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Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 10:17 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by jknh View Post
Thanks KJeeper What would you recommend for DD w/ some off road, 31/32's? and what size/model bump stops for front and back.
29/30 with maybe 2" bump stop front and rear.
Most folks run the TF front and rear stops but they are I believe 2.75 and 2.5. You can run them but you'll loose some up travel.
Yesterday 10:10 PM
jknh
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Generally you go by lift height, how much bump stop and the shocks compressed lengths. The manufacturers listed spec means little. The 29/30's are common for 2.5 and are around a 9-10" travel shock. on a 2 door that nets say 3.5. The 31/32's are the better choice if you want/need the longer travel.
The 31/32's are around 11" in travel and about 2" longer at their compresses length. They can be run at 2.5 with 2-3" bumpstop.
Thanks KJeeper
What would you recommend for DD w/ some off road, 31/32's? and what size/model bump stops for front and back.
Yesterday 09:44 PM
jknh
Quote:
Originally Posted by HunterTheBeagle View Post
Typically, the word on the forum is 29 & 30's (end numbers) for 2.5" but can we get a little more info here please? If its going on a 2 door your gonna need even longer because RK coils are not 2/4 door specific therefore 2 doors get more lift.
Thanks Hunter, It's a 4 dr. with 33" tires and 17" rims. I would like to get some lift. I have flat flares and I am also thinking about some wheel spacers.
Yesterday 09:11 PM
Okwute IMHO, the best advise that I can give a fellow inexperienced newbie as a newbie myself who just recently completed the following mods on my 2015 JKUS (AEV F/R Bumpers, AEV 2.5 Lift with Geo Brackets, JKS adj. track bars, steering stabiizer, bolt upgrade, Performance Stability steering attenuator, AEV Savegre wheels with Duratrac 35's just to cover only the suspension and functional mods alone) for which I relied on the expertise and wrenching knowledge of a local Jeep specialty shop is this:

if you think you want to lift your rig and if you really can swing it, before you invest in wheels/tires or any other mod, scratch up the necessary coin and have a real Jeep specialty shop perform your lift installation once you decide on a kit unless you are very skilled in suspension work.

I know most folks are pretty handy and can do their own wrenching but I am sure it is worth it to have skilled techs dial all these items in for the system to work as whole for safety reasons and the ride quality. I would forgo tires even and bumpers and roll all those funds into having skilled techs perform the suspension surgery.

If you can do it yourself, by all mean.. do it yourself. Just know that if you screw it up, it could lead to catastrophic failure or eventual death wobble or poor ride quality.

My system as it is set up right now on the AEV 2.5 lift kit, with all the mods dialed in all at once by my tech, drives better than my Lexus LX 470 sitting in my garage right now. Honest. 2 days after driving my rig extensively, I called the shop and asked them to offer my sincere personal thanks to the tech for the care and quality of the install as well as the unbelievable ride.

Simply amazing. Somehow they found the sweet spot and drove the stake right thru it!

Just my .02 cents FWIW
Yesterday 05:46 PM
bowtie2sierra
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Save up for both imo. The longer set of RK rear lowers and only set of uppers.
A 4 door doesn't really need pinion angle correction unless running a aftermarket DS.
With both sets the axle is moved back, adding wheelbase and tire Clearance, plus pinion angle.
Makes sense. I'll grab both the rear uppers and lowers.
Yesterday 04:58 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtie2sierra View Post
Yeah I am planning on running adjustable LCA only and no brackets. Since I have a 4 door, I don't anticipate any issues. I just wanted to make sure I understood the purpose of the different lift parts. I'm planning to grab another set of arms before the end of the year to take advantage of the RK sale. Would your go with rear uppers or lowers next? All I have so far (not installed yet) are LCAs.
Save up for both imo. The longer set of RK rear lowers and only set of uppers.
A 4 door doesn't really need pinion angle correction unless running a aftermarket DS.
With both sets the axle is moved back, adding wheelbase and tire Clearance, plus pinion angle.
Yesterday 04:37 PM
bowtie2sierra Yeah I am planning on running adjustable LCA only and no brackets. Since I have a 4 door, I don't anticipate any issues. I just wanted to make sure I understood the purpose of the different lift parts.

I'm planning to grab another set of arms before the end of the year to take advantage of the RK sale. Would your go with rear uppers or lowers next? All I have so far (not installed yet) are LCAs.
Yesterday 04:30 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtie2sierra View Post
Thanks man. Appreciate the clarification. I finally have a good handle on how the front suspension components play together.
It's not common because of the loss of ground clearance but I know a few guys that run both brackets and arms. Matter fact I have adjustable uppers with my Rancho brackets.
Yesterday 04:25 PM
bowtie2sierra
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Yes. Just ensure the arms adjust stock or the same upper/lower. Brackets are designed for stock arms, the upper frame hole back for more caster.
Thanks man. Appreciate the clarification. I finally have a good handle on how the front suspension components play together.
Yesterday 04:19 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtie2sierra View Post
Ok got it. Given that drop brackets put the mounting point at the frame more horizontal to the axle mount, a jeep with either arm design (even though they are adjustable) would see a handling benefit with the drop brackets vs. a jeep with the same arms and no brackets...is that correct?
Yes. Just ensure the arms adjust stock or the same upper/lower. Brackets are designed for stock arms, the upper frame hole back for more caster.
Yesterday 04:09 PM
bowtie2sierra
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Good question. horizontal meaning the frame mount more in line with the axle mount. No difference since the mounting points are the same.
RK arms are bent upward for more obstacle clearance. stock/mc inward for tire clearance.
Ok got it.

Given that drop brackets put the mounting point at the frame more horizontal to the axle mount, a jeep with either arm design (even though they are adjustable) would see a handling benefit with the drop brackets vs. a jeep with the same arms and no brackets...is that correct?
Yesterday 03:35 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtie2sierra View Post
LCA question... I have RK front LCAs sitting in the garage to install along with RK 2.5" TR springs. The RK arms curve upward to allow for more clearance but most arms curve inward such as stock or MC arms. The pic below compares a RK arm vs. MC arm. The arms that curve inward (vs. upward) appear to give a more flat angle which is what we are after for optimal handling, right? With that assumption, am I potentially sacrificing some handling in return for the additional clearance by running RK arms?
Good question. horizontal meaning the frame mount more in line with the axle mount. No difference since the mounting points are the same.
RK arms are bent upward for more obstacle clearance. stock/mc inward for tire clearance.
Yesterday 03:31 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKSurf View Post
Is it necessary to loosen up all the LCA and UCA bolts when installing the TF 1.5" coil spacer leveling kit? That's 16 bolts right there that need to be loosened/re-torqued. I only have half of a garage to wrench in, it's my only solid surface to put jack stands on, the ass end will be hanging out on a crappy dirt driveway on a bit of a slope so the Jeep won't be level when on the ground. I'd have to do one end at a time, back out and turn the Jeep around to do the other end. Is it ok to leave those bolts loose while I turn the Jeep around? Obviously the lower bolt on the track bar needs to be back in to turn around. Once the front and back spacers are in, I'd torque them all to spec when I'm back down my driveway a bit on a more level surface. From what I understand you want to tighten up all the LCA and UCA bolts as the last step as well as the track bar with the Jeep on the ground and level to prevent any binding of the bushings. I know it's not the ideal way to do this, just want to make sure I'm on the right track and don't damage anything. One more, if I were to add just one 1" spacer up front what about the sway bar links, stick with the stock ones or the ones in the kit?
I would at least do the front since alignment is involved. Front uppers are only 75 ft lbs. all easy to get to.
Yesterday 03:26 PM
bowtie2sierra LCA question...

I have RK front LCAs sitting in the garage to install along with RK 2.5" TR springs. The RK arms curve upward to allow for more clearance but most arms curve inward such as stock or MC arms. The pic below compares a RK arm vs. MC arm. The arms that curve inward (vs. upward) appear to give a more flat angle which is what we are after for optimal handling, right? With that assumption, am I potentially sacrificing some handling in return for the additional clearance by running RK arms?
Yesterday 03:05 PM
JKSurf
More newb TF 1.5" leveling kit ?'s

Is it necessary to loosen up all the LCA and UCA bolts when installing the TF 1.5" coil spacer leveling kit? That's 16 bolts right there that need to be loosened/re-torqued. I only have half of a garage to wrench in, it's my only solid surface to put jack stands on, the ass end will be hanging out on a crappy dirt driveway on a bit of a slope so the Jeep won't be level when on the ground. I'd have to do one end at a time, back out and turn the Jeep around to do the other end.

Is it ok to leave those bolts loose while I turn the Jeep around? Obviously the lower bolt on the track bar needs to be back in to turn around. Once the front and back spacers are in, I'd torque them all to spec when I'm back down my driveway a bit on a more level surface.

From what I understand you want to tighten up all the LCA and UCA bolts as the last step as well as the track bar with the Jeep on the ground and level to prevent any binding of the bushings. I know it's not the ideal way to do this, just want to make sure I'm on the right track and don't damage anything.

One more, if I were to add just one 1" spacer up front what about the sway bar links, stick with the stock ones or the ones in the kit?
Yesterday 01:22 PM
wrath0r
Quote:
Originally Posted by c.shannon View Post
Wrath I have a 2015 unlimited sport. I think I'm going to go with the 1.5 max travel. Just looking for the right shocks. I've got a budget of around 1500.
Total or just for your shocks? For the money, I'm told Bilstein 5100 give you the most bang for your buck. I like my Fox 2.0s and am told they have a very similar feel to the Bilsteins, but corrosion is a concern for me so I spent the extra money on the aluminum shocks. Both are stiffer than stock, but very comfortable for me. The Rancho 9000s are supposed to be very nice. They're adjustable so you can get a different ride on and off the road. I've read reviews where the adjustment knob has corroded, but only you can know whether that is an issue for you. I have read that Old Man Emus are the softest ride you can get. That is the entirety of my knowledge of shocks, and do take note that I only have first-hand experience with the Fox 2.0 IFPs.
Yesterday 01:11 PM
c.shannon
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post

Not your fault RK needs to update their site still.
Wrath I have a 2015 unlimited sport. I think I'm going to go with the 1.5 max travel. Just looking for the right shocks. I've got a budget of around 1500.
Yesterday 12:49 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath0r View Post
I stand corrected.
Not your fault RK needs to update their site still.
Yesterday 12:24 PM
wrath0r I stand corrected.
Yesterday 12:23 PM
kjeeper10 All kits have triple rate coils. The 1.5" kits are new so their description is currant. The 2.5/3.5 kits need to be upgraded .... RK
Yesterday 12:15 PM
wrath0r
Quote:
Originally Posted by c.shannon View Post
The RK 1.5 will level it out too right?
Absolutely! I just put that kit on my 2 door and it leveled out really nicely. I also got about 2.5" of lift and am now shopping for an adjustable front track bar. Oops.



Quote:
Originally Posted by c.shannon View Post
Hey man. I've been shopping around more recently and I've been reading a lot too. I think I'm going to get a 2.5 inch kit. But would you happen to know what the best handling kit is? Like I said before, I'm going to be on the interstate with it 99% of the time. Thanks again
If we're talking about Rock Krawler kits, there's an important difference between the 1.5" kits and the 2.5" kits. The 1.5" kits have the new triple rate coils while the 2.5" kits have progressive rate coils. I have the RK 1.5" Expedition kit on my 2 door with Fox 2.0 IFP shocks (aluminum, because MA salts puts more salt on the roads than McDonalds does on french fries), and the Jeep is very tight and responsive. I feel more comfortable at speed than I did stock. However, handling is fairly subjective so don't take this as gospel.

If you have a 4 door, the Expedition kit is probably fine. If you have a 2 door and buy a 1.5" kit, make it the Max Travel kit. It has the adjustable front track bar that I wish I'd gotten, plus a few other goodies.

Oh, one other thing - the Rock Krawler bump stops are installed at the bottom of your coils, raising the point where the stock bump stops hit rather than just putting a longer bump stop in place. This requires drilling. Be prepared.
Yesterday 11:10 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by c.shannon View Post
I found the 2.5 for 50 dollars more than the 1.5 lol other than height, I don't see much of a difference between the two. What shock length? Thanks again for the help man.
What kit ? The RK coils will net a little more than advertised on a lighter jeep. More height requires more parts. Not good if on a budget and looking for a good ride.
I like RK but the AEV 2.5 as a kit w/ the drop brackets rides nice and complete for what it is.
I'd compare it to (for example) the max travel. Then you need shocks as well which will net closer to $2k
The AEV 2.5 cost around $1200 including shocks.
Yesterday 11:01 AM
Em52
Quote:
Originally Posted by c.shannon View Post
Hey man. I've been shopping around more recently and I've been reading a lot too. I think I'm going to get a 2.5 inch kit. But would you happen to know what the best handling kit is? Like I said before, I'm going to be on the interstate with it 99% of the time. Thanks again
Did you look at AEV, 2.5 Dual Sport with Geometry correction kit?

That's what I did for basically the same reason your mentioning, couldn't be more pleased! Their are many different systems and brands, even piece meal between different brands, options are almost endless. With all the guys on here and all the combinations that are installed out there, you're at the right place to find what your looking for. The search is half the fun!

Good luck.

Em ...
Yesterday 10:54 AM
c.shannon
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post

Absolutely
I found the 2.5 for 50 dollars more than the 1.5 lol other than height, I don't see much of a difference between the two. What shock length? Thanks again for the help man.
Yesterday 10:47 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by c.shannon View Post
The RK 1.5 will level it out too right?
Absolutely
Yesterday 10:33 AM
c.shannon
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post

Not at all. I posted the thread to help people.

"Brackets are better on the axle instead of body side, right?" Yes ... But referring to track bar brackets. The brackets I'm talking about drop the front control arms from the frame. Returning the angles back to stock and adjusting Caster. Any lift over 2.5" will benefit with correction brackets or adjustable CA's.

Bump stop "extensions" limit up travel. You need to extend the factory bump stops to protect the new longer coils from over compressing. More important... protect the longer shocks and keep the tires from rubbing the flares.
The RK 1.5 will level it out too right?
Yesterday 07:43 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by c.shannon View Post
I know this will sound dumb to you but I'm trying to learn more about this stuff. What exactly do the brackets and bump stops do? Brackets are better on the axle instead of body side, right?
Not at all. I posted the thread to help people.

"Brackets are better on the axle instead of body side, right?" Yes ... But referring to track bar brackets. The brackets I'm talking about drop the front control arms from the frame. Returning the angles back to stock and adjusting Caster. Any lift over 2.5" will benefit with correction brackets or adjustable CA's.

Bump stop "extensions" limit up travel. You need to extend the factory bump stops to protect the new longer coils from over compressing. More important... protect the longer shocks and keep the tires from rubbing the flares.
Yesterday 12:34 AM
c.shannon
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post

Ride is 100% subjective. To keep the jeep handling well, don't lift above what you need.
I'd stay at 2" with Rk 1.5's on your 4 door. Choose a nice shock, Rancho 9000's for example. Couple other minor things like sway bar links and bump stops... Maybe the brackets. The jeep should handle amazing.
I know this will sound dumb to you but I'm trying to learn more about this stuff. What exactly do the brackets and bump stops do? Brackets are better on the axle instead of body side, right?
Yesterday 12:25 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by c.shannon View Post
Hey man. I'vele been shopping around more recently and I've been reading a lot too. I think I'm going to get a 2.5 inch kit. But would you happen to know what the best handling kit is? Like I said before, I'm going to be on the interstate with it 99% of the time. Thanks again
Ride is 100% subjective. To keep the jeep handling well, don't lift above what you need.
I'd stay at 2" with Rk 1.5's on your 4 door. Choose a nice shock, Rancho 9000's for example. Couple other minor things like sway bar links and bump stops... Maybe the brackets. The jeep should handle amazing.
Yesterday 12:13 AM
c.shannon
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post

If your rig is primarily a daily driver, I'd say get the brackets 100%
Hey man. I've been shopping around more recently and I've been reading a lot too. I think I'm going to get a 2.5 inch kit. But would you happen to know what the best handling kit is? Like I said before, I'm going to be on the interstate with it 99% of the time. Thanks again
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