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Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 07:36 PM
kjeeper10 Currie w/ JJ's
Yesterday 07:30 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Time View Post
I am wanting to get this moving and appreciate your recommendation . I really want to get this right the first time.
Have you had a chance to look at driveshafts ?
James Adams (Adams driveshafts) is a great dude to work with. I own a front and have had no issues.
http://www.adamsdriveshaftoffroad.co...olid-u-joints/

If doing both uppers and lowers .. Almost any arm will work. Uppers only, I'm not too sure of the measurements.
I have a set of CURRIES here and they are set 1/2 longer then stock and can go to stock. I'm thinking 1/2 maybe 3/4" longer should work.
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=2896
Yesterday 05:34 PM
Time
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Let me know before you buy.. Will get you set up right
I am wanting to get this moving and appreciate your recommendation . I really want to get this right the first time.
Yesterday 02:05 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by cornfedksboy View Post
I think the confusion is that when they put the springs on the Jeep with the loaded front in, they actually DID get 2 and 3/4 in he's of lift, but the front end would have already been sagging 3/4" from stock. The net gain will be 2.5" from stock (give or take a quarter inch) on a stock 2 door. Add on steel bumper and and winch and you will loose 2/3 to 1" of lift and be right at 2" net.
I see what you're saying here .. Stock height seems to be different jeep to jeep.
I measured a good 7-8 jeeps using the method in those pics (2 and 4 door)
201/4 front and 211/4 rear is a pretty good estimate. Some of the jeeps had less of a rake and measured closer to 21 up front.

I was up over 4" With RK's first gen coils. The newer triple rates give more of a rake and not as high.
Yesterday 01:57 PM
cornfedksboy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fr8dawg View Post
really? Not what Ive heard... can't remember the user name, but a guy with a 2 door, full width steel rear bumper/tire carrier (with stock rubicon 17" wheel/tire mounted), mid width steel front bumper with winch, and rubicon rock guards got 2 3/4 up front and 1 7/8 on the rear. Im going to be putting these coils on my 2 door, so i will report back. Not saying you guys are wrong necessarily, its just what I have seen on the forums talking to several 2 door owners with the RK 1.5s. To summarize: FULLY outfitted 2 doors are getting over 2.5"! A stocker will be @3" no doubt. Anyway, go to page 4 in this thread and see for yourself (theres other 2 door examples throughout this thread as well): http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/ro...-450529-4.html
I think the confusion is that when they put the springs on the Jeep with the loaded front end, they actually DID get 2 and 3/4 or 3 inches of lift, but the front end would have already been sagging 3/4" from stock. The net gain will be 2.5" from stock (give or take a quarter inch) on a stock 2 door. Add on steel bumper and and winch and you will loose 2/3 to 1" of lift and be right at 2" net once the springs settle.
Yesterday 01:57 PM
kjeeper10 These coils don't sag much at all. I can set on my bumper and it drops maybe 1/4". I weigh just shy of 200 lbs.

I run the 2.5's. W/ only a 75 lbs front bumper. I'm at 3.5-4" up front and 3-3.5 out back.

Now take it to consideration where the person is measuring from. The flares are not a good spot to measure. Coil measurements before and after will get you the most accurate numbers. Wait a few days after install too... The coils will settle some.

I don't doubt 3" with 1.5's on a 2 door. Loaded up, a little less. RK coils take weight like a champ.
Yesterday 01:55 PM
Fr8dawg STOCK 2 door with RK 1.5 coils:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Joejack View Post
I measured from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the flare and got 24 1/4"! Seems like a lot of lift for an 1.5". I know it will settle some and my Jeep is pretty light right nor with stock bumpers and no winch.



Attachment 966818



Attachment 966826
Yesterday 01:40 PM
Fr8dawg
Quote:
Originally Posted by cornfedksboy View Post
Just to be clear, the RK 1.5" will net you 2.5" on a 2 door with no extra weight. With the weight you will be right at 2".
really? Not what Ive heard... can't remember the user name, but a guy with a 2 door, full width steel rear bumper/tire carrier (with stock rubicon 17" wheel/tire mounted), mid width steel front bumper with winch, and rubicon rock guards got 2 3/4 up front and 1 7/8 on the rear. Im going to be putting these coils on my 2 door, so i will report back. Not saying you guys are wrong necessarily, its just what I have seen on the forums talking to several 2 door owners with the RK 1.5s.

To summarize: FULLY outfitted 2 doors are getting over 2.5"! A stocker will be @3" no doubt.

Anyway, go to page 4 in this thread and see for yourself (theres other 2 door examples throughout this thread as well):

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/ro...-450529-4.html

Yesterday 01:37 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by cornfedksboy View Post
Just to be clear, the RK 1.5" will net you 2.5" on a 2 door with no extra weight. With the weight you will be right at 2".
Yep ..
Tech the RK coils are rated for a 4 door. You'll get similar results running TF's 4 door coils on a 2 door. Now I don't know TF's rating for each.
Yesterday 01:29 PM
cornfedksboy
Quote:
Originally Posted by RFC89747 View Post
2 door. So with a TF 1.5 performance leveling kit I will have slightly over a 2 inch lift and it will handle the extra weight of bumpers/winch well? If so that sound like the kit I should get.
Just to be clear, the RK 1.5" will net you 2.5" on a 2 door with no extra weight. With the weight you will be right at 2".
Yesterday 11:47 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by RFC89747 View Post
2 door. So with a TF 1.5 performance leveling kit I will have slightly over a 2 inch lift and it will handle the extra weight of bumpers/winch well? If so that sound like the kit I should get.
The RK coils will handle the weight better, but you'll be closer to 1.5 w/ TF.
Yesterday 11:19 AM
RFC89747 2 door. So with a TF 1.5 performance leveling kit I will have slightly over a 2 inch lift and it will handle the extra weight of bumpers/winch well? If so that sound like the kit I should get.
Yesterday 11:11 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by RFC89747 View Post
Well it sounds like I don't want that. From what I've been reading here I'm going to start needing extra mods once I cross that 2.5 inch mark. Would a TF 1.5" performance leveling kit, get me closer to a 2" lift or are they closer to their listed rating? Basically I want the simplest way to get as much lift as I can without needing more mods other than the lift.
2 door or 4 door ?

4 doors are averaging 2" and 2 doors slightly more. Neither over 2.5 where you have to worry.
Yesterday 11:08 AM
RFC89747
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fr8dawg View Post
The RK "1.5" coils will lift you much more than 1.5". I know, it's kinda confusing/misleading. They are rated 1.5" for a heavily armored (full metal bumpers, winch, heavy skid plates, etc). On a lightweight 2 door with stock bumpers, you'll be over 2.5" maybe 3", of lift up front with the RK 1.5 coils. This will require other parts to correct suspension geometry such as adjustable track bars, lower control arms, brake line extensions, longer swaybar links.
Well it sounds like I don't want that. From what I've been reading here I'm going to start needing extra mods once I cross that 2.5 inch mark. Would a TF 1.5" performance leveling kit, get me closer to a 2" lift or are they closer to their listed rating? Basically I want the simplest way to get as much lift as I can without needing more mods other than the lift.
Yesterday 11:06 AM
Rexenator
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
No .. They will not function properly.
Got it. I've seen others install different brands upside down. I'll just put them in how they are supposed to go
Yesterday 10:39 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rexenator View Post
Is there anyway to install Rancho 9000s upside down (ie with the tube on top)?
No .. They will not function properly.
Yesterday 10:38 AM
Rexenator Is there anyway to install Rancho 9000s upside down (ie with the tube on top)?
Yesterday 07:49 AM
kjeeper10 Yes it does .. Hey Mech_E your pics aren't showing ?
Yesterday 07:33 AM
Welder89 Snokat that looks good!
Yesterday 05:10 AM
snokat
Teraflex 2" Level

Went on yesterday in about two hours with a lift and a helper.
Left the front bushings in for a little extra.
Some clicking or rattling is going on as it all seats again, so I'll try and isolate that during some off-roading today.
Looks great even with the 32s.
07-12-2014 10:23 PM
Mech_E
Spacer leveling kit

I added a spacer leveling lift to the JKU RubiconX that has a Warn 10s winch. The quick summary is that I am about 1.75" taller in the front and 0.5" taller in the rear than a nominal/stock JKU. The Jeep sits approximately level and the ride is perfect! The on-road manners are wonderful. A picture is provided showing the results. Additional details are provided below on the leveling kit for those interested.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/attachm...6&d=1405219853
Fig 1. A picture of the leveled Jeep

The JKU RubiconX comes with 0.5” of lift (front and rear). I added a Warn 10s winch, which caused the front suspension to sag slightly more than 0.5” so a spacer lift kit was in order. I purchased the Synergy spacer kit ($100) from Quadratec to correct the sag and to add a small lift. The front spacers are 1.75” tall and the rear spacers are 7/8” tall. The rear spacers were advertised as 0.75”, but mine measured about 7/8” thick – perhaps they sent the wrong rear spacers. Because of this, I did not use the rear spacers since the 7/8” rear spacers would create too much rake (i.e. the front sits low relative to the rear). I hope that Qaudratec will exchange the rear spacers for 0.5”, which will add 0.5” of rake. A little rake is helpful in some situations (e.g. loaded down with camping gear).

The JK has a total of about 8.25” of vertical front wheel travel - the distance between the strike pad and the top of bumpstop. An image is provided illustrating this distance.

Attachment 1296242
Fig 2. An image of the front suspension vertical wheel travel (8.25")

After the front spacers were installed, there was about 5.25” of vertical up-travel of the suspension, which means there will be 3” of down-travel (8.25”-5.25”=3”). A picture is provided illustrating the vertical up-travel at ride height. I like up-travel for absorbing bumps so I find these values favorable.

Attachment 1296258
Fig 3. Picture of the final front suspension up-travel at ride height (5.25")

Prior to the spacers and the winch, the RubiconX had 4” of vertical up-travel; in other words, the front has 1.25” of lift (5.25”-4” = 1.25”) over the original RubiconX. I am about 1.75” taller than a nominal/stock JKU because the of 0.5" lift springs. The breakdown is 1.75” spacer + 0.5” RubiconX springs – 0.5” Warn 10s winch = 1.75” of lift in the front.

Next, the front swaybar was originally close to level, but it is now about 1.5” to 1.75” lower than level. I attached a photo of the swaybar measurement.

Attachment 1296314
Fig 4. Picture of swaybar angle at ride height

Based on trigonometry, the front sway bar will be angled downward about -7.4 degrees with 1.5” of vertical drop or -8.7 degrees with 1.75” of vertical drop. Many people recommend keeping the swaybar +/- 5 degrees with respect to level, which means that I should add 0.5” to 0.75” of length to the front swaybar links. The front swaybar links are currently 5.25” long and I was unable to find a swaybar link that was around 6” long and compatible with the electronic swaybar disconnect. As a result, I plan to live with -7.4 to -8.7 degrees unless I experience an issue. The Jeep drives great and there are no warning lights. If someone knows of issues with this swaybar angle range and a small spacer lift, then please send me a note. I did verify that the swaybar will not invert at full droop with the stock swaybar links. Please see the picture above showing the front suspension at full droop.

Next, I have not added any spacers to the rear suspension yet. The vertical up-travel at ride height remains unchanged at 5.5”. A picture is provided illustrating the rear up-travel on the RubiconX. I will measure the total, vertical rear suspension travel if I can exchange the 7/8” spacers for 0.5” spacers.

Attachment 1296378
Fig 5. Image of rear suspension up-travel at ride height

In closing, I hope the information in this post is helpful. Best wishes…
07-12-2014 10:01 PM
Time I'm going to get this worked in to my schedule this week ( it's not a DD) and hopefully get parts ordered if the local off-road guys can get on board.
07-12-2014 09:33 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Time View Post
Wow, thanks for your insight . I really appreciate your hospitality and looks like we will be getting new DS, CV and Control arms this week . I'm new to the Jeep world and I want do what's best and don't like spending "stupid money" on "upgrades " and wished I was better informed on my build in the early stage. Thank friend
Let me know before you buy.. Will get you set up right
07-12-2014 09:15 PM
Time Wow, thanks for your insight . I really appreciate your hospitality and looks like we will be getting new DS, CV and Control arms this week .
I'm new to the Jeep world and I want do what's best and don't like spending "stupid money" on "upgrades " and wished I was better informed on my build in the early stage. Thank friend
07-12-2014 08:47 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Time View Post
Do you have Carden DS you would recommend and do you think I should do the same on the front?
There's many good brands. Adams, Tom woods, Coast. Different styles ie new yokes, factory mounts, etc,
Adams was the cheapest for awhile until manufacturing cost went up and they switched to solid u-joints.
I run a front Adams and it's treated me well.
I actually have a spare stock sitting here if it goes. I found it for $75. No issues yet with no pinion angle correction. I also have upper Currie arms for when/if it does. I'm ready

My advice to most people... . Run the stockers until they die. You will not have to worry about the front because it's not under load in 2wd. Plus if it goes .. You can remove it and drive no problems.

Get the rear fixed up. Like I said, you will need to run (at min) a set of upper control arms. A friend runs TF uppers w/ her AEV 3.5" lift. Just enough to tilt the pinion up lessoning the angle of the DS.
07-12-2014 08:36 PM
Time
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Probably not, you can try but risk the dealer flagging your jeep. Do not drive it like that. 2 door I assume ? 3.5" is a good amount of lift on a 2 door. Best bet and if lucky .. You can find a takeoff in the classifieds/eBay/CL. Swap it out, then think about adjusting for more pinion angle. Other options * Aftermarket double carden DS. You will need adjustable control arms with a double carden shaft. * Crown (I believe) now makes rebuild kits for the stock Rzeppa (CV) joints. There's a couple excellent writeups on the forums. Where are you located ?
Do you have Carden DS you would recommend and do you think I should do the same on the front?
07-12-2014 08:20 PM
Time I live in Murfreesboro Tn
07-12-2014 08:00 PM
kjeeper10 Here is the joint
http://m.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/...ZswBoCRJ3w_wcB
07-12-2014 07:51 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Time View Post
I've got a 2013 jk sport with a 3.5 "Rough Country with 8000 miles ,just got home From 150 mile trip and decide to run an errand and now the rear drive shaft has grease "splatter " up near the transmission and want to lurch and not drivable . Do you think factory warranty will cover ?
Probably not, you can try but risk the dealer flagging your jeep.
Do not drive it like that.
2 door I assume ? 3.5" is a good amount of lift on a 2 door. Best bet and if lucky .. You can find a takeoff in the classifieds/eBay/CL. Swap it out, then think about adjusting for more pinion angle.

Other options
* Aftermarket double carden DS. You will need adjustable control arms with a double carden shaft.
* Crown (I believe) now makes rebuild kits for the stock Rzeppa (CV) joints. There's a couple excellent writeups on the forums.

Where are you located ?
07-12-2014 06:58 PM
Time I've got a 2013 jk sport with a 3.5 "Rough Country with 8000 miles ,just got home From 150 mile trip and decide to run an errand and now the rear drive shaft has grease "splatter " up near the transmission and want to lurch and not drivable . Do you think factory warranty will cover ?
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