|10-03-2013 11:52 AM|
|Gonza||Hey Patrick, I live in the Village so we are pretty close to each other. To be honest, I'm not planning in doing any more upgrades to the audio system. At least for now. That said, I like the idea of the back up camera. Please let me know how it goes and what you end installing. I've heard it is not hard but I don't know which camera and where to place it. Take care, Gonza|
|10-03-2013 10:58 AM|
|WranglerLTC||Anyone here try the Alpine KTP-445U power pack as an amp? I was using a KTP-445 in my prior vehicle on an alpine HU, but want to keep my stock head unit in place. Thinking about trying to sell the 445 and pick up a 445U (I want the amp to be mounted behind the dash).|
|10-03-2013 10:51 AM|
I just noticed you are in NYC as well. I am in North Battery Park.
I am going to give the speaker swap out a try. I'll have to take the dash apart anyway because I am going to installing the Lockpick CHR550, 2 headrest DVD/monitors and a backup camera (still figuring out which one I should get). Now I just have to find a place where I can do this (I am pretty sure that where I park my JKU they won't be to thrilled if I start breaking out the tools ...)
|10-02-2013 11:26 PM|
Hi Patrick, I'm glad the write-up helped. For what I've checked, the 77Kick10 are coaxial. All I can tell you is that for $65 a pair and not more that 2 hours of work it is absolutely worth it. I first changed the two speakers in the sound bar (which took me 30 minutes) and even though it improved the overall sound, it was not enough for my taste. In fact, there was a huge difference when fading to the back compared to fading to the front. That's why I decided to do the dash ones too. I know many people say that it is a PITA but I'd suggest to do the passenger first so you have a better idea of how the whole thing is connected. Then the driver side is less complicated. Good luck, Gonza.
PS: the dash and sound bar speakers are exactly the same and the 77Kick10 fit perfectly in both. All you need to do is to unscrew the old ones and screw the news ones.
|09-30-2013 04:11 PM|
Thanks for your write-up.
I was considering doing just a speaker upgrade (instead a full downstream upgrade) but was not sure it would make enough of a difference. However, I have read a number of installs saying that just the speakers alone make a big difference already. And at $65 a pair it is worth a try.
One question: the stock speaker in the dash, is it a coaxial speaker?
|09-29-2013 12:38 AM|
Hey guys, I know there are a million threads about upgrading the speakers but I didn't find any specific one about the JKU 2013 Rubicon 10 Anniversary. I just replaced the 4 of them with the 77Kick10 and the sound has improved A LOT. It's not the best sound system ever due to the lack of power of the amp but now I can hear cymbals, hi-hats and bass drums (sorry, I'm a drummer) which I couldn't hear before because the sound was basically flat regardless of the EQ adjustments (which doesn't give you many options either).
Anyway, even though everybody says that the driver side is a PITA, it took me longer to do the passenger side because the screw below the gloves compartment was tight as hell. The way to do the passenger side in the 10A is as you can find in other threads (remove glove compartment, remove side panel with a flat knife or flat screwdriver, take out two 7mm screws in the bottom of the dash, remove a third screw (also 7mm) right on top of the door strap and then remove two gold screws on the right of the speaker box (that's why you previously removed the side panel). The third screw that hold the speaker box is below the dash (it's a 10mm) and that's the one that was extremely tight and took me almost an hour to take out (by the way, I don't know if I'm a bit stupid but because you are upside down in order to unscrew it you have to use the screwdriver the opposite way. I'm just saying because after 30 minutes I've realized I was tighten the screw instead of losing it).
The driver side is similar to what other threads say but in the 10A after removing the panel below the steering wheel there's a plate that has only 2 silver screws (10mm) not 4 as other threads say. You need to remove that plate in order to unplug the speaker box. Once you removed the panel and also the side panel (similar to the passenger side) you have to remove two 7mm in the bottom of the dash, a third screw right on top of the door strap and I would recommend removing another 7mm screw which is on the left of the steering wheel. Removing that screw makes it easier to bend the dashboard later to remove the speaker box. As in the passenger side, there are two gold screws where you previously removed the side panel and a third one below the dash. It's hard to see the screw but you can easily remove it following the dash with your hands. Keep in mind this one is a 10mm. Once you removed all the screws just bend the dashboard towards the driver seat until the speaker box comes out. It was very easy for me to do it. I think it was because I removed that 4th screw on the left of the steering wheel.
I'm sorry, I'm not explaining the ones in the sound bar because it is just a matter of unscrewing the 3 screws and replacing the speaker.
I hope this helps and feel free to ask any questions. I highly recommend replacing the 4 speakers. It is. To as dramatic as it seems and the sound is much better. You won't regret it!
The two cents of a newbie.
|09-27-2013 12:47 PM|
|09-25-2013 01:37 PM|
|Patrick001||Ahsumtoy, I have the stock sub, should I replace anything there?|
|09-25-2013 01:26 PM|
Thanks so far, guys!
I see I have a few hours ahead of me to spend on the interweb and figure out what to get.
Also thanks for the Crutchfield / Sonic Elec'x tip.
|09-25-2013 12:29 PM|
4 ohms are okay either way. You'll have to turn the volume knob up a little more if running the stock amp, but not any big deal.
FWIW, I use cruthfield to research specs, view instructions, and get part numbers for all the little harnesses and whatnot, but do most of my shopping through Sonic Electronix. Good outfit with fast shipping and great customer service.
|09-25-2013 10:34 AM|
Keep your HU, get 4 ohm good speakers for dash, sound bar, and tweeters, put in a sub (JL's are good) and a good 5 chan amp. Don't forget the PAC and LOC and you are set to go.
|09-25-2013 08:42 AM|
|Patrick001||Should I stay with 2 ohm's? Or if I change the amp I could go with 4 ohm's I am guessing, right? That would increase the choice. (shows you how much I know about this stuff at the moment!)|
|09-24-2013 11:48 PM|
The Polk's are popular, as is alpine, kicker, infinity, etc. I personally don't need $800 speakers, but the sky's the limit. I would stay away from any brand they sell at Walmart per se. Get component set for front and coaxials for the sound bar.
Go for a 5 channel digital amp. They're nice and small nowadays and run cool. I'm scoping out the Alpine PDX9 myself.
Depends on what you're looking for I guess. Go to a big audio place and listen to some speakers to see what you like. Good luck!
|09-24-2013 11:38 PM|
Thanks County and Woans,
I guess for the time being (got the JKU in March and paid too much for the 730N anyway) I will keep the 730N.
Assuming I keep the 730N and go for an amp and speaker upgrade and lets just say I do not need to blast my windows out or rip the soft top, and knowing that it is a Jeep with questionable acoustics at best so I am not looking for miracles, what would you suggest in terms of speakers and amp?
|09-24-2013 11:26 PM|
- Run a line output converter from the factory amp to an after market amp, and replace the speakers. Pros: no having to take any stock stuff out other than the factory speakers. Cons: sound is likely to be compromised by amplifying, processing and re-amplifying.
- Replace the 730N with an after market unit. Pros: vastly superior sound quality and feature set. Cons: expensive, loss of stock look (not an issue if you do it right).
- Ask the dealer to re-flash / re-program your 730N to be a non-premium unit, that way you can take the speaker level outputs and connect them directly to an after market amp with SLIs or go via LOC. Pros: nice clean install, keep the 730N. Cons: technically still amp/re-process/amp, also I don't actually know if the dealer can or will do it.
|09-24-2013 11:24 PM|
I did a little speaker change writeup in the signature link you can check out if you want. The "premium" speakers actually aren't awful, they're poly cones with a decent magnet. I changed them anyway and will be adding an amp eventually (no rush), but keeping my factory head unit. If you change amps, you will just need a summing/ line out converter such as the audio control LC7.
There are a lot of good write ups around on this stuff, and Woans is a good source of advice as well.
Like Woan's said, don't go nuts on the speakers unless you have a long term plan. I went with decent speakers (still didnt go nuts) to upgrade my stuff, but doing it in stages and didn't want to re-buy stuff later.
|09-24-2013 11:06 PM|
Thanks for your quick reply Woansleftpeg.
You come up quite often when you do a search for speakers and JK's.
1) They are probably capable of handling the amp's power but can you improve on the sound quality (Although "better sound" is somewhat depending on who is listening)?
2) The reason I was asking about the coaxial in the dash is because I have a sound problem with the NAV. The voice prompt is directed to the driver's side but I have a feeling it does not go to the tweeter thus making it sound like it is under water. I have upgraded the firmware and done all kinds of testing and changed all kinds of settings but nothing helps and it has led me to this conclusion. The sound is fine from the radio, sat and CD's.
3) When you say replace the amp, does that mean I can keep the 730N and do something on the back of it, or do I have to replace the whole thing?
|09-24-2013 10:43 PM|
|09-24-2013 10:24 PM|
JKU 2013 audio speakers
I am in the process of figuring out what to replace the stock speakers of my JKU 2013 730N Alpine premium sound system with.
- My first question is: what are the stock speakers? Alpine? I know they are 2 ohm, 6.5 inch, but that is all I can find about it.
- My second question is: would it make sense to replace the dash speakers by coaxial speakers (even though there is a tweeter on the dash)?
- My third question is: what is a good 2 ohm 6.5 / 6.75 inch replacement speaker for both dash and sound bar? Lets say money is not so much an object, although I probably would not go for the $800 pair of Focals!
Thanks for all your help!