28-2009 09:46 PM
jdub2k5 I guess what distorted tj said will work, thats a lot of work I would just trim it and get a rugged shift boot with some rivets

thanks distorted for the information, if I get time this winter I will try to tinker with it
10-28-2009 09:44 PM
distortedtj Also "some" can get away with just removing the foam on the shifter rod.

There are also other alternatives. Remove the foam and use an aftermarket boot as mentioned by "jdub2k5". May or may=not have to trim the consul.
10-28-2009 09:41 PM
distortedtj
Quote:
Originally Posted by nmdriver View Post
distorted, how did you move the console back? Did you make tabs that offset everything by like an inch? Is it more of a hassle then just cutting or vice versa?
Done it a few ways. Depending on what the owner wanted.

Moved the factory brackets back on the tub.
Drill new mounts.
Made 1'4 extensions for the factory mounts.

Easy??? Well It does take some time. But anything can be done.

Easiest ...Remove the foam and trim the counsul.
10-28-2009 09:37 PM
nmdriver distorted, how did you move the console back? Did you make tabs that offset everything by like an inch? Is it more of a hassle then just cutting or vice versa?
10-28-2009 09:36 PM
distortedtj
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdub2k5 View Post
if the console is moved back the front will rub, if moved forward the back will rub
Are you sure? Never had an issue with the ones I've moved back for people.
10-28-2009 09:33 PM
jdub2k5
Quote:
Originally Posted by distortedtj View Post
You can keep the boot on. Several ways to address the issue.

The consul can be moved back and repositioned.
if the console is moved back the front will rub, if moved forward the back will rub
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