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Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 10:21 PM
beefcake5000
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTPhoto JK View Post
I doubt that it matters much. I've had rear TF spacers in since 2008 (190,000 klm) and they have held up fine. If you wheel that hard that you are concerned about spacer quality you probably shouldn't be using spacers.
Thanks all for the feedback. Never used them before and wasn't sure.
Yesterday 10:03 PM
JTPhoto JK I doubt that it matters much. I've had rear TF spacers in since 2008 (190,000 klm) and they have held up fine. If you wheel that hard that you are concerned about spacer quality you probably shouldn't be using spacers.
Yesterday 08:07 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by jadmt View Post
x2 on quality. I found that synergy spacers are much nicer then Teraflex spacers. I think Daystar and Synergy are the same material.
I like the guide part of the TF spacers but have seen quality issues. These things looked beat .. No idea what the conditions were or how long they were installed.
Yesterday 07:48 PM
jadmt x2 on quality. I found that synergy spacers are much nicer then Teraflex spacers. I think Daystar and Synergy are the same material.
Yesterday 07:33 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by beefcake5000 View Post
Quick question, I hope. Is there any significant difference between brands of spacers. They don't do anything so I guess one is mostly concerned with longevity. I'm just as well off with daystar vs. synergy or teraflex spacers? Thanks again.
Yep, matter of fact. I know Daystar makes bushings/spacers for other manufactures.
Yesterday 07:31 PM
beefcake5000
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
I would add 1" spacers up front to get the height back.
Quick question, I hope. Is there any significant difference between brands of spacers. They don't do anything so I guess one is mostly concerned with longevity. I'm just as well off with daystar vs. synergy or teraflex spacers?

Thanks again.
Yesterday 04:29 PM
pazbich3
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post

The front coils are designed for weight. You will be a little taller up front without weight.
For the price, the rancho 2" kit is a perfect start with room to improve. (Longer front shocks, springs in the rear)
Figured I'd be a little nose high for a couple months before I buy my winch and bumper. Plans are for the Lod stubby and a zeon 10-s. Should bring it back to level.
Yesterday 03:46 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by pazbich3 View Post
I know I posed some questions here already, but for whatever reason, second guessing myself. About to pull the trigger on the Rancho 2" sport lift (w/ 9000 shocks), Jks quick disconnects and possible additional 3/4" front daystar spacers. I can get this all for under $700. Any other "complete" kit out there for the same price? And ease of installation? Kept thinking of the RK, AEV or Teraflex kit, but they seem to run more for a complete kit with shocks/Springs. Granted, the Rancho only comes with 2 Springs. Should I just pull the trigger on the Rancho kit? Thinking down the road if I want to go with a bigger more complete kit, I'll at least have the shocks.
The front coils are designed for weight. You will be a little taller up front without weight.
For the price, the rancho 2" kit is a perfect start with room to improve. (Longer front shocks, springs in the rear)
Yesterday 03:36 PM
pazbich3 I know I posed some questions here already, but for whatever reason, second guessing myself. About to pull the trigger on the Rancho 2" sport lift (w/ 9000 shocks), Jks quick disconnects and possible additional 3/4" front daystar spacers.

I can get this all for under $700. Any other "complete" kit out there for the same price? And ease of installation? Kept thinking of the RK, AEV or Teraflex kit, but they seem to run more for a complete kit with shocks/Springs. Granted, the Rancho only comes with 2 Springs.

Should I just pull the trigger on the Rancho kit? Thinking down the road if I want to go with a bigger more complete kit, I'll at least have the shocks.
Yesterday 03:34 PM
wrath0r I honestly wouldn't know how to rebuild or replace a ball joint, but having a shop rebuild rather than replace seems like it would be significantly less expensive.
Yesterday 03:02 PM
jadmt I think I will gamble on the Teraflex when the time comes. have 21000 miles on my stock ones and still tight but that can change quickly.
Yesterday 01:53 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedi9 View Post
It looks like the ball joints can be replaced by the owner with proper tools. When it's time for mine I'll be welding in some C gussets.
Yep .. A good press and common hand tools.
You can rent a press from any auto parts stores for free.
Yesterday 01:50 PM
Jedi9 It looks like the ball joints can be replaced by the owner with proper tools. When it's time for mine I'll be welding in some C gussets.
Yesterday 01:36 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath0r View Post
Thanks, I'll put some on my long term shopping list and buy them... eventually. I'd rather have them when I need them. What makes the Dynatracs so bullet proof that you never have to replace them again? Just that they can be rebuilt when bits and piece of them break or wear out?
Rebuildable without having to press in/out the body of the joint.
Yesterday 01:28 PM
Mammoth919 Id gladly install some TF ball joints for my JK. If they sent me some. Haha so I can review them for them. Haha
Yesterday 01:18 PM
wrath0r
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
SYNERGY being the most popular. Dynatrac prosteer's if you never want to replace again (fully rebuildable)
Other notable mentions
- Alloy
- Crown HD

I'd say TF but they're too new. Waiting for more reviews.
Thanks, I'll put some on my long term shopping list and buy them... eventually. I'd rather have them when I need them. What makes the Dynatracs so bullet proof that you never have to replace them again? Just that they can be rebuilt when bits and piece of them break or wear out?
Yesterday 01:05 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath0r View Post
Whose ball joints do you recommend wheen I eventually need to replace them?
SYNERGY being the most popular. Dynatrac prosteer's if you never want to replace again (fully rebuildable)
Other notable mentions
- Alloy
- Crown HD

I'd say TF but they're too new. Waiting for more reviews.
Yesterday 01:00 PM
wrath0r
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Yep and yep. Just Plan on replacing them.
The stock ball joints are just that bad.
Whose ball joints do you recommend wheen I eventually need to replace them?
Yesterday 12:55 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath0r View Post
True, but that doesn't happen too often with a 2" lift. Unless they take a bunch of stress from wheeling, which will happen. But what can I do about that except replace them when they go? I feel like that's the price of admission.
Yep and yep. Just Plan on replacing them.
The stock ball joints are just that bad.
Yesterday 12:36 PM
wrath0r
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
That was me being sarcastic . With that being said .. Ball joints are usually #1
True, but that doesn't happen too often with a 2" lift. Unless they take a bunch of stress from wheeling, which will happen. But what can I do about that except replace them when they go? I feel like that's the price of admission.
Yesterday 12:32 PM
kjeeper10 That was me being sarcastic . With that being said .. Ball joints are usually #1
Yesterday 12:25 PM
wrath0r
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedi9 View Post
Which bar did you get?
Rock Krawler. Since I wanted the track bar to center my axle after installing a Rock Krawler lift, it made sense to me.
Yesterday 11:58 AM
Jedi9
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath0r View Post
kjeeper: My adjustable front track bar finally came in. I think that's the last suspension component I'll be needing for a good while... until I break something. But with this mild of a lift I don't think I'm at too much risk of excessive wear and tear. It's the offroading that'll get me.
Which bar did you get?
Yesterday 11:48 AM
wrath0r
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
LOL ..yeaaaaa right
What do you think is going to wear and break because of the lift?
Yesterday 11:26 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath0r View Post
kjeeper: My adjustable front track bar finally came in. I think that's the last suspension component I'll be needing for a good while until I break something. But with this mild of a lift I don't think I'm at too much risk of excessive wear and tear. It's the offroading that'll get me.
LOL ..yeaaaaa right
Yesterday 11:24 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by goinpostol View Post
So, in your opinion, is the MC worth the extra dough? It's not insignificant. Even more so if I was to decide to just do the 2.5" AEV. I had figured that for $500 more, all things equal, I'd just do the 3.5" AEV, but now I'm thinking that a lower center of gravity would definitely be preferred for the street Your insight is appreciated.
Absolutely worth the extra money. Your logic is right on. 2.5 will allow better caster angle.
Yesterday 11:20 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by beefcake5000 View Post
Thanks kjeeper! The patience you've shown on this thread with folks like me is immense. Great idea about the spacers. I think I may do that. Trying to dust off my brain this morning. Need some caffeine. You said the Rancho collapsed length = 15.66 and rubi = 14.75 but Rancho is 2.5" longer. Just to be sure... you're including the bracket in that 2.5"?
Nope longer in extended length. Stock 22.75, Rancho 25.28

And no problem, any time
Yesterday 11:11 AM
goinpostol
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
The MC kit with OME or (new) Fox shocks is hard to beat but more involved.
The AEV 3.5 is pretty complete too but reuses a lot of stock parts including the drag link-flip (high steer)
Both kits are known to handle well. Honestly ... I think either would work for you.
So, in your opinion, is the MC worth the extra dough? It's not insignificant.
Even more so if I was to decide to just do the 2.5" AEV.
I had figured that for $500 more, all things equal, I'd just do the 3.5" AEV, but now I'm thinking that a lower center of gravity would definitely be preferred for the street.

Your insight is appreciated.
Yesterday 10:59 AM
wrath0r kjeeper: My adjustable front track bar finally came in. I think that's the last suspension component I'll be needing for a good while... until I break something. But with this mild of a lift I don't think I'm at too much risk of excessive wear and tear. It's the offroading that'll get me.
Yesterday 10:56 AM
beefcake5000
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post

I would add 1" spacers up front to get the height back. The 2" bump stop I'm assuming is needed running the parts you're going to run. The manufacturer assumes you have a small lift. You do, albeit its sagging.
The best way to do things is to cycle the suspension and see where The interferences are. Either the brackets you posted or longer shocks will add down travel. Both need bump stop depending on the shocks collapsed length or stack up (collapsed length plus the 2" brackets)
You'll get more total travel with a longer shock.
Let's use Rancho's front 29xl for example. The stock Rubi shock has a collapsed length of 14.75. The Rancho 29xl has a collapse length of 15.66. shock travel increases about 1.5 but the shock is almost 2.5" longer. You need the bump stop to protect the shock.
Like said, the best way is to get out the tape measure snd cycle the axles. Get the height back first imo.
Thanks kjeeper! The patience you've shown on this thread with folks like me is immense. Great idea about the spacers. I think I may do that.

Trying to dust off my brain this morning. Need some caffeine. You said the Rancho collapsed length = 15.66 and rubi = 14.75 but Rancho is 2.5" longer. Just to be sure... you're including the bracket in that 2.5"?
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