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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-23-2007 12:09 AM
affende
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moab Man View Post
I have that much lift for...

Rockcrawling
[IG]http://www.moabjeepers.com/george/goldencrack.jpg[/IMG]

Climbing
[IG]http://www.moabjeepers.com/george/Barney6x10.jpg[/IMG]

And playing dead
[IG]http://www.moabjeepers.com/george/barneydown5x7.jpg[/IMG]
i enjoy the rocks too, building my jeep for the rocks, cant stand the mud.

i enjoy trail riding on occasion, but for the most part, i want to beat the shit out of the TJ on some ledges / boulders / cracks / anything else

hence why i am keeping it low.

i have to say...with no lift, 33s, and 4.00 BS wheels, the tires tuck nicely between the fender and the fender flare ... although i wont lie ... my fenders look like they got hit by a truck :lol:
01-22-2007 11:49 PM
binaryking
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjeep View Post
your passenger looks scared!
She also looks hot!
01-22-2007 11:33 PM
upinar anybody disagree?
01-22-2007 11:33 PM
upinar the kit does come with the adjustable track bar, it comes with the relocation bracket. so im going to install that with the drop pitman arm
01-22-2007 11:12 PM
affende
Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple88a View Post
Time for tube fenders and a dragster hood scoop
i love the look of tube fenders, but they wont work for me as they wont give me the clearence i need. im going to raise the front fenders up `4" (even with the first line in the hood) and raise the rear wheel wells to the top of the rear tub. then on go the 35s and later (after i tire of breaking D35 and D30 shafts) ill swap in some 44s

hood scoop? not so much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple88a View Post
So whats the final to install as far as the pitarm with the kit goes?

Dropped pitarm yes or no
adjustable trackbar yes or no
Both yes or no?
both.

in a perfect world, you want your drag-link to be horizontal. in our world, close is close enough.

it also helps to have your drag-link and your panhard bar as parallel as possible.
01-22-2007 11:10 PM
affende
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjeep View Post
i ran 32's with no lift. i'm much happier with the lift now. makes it look a lot better. i'm already looking to get a bit more with a 1" BL and i'll do a MML with it.
i have always been a fan of big tires with the truck slammed as low as possible.
01-22-2007 10:33 PM
upinar
..

im running 35"s with stock suspension for now, until i put my lift in
01-22-2007 10:10 PM
Moab Man Yeah... yeah that sounds about right.
01-22-2007 10:07 PM
Texapple no, she's saying: "Wheeeeeeeeeee"
ok, maybe not
01-22-2007 10:07 PM
Moab Man
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjeep View Post
your passenger looks scared!
Her first Jeep experience.
01-22-2007 10:05 PM
mrbigjeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moab Man View Post
I have that much lift for...

Rockcrawling


Climbing




And playing dead
your passenger looks scared!
01-22-2007 10:01 PM
Moab Man
Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple88a View Post
Time for tube fenders and a dragster hood scoop

So whats the final to install as far as the pitarm with the kit goes?

Dropped pitarm yes or no
adjustable trackbar yes or no
Both yes or no?
Both
01-22-2007 10:00 PM
Moab Man
Quote:
Originally Posted by affende View Post
why so much lift for 35s? im on the stock suspension and running 33s

im hoping to make the jump to 35s before too long, after i cut up the hood and fenders
I have that much lift for...

Rockcrawling


Climbing




And playing dead
01-22-2007 09:53 PM
Triple88a
Quote:
Originally Posted by affende View Post
im hoping to make the jump to 35s before too long, after i cut up the hood and fenders
Time for tube fenders and a dragster hood scoop

So whats the final to install as far as the pitarm with the kit goes?

Dropped pitarm yes or no
adjustable trackbar yes or no
Both yes or no?
01-22-2007 09:49 PM
mrbigjeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by affende View Post
why so much lift for 35s? im on the stock suspension and running 33s

im hoping to make the jump to 35s before too long, after i cut up the hood and fenders
i ran 32's with no lift. i'm much happier with the lift now. makes it look a lot better. i'm already looking to get a bit more with a 1" BL and i'll do a MML with it.
01-22-2007 09:48 PM
affende
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moab Man View Post
I'm at a settled 5.5" of lift for 35's.
why so much lift for 35s? im on the stock suspension and running 33s

im hoping to make the jump to 35s before too long, after i cut up the hood and fenders
01-22-2007 09:47 PM
mrbigjeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moab Man View Post
Understand that. Was just curious. What brand of springs?
i'm wondering what brand springs also. i would be running 35's though if i had that much lift.
01-22-2007 09:46 PM
Moab Man
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjeep View Post
by the way sometimes a 4" lift will net 5" so just because he netted 5" doesn't mean he meant to have that much lift for his 33's.
Understand that. Was just curious. What brand of springs?
01-22-2007 09:34 PM
nicolas-eric
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjeep View Post
i would be running 35's with that but i do have to say that "mike001" (i think thats the name) is running the 4.5" superflex with 33's and he said he rubs in the rear ("barely") but rubbing is rubbing. yes i know it can be solved with bumpstops. by the way sometimes a 4" lift will net 5" so just because he netted 5" doesn't mean he meant to have that much lift for his 33's.
i have a 2" BB and a 2" BL with 32s. i have rubbing at the front at the back when disconnected.
01-22-2007 09:33 PM
mrbigjeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moab Man View Post
Why so much lift for 33's? I'm at a settled 5.5" of lift for 35's.

i would be running 35's with that but i do have to say that "mike001" (i think thats the name) is running the 4.5" superflex with 33's and he said he rubs in the rear ("barely") but rubbing is rubbing. yes i know it can be solved with bumpstops. by the way sometimes a 4" lift will net 5" so just because he netted 5" doesn't mean he meant to have that much lift for his 33's.
01-22-2007 09:20 PM
Moab Man I would not. It's really difficult on the steering box.

Depending on what kind of wheeling you do it can be too much stress on the tie-rod ends when flexed out. I know this from busting mine up.

Takes a bit of time to get adjusted to the vehicle again. Provided that your components are in good shape the vehicle is acting like it would stock but in stock form you didn't have all the additional weight and vehicle dynamics.

Just to take it a bit further their are so many other things that go along with this. Springs? Shocks? Wheel base?
01-22-2007 09:10 PM
upinar
...

so i put on the trac bar bracket and the drop pitman arm, and if its acting wierd, i put the stock pitman arm back on?
01-22-2007 09:08 PM
Moab Man
Quote:
Originally Posted by KicknJeep View Post
My lift netted me right at 5" of lift with an drop pitman arm and adj tracbar which I had bad wander, After reading several post I decided to put the stock pitman back on and it did align everything so as ALL wander is now gone. As stated trial and error.
No arguement that you can do that but it is so much easier on the steering box when it is set correct. As for the wander, assuming all your bushings are good, it will happen with all that lift and weight shifting around. The binding of the steering helps to hold it straight. While it can also cause bumpsteer. Comes down to whatever you're happy with.

Why so much lift for 33's? I'm at a settled 5.5" of lift for 35's.
01-22-2007 08:30 PM
KicknJeep My lift netted me right at 5" of lift with an drop pitman arm and adj tracbar which I had bad wander, After reading several post I decided to put the stock pitman back on and it did align everything so as ALL wander is now gone. As stated trial and error.
01-22-2007 07:57 PM
Moab Man
Quote:
Originally Posted by affende View Post
thank you. finally someone who understand how suspensions / steering works correctly
You're welcome. It's what I do. (signature line)
01-22-2007 07:41 PM
affende
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moab Man View Post
That is exactly opposite of what happens. It is easier to push the draglink when it is as straight as possible off of the pitman arm than to push when the draglink is on an angle. This is why many go with a high steer setup in conjunction with a large lift.

I must say the misinformation growing on this thread is incredible. There is more to understand than simply reading and regurgitating JP Magazine stuff. So one last time.

The trac bar locates the axle left to right. IT DOES NOT change the angle of your draglink any significant amount and does nothing to bring the draglink back to a close to horizontal position. This is the job of the DROP (as in to lower) pitman arm to correct for the increased angle as a result of the lift.

Now the bumpsteer comes in when you have a steep draglink and hit a bump. It drives the draglink up and over because of the angle as opposed to a up down movement when the draglink is close to horizontal.

thank you. finally someone who understand how suspensions / steering works correctly
01-22-2007 06:31 PM
Moab Man
Quote:
Originally Posted by AzTJ View Post
when you put on a drop pit arm, its like using a bigger wrench than what is required. There will be too much torque and force exerted on the steering gear box which may later ruin the gear box. Plus an adjustible trac bar is just so much more easy to install, and align.
That is exactly opposite of what happens. It is easier to push the draglink when it is as straight as possible off of the pitman arm than to push when the draglink is on an angle. This is why many go with a high steer setup in conjunction with a large lift.

I must say the misinformation growing on this thread is incredible. There is more to understand than simply reading and regurgitating JP Magazine stuff. So one last time.

The trac bar locates the axle left to right. IT DOES NOT change the angle of your draglink any significant amount and does nothing to bring the draglink back to a close to horizontal position. This is the job of the DROP (as in to lower) pitman arm to correct for the increased angle as a result of the lift.

Now the bumpsteer comes in when you have a steep draglink and hit a bump. It drives the draglink up and over because of the angle as opposed to a up down movement when the draglink is close to horizontal.
01-22-2007 04:59 PM
binaryking lol. If you weren't confused before, I bet you are now!

Just go with your gut, if it doesn't work the way you want it to, try another option. Read what you can, and soak it up, make a decision and try it out. You can always go back. Neither of these items are going to break the bank.

Sometimes trial and error is a good way to learn a few things for yourself. IMO
01-22-2007 04:23 PM
1BLKJP
Quote:
Originally Posted by mud707 View Post
O.k.,

Now I'm really . I've been running for a year now a 4 in. rough country lift that came with the drop pitman arm and a track bar relocation bracket wich I installed. Every couple of months I have to retighten the bracket cause it works loose a little( no matter how much I tighten it) and makes a knocking sound when I turn to the left. Since I do have the dropped pitman arm installed can I get rid of this bracket. If I buy a adjustable track arm like I was planning should I get rid of both bracket and the droped pitman arm or just the bracket?
Don't be confused as you have said the magic word when needing a drop pitman arm you just said it a little different. You ONLY need a drop pitman arm when you also using a trac-bar relocation bracket. It's not the trac-bar itself that corrects the steering geometry it's the relocation bracket that drops the frame end of the trac-bar down back to a more parrallel state with the drag link. This is why you do not need to utilize a DPA unless you have also dropped your trac-bar down.
01-22-2007 11:15 AM
Mike001 Your lift had a relocation bracket for the front track bar and a dropped pitman arm? I ain't ever seen relocation bracket for the front trackbar. If you get the adj. track bar then yes get rid of both of them.
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